In The Hands Of A Chef Part 20

3. Preheat the oven to 325F. Preheat the oven to 325F.

4. Sprinkle the pork all over with salt and rub with the lime juice. Place the b.u.t.t in a small baking pan (about 9 9 inches). There should only be 1 to 2 inches of s.p.a.ce between the pork and the sides of the pan. (A small pan will help prevent the water and acc.u.mulated pork juices from simply boiling away. You want the pork to braise, not dry-roast.) Add inch of water and the quartered lime to the pan. Cover with foil, crimping the edges over the sides of the pan to form a tight seal. Cook for 2 hours. Sprinkle the pork all over with salt and rub with the lime juice. Place the b.u.t.t in a small baking pan (about 9 9 inches). There should only be 1 to 2 inches of s.p.a.ce between the pork and the sides of the pan. (A small pan will help prevent the water and acc.u.mulated pork juices from simply boiling away. You want the pork to braise, not dry-roast.) Add inch of water and the quartered lime to the pan. Cover with foil, crimping the edges over the sides of the pan to form a tight seal. Cook for 2 hours.

5. Remove the pan from the oven. Carefully peel back the foil and flip the pork. Set aside 1 tablespoon of the extra spice rub, and sprinkle the remainder over the pork. Sprinkle with salt. Replace the foil, return the pork to the oven, and braise for 2 more hours, or until the meat is very tender and falls apart when prodded with a fork. Remove from the oven and increase the oven temperature to 450F. Remove the pan from the oven. Carefully peel back the foil and flip the pork. Set aside 1 tablespoon of the extra spice rub, and sprinkle the remainder over the pork. Sprinkle with salt. Replace the foil, return the pork to the oven, and braise for 2 more hours, or until the meat is very tender and falls apart when prodded with a fork. Remove from the oven and increase the oven temperature to 450F.

6. Remove the pork from the pan. Discard the limes. Pour the braising juices into a nonreactive container and skim off the fat. You should have about 1 cup braising juices; if you have less, make up the difference with chicken stock. Refrigerate the juices until needed. Remove the pork from the pan. Discard the limes. Pour the braising juices into a nonreactive container and skim off the fat. You should have about 1 cup braising juices; if you have less, make up the difference with chicken stock. Refrigerate the juices until needed.

7. Return the pork to the pan and roast, uncovered, until the exterior is a crispy brown, another 15 to 20 minutes. Let cool, then cut into 1-inch slices. Return the pork to the pan and roast, uncovered, until the exterior is a crispy brown, another 15 to 20 minutes. Let cool, then cut into 1-inch slices.

FOR THE BEANS.

8. Put the beans in a large pot, cover with cold water by 1 inch, and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat, cover, and allow to sit for 1 hour. Drain. Put the beans in a large pot, cover with cold water by 1 inch, and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat, cover, and allow to sit for 1 hour. Drain.

9. While the beans are soaking, toast the c.u.min and coriander seeds in a dry pan over low heat until they start to pop and are aromatic. Remove from the heat and set aside. While the beans are soaking, toast the c.u.min and coriander seeds in a dry pan over low heat until they start to pop and are aromatic. Remove from the heat and set aside.

10. Heat the vegetable oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until it begins to brown. Add the garlic and cook for 3 minutes. Add the beans, tomatoes, jalapenos, c.u.min and coriander seeds, and oregano. Add enough water to cover the beans by 2 inches. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to medium-low, and cook until the beans are tender, about 1 hours. Make sure the water level stays inch above the beans until the end of the cooking time nears. Stir regularly. Heat the vegetable oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until it begins to brown. Add the garlic and cook for 3 minutes. Add the beans, tomatoes, jalapenos, c.u.min and coriander seeds, and oregano. Add enough water to cover the beans by 2 inches. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to medium-low, and cook until the beans are tender, about 1 hours. Make sure the water level stays inch above the beans until the end of the cooking time nears. Stir regularly.

11. By the time the beans have finished cooking, the water should be almost all absorbed. Add the rum and cook for 10 minutes. Season with salt and allow the beans to cool in their cooking liquid. When cool, drain (there won't be much liquid), taste, and add more salt if necessary. Season with black pepper, then add the lime juice and cilantro. By the time the beans have finished cooking, the water should be almost all absorbed. Add the rum and cook for 10 minutes. Season with salt and allow the beans to cool in their cooking liquid. When cool, drain (there won't be much liquid), taste, and add more salt if necessary. Season with black pepper, then add the lime juice and cilantro.

FOR THE GREENS.

12. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Prepare a large bowl of ice water. Drop the greens into the boiling water. If using mustard greens, cook for 3 minutes; if using broccoli rabe, cook for 4 minutes. Drain, plunge the greens into the ice water to stop the cooking, and drain again. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Prepare a large bowl of ice water. Drop the greens into the boiling water. If using mustard greens, cook for 3 minutes; if using broccoli rabe, cook for 4 minutes. Drain, plunge the greens into the ice water to stop the cooking, and drain again.

13. Combine the oil and garlic in a small saute pan over medium heat and cook until the garlic becomes aromatic, about a minute. Add the greens and toss to coat with the garlic and oil. Season with salt and pepper. Remove from the heat. Combine the oil and garlic in a small saute pan over medium heat and cook until the garlic becomes aromatic, about a minute. Add the greens and toss to coat with the garlic and oil. Season with salt and pepper. Remove from the heat.

TO a.s.sEMBLE THE DISH.

14. Preheat the oven to 450F. Preheat the oven to 450F.

15. Spread the rice in the bottom of a 3-quart clay pot or ca.s.serole. Spoon the beans over the rice, then top with the greens. Make a final layer of the sliced pork. Pour to 1 cup of the reserved braising juices over everything. The object is to use enough liquid to moisten everything and provide a firmer-than-soupy consistency without everything literally swimming in braising juices. Sprinkle the pork with salt and the reserved tablespoon of spice rub. Spread the rice in the bottom of a 3-quart clay pot or ca.s.serole. Spoon the beans over the rice, then top with the greens. Make a final layer of the sliced pork. Pour to 1 cup of the reserved braising juices over everything. The object is to use enough liquid to moisten everything and provide a firmer-than-soupy consistency without everything literally swimming in braising juices. Sprinkle the pork with salt and the reserved tablespoon of spice rub.

16. Cover with foil and bake for 15 minutes, then uncover and continue baking until heated through and bubbling, another 20 to 30 minutes. Cover with foil and bake for 15 minutes, then uncover and continue baking until heated through and bubbling, another 20 to 30 minutes.

17. To serve, top with the salsa, lime wedges, and cilantro sprigs. To serve, top with the salsa, lime wedges, and cilantro sprigs.

[image]Fresh Tomato Salsa[image]

MAKES 1 CUP.

pound ripe plum tomatoes, peeled (see page 55), seeded, and chopped into -inch dice cup finely diced red onion 1 garlic clove, minced 1 serrano or jalapeno pepper, stemmed, seeded, and finely chopped 1 to 2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 to 3 teaspoons freshly squeezed lime juice Combine the tomato, onion, garlic, and chopped pepper. Add the cilantro to taste. Season with salt, pepper, and 1 teaspoon of lime juice. Taste, adding more lime juice if you like. Cover and refrigerate at least 3 hours. Refrigerated fresh salsa will keep for 24 hours.

Desserts This is a savory cook's-not a pastry cook's-collection of desserts. Savory cooking is flexible; you can often compensate for mistakes without having to jettison all of your previous efforts. Sauces are recouped, soups redeemed, life sails on. Fine pastry, on the other hand, is a pitiless art, akin to high-alt.i.tude mountaineering, where a single misstep can end the project. Understandably, the most ardent pastry chefs are control freaks. Impressive and satisfying as handmade mille-feuille with a spun sugar garnish may be in a restaurant, when I'm cooking at home, I'm looking for ease of preparation as much as great flavor.

I've sifted through menus from Michela's and Rialto, as well as family favorites, for desserts in the spirit of my own savory cooking-that is, they're all a little bit forgiving. Nevertheless, the recipes encompa.s.s a broad range of circ.u.mstances, with some appropriate for formal dinner parties, and others making happy conclusions to family meals and even tagging along on picnics.

The chapter opens with a trio of sweet fruit endings: Grilled Pineapple with Rum, Lime-Ginger Syrup, and Ice Cream; Fresh Fruit with Balsamic Pepper Syrup; and Roasted Pears with 5-Spice Zabaglione. All three are easy, and once you've tasted grilled pineapple, it becomes hard not to have a summer backyard dinner without considering it as the dessert of choice.

The elegant, formal appearance of Chocolate Espresso Torta and Hot Chocolate Creams from Provence belie their straightforward preparation. Both are rich, intensely chocolate treats with distinctly different characters. The torta offers a dense, silken response to lovers of unadulterated dark chocolate; the hot chocolate creams hover somewhere between cake and souffle, served comfortingly warm.

Individual Peppered Peach Tarts with Ginger-Caramel Sauce introduce a section of simple pastries requiring only the most basic skills. Given my druthers, I generally choose tarts over any other dessert. I love the textural contrast of crust, custard, and caramelized fruit. If you can make a basic pastry crust and simple custard, you're capable of dozens of different desserts. In addition to several tarts (my favorite is the Mascarpone Fig), the pastry section includes fruit and nut b.u.t.ter cakes and a couple of desserts that make fine accompaniments to picnics-Ginger Shortbread and Sweet Grape Focaccia.

