Encyclopedia of Needlework Part 62

Before proceeding further, it is as well to prepare our readers for the many trials they will have to make, even with the help of the most minute explanations, before they succeed in carrying out the directions; for the whole art of making pillow lace lies in a manual dexterity, only attainable by practice.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 786. NET GROUND. COMPLETED.]

Even copying the patterns from description is only possible at first in a qualified sense; the surest way of attaining a satisfactory result is by constantly comparing the drawing and the work in progress and wherever the latter does not correspond with the former, trying at once to rectify the difference.

LINEN OR CLOTH GROUND.--The pattern used for net pa.s.sing can also be used for linen pa.s.sing or ground but 7 pins, instead of 6, have to be stuck in at the top first. As in net pa.s.sing, you work first from left to right, running 2 threads to and fro in perfectly horizontal lines, so as to produce a ground resembling linen in its texture.

The threads that run to and fro are held at the edge with pins and changed by a half pa.s.sing, so that the one that was first in going, is first also in returning.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 787. PATTERN FOR PLAIN HOLE GROUND.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 788. PLAIN HOLE GROUND.]

The use of the machine for crossing the threads is especially to be recommended in working linen ground; by pressing the short branches of the machine, the position of the threads is changed and the bobbin is pushed through; by a second pressure the second bobbin is driven through, the pin is stuck in for the picot or the cord, when the bobbins are taken back again, four movements being thus all that is required.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 789. WHEEL BEGUN IN HOLE GROUND.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 790. WHEEL IN HOLE GROUND COMPLETED.]

PLAIN HOLE GROUND (figs. 787 and 788).--Hole ground can be worked in various ways; we will begin by describing the plain hole ground, which as a rule forms the ground of all torchon laces. After fixing the pattern, as represented in fig. 787, upon the pillow, stick in 5 pins, hang 2 pairs of bobbins on to each and throw the 2nd bobbin of each pair over its fellow = 1 half pa.s.sing with the 2nd and 3rd pairs = put up a pin at point 1 = 1 half pa.s.sing with the same pair = this encloses the pin = lay the 3rd pair aside = 1 half pa.s.sing with the 2nd and 1st pair = put up a pin at point 2 = enclose it with the same pairs = 1 half pa.s.sing with the 5th and 4th pair = put up a pin at point 3 = enclose it with the same pairs = lay the 5th pair aside = 1 half pa.s.sing the 4th and 3rd pair = put up the pin at point 4 = enclose the same = lay the 4th pair aside = work on in the same way over points 5 and 6 = 1 half pa.s.sing with the 6th and 7th pair = put up the pin at point 7 = enclose the same = work on in the same way over points 8, 9, 10, 11 and 12 = 1 half pa.s.sing with the 8th and 9th pair = put up the pin at point 31 = enclose the same = work on over points 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 and 20 = 1 half pa.s.sing with the 9th and 10th pair = put up the pin at point 21 = enclose the same and proceed as in the preceding rows, from point 22 to 29.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 791. PATTERN FOR ROSE GROUND.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 792. ROSE GROUND.]

Hole ground with twisted thread is made in the same way we have just been describing, only that after every half pa.s.sing enclosing the pin, each pair of bobbins is twisted once. A ground which is worked in this way is stronger than the other. Twisted hole ground is seen again in figs. 792 and 794.

WHEELS IN HOLE GROUND (figs. 789 and 790).--For the wheels, which are often worked on pillow-made grounds, 4, 6, 8 pairs of bobbins, sometimes even more are used (see likewise fig. 801).

In fig. 789, the wheel is worked with the 4 middle pairs of bobbins.

