Encyclopedia of Needlework Part 16

TWO-SIDED CROSS St.i.tCH, WORKED IN FOUR ROWS OF St.i.tCHES (figs. 293, 294, 295).--Straight lines of cross st.i.tch, alike on both sides, can be worked in two journeys to and fro. Working from left to right, begin by fastening in your thread, never with a knot, but by two or three little running st.i.tches, which are hidden afterwards by your first cross st.i.tch. Directing your needle to the right, pa.s.s it diagonally over a double cross of the warp and woof of the canvas, and so on to the end of the line.

Having reached the last st.i.tch, draw out your thread in the middle of it, make an auxiliary diagonal st.i.tch downwards to the right, bring the needle up in the middle of the last st.i.tch, take it thence, upwards to the left, across two threads, and begin the return journey, from right to left, crossing and thus completing the first row of st.i.tches. In the auxiliary st.i.tch with which you begin the backward journey, the thread lies double on both sides. Fig. 295 shows how to pa.s.s down to the next row.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 293. FIRST HALF OF THE FIRST JOURNEY AND AUXILIARY St.i.tCH FOR RETURNING.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 294. ONE JOURNEY AND FIRST HALF OF THE SECOND FINISHED, AND AUXILIARY St.i.tCH LEADING TO THE SECOND RETURN.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 295. THE TWO JOURNEYS TO AND FRO, COMPLETING ONE ROW OF CROSS St.i.tCH, BOTH SIDES ALIKE.]

TWO-SIDED MARKING St.i.tCH (figs. 296 and 297). The above mode of working two-sided cross st.i.tch cannot be applied to letters, or patterns in broken lines, which both consist chiefly of isolated st.i.tches. Figs.

296 and 297 explain the course of the st.i.tches in embroidery of this kind.

The working detail A, Fig. 296, indicates the spot for the thread to enter the stuff, and the position of the needle for the first and second st.i.tches; B, the first two st.i.tches completed, with an auxiliary st.i.tch to the right, the thread drawn out on the right, and the position of the needle for the fifth st.i.tch that completes the cross; G shows the completion of the st.i.tch begun at B and the position of the needle for a second st.i.tch to the right; D, one cross st.i.tch completed and another begun, immediately beneath A. In fig. 297, E shows how to work st.i.tches to the left; F, an auxiliary st.i.tch to reach an isolated cross st.i.tch on the right, G, auxiliary st.i.tches between two isolated cross st.i.tches, and H, a second and last auxiliary st.i.tch to complete the cross.

It requires both practice and care to do this two-sided marking st.i.tch, so as not to disfigure the stuff by superfluous st.i.tches.

[Ill.u.s.tration: A B C D FIG. 296. TWO-SIDED MARKING St.i.tCH. DIFFERENT POSITIONS OF THE NEEDLE.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: E F G H FIG. 297. TWO-SIDED MARKING St.i.tCH. DIFFERENT POSITIONS OF THE NEEDLE.]

CROSS St.i.tCH FORMING A SQUARE AT THE BACK (figs. 298 and 299).--Many of the alphabets we so admire in old samplers are worked in cross st.i.tch, that forms a square at the back. Each st.i.tch has to be finished off before another is begun; if you carefully examine figs. 298 and 299, which show severally the right and the wrong sides of the st.i.tch, you will find no difficulty in mastering it. Letter A, fig. 296, shows the entrance of the thread, the position of the needle for half the cross st.i.tch on the right side, and the second side of the square at the back, as shown in fig. 299, A. Letter B, fig. 298, shows the cross st.i.tch finished, and the position of the needle for the third side of the square on the wrong side, indicated by the same letter in fig. 299. C, in both figures, indicates a st.i.tch which is double on the right side, and on the wrong side forms the fourth side of the square, whilst letter D, explains how to continue the st.i.tches.

[Ill.u.s.tration: A B C D FIG. 298. RIGHT SIDE OF THE CROSS St.i.tCH, FORMING A SQUARE AT THE BACK.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: E F G H FIG. 299. SQUARE St.i.tCH FORMING THE BACK OF THE CROSS St.i.tCH.]

TWO-SIDED ITALIAN St.i.tCH (figs. 300, 301, 302, 303).--Two-sided Italian st.i.tch consists of cross st.i.tches, alike on both sides, divided from each other by horizontal and vertical st.i.tches. The upper and lower st.i.tches should all slope one way, as in plain cross st.i.tch.