The desserts conclude with my own family's comfort food favorites, Crema Spessa, the Italian version of baked custard, and Super-Creamy Rice Pudding with Pa.s.sion Fruit Sauce. I'm a peasant at heart, and these are about as simple and rustic as you can get.

Grilled Pineapple with Rum, Lime-Ginger Syrup, and Ice Cream Pineapple's firm texture and high sugar content make it an ideal candidate for the grill. Be sure to buy a pineapple that is already ripe-the fruit does a poor job of ripening on the kitchen counter. The spiced syrup involves little more challenge than a.s.sembling the ingredients and heating them together. The result is an elegant dessert with almost no effort. sugar content make it an ideal candidate for the grill. Be sure to buy a pineapple that is already ripe-the fruit does a poor job of ripening on the kitchen counter. The spiced syrup involves little more challenge than a.s.sembling the ingredients and heating them together. The result is an elegant dessert with almost no effort.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS.

SYRUP.

1 cup water cup sugar Grated zest and juice of 1 lime Grated zest of 1 orange 2 bay leaves teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 2 teaspoons minced fresh ginger vanilla bean, split lengthwise 2 star anise 1 ripe pineapple 2 tablespoons grapeseed oil or other mild-tasting vegetable oil cup dark rum 4 scoops rum, vanilla, or coconut ice cream 2 tablespoons fresh mint leaves cut into very thin strips, for garnish 1. Combine all the syrup ingredients in a nonreactive saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat to a simmer and cook for 20 minutes. Remove from the heat. Remove the vanilla bean and allow it to cool. When cool enough to handle, sc.r.a.pe the seeds into the syrup. Discard the pod or save for another use. Combine all the syrup ingredients in a nonreactive saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat to a simmer and cook for 20 minutes. Remove from the heat. Remove the vanilla bean and allow it to cool. When cool enough to handle, sc.r.a.pe the seeds into the syrup. Discard the pod or save for another use.

2. Prepare a medium fire in a grill. (A grill is medium when you can hold your hand close to the cooking surface for a count of 4 before having to pull it away.) Prepare a medium fire in a grill. (A grill is medium when you can hold your hand close to the cooking surface for a count of 4 before having to pull it away.) 3. Chop off the pineapple flower (the sprout of spiky leaves) and the top inch or so of the fruit. Cut a slice off the bottom of the pineapple so it will stand upright. Slice off the skin in long vertical strips. If there are any "eyes" remaining, cut them out with a paring knife or potato peeler. If you have a pineapple corer, use it to remove the core, then lay the fruit on its side and cut eight -inch-thick slices. If you don't have a corer, just turn the pineapple on its side and cut the 8 slices, then use a paring knife or cookie cutter to remove the woody core at the center of each slice. (Reserve any remaining pineapple for another use.) Chop off the pineapple flower (the sprout of spiky leaves) and the top inch or so of the fruit. Cut a slice off the bottom of the pineapple so it will stand upright. Slice off the skin in long vertical strips. If there are any "eyes" remaining, cut them out with a paring knife or potato peeler. If you have a pineapple corer, use it to remove the core, then lay the fruit on its side and cut eight -inch-thick slices. If you don't have a corer, just turn the pineapple on its side and cut the 8 slices, then use a paring knife or cookie cutter to remove the woody core at the center of each slice. (Reserve any remaining pineapple for another use.) 4. Brush the pineapple rings with the oil and grill on both sides until lightly charred, about 5 minutes per side. Brush the pineapple rings with the oil and grill on both sides until lightly charred, about 5 minutes per side.

5. Arrange 2 pineapple rings on each plate. Pour a tablespoon of rum over each set of rings, then drizzle with the spiced syrup. Add a scoop of ice cream to each plate. Sprinkle with the strips of mint and serve. Arrange 2 pineapple rings on each plate. Pour a tablespoon of rum over each set of rings, then drizzle with the spiced syrup. Add a scoop of ice cream to each plate. Sprinkle with the strips of mint and serve.

Fresh Fruit with Balsamic Pepper Syrup Where would we be without balsamic vinegar? I can still remember my teenage incredulity when a cooking teacher prefaced my first taste with the explanation that it was often served over strawberries. All it took was one taste of a fine ten-year-old sample to erase my skepticism. This dish should really be prepared only a couple of hours before serving. Raspberries and strawberries are particularly fragile and they will turn mushy if cut and allowed to sit in the syrup too far ahead. balsamic vinegar? I can still remember my teenage incredulity when a cooking teacher prefaced my first taste with the explanation that it was often served over strawberries. All it took was one taste of a fine ten-year-old sample to erase my skepticism. This dish should really be prepared only a couple of hours before serving. Raspberries and strawberries are particularly fragile and they will turn mushy if cut and allowed to sit in the syrup too far ahead.