Each pair has first to be twisted once = 1 linen pa.s.sing with the 3rd and 2nd pair = lay aside the 3rd pair = 1 linen pa.s.sing with the 2nd and 4th pair = lay both pairs aside = 1 linen pa.s.sing with the 4th and 3rd pair = lay aside the 4th pair = 1 linen pa.s.sing with the 3rd and 2nd pair = put up the pin at the next point and between the 2nd and 3rd pair = 1 linen pa.s.sing with the 3rd and 2nd pair = lay aside the 3rd pair = 1 linen pa.s.sing with the 2nd and 1st pair = lay both pairs aside = 1 linen pa.s.sing with the 4th and 3rd pair = lay the 4th pair aside = 1 linen pa.s.sing with the 3rd and 2nd pair = the last pa.s.sing completes the wheel, such as it is represented in fig. 790.

Twist the pairs of bobbins again as you did before beginning the wheel and then proceed with the plain ground.

ROSE GROUND (figs. 791 and 792).--After preparing the pattern, as in fig. 791, put up pins at _a_, _b_, _c_, _d_, _e_, _f_, _g_, _h_ and _i_ and hang on 2 pairs of bobbins to the first pin, and one pair to each of the other 8 = 1 half pa.s.sing with the 1st and 2nd pair = twist each pair once = take out the pin at point _a_ and put it up again at the same point between the pairs = enclose the pin with 1 half pa.s.sing = twist the pair once = lay the 1st pair aside = 1 half pa.s.sing with the 2nd and 3rd pair = twist the pair again = take out the pin at _b_, put it in again at the same point between the pair = enclose the pin = twist the pairs again = lay the 2nd pair aside = 1 half pa.s.sing with the 3rd and 4th pair = twist the pair again = take out the needle at _c_ and put it in again at the same point between the pairs = enclose the pin = twist the pair again = 1 half pa.s.sing with the 3rd and 2nd pair = twist the pair again = put up a pin at point 1 = enclose the pin = twist the pair again = 1 half pa.s.sing with the 2nd and 1st pair = twist the pair again = put up a pin at point 2 = enclose the pin = work point 2 and 1 with the 3rd and 2nd pair = 1 half pa.s.sing with the 4th and 5th pair = twist the pairs again = take out the pin at _d_ and put it in again at the same point between the pair = work point _e_ exactly like point _d_ with the 5th and 6th pair = work point 4 like point 3 with the 4th and 5th pair = work points 5, 6 and 7 in a slanting direction from right to left = carry out point 8 with the 5th and 4th pair = lay both pairs aside = work point 9 with the 3rd and 2nd pair = work point _f_ like point _e_ with the 6th and 7th pair = work point _g_ like point _f_ with the 7th and 8th pair = then work points 10 to 15 with the 6th and 7th pair = point 16 with the 7th and 6th pair = point 17 with the 5th and 4th pair = point 18 with the 3rd and 2nd pair = point _h_ like point _g_ with the 8th and 9th pair = point _i_ with the 9th and 10th pair = points 19 to 26 with the 9th and 10th pair = point 27 with the 9th and 8th pair = point 28 with the 7th and 6th pair = point 29 with the 5th and 4th pair = point 30 with the 3rd and 2nd pair. Proceed in this manner until the whole ground be finished.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 793. PATTERN FOR FIG. 794]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 794. DOUBLE OR ORNAMENTAL GROUND.]

