What to See in England Part 23

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Photochrom Co., Ltd._

SHERBORNE ABBEY CHURCH.

It contains Norman work and some of the finest fan-vaulting in existence.]

NEWARK

=How to get there.=--Train from King's Cross. Great Northern Rly.

=Nearest Station.=--Newark.

=Distance from London.=--120 miles.

=Average Time.=--Varies between 2-1/2 to 3-1/4 hours.

1st 2nd 3rd =Fares.=--Single 17s. 6d. ... 10s.

Return 35s. 0d. ... 20s.

=Accommodation Obtainable.=--"The Ram Hotel," "Clinton Arms,"

"Saracen's Head," "White Hart," "Swan and Salmon," etc.

=Alternative Routes.=--Train from Euston, _via_ Market Harboro', L. and N.W. Railway. Train from St. Pancras, Midland Rly.

Newark-upon-Trent is believed by some antiquaries to have been built in Roman times; others state its origin to have been Saxon, but the first absolutely certain record of it is in the time of Edward the Confessor.

The castle, which was built in the reign of Stephen, stands on the bank of the river, and on that side is still tolerably perfect. Of the interior nothing remains except the foundations of a great hall, probably built in later times than the rest of the fortress. A flight of steps leads from the hall to the crypt beneath, which has loop-holes looking towards the river. The eastern wall has disappeared, but those remaining are fairly intact. The architecture of the castle varies, part being Norman, and other portions dating from before the Parliamentary War. The s.p.a.ce enclosed by the castle walls is now used for a bowling-green, and also as a large cattle-market.

During King John's reign the castle was besieged by the Barons, and John, coming to relieve them, was taken ill and died there in 1216.

During the reign of Henry III. the fortress, which had been taken from the See of Lincoln by Stephen, was restored, and remained ecclesiastical property until the reign of Edward VI.

In the time of Charles I. the castle sustained several sieges. It was at Newark that Charles I. was deserted by his nephews Rupert and Maurice, after his defeat at Naseby. The king withdrew to Oxford at the approach of the Scots and Parliamentary armies, and Newark was besieged by the Scots. After the king's surrender in 1646, Newark was delivered up by his orders, and the fortifications, which were 2-1/4 miles long, were destroyed by the Parliamentary troops.

Newark Parish Church is built chiefly in the Perpendicular style, but contains some traces of Norman work. In the town there are also the remains of a chapel of an ancient hospital of the Knights Templars, some walls of an Augustine priory, and a Gothic cross.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Photochrom Co., Ltd._

NEWARK CASTLE.

King John died here, and in the Parliamentary War the castle underwent several sieges.]

WELLS AND ITS CATHEDRAL

=How to get there.=--Train from Paddington. Great Western Railway.

=Nearest Station.=--Wells.

=Distance from London.=--120-3/4 miles.

=Average Time.=--Varies between 3-3/4 to 5-3/4 hours.

=Fares.=--_Via_ Chippenham and Westbury.

1st 2nd 3rd Single 20s. 0d. 12s. 6d. 10s. 0-1/2d.

Return 35s. 2d. 22s. 0d. 20s. 0d.

_Via_ Yatton--

Single 24s. 8d. 15s. 6d. 12s. 4d.

Return 41s. 0d. 27s. 0d. 24s. 8d.

=Accommodation Obtainable.=--"Swan Hotel," "Mitre Hotel,"

"Star Hotel," etc.

=Alternative Route.=--Train from Waterloo. L. and S.W. Railway.

Wells is essentially an ecclesiastical town. It has no history of its own, no great family has ever lived there, and it has no manufactures,--it has simply grown up round the cathedral. For these reasons the quiet little Somersets.h.i.+re town has preserved much of its antiquity and fascination. The presence of the natural wells, which still are to be found in the gardens of the Bishop's Palace, probably induced King Ina in 704 to found a college of secular canons. Here a monastery grew, and subsequently became a bishop's see. John de Villula transferred his seat to Bath in (_circa_) 1092, and in 1139 the t.i.tle was altered to Bishop of Bath and Wells. Wells is one of the smallest of the English cathedrals, and is in many ways the most beautiful. The clear s.p.a.ce in front emphasises the glorious way in which the three ma.s.sive towers harmonise with the ruins of the Bishop's Palace, the remains of the Vicar's Close, and the chapter-house. The present building was commenced in 1121, but Bishop Joceline of Wells (1206-1242) rebuilt it from the middle of the choir to the west end. The Early English work shows considerable differences to that in Salisbury and Ely Cathedrals, being carried out by a local school of masons, who show considerable originality in design. The glory of Wells is centred in its west front. The deep b.u.t.tresses on the towers cast shadows which only serve to show up the marvellous sculptured figures of saints and kings, which may represent a Te Deum in stone. The inside of the cathedral is remarkable for the inverted arches which were put in the chancel to support the towers. Bishop Beckington built the three arches to the close.

A charge of 6d. is made for admission to the choir of the cathedral.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _F. Frith & Co._

WELLS CATHEDRAL.

Commenced in 1121, but chiefly rebuilt between 1206 and 1242. It is one of the smallest cathedrals in England.]

STRATFORD-ON-AVON

THE BIRTHPLACE OF SHAKESPEARE

=How to get there.=--Train from Paddington. Great Western Railway.

=Nearest Station.=--Stratford-on-Avon.

=Distance from London.=--121-1/2 miles.

=Average Time.=--Varies between 3 to 4-3/4 hours.

1st 2nd 3rd =Fares.=--Single 16s. 0d. 10s. 6d. 8s. 5d.

Return 29s. 3d. 18s. 6d. 16s. 10d.

=Accommodation Obtainable.=--"Red Horse Hotel," "Shakespeare Hotel," "Golden Lion Hotel," "Red Lion," etc.

=Alternative Route.=--Train from Euston. L. and N.W. Railway.

Stratford-on-Avon, a picturesque town situated on the river Avon, in Warwicks.h.i.+re, is visited yearly by thousands of people desirous of seeing the birthplace of William Shakespeare. John Shakespeare, the father of William, bought the two half-timbered houses in Henley Street, where he practised his trade of wool-stapler, and it was in one of these houses that William Shakespeare was born in 1564. These houses are now practically in their original condition, although at one time the wool-shop was turned into an inn. The desk, said to have been used by Shakespeare when at school, is to be seen in the former wool-shop, now converted into a museum. The King Edward VI. Grammar School, to which Shakespeare went, occupies the first floor of the old Guildhall, built in the thirteenth century, but much altered in the fifteenth century. It was in this Guildhall that Shakespeare saw for the first time a theatrical performance given by travelling players. Close to the Guildhall is the site of New Place, which was bought by Shakespeare.

Only the foundations of this house remain, as in 1753 the owner, the Rev. Francis Gastrell, being angry at having to pay some rates, was not content with cutting down the famous mulberry tree planted by the poet, but caused the whole house to be razed and the materials sold.

The Church of Holy Trinity, most beautifully situated on the river Avon, is cruciform in plan. In the chancel is Shakespeare's grave, with the stone slab having the well-known lines:--

GOOD FREND, FOR IESVS SAKE FORBEARE, TO DIGG THE DUST ENCLOASED HEARE; BLESTE BE YE MAN YT SPARES THES STONES, AND CVRST BE HE YT MOVES MY BONES.

At Shottery, one mile from Stratford, is the half-timbered cottage where Anne Hathaway, the wife of Shakespeare, was born.