Ordinarily people jettison macerated fruit after a night in the refrigerator because its texture deteriorates, but we love smoothies for breakfast, especially with whole-milk Greek yogurt. So I always save these leftovers-somebody will puree them into breakfast the next day.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS.

3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar cup packed brown sugar 2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper (use a little less if you prefer a milder dish) 2 bananas 1 pint fresh strawberries, washed, hulled, and halved lengthwise 1 pint fresh raspberries 1. Mix the vinegar, brown sugar, and pepper together in a medium bowl. Mix the vinegar, brown sugar, and pepper together in a medium bowl.

2. Peel the bananas and cut into -inch-thick slices. Add all the fruit to the bowl with the syrup and toss gently to coat. Let sit for 15 minutes, then serve. Peel the bananas and cut into -inch-thick slices. Add all the fruit to the bowl with the syrup and toss gently to coat. Let sit for 15 minutes, then serve.

Roasted Pears with 5-Spice Zabaglione Zabaglione, a delightful whipped froth of egg yolks, sugar, and Marsala, can be served as a sauce or a dessert in its own right. Traditional recipes call for it to be served warm, right after it's made, but I sometimes like to thicken it a bit by adding some cream and chilling it. of egg yolks, sugar, and Marsala, can be served as a sauce or a dessert in its own right. Traditional recipes call for it to be served warm, right after it's made, but I sometimes like to thicken it a bit by adding some cream and chilling it.

This particular dessert evolved out of my experience writing Sunday night menus with Gordon Hammersley at his restaurant, Hammersley's Bistro. On Sunday nights, we served a special abbreviated menu, so desserts had to be quick, easy, and flavorful; roasted fruit with zabaglione was ideal. Gordon is a big fan of Chinese 5-spice powder-cinnamon, cloves, fennel seed, star anise, and Szechwan peppercorns-and I happen to like incorporating savory ingredients into sweet desserts. The result is both sensuous and exotic.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS.

ZABAGLIONE.

4 extra-large egg yolks, at room temperature cup sugar cup Marsala 1 teaspoon 5-spice powder Pinch of kosher salt cup heavy cream PEARS.

4 ripe Bosc pears 2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice cup sugar 4 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter DO AHEAD: Roast the pears a day or two in advance and reheat in a 400 oven for 5 to 7 minutes before serving; the zabaglione is also fine if made a day ahead. Roast the pears a day or two in advance and reheat in a 400 oven for 5 to 7 minutes before serving; the zabaglione is also fine if made a day ahead.

1. Beat the egg yolks, sugar, Marsala, 5-spice powder, and salt together in a medium metal bowl until smooth. Set the bowl over low heat and whisk vigorously until the mixture is thick, foamy, and pale yellow in color, about 10 minutes. If there is the slightest hint that the eggs are cooking rather than just foaming, remove from the heat and keep beating. If you're uncomfortable setting the bowl directly over the heat source, place it over a pot of simmering water (don't let the bottom of the bowl touch the water). Remove from the heat and refrigerate until thoroughly chilled, at least an hour. Then stir in the cream and chill again at least 15 minutes. While the zabaglione is chilling, you can roast the pears. Beat the egg yolks, sugar, Marsala, 5-spice powder, and salt together in a medium metal bowl until smooth. Set the bowl over low heat and whisk vigorously until the mixture is thick, foamy, and pale yellow in color, about 10 minutes. If there is the slightest hint that the eggs are cooking rather than just foaming, remove from the heat and keep beating. If you're uncomfortable setting the bowl directly over the heat source, place it over a pot of simmering water (don't let the bottom of the bowl touch the water). Remove from the heat and refrigerate until thoroughly chilled, at least an hour. Then stir in the cream and chill again at least 15 minutes. While the zabaglione is chilling, you can roast the pears.

2. Preheat the oven to 450F. Preheat the oven to 450F.

3. Peel the pears and cut them in half. Toss with the lemon juice and sugar. Peel the pears and cut them in half. Toss with the lemon juice and sugar.

