What to See in England Part 22

1st 2nd 3rd =Fares.=--Single 20s. 6d. ... 9s. 5-1/2d.

Return 31s. 10d. ... 18s. 11d.

=Accommodation Obtainable.=--Norwich--"Royal Family Hotel,"

"Maid's Head." Yarmouth--"Royal," "Queen's," etc. Cantley--"Red House Hotel." Brundall--"Yare Hotel."

=Alternative Route.=--To Norwich from King's Cross, Great Northern Railway. Train to Great Yarmouth, Lowestoft, Beccles, Cantley, Reedham, etc., from Liverpool Street, Great Eastern Railway.

The charm of the Norfolk Broads consists to a great extent in the fact that they present different scenery to almost any other county in England, although the salt marshes of Ess.e.x and Suffolk possess the family likeness obtaining throughout East Anglia. The Norfolk Broads occupy the stretch of country north of a line drawn between Norwich and Yarmouth, and both towns offer great advantages for getting into the Broad country. A "broad," it should be mentioned, is a local name for a shallow lake connected with others, and finally with the sea by such rivers as the Yare, the Bure, or Ant. These rivers and their various tributaries form excellent sailing grounds, for after tacking for some time in a rush-fringed river, one suddenly enjoys the contrast of a broad lagoon where there is plenty of s.p.a.ce to sail more freely.

The separate characteristics of the different broads give a choice of surroundings capable of satisfying every one. Oulton Broad, for instance, is generally to be found full of smart yachts, while Heigham forms a contrast in its solemn loneliness. Wroxham Broad is always bright with white sails going to or from Surlingham, Rockland, or Salhouse Broads. The last mentioned a beautiful piece of water, the quieter portions of its surface being generally thick with yellow iris and purple loosestrife and many other species of water herb. It is shaded by trees, and makes charming pictures from many points of view.

Crome, it is said, commenced a picture of this broad on the day of his death, and antic.i.p.ated that it would be his best work.

Irstead is another beautiful broad surrounded by feathery reeds and thick with rushes where kingfishers and wild duck are to be found. The ruins of St. Benet's Abbey are an interesting feature along the river Bure. Within the monastic walls a windmill has been built, and this too is now an old ruin, having lost its sails many years ago.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Photochrom Co., Ltd._

AMONG THE NORFOLK BROADS.

A typical scene on one of the rivers connecting the broads.]

NORWICH CATHEDRAL

=How to get there.=--Train from Liverpool Station _via_ Colchester.

Great Eastern Railway.

=Nearest Station.=--Norwich.

=Distance from London.=--114 miles.

=Average Time.=--Varies between 2-1/2 to 4-1/4 hours. Quickest train 2 hours 32 minutes.

1st 2nd 3rd =Fares.=--Single 20s. 6d. ... 9s. 5-1/2d.

Return 31s. 10d. ... 18s. 11d.

=Accommodation Obtainable.=--"Royal Family Hotel," "Maid's Head Hotel," "Bell Hotel," etc.

=Alternative Route.=--Train from King's Cross. Great Northern Rly.

The city of Norwich has a unique charm from its combination of the mediaeval with the modern, and "improvements" so called have not spoilt it. The chief object of interest is the cathedral, which was founded in 1094 by Bishop Herbert Losinga, who was at one time prior at Fecamp in Normandy, and chaplain to William II. It is regarded as one of the greatest existing examples of Norman work, and has the finest cloisters in England. It is 411 feet long and 191 feet broad at the transepts, and is crowned with a spire second only to that of Salisbury. Near the cathedral are a number of ancient and interesting structures more or less in ruins. Chief of these may be mentioned St. Ethelbert's and the Erpingham Gate, by the west front of the cathedral, the former in Decorated English, the latter in Late Perpendicular, and both are valuable and rich specimens of these styles. It was Sir Thomas Erpingham whom Henry V. in Shakespeare's play addresses as "Good old Knight," and it was he who gave the signal to the English at the Battle of Agincourt, saying, as he threw up his truncheon, "Now, strike!"

Norwich occupies a place in history from the time of the earlier Danish invasions. First its castle was erected as a stronghold by the East Anglican kings, and resorted to as a place of safety by the inhabitants, who gave it the name of North-wic, or northern station or town. The bishopric of the East Angles was removed hither in 1094, when the magnificent cathedral was founded. Evelyn in his _Diary_ gives an account of a visit he paid to that famous scholar and physician, Dr.

Thomas Browne, author of the _Religio Medici_ and _Vulgar Errors_, then living in Norwich. It is a pleasant picture of the fine old cathedral town which he gives. After seeing all the rare curiosities in Sir Thomas Browne's house, he was shown all the remarkable places of the city, and speaks of the "venerable cathedrall, the stately churches, and the cleannesse of the streetes."

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Photochrom Co., Ltd._

NORWICH CATHEDRAL.

It was founded in 1094, and is considered one of the finest examples of Norman architecture.]

LICHFIELD

THE BIRTHPLACE OF DR. JOHNSON

=How to get there.=--Train from Euston. L. and N.W. Railway.

=Nearest Station.=--Lichfield.

=Distance from London.=--118 miles.

=Average Time.=--Varies between 2 to 3-3/4 hours.

1st 2nd 3rd =Fares.=--Single 16s. 9d. 10s. 9d. 9s. 8-1/2d.

Return 33s. 6d. 21s. 5d. 19s. 5d.

=Accommodation Obtainable.=--"Swan Hotel," "George Hotel," etc.

Lichfield, though an ancient town, has now a modern appearance, but is interesting on account of its beautiful cathedral and its a.s.sociation with Dr. Johnson. The house where the "great lexicographer" was born is still to be seen in the market-place, very little altered from its original condition. Next to this house is the Three Crowns Inn, where Dr. Johnson and Boswell stayed when they visited Lichfield in 1776.

Among the few old houses that are remaining are St. John's Hospital, rebuilt in 1495, and the Friary, part of an establishment of Grey Friars, now forming a portion of a private house.

Lichfield has been a bishop's see since Anglo-Saxon times, and among its earliest bishops was St. Chad, who advanced Christianity in England. For a short period Lichfield boasted an archbishop, during the reign of Offa, king of Mercia, who persuaded the Pope to grant his kingdom this honour. No trace of any Anglo-Saxon building is left, and of the Norman church that was next erected only the west part of the choir remains.

The present cathedral, built in the Early English style of Gothic, was commenced about 1200, and was not finished until 1325, builders being employed all the time. Though numbered among the smaller cathedrals, Lichfield is very beautiful, