Theory And Practice, Applied To The Cultivation Of The Cucumber In The Winter Season Part 3

The annexed diagram represents one of the many ways in which this idea might be carried into practice. It will be understood that, as here shown, the side shutters and end shutters (the latter not indicated), fit into grooves, the upper groove being attached to iron pins, and thus fixed at a proper distance from the building, without obstructing the pa.s.sage of air along the enclosed s.p.a.ce; and that on the lower side being so fixed as to exclude the external air in that direction. The top or roof shutters also run into a groove along the ridge of the roof, and at the lower end fix close down to the top of the side shutters, fastening with a b.u.t.ton. Each of the shutters should have a projecting fillet fixed on one side, so as to shut close over the adjoining one. The shutters themselves should of course be made of light frame-work, strengthened where necessary, with small iron rods. The material used for covering them may be the asphalte felt, now manufactured extensively for roofing purposes, or strong brown paper, coated with tar; the latter is used extensively in Germany for this purpose, and is found to be very durable and cheap; it is there even preferred to every other material.

Though the covering of hot-houses has been already practised in some cases, I am not aware of any one having adopted a close covering with the view to facilitate ventilation or aeration during the night. It appears to me that the circulation of air, secured by the means here proposed, would have much influence in excluding cold, whilst at the same time it would prevent the interior from becoming too warm and close.

_On Transplanting and the use of Turf Pots._

I have, at p. 26, given what appear to me to be some of the princ.i.p.al reasons against the practice of transplanting, or planting out, Cuc.u.mber and other plants. When this is done after any quant.i.ty of roots are produced, some injury or check must be sustained during the process; and checks of this kind are opposed to the realisation of the greatest results within the shortest period, which of course is the great object in view.

Where it is inconvenient to plant the seeds in the places the plants are intended to occupy, or to put out the young plants during the earliest period of their development, or where propagation by cuttings or layers, is adopted, and the plants of course have to be potted separately, so as to be in a removable state, the following simple plan may be adopted, and will be found to combine all the advantages and conveniences attending the use of pots, with the avoidance of the evils of transplantation, &c. The plan referred to, consists in the employment of turf or peat, so contrived as to supply the place of pots, and which of course at the time of planting is simply placed, along with the plant it contains, at once into the soil, without in the least disturbing the roots, which, growing through the substance of the turf, extend beyond it in all directions into the free soil provided for them. These turf pots are made of spongy, fibrous turf--whether loamy or peaty is not material, provided it is full of fibre, so as to admit of being readily traversed by the roots. The gra.s.sy surface is evenly removed, and the under-turves are cut three or four inches in thickness, and are then divided into squares of about three inches across. The centre of each of these little squares is taken out by means of an iron scoop, such as that represented in the annexed sketch; and this is then filled up with soil, and the plant, or seed, or cutting, or layer, inserted as if it were into an ordinary flower pot. It will be obvious that by this plan, every plant is independent and perfectly removable--thus securing the convenience of sowing or planting and rearing the plants in pots during their earliest stages: on the other hand, at the time of planting out permanently, the plant, turf, and all being set carefully into the soil, no check is sustained, because the roots remain undisturbed, and may, as they advance, penetrate through the turf into the prepared soil which surrounds them; in this way the advantages of sowing or planting at the very first in the position the plants are intended to occupy permanently, are secured.

[Ill.u.s.tration]

This plan of sowing seeds, or of planting young plants intended for transplantation, into pots made of turf, is not only applicable to cuc.u.mbers, but might be very extensively adopted in the case of annuals and half hardy plants raised in frames, during the spring, in large quant.i.ties for the flower garden. In these cases, however, as the quant.i.ty that could be reared within a given s.p.a.ce would be an object, the turves should be as small as possible in their lateral dimensions--a bore of two inches and a half, with half an inch on each side, thus making the diameter three inches and a half, would be found convenient in this respect. For cuc.u.mbers, however, or when the plan was applied to any special object, a larger size might be employed, which would allow of the plants attaining a larger size before it would be necessary to place them in their permanent positions.

_On Watering the Soil._

In the diagram at p. 18, and the description of it at p. 20, I have indicated and recommended a plan of moistening the soil by pouring water down beneath the soil: this was to be done by the help of tubes provided for the purpose. The soil was supposed to rest on the top of the hot water-tank, which was to supply bottom heat; and immediately beneath the soil, a layer of open rubble was proposed to be placed, among which the water applied might find its way, and gradually moisten the superinc.u.mbent soil. Mr. Hunter, gardener at Mawley Hall, in detailing[3] his sixteen years' experience in tank-heating, has in great measure corroborated these views; and as his corroboration of the plan I have recommended, embodies some useful hints, I will quote the substance of his remarks:--"I had a pit erected, thirty-eight feet long, seven and a half wide, divided into four compartments, for growing melons and cuc.u.mbers, with a tank extending the whole length of the pit, six feet wide and six inches deep.

Across this I put larch spars, and upon them turves, with the gra.s.sy side downwards, and on them the soil for the melons and cuc.u.mbers. The plants grew and did well for a time, but they were of short duration in comparison with the dung-bed. Instead of the moisture ascending through the soil as I expected, I found that the heat from the tank dried the turves and soil next to them as dry as dust, and that there was no such thing as obtaining a moist heat from hot water without the soil was in contact with it. Next year I put broken stones upon the spars, and turves upon them, and made my arrangements so that I could occasionally run water in the tank to wet the turves and the soil next them. This was an improvement; and I went on prosperously for some years, till the spars began to decay. I then had iron bars put across, and two of the compartments covered with squares, a foot in diameter, and one inch thick; the other two with slates; both slates and squares jointed with Roman cement, to prevent the soil from getting into the tank, as I had found the inconvenience of it when using the spars. I put some broken stones upon the covers, and turves upon them, and then the soil. Here my original difficulty occurred; the soil next the covers got too dry, and to moisten it from above was impracticable, without making the soil a complete puddle, which would have stopped the healthy growth of the plants. To remedy this, I put six small earthen pipes into each division, the one end resting upon the tank covers, the other standing up above the soil. When I found by the watch sticks that the soil was getting dry, I poured water down the pipes through a tin funnel which I had made on purpose; this spread itself over the surface of the tank covers, and diffused a gentle moisture to the soil, so congenial to the growth of plants. This was a move in the right direction. I then thought that it would be better to pour the manure water down upon the tank covers, which I have done since.

I found the broken stones over the tank covers troublesome; they were also a harbour for wood-lice. I now use only a layer of leaves next the covers, and they are cleared out with the soil."

_On Atmospheric Humidity._

Cuc.u.mbers cannot at any time be successfully grown in an arid atmosphere, although, during the winter season, they require a much less proportion of atmospheric humidity, than under the influence of longer days and brighter light; and conversely, the degree which would be necessary to secure their welfare in summer, would be fatal to them in winter. An experienced gardener would tell almost instinctively, at either season, whether a sufficient supply was present or not; but less experienced cultivators would need some index, or register, to guide them. Such an index is afforded by the hygrometer; but most of the kinds of hygrometers are delicate instruments, and hardly suited for garden use. What is needed in this case is, not an instrument which requires minute observations and calculations, but something that will at once indicate the atmospheric humidity as plainly as the thermometer does the temperature, and which may be as easily read off and understood. Simmons' hygrometer, recently introduced to the notice of horticulturists, professes to supply this desideratum; and though, perhaps, not a sufficiently accurate instrument for purely scientific purposes, yet, as simply and clearly indicating what is at least an approximation to the existing degree of atmospheric humidity, it is to be regarded as a useful garden hygrometer. By it, the degree of dryness or humidity is indicated on a dial-plate, by means of a moveable arm resembling the hand of a clock. The dial-plate is marked off into degrees, expressing the amount of moisture in the air, between what is observed when the instrument is plunged in water on the one hand, and exposed to excessive dryness on the other. As my own experience of this instrument, though favourable to its use, is still but limited, I cannot do better than introduce here the following remarks of Mr. Beck, of Isleworth, a very successful cultivator of plants, and one who has had considerable experience in the use of these instruments. It will be observed that Mr. Beck's standard for the orchid-house will be about suitable for cuc.u.mbers.[4] Mr. Beck observes,--"The skilful gardener, observing the pointer to advance with dryness and return with moisture, will soon form a standard for himself, by which to regulate his stove, greenhouse, &c.; still some general scale is desirable. Two conditions must be carefully observed:--1. The instrument must neither be hung in the sun, nor where it will be liable to get wetted or saturated. 2. It must not be subjected to greater heat than is suited to vegetable life. For the six months commencing with August and ending with January, 40 deg. in, the morning, increasing to 60 deg. about noon, and declining again to 40 deg. at night, is about the right scale for the orchid-house; whilst a range from 50 deg. to 80 deg. would be suitable for both the stove and greenhouse in those months. In the other half year, February and July inclusive, 30 deg. to 40 deg., morning and evening, running up to 80 deg.

in the middle of the day for the orchid-house; 40 deg. and 50 deg., and up to 70 deg. for the stove; and 50 deg. to 80 deg. for the greenhouse, will prove very suitable. The above scale is desirable, but I do not say it is always attainable. Ours is an uncertain climate; sometimes a dry east wind will almost parch us up; at other times a southerly one, with wet, will cause a superabundance, which will have to be corrected, possibly by a gentle fire, and a free admission of air. The alteration hereby effected in the atmosphere of the houses will soon be evidenced by the hygrometer, and mildew and fogging off be kept at a distance. Opposed to an excess of moisture in the dull months of the year, is the dryness consequent on the summer and autumnal suns.h.i.+ne. Then, during the heat of the days, the instrument will seem to have run wild. Throwing water on the floors of the houses, and every means of increasing the amount of moisture, seems but of little or temporary avail; Simmons will go up, spite of all, to 90 deg. or 100 deg., and none the worse either, for it is still a faithful indicator, and as sure as the day declines, and the heat of the sun is withdrawn, so will it come back to a suitable point, when the plants are watered and the floors are wetted for the night. Remembering then, the variableness of our climate, I candidly admit that I consider any precise directions of very little value. None can be given that shall be implicitly followed, or on which success shall certainly attend. Horticultural practice should be made dependant upon ever-varying circ.u.mstances."