4. Cut the b.u.t.ter into 8 pieces and place in the smallest baking pan you have that will hold the pears comfortably, but without touching. (Don't put the pears in it yet.) Place the roasting pan in the oven until the b.u.t.ter melts, about 3 minutes; don't let it burn. Remove the pan from the oven. Roll the pears around in the pan until they're evenly coated with b.u.t.ter (reserve any leftover lemon-sugar mixture). Arrange them cut side down in the pan in a single layer without touching and sprinkle with any remaining lemon-sugar. Cut the b.u.t.ter into 8 pieces and place in the smallest baking pan you have that will hold the pears comfortably, but without touching. (Don't put the pears in it yet.) Place the roasting pan in the oven until the b.u.t.ter melts, about 3 minutes; don't let it burn. Remove the pan from the oven. Roll the pears around in the pan until they're evenly coated with b.u.t.ter (reserve any leftover lemon-sugar mixture). Arrange them cut side down in the pan in a single layer without touching and sprinkle with any remaining lemon-sugar.

5. Set the pan on the lowest rack in the oven. Roast for 20 minutes. Flip the pears and continue cooking until caramelized to a deep golden color, about another 20 minutes. Remove from the pan. Remove the cores as soon as the pears are cool enough to handle, but keep the cored pears warm. Set the pan on the lowest rack in the oven. Roast for 20 minutes. Flip the pears and continue cooking until caramelized to a deep golden color, about another 20 minutes. Remove from the pan. Remove the cores as soon as the pears are cool enough to handle, but keep the cored pears warm.

6. Place 2 pear halves on each plate. Spoon the zabaglione liberally over the pears and serve. Place 2 pear halves on each plate. Spoon the zabaglione liberally over the pears and serve.

Chocolate Espresso Torta Every chef has three or four recipes that haunt her, following her wherever she goes, refusing to change. Ironically, one of my culinary ghosts is a recipe I inherited when I became a chef at Michela's, a dense flourless chocolate torta that had been developed by one of the restaurant's previous pastry chefs. When Michela's closed, loyal clientele followed Michela Larson and me to our new restaurant, Rialto, demanding their old favorites, including the espresso torta. One customer, who eats at Rialto every Wednesday night, wrote me so many adamant notes that I finally threw in the towel and we now keep one or two tortas on hand just for diehards like him, even though the torta is no longer on our dessert menu. Don't fiddle with the recipe-believe me, we've tried-it really can't be improved on. Just be sure to use premium chocolate and espresso. recipes that haunt her, following her wherever she goes, refusing to change. Ironically, one of my culinary ghosts is a recipe I inherited when I became a chef at Michela's, a dense flourless chocolate torta that had been developed by one of the restaurant's previous pastry chefs. When Michela's closed, loyal clientele followed Michela Larson and me to our new restaurant, Rialto, demanding their old favorites, including the espresso torta. One customer, who eats at Rialto every Wednesday night, wrote me so many adamant notes that I finally threw in the towel and we now keep one or two tortas on hand just for diehards like him, even though the torta is no longer on our dessert menu. Don't fiddle with the recipe-believe me, we've tried-it really can't be improved on. Just be sure to use premium chocolate and espresso.

The torta keeps for 3 to 4 days in the refrigerator, although it should be brought up to room temperature before serving. It will keep for up to a month in the freezer.

MAKES 12 TO 16 SERVINGS.

pound (3 sticks) plus 1 tablespoon unsalted b.u.t.ter, or as needed 1 cup sugar 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons espresso or very strong brewed coffee pound semisweet chocolate, chopped into 1-inch pieces pound unsweetened chocolate, chopped into 1-inch pieces 6 extra-large eggs, at room temperature 6 extra-large yolks, at room temperature 2 tablespoons cocoa powder for garnish Vanilla or coffee ice cream (optional) DO AHEAD: Make the torta batter (minus the eggs, which are added the next day) and allow it to sit covered and refrigerated for 12 hours. (It can sit overnight.) Since the cake is actually better if allowed to rest for a day before serving, start the torta 2 days ahead. Make the torta batter (minus the eggs, which are added the next day) and allow it to sit covered and refrigerated for 12 hours. (It can sit overnight.) Since the cake is actually better if allowed to rest for a day before serving, start the torta 2 days ahead.

1. Melt pound of the b.u.t.ter with the sugar and espresso in a nonreactive saucepan over low heat. Add the chocolate and stir until completely melted. Do not let the mixture boil, or the chocolate will separate and seize up. Whisk off the heat until the mixture is smooth and s.h.i.+ny. Let stand, covered, for at least 12 hours, or overnight, at room temperature. After standing, it should have the consistency of peanut b.u.t.ter. Melt pound of the b.u.t.ter with the sugar and espresso in a nonreactive saucepan over low heat. Add the chocolate and stir until completely melted. Do not let the mixture boil, or the chocolate will separate and seize up. Whisk off the heat until the mixture is smooth and s.h.i.+ny. Let stand, covered, for at least 12 hours, or overnight, at room temperature. After standing, it should have the consistency of peanut b.u.t.ter.