DOUBLE OR ORNAMENTAL GROUND (figs. 793 and 794).--This ground should be worked in a comparatively fine material; we should recommend Fil a dentelle D.M.C Nos. 30 to 100. Put up pins at points _a_ and _g_ in the pattern and hang on a pair of bobbins = put up pins likewise at _b_, _c_, _d_, _e_ and _f_ and hang on a pair of bobbins to each = 1 half pa.s.sing with the 2nd and 3rd pair = take out the pin at point _b_ and put it in again between the pair at the same place = enclose the pin with a half pa.s.sing = 1 half pa.s.sing with the 2nd and 1st pair = put up a pin at point 1 = enclose the pin = 1 half pa.s.sing with the 4th and 5th pair = take out the pin at point _l_ and put it in again between the pairs at the same place = enclose the needle = 1 half pa.s.sing with the 4th and 3rd pair = put up a pin at point 2 = enclose the needle = 1 half pa.s.sing with the 3rd and 2nd pair = put up a pin at point 3 = enclose the needle = 1 half pa.s.sing with the 3rd and 4th pair = 1 half pa.s.sing with the 2nd and 1st pair = put up a needle at point 4 = enclose the needle = work point _d_ like point _c_ with the 6th and 7th pair = 1 half pa.s.sing with the 6th and 5th pair = put up a pin at point 5 = enclose the pin = work over point _e_ like point _d_ with the 7th and 8th pair = 1 half pa.s.sing with the 7th and 6th pair = put up a pin at point 6 = enclose the pin = 1 half pa.s.sing with the 6th and 5th pair = put up a pin at point 7 = enclose the pin = 1 half pa.s.sing with the 6th and 7th pair = lay the 2 pairs aside = 1 half pa.s.sing with the 5th and 4th pair, by which the threads are made to cross each other in the square = work over point _f_ as over point _e_ with the 10th and 11th pair = work over points 17 to 19 as over points 5 to 7 = when the square is finished 1 half pa.s.sing with the 10th and 11th pair = half pa.s.sings between all the squares.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 795. TULLE GROUND.]

TULLE GROUND (fig. 795).--Prepare your pattern for the ground represented here on a magnified scale, by p.r.i.c.king holes at regular distances so as to form diagonal lines intersecting each other, as shown in the engraving, and set more or less closely together, according to the thickness of the thread you use.

1 half pa.s.sing = put up the pin at the next point, twist both pairs twice, but without enclosing the pin, and pa.s.s the inner left thread over the inner left one = twist the two pairs again = cross as before and so on.

VALENCIENNES GROUND (fig. 796).--The Valenciennes ground is formed of little plaits for which 2 pairs of bobbins are used. These plaits are often used in other kinds of lace as well, as may be seen for instance in figs. 801, 802 and 806 which are not Valenciennes patterns.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 796. VALENCIENNES GROUND.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 797. BRUSSELS GROUND.]

According to the size of the squares the plaits are made with either 4, 6 or 8 half pa.s.sings, 2 pairs of bobbins being invariably used. The plaits are joined by a half pa.s.sing, made with the last pair of the left plait and the first of the right = stick the pin into the hole = enclose the pin by a half pa.s.sing and work the next plait on the left with the two left pairs and the next plait on the right with the two right pairs.

BRUSSELS GROUND (fig. 797).--For the sake of greater clearness, this ground too has been worked and reproduced here on a magnified scale.

It is worked in diagonal lines, as follows: 1 double pa.s.sing with 2 pairs of bobbins = put up a pin at the next point = enclose the pin with a double pa.s.sing, twist both pairs each time once and so on. This ground, when it is worked by the hand in very fine thread, takes a long time to do and is therefore often made by machinery.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 798. ETERNELLE WITH TWO ROWS OF HOLES.]

ETERNELLE WITH TWO ROWS OF HOLES (fig. 798).--The so-called eternelle laces have no definite pattern; they can be made of any width, in the form of insertions or edgings.

For a single row of holes, you want 6 pairs of bobbins; for two rows, 7; for three, 9, adding two pairs of bobbins for every additional row of holes. The upper part of fig. 798 shows how the points are distributed; here 7 pairs of bobbins are used.