Italian st.i.tch is worked in one journey, to and fro. Fig. 300 shows how to fasten in the thread, and place the needle for the first st.i.tch, from right to left; fig. 301, the position of the needle from left to right, to form the cross at the back, and the vertical st.i.tch to the left, on the right side; fig. 302, the position of the needle, for a two-sided horizontal st.i.tch at the bottom of the cross, where upon you proceed as in fig. 300. Fig. 303 explains the return of the thread, which completes the double crosses and the lines between.

The horizontal lines, not made on the first journey, are added on the way back. In conclusion, pa.s.s the needle back, horizontally, from left to right, to make the final st.i.tch over the cross, and then make the st.i.tch between, as shown in fig. 303. On a thin stuff, this st.i.tch produces an extremely pretty effect, resembling lattice-work, provided the thread be tightly drawn in the working.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 300. TWO-SIDED ITALIAN St.i.tCH. INTRODUCTION OF THE THREAD AND POSITION OF THE NEEDLE FOR THE FIRST St.i.tCH.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 301. TWO-SIDED ITALIAN St.i.tCH. POSITION OF THE NEEDLE FOR THE 2ND AND 3RD St.i.tCHES.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 302. TWO-SIDED ITALIAN St.i.tCH. POSITION OF THE NEEDLE FOR THE 4TH AND 5TH St.i.tCHES.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 303. TWO-SIDED ITALIAN St.i.tCH. RETURN JOURNEY, WHICH COMPLETES THE CROSS St.i.tCH.]

MONTENEGRIN CROSS St.i.tCH (figs. 304, 305, 306).--The Slavonic tribes of the southern districts of E. Europe, especially the Montenegrins, have a great partiality for this st.i.tch, which has been rarely noticed, hitherto, in books on needlework. The right side shows cross st.i.tches with a double thread underneath, and divided by vertical st.i.tches; the wrong side, regular cross st.i.tches, also divided by vertical st.i.tches.

Coa.r.s.e cotton should be used for this st.i.tch; it produces a richer effect and not only covers the stuff better, but also the underneath st.i.tch which in the Slavonic work, is entirely hidden by the cross st.i.tches.

Begin, as letter A indicates, with a long, slanting st.i.tch, across 4 and 8 threads, then, bringing your needle back from right to left, under four threads, draw it out, carry it over the first long st.i.tch, and insert it again from left to right, under the first four threads of the canvas. These four st.i.tches finished, proceed to the fifth and sixth, which as B shows, cross the first four, then repeat the first st.i.tch.

The threads that form the st.i.tches on the wrong side, should always be opposed to each other, that is, one cross should lean to the right, the other to the left, as shown in fig. 305. This variation in the inclination of the st.i.tches, which is regarded as a fault in plain cross st.i.tch, is indispensable here, and produces a charming effect on the wrong side.

[Ill.u.s.tration: A B FIG. 304. MONTENEGRIN CROSS St.i.tCH. 1ST, 2ND, 3RD, 4TH AND 5TH St.i.tCH AND TRANSVERSAL St.i.tCH]

[Ill.u.s.tration: A B FIG. 305. MONTENEGRIN CROSS St.i.tCH. POSITION OF THE St.i.tCHES ON THE WRONG SIDE.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 306. MONTENEGRIN CROSS St.i.tCH. A ROW OF St.i.tCHES FINISHED.]

PLAITED ALGERIAN St.i.tCH (fig. 307).--The distinguis.h.i.+ng feature of this st.i.tch is, that it only advances one thread at a time. It should be begun on an uneven number of threads, and like the Montenegrin st.i.tch, should be worked with coa.r.s.e cotton. The rows may touch, either at the top or at the bottom of the st.i.tch, so long as you keep to one plan throughout.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 307. PLAITED ALGERIAN St.i.tCH.]

TWO-SIDED SPANISH PLAITED St.i.tCH (figs. 308 and 309).--This st.i.tch has the advantage of being, not only very effective, but also very quickly executed. It is worked in two rows, forwards and backwards. All cross st.i.tch patterns can be worked in Spanish st.i.tch. The gaps, which are occasioned by the long st.i.tches, have to be filled in with short ones.

In itself, the st.i.tch consists of slanting st.i.tches, three threads a part, alike on both sides, and advances three threads at a time, as shown in figs. 308 and 309.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 308. TWO-SIDED PLAITED SPANISH St.i.tCH.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 309. TWO-SIDED PLAITED SPANISH St.i.tCH.]