2. Preheat the oven to 350F. Cut a circle of parchment paper to fit the bottom of a 9-inch cake pan. Grease the pan with as much of the remaining b.u.t.ter as needed, and line it with the circle of parchment paper, pressing the paper firmly onto the bottom of the pan. Preheat the oven to 350F. Cut a circle of parchment paper to fit the bottom of a 9-inch cake pan. Grease the pan with as much of the remaining b.u.t.ter as needed, and line it with the circle of parchment paper, pressing the paper firmly onto the bottom of the pan.

3. Beat the eggs and egg yolks together in a large bowl until just mixed-not until foamy. Stir in the chocolate mixture. Pour the batter into the lined pan. Beat the eggs and egg yolks together in a large bowl until just mixed-not until foamy. Stir in the chocolate mixture. Pour the batter into the lined pan.

4. Put the cake pan in the middle of a roasting pan. Pour enough warm water into the pan to come halfway up the sides of the cake pan. Bake in the middle of the oven until the batter is almost set-it should still be slightly wiggly in the center-about 1 hour. Cool on a rack. If possible, allow the torta to rest overnight in the refrigerator. Put the cake pan in the middle of a roasting pan. Pour enough warm water into the pan to come halfway up the sides of the cake pan. Bake in the middle of the oven until the batter is almost set-it should still be slightly wiggly in the center-about 1 hour. Cool on a rack. If possible, allow the torta to rest overnight in the refrigerator.

5. When cool or chilled, remove the torta from the pan, invert it onto a serving platter, and carefully peel away the parchment paper. Invert it onto a serving platter. Sift a thin even layer of cocoa over the torta just before serving. Accompany with ice cream, if you like. When cool or chilled, remove the torta from the pan, invert it onto a serving platter, and carefully peel away the parchment paper. Invert it onto a serving platter. Sift a thin even layer of cocoa over the torta just before serving. Accompany with ice cream, if you like.

Hot Chocolate Creams from Provence I first encountered this unctuous Provencal first encountered this unctuous Provencal indulgence on a trip to France. I was instantly seduced by its wonderful gamut of textures, the crusty outside yielding to a warm creamy interior, as though chocolate had been given the texture of a soft-ripening cheese. Soon after my return, I tried a recipe in a cookbook of traditional Provencal cooking by Jean-Andre Charial-Thuilier. Ultimately I came up with a version that calls for about as much chocolate as the recipe can handle and still produce the spectrum of textures. It is far and away the most popular dessert I've ever served at Rialto-and it's a breeze to make. indulgence on a trip to France. I was instantly seduced by its wonderful gamut of textures, the crusty outside yielding to a warm creamy interior, as though chocolate had been given the texture of a soft-ripening cheese. Soon after my return, I tried a recipe in a cookbook of traditional Provencal cooking by Jean-Andre Charial-Thuilier. Ultimately I came up with a version that calls for about as much chocolate as the recipe can handle and still produce the spectrum of textures. It is far and away the most popular dessert I've ever served at Rialto-and it's a breeze to make.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS.

9 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter 2 teaspoons unbleached all-purpose flour pound semisweet chocolate, chopped into 1-inch pieces 4 extra-large eggs, at room temperature 6 tablespoons sugar DO AHEAD: You can make the chocolate mixture a day ahead; prepare the mixture as instructed, then refrigerate. Let come up to room temperature before continuing with the recipe. You can make the chocolate mixture a day ahead; prepare the mixture as instructed, then refrigerate. Let come up to room temperature before continuing with the recipe.

1. Preheat the oven to 400F. Grease four 4-ounce ramekins with 1 tablespoon of the b.u.t.ter and then dust each one with teaspoon flour. Preheat the oven to 400F. Grease four 4-ounce ramekins with 1 tablespoon of the b.u.t.ter and then dust each one with teaspoon flour.

2. Melt the chocolate with the remaining 8 tablespoons b.u.t.ter in a small saucepan over low heat. As soon as the chocolate starts to melt, remove from the heat and beat until the mixture is smooth. (If making ahead, cover and refrigerate the mixture, for as long as overnight. Allow it to come up to room temperature before continuing.) Melt the chocolate with the remaining 8 tablespoons b.u.t.ter in a small saucepan over low heat. As soon as the chocolate starts to melt, remove from the heat and beat until the mixture is smooth. (If making ahead, cover and refrigerate the mixture, for as long as overnight. Allow it to come up to room temperature before continuing.) 3. Beat the eggs in a large bowl with the sugar until the sugar dissolves and the eggs are foamy. Fold the chocolate mixture into the eggs. Beat the eggs in a large bowl with the sugar until the sugar dissolves and the eggs are foamy. Fold the chocolate mixture into the eggs.

4. Pour the chocolate mixture into the prepared ramekins. Bake for 12 minutes, or until just set-the centers will still be slightly liquid. Let stand for 3 to 4 minutes, then turn them out onto warm plates and serve. Pour the chocolate mixture into the prepared ramekins. Bake for 12 minutes, or until just set-the centers will still be slightly liquid. Let stand for 3 to 4 minutes, then turn them out onto warm plates and serve.

Peppered Peach Tarts with Ginger-Caramel Sauce My husband and I used to shun peaches. Ripe peaches are quite fragile-they travel poorly unless properly packaged-and about fifteen years ago, it seemed that almost overnight mealy peach impersonators had supplanted the luscious fruit that had been available in supermarkets. In Europe, peaches are sold either ripe or within a day or two of ripening, but these new hybrids were sold when still quite hard. While it is not true that peaches have to ripen on the tree, not all peaches ripen at home equally well. Many rot before ripening or lose their moisture or just have little taste-all of which seems remarkably similar to the fate of the American tomato. In recent years, however, the growth of farmers' markets has provided an outlet for peaches that don't have to travel. They still aren't sold ripe, so we keep them in a closed shoe box under the kitchen table, letting them ripen almost to the point of collapse before eating them, but they do taste good. New England peaches are smaller than those grown in the South or Southwest, but, like a lot of things in life, size isn't everything. When I can't get farmers' market peaches, I use organic or "tree-ripened" ones. to shun peaches. Ripe peaches are quite fragile-they travel poorly unless properly packaged-and about fifteen years ago, it seemed that almost overnight mealy peach impersonators had supplanted the luscious fruit that had been available in supermarkets. In Europe, peaches are sold either ripe or within a day or two of ripening, but these new hybrids were sold when still quite hard. While it is not true that peaches have to ripen on the tree, not all peaches ripen at home equally well. Many rot before ripening or lose their moisture or just have little taste-all of which seems remarkably similar to the fate of the American tomato. In recent years, however, the growth of farmers' markets has provided an outlet for peaches that don't have to travel. They still aren't sold ripe, so we keep them in a closed shoe box under the kitchen table, letting them ripen almost to the point of collapse before eating them, but they do taste good. New England peaches are smaller than those grown in the South or Southwest, but, like a lot of things in life, size isn't everything. When I can't get farmers' market peaches, I use organic or "tree-ripened" ones.

Peaches and black pepper are a great match, a fact I discovered while grilling them with pork and searing them with rabbit, and I decided to try the same combination in a dessert. Adding black pepper to a cla.s.sic peach tart gives the dessert an exotic flavor reminiscent of chutney, while the caramel sauce and whipped cream don't let you forget that you're eating a sweet dessert.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS.

TARTS.

4 ripe peaches cup plus 4 teaspoons sugar 4 teaspoons unbleached all-purpose flour, plus extra for rolling out the dough 2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper 1 recipe Basic Pastry Dough (recipe follows) 4 teaspoons unsalted b.u.t.ter SAUCE.

cup sugar 2 tablespoons water 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh ginger 1 tablespoon unsalted b.u.t.ter cup heavy cream cup heavy cream for whipped cream garnish 1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Prepare a large bowl of ice water. Dip the peaches into the boiling water for 10 seconds-no longer. If they cook longer, the flesh will begin to bind with the skin, and peeling the peaches will become a nightmare. Immediately immerse the peaches in the ice water. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Prepare a large bowl of ice water. Dip the peaches into the boiling water for 10 seconds-no longer. If they cook longer, the flesh will begin to bind with the skin, and peeling the peaches will become a nightmare. Immediately immerse the peaches in the ice water.

2. When they are cool enough to handle, drain and dry the peaches, then peel them. Cut in half and remove the pits. Cut each peach half into 4 slices. Gently toss the peaches with cup of the sugar, the flour, and pepper. Set aside. When they are cool enough to handle, drain and dry the peaches, then peel them. Cut in half and remove the pits. Cut each peach half into 4 slices. Gently toss the peaches with cup of the sugar, the flour, and pepper. Set aside.

3. Cut the dough into 4 equal pieces and form into disks. Roll each one into a 6-inch circle about inch thick. Put the dough on the sheet pans. Arrange 8 peach slices on the dough, spoke-fas.h.i.+on, leaving a border of 1 inch. Pull up the edges of the dough around the peaches, and crimp. Dot each tart with 1 teaspoon of the b.u.t.ter and sprinkle with 1 teaspoon sugar. Chill the tarts for at least 30 minutes and up to 24 hours. Cut the dough into 4 equal pieces and form into disks. Roll each one into a 6-inch circle about inch thick. Put the dough on the sheet pans. Arrange 8 peach slices on the dough, spoke-fas.h.i.+on, leaving a border of 1 inch. Pull up the edges of the dough around the peaches, and crimp. Dot each tart with 1 teaspoon of the b.u.t.ter and sprinkle with 1 teaspoon sugar. Chill the tarts for at least 30 minutes and up to 24 hours.