Mr. Belville, of the Royal Observatory, has constructed the following Table, from a series of observations made with Simmons' hygrometer in connexion with the dew point, as obtained by a Mason's hygrometer, or a dry and wet thermometer.

+------------------------------------------------------------------+ Range Mean of Simmons' Humidity of Hygrometer. the Air. +-------------------------- 20 to 30 100 Extreme saturation; air precipitates moisture at a fall of temperature. 30 .. 40 096 40 .. 50 089 50 .. 60 081 60 .. 70 077 } 70 .. 80 072 }Ordinary fine dry weather. 80 .. 90 067 } 90 .. 100 059 100 .. 120 050 Air contains one half of the moisture it is capable of holding in solution; in England very dry weather. +--------------------------+---------------------------------------+

Example:--Suppose hygrometer read 45, the mean humidity corresponding is 93. Again, if hygrometer read 90, the mean humidity corresponding is 59.

_Mushrooms._ (See p. 22.)

Convenience for growing mushrooms may always be planned in a cuc.u.mber house; and as these excellent fungi are universally approved, it may be useful to append an epitome of the mode in which they should be cultivated.

The best, or, at least, most convenient situation for the bed, would be beneath that provided for the cuc.u.mber plants (see p. 18). The front may be formed of two course of brick-on-edge, and if divisions are required, they should be formed in the same way. The bottom should be made even, and rendered dry. The material for forming the bed itself consists of short stable litter, with horse-droppings, but chiefly the latter, brought to a certain state of fermentation. The droppings and litter should be obtained daily from the stable, until enough for a bed is collected; it should, from day to day, be thrown up into a flattish heap, in a dry place, where it will ferment very slightly. As soon as enough is got together to begin to ferment, the heap must be turned over; and in these turnings, the outer and inner parts of the heap, as well as the fresh and the fermenting, must be well mixed up together; the heaps should be turned every second day, and should never be made large, or else the dung would become both too hot and too dry, either of which would spoil it. To avoid this, the heaps should be flat and shallow, with as much outside as possible; in this way the air, acting on a considerable portion of it, renders it rather dry, and checks too rapid fermentation. This preparation must be continued until the whole ma.s.s is brought to an uniform mild, dryish state of fermentation. Then the bed may be made in the following manner:--About three inches of the prepared dung is laid evenly over the bottom, and is beaten down firmly with a flat heavy wooden mallet. Another layer is then put on in the same way, and this is repeated until the bed is formed to a thickness of about six inches. The next two inches of the dung should have about a sixth part of light turfy loam reduced to mould, and sifted, mixed with it to give it body. The bed is now prepared, and is to be sp.a.w.ned as soon as it is seen that it does not heat violently. The heat ought not to exceed 90 degrees: if it reaches higher than this, holes must be made, a few inches apart, to let the heat pa.s.s off, and in a day or two these may be filled up again. The sp.a.w.n is to be put in when the heat ranges about 75 degrees; lumps of sp.a.w.n about as large as a small egg may be used; a hole should be made with the fingers about two inches deep, the sp.a.w.n inserted, and the material of the bed closed about it. Probably by this time there will be no danger of overheating, and if so, the soil may be put on; if, however, there is any inclination to overheat, wait till it has pa.s.sed off before putting on the soil. The soil used should be decomposed turfy loam, moderately dry, so as to bear compression without running together like paste, but damp enough to become firm, close, and even, when beaten closely. About two inches in thickness should be put on, and this is to be beaten down quite firm and close. The beds are then finished. It is as well to cover the surface with a thin layer of short hay, to prevent it becoming quite dry. Mushroom beds seldom require water; after they have been some time in bearing, the beds sometimes get dry, and in such cases, if they have a moderate soaking of _tepid_ water, and the surface is covered as before, a new crop will spring up. The covering is best removed when the beds are in bearing. It is seldom advisable to apply water when the beds are coming into bearing. Water should never be used in any other than a tepid state.

Mushrooms are most prized in the summer, though the atmosphere of a cuc.u.mber-house would not then be suitable for them, unless the s.p.a.ce about them could be closed in, so as to retain a close, somewhat humid atmosphere. They would succeed very well without being enclosed, during the season for forcing cuc.u.mbers.

Under the treatment which has been detailed, the beds would usually come into bearing in about six weeks from the time of sp.a.w.ning; and, under favourable circ.u.mstances, would continue in bearing for two or three months.

Footnotes:

[1] The Journal of the Horticultural Society of London, vol. I. p. 114.

[2] Ib. vol. II. p. 29.

[3] Gardener's Journal, 1847, p. 339.

[4] Gardener's Chronicle 1847.