TWO-SIDED LINE St.i.tCH (figs. 310 and 311).--Square st.i.tch, Holbein st.i.tch, line, or stroke st.i.tch, as it is sometimes called, and setting st.i.tch, are all worked on one principle. Though all these two-sided st.i.tches are related to each other, and by no means difficult of execution, those new to the work will find a little practice necessary, to make the st.i.tches follow in their proper order. Fig. 310 explains how the needle has to pa.s.s, alternately, step by step, over and under the threads of the stuff, and fig. 311, how the threads, left blank the first time, are covered on the way back. The great difficulty is how to place your first row of st.i.tches so as to ensure an unbroken course back. It is as well before setting out, to ascertain clearly the most direct course back, so that you may not come to a stand-still, or be obliged to make unnecessary st.i.tches on the wrong side. If you have to pa.s.s obliquely across the stuff, as in patterns figs. 326, 327, 328, 329, 331 and 333, proceed in the same way as though you were covering the straight threads of a fabric.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 310. TWO-SIDED LINE St.i.tCH. FORWARD ROW.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 311. TWO-SIDED LINE St.i.tCH. BACKWARD ROW.]

TWO-SIDED INSERTION (figs. 312, 313, 314, 315, 316, 317, 318).--We conclude this series of st.i.tches with a description of a pretty, two-sided insertion, suitable for joining stripes of work of different widths together. In pieces of old needlework, we often find handsome, coloured patterns, joined together by a piece of lace or some quite different kind of work. The insertion represented in fig. 317, is a very good subst.i.tute for either. Fig. 312 explains the first st.i.tch and the course of the second, from left to right, under 3 vertical and 3 horizontal threads; the 3rd st.i.tch to the left, over 6 vertical threads, and the beginning of the 4th st.i.tch. Fig. 313 shows the 4th st.i.tch completed, and the direction the 5th and 6th st.i.tches have to take; fig. 314, the 6th completed, and the position of the needle for the 7th and 8th; fig. 315, the 9th lower, horizontal st.i.tch, over 6 vertical threads, the 10th backward st.i.tch, and the position of the needle for the 11th and last st.i.tch. Fig. 317 represents a whole series of st.i.tches, and fig. 318, the back of the work, which though quite a different pattern, will combine very well with any two-sided embroidery.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 312. TWO-SIDED INSERTION. FIRST DETAIL.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 313. TWO-SIDED INSERTION. SECOND DETAIL.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 314. TWO-SIDED INSERTION. THIRD DETAIL.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 315. TWO-SIDED INSERTION. FOURTH DETAIL.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 316. TWO-SIDED INSERTION. FIFTH DETAIL.]

These insertions can be worked on any stuff, but the st.i.tches, must be done, both ways, on a number of threads, divisible by 3. Thus, the first st.i.tch may cover 6, 9, or 12 threads, but never 8, 10, 12 or 14.

[Transcriber's note: 12, here, appears to be an error in the original.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 317. TWO-SIDED INSERTION. ROW OF St.i.tCHES FINISHED.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 318. TWO-SIDED INSERTION, SHOWING THE BACK OF FIG.

317.]

GOTHIC BORDERS IN GOBELIN AND CROSS St.i.tCH (figs. 319 and 320).--We are indebted for both these pretty patterns, which are quite Gothic in their character, to a visit we paid to the national museum at Munich, where we discovered them amongst a heap of other old valuables, lying un-heeded in a remote corner. Their simple graceful outlines render them peculiarly suitable for the decoration of table-cloths, counterpanes, curtains, etc. All embroideries of this kind should be finished off with a deep fringe, made in the stuff itself, or knotted on to it or may be trimmed with a heavy thread lace, of a wide width, corresponding with the work in character.

The design may be worked either in one shade, as in fig. 319, or in two, as in fig. 320, where all the outside st.i.tches are worked in the darker shade of the given colours.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 319. GOTHIC BORDER IN CROSS St.i.tCH. MATERIALS: Coton a tricoter D.M.C Nos. 6 to 12, Coton a broder D.M.C Nos. 16 to 35, or Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 3 to 15.[A] COLOURS: Rouge-Turc 321, or two shades of Bleu-Indigo, 311 and 334, or two shades of Rouge-Grenat, 358 and 359 or two shades of Brun-Acajou, 300 and 402.[A]]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 320. GOTHIC BORDER IN CROSS St.i.tCH. MATERIALS: Coton a tricoter D.M.C Nos. 16 to 35. COLOURS: Bleu-Indigo 311 and 344, or Rouge-Cardinal 346 and Rouge-Geranium 335, or Gris-Tilleul 391 and 331.[A]]