4. Preheat the oven to 400F. Preheat the oven to 400F.

5. Arrange the tarts on a sheet pan (with sides, in case the juices run out during baking). Bake for 40 minutes, or until the peaches are tender and the crusts are golden and crisp. Allow to cool for 5 minutes on a wire rack. Arrange the tarts on a sheet pan (with sides, in case the juices run out during baking). Bake for 40 minutes, or until the peaches are tender and the crusts are golden and crisp. Allow to cool for 5 minutes on a wire rack.

6. While the tarts are baking, make the sauce: Mix the sugar with the water in a heavy saucepan. Add the ginger and cook over medium heat stirring with a metal spoon, until the sugar is golden and caramelized. Remove the pan from the heat and allow to cool for 30 seconds to avoid the possibility of splattering when you add the b.u.t.ter. Whisk in the b.u.t.ter, making sure it's thoroughly incorporated. Slowly whisk in cup cream-if you add the cream too fast, the caramel may bubble over, and possibly burn you. Strain to remove the ginger, if desired. Set aside. While the tarts are baking, make the sauce: Mix the sugar with the water in a heavy saucepan. Add the ginger and cook over medium heat stirring with a metal spoon, until the sugar is golden and caramelized. Remove the pan from the heat and allow to cool for 30 seconds to avoid the possibility of splattering when you add the b.u.t.ter. Whisk in the b.u.t.ter, making sure it's thoroughly incorporated. Slowly whisk in cup cream-if you add the cream too fast, the caramel may bubble over, and possibly burn you. Strain to remove the ginger, if desired. Set aside.

7. Whip the remaining cup heavy cream in a medium bowl until it stiffens and holds its shape. Whip the remaining cup heavy cream in a medium bowl until it stiffens and holds its shape.

8. To serve, place each tart on a plate. Zigzag the caramel sauce over each tart and top with a dollop of whipped cream. To serve, place each tart on a plate. Zigzag the caramel sauce over each tart and top with a dollop of whipped cream.

Basic Pastry Dough I love a good crust love a good crust almost more than whatever it's holding. My favorite part of a pie is the crimped edge of crust and the first inch or so, the top of the pie where the juices have caramelized into the dough. If there's a leftover pie on the kitchen counter when I come home late at night, I'm the one who nibbles at the edges. almost more than whatever it's holding. My favorite part of a pie is the crimped edge of crust and the first inch or so, the top of the pie where the juices have caramelized into the dough. If there's a leftover pie on the kitchen counter when I come home late at night, I'm the one who nibbles at the edges.

Books have been written about pastry, but basically it's a hands-on activity that improves with experience. Even novices can make a decently flaky crust as long as three simple precautions are kept in mind. The chilled b.u.t.ter must be worked into the cold flour quickly so that the b.u.t.ter and flour can form layers; if the b.u.t.ter becomes too soft or (G.o.d forbid) melts, then it simply coats the particles of flour instead of forming layers with it. Second, the dough must be manipulated as little as possible so that the gluten fibers remain undeveloped. The more the gluten develops, the chewier the final product (hence, bread dough is kneaded purposely to develop the gluten). Finally, the water should be added as sparingly as possible; the more water, the heavier the dough-and the denser the pastry.

This is a good general-purpose recipe for either sweet or savory dough, depending on whether you use the sugar or not. The dough will keep for a couple of days in the refrigerator, and for several months in the freezer if tightly wrapped in plastic, then in foil.

MAKES ABOUT POUND; ENOUGH FOR ONE 10- TO 11-INCH PIECRUST OR ONE 11-INCH TART Sh.e.l.l.

1 cups unbleached all-purpose flour, chilled teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons sugar (for sweet pastry dough) 9 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter, cut into tablespoon-sized pieces and chilled 3 to 4 tablespoons ice water 1. Pour the flour into a mound on a countertop. Add the salt, and sugar, if you're making sweet pastry, and toss well. Work the b.u.t.ter into the flour with the tips of your fingers until the b.u.t.ter is in small pea-sized pieces. Add the water 2 tablespoons at a time, tossing with your fingers to incorporate the water into the dough. Add more as needed. The dough should be crumbly. Pour the flour into a mound on a countertop. Add the salt, and sugar, if you're making sweet pastry, and toss well. Work the b.u.t.ter into the flour with the tips of your fingers until the b.u.t.ter is in small pea-sized pieces. Add the water 2 tablespoons at a time, tossing with your fingers to incorporate the water into the dough. Add more as needed. The dough should be crumbly.