Put up a pin at the topmost point = hang on 2 pairs of bobbins = 1 double pa.s.sing = take out the pin and put it in again between the two pairs = tighten the pair = hang on 1 pair of bobbins again on the left = 1 double pa.s.sing with the 1st pair of the bobbins you hung on first and with the new pair = push the double pa.s.sing close to the pin = twist the first pair once and then lay it aside = 1 double pa.s.sing with the 2nd and 3rd pair that enclose the pin = hang on 2 pairs of bobbins in the middle = 1 double pa.s.sing with both pairs = lay the 5th pair aside = 1 double pa.s.sing with the 4th and 3rd pair = lay the 4th pair aside = 1 double pa.s.sing with the 2nd and 1st pair = twist the 1st pair once and lay it aside = 1 double pa.s.sing with the 2nd and 3rd pair that enclose the pin = put up 1 pin at the 3rd lower point, hang on 2 pairs of bobbins = 1 double pa.s.sing with these bobbins = lay the 7th pair aside = * 1 double pa.s.sing with the 6th and 5th pair = lay the 6th pair aside = 1 double pa.s.sing with the 5th and 4th pair = lay the 5th pair aside = 1 double pa.s.sing with the 4th and 3rd pair = lay the 4th pair aside = 1 double pa.s.sing with the 3rd and 2nd pair = put up a pin at the next point = 1 double pa.s.sing with the 2nd and 1st pair = twist the 1st pair once = 1 double pa.s.sing with the 2nd and 3rd pair, to enclose the pin = lay the 3 first pairs aside = 1 double st.i.tch with the 4th and 5th pair = lay the last two pairs aside = 1 double pa.s.sing with the 6th and 7th pair = put up a pin at the next point = enclose the pin with the last pairs = repeat from *.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 799. LACE WITH TORCHON GROUND AND EDGE IN NET GROUND. MATERIALS: Fil a pointer D.M.C No. 30. Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 20 to 100, or Fil a dentelle D.M.C Nos. 25 to 150, white or ecru.[A]]

LACE WITH TORCHON GROUND AND EDGE IN NET GROUND (fig. 799).--Worked with 10 pairs of bobbins.

Put up a pin at * = make net pa.s.sings, fig. 786, to point 1 = put up a pin at point 1 = enclose the pin with the two last pairs on the right = net pa.s.sings to point 2 = put up a pin at point 2 = lay one pair of bobbins aside = net pa.s.sings to point 3 = put up a pin at point 3 = enclose the pin = net pa.s.sings to point 4 = put up a pin at point 4 = lay one pair of bobbins aside = net pa.s.sings to point 5 = put up a pin at point 5 = net pa.s.sings, back to point 6 = put up a pin at point 6 = take up the bobbins on the left again = 1 half pa.s.sing with the 1st pair on the left = put up a pin at point 7 = work the torchon ground, at the top of the lace, as in fig. 788, with the 2nd and 3rd pair = 1 half pa.s.sing with the 3rd and 4th pair = put up a pin at point 8 = twist the 1st and 2nd pair = 1 double pa.s.sing with the 1st and 2nd pair = put up a pin at point 9 = 1 double pa.s.sing with the 2nd and 3rd pair = lay the 2nd pair aside = make hole or torchon st.i.tch, fig. 788, with the 3rd and 4th pair = put up a pin at point 10 = work on to point 11 in hole ground = put up a pin at point 11 = cross the 1st and 2nd pair on the left = put up a pin at point 12 = enclose the pin = lay 5 pairs of bobbins aside on the left = take up 5 pairs on the right = put up a pin at point 13 = net pa.s.sings with the 5 pairs on the right = take up, in addition, the 6th pair on the left = hole ground with the 5th and 6th pair = put up a pin at point 14 = net pa.s.sings to point 15 with 5 pairs of bobbins = put up a pin at point 15 = net pa.s.sings with 6 pairs of bobbins = take up a 7th pair of bobbins in addition = hole ground with the 6th and 7th pair = put up a pin at point 16 = net pa.s.sings with 6 pairs of bobbins = put up a pin at point 17 = net pa.s.sings with 6 pairs of bobbins = put up a pin at point 18 and then repeat from the first point * on the left.

PILLOW LACE (figs. 800, 801, 802).--We here give as an example the same pattern of lace worked in two thicknesses of thread; fig. 801 in Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C No. 25[A], fig. 802 in Fil a pointer D.M.C No.

30[A], which is of course much thicker. As this pattern is especially suitable for tr.i.m.m.i.n.g household articles, made of unbleached linen, such for instance as table-covers, curtains and hangings of all kinds, we prefer it made in the thicker thread; even then it looks very well as a tr.i.m.m.i.n.g for articles of dress.

It is worked with 40 pairs of bobbins = hang them on one after the other in a row = put up a pin at point 1 = twisted linen pa.s.sing = work all the pairs to point 2 with linen pa.s.sing = put up the pin at the last pair = go back through 3 pairs with linen pa.s.sing = twist 2 pairs once = go back with linen pa.s.sing through all the pairs to point 3 = twist each pair separately = at point 4 twist the 2 pairs and put up the pin = twist the last pair twice and so on and coming back to point 5 = put up the pin = come back again to point 6 = return to point 7 = put up the pins at the two points.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 800. PATTERN FOR THE PILLOW LACE FIGS. 801 AND 802.]

Divide the 30 other pairs into twos = put up a pin between every set of two pairs = linen pa.s.sing. The ground is all worked alike: twist the pairs twice = linen pa.s.sing = put up the pins = linen pa.s.sing to points 6 and 7 = twist the threads in taking them through = make a plait, fig.

796, for the scallop point 8 = put up a pin at the point marked for the picot = pa.s.s the thread of the outside bobbin from right to left, round the pin, to form the picot = continue the plait to the next picot = put up a pin = form the picot = continue the plait to point 9 = connect the plait with the bobbins of points 9 and 7 = make 4 linen pa.s.sings with 3 pairs = continue the plait = carry the last pair to point 10 = twist the threads = make 1 linen pa.s.sing = put up a pin and enclose it = go on in this manner to point 12 = make the wheel, as in figs. 789 and 790, with 6 pairs of bobbins, hanging on 4 new pairs at point 12 = work with twisted linen pa.s.sing = twist the 4 pairs once and cross with linen pa.s.sing = take the last pair out from the middle to point 13, join it to the first pair of the scallop = make all the wheels before continuing the ground = then go back from point 13 to 14 = cross the pairs again = at point 12 twist 4 pairs = 2 twisted linen pa.s.sings right and left with the bobbins of points 14 and 15 = 1 twisted linen pa.s.sing = put up the pins and work all the spiders alike.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 801. PILLOW LACE.

MATERIAL: Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C No. 30.[A]]

PILLOW LACE INSERTION (figs. 803 and 804).--Hang on 12 pairs of bobbins.

Divide the bobbins and put 2 pairs at point 1 = put up a pin = twist once = 2 linen pa.s.sings = from point 2 to point 8 = 5 twisted linen pa.s.sings = add one pair of bobbins = put up a pin = add one pair of bobbins = put up a pin = lay one pair of bobbins aside = twist = 2 linen pa.s.sings = 5 twisted linen pa.s.sings to point 10 = 2 linen pa.s.sings = twist the 2 last pairs = go back with linen pa.s.sing through 2 pairs = join together with the two pairs and the first pair by means of a twisted st.i.tch = put up the pin = lozenge st.i.tch (for lozenge st.i.tch in which the lozenges or close leaves are made, you take 4 or 6 threads; in the execution it resembles the darning st.i.tch represented in figs. 646 and 647) to point 11 = twist at point 12 = take 2 pairs from point 10 = plait to point 13 = twist with the bobbins of point 1 = double pa.s.sing = plait on the right, twist on the left = put up the pin = tie up as described.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 802. PILLOW LACE.

MATERIAL: Fil a pointer D.M.C No. 30.[A]]

Take the second pair at points 13 and 15 = put up the pin = 2 twisted double pa.s.sings on the right = 2 linen pa.s.sings = twist the 2 latter = put up the pin = at point 16 lay one pair of bobbins aside = with simple pa.s.sing go back through 2 linen pa.s.sings = join the latter and the former with linen pa.s.sing = put up the pin at point 17 = lozenge st.i.tch with the bobbins of points 15 and 17 to point 18 = connect the same at point 11 = carry on the lozenge st.i.tch to points 19, 20 and 21 = put up a pin at each number and enclose with a linen pa.s.sing = with the first pair of bobbins of point 21, 2 linen pa.s.sings to the left and 2 twisted linen pa.s.sings, that is to say, crossing the threads = put up the pin at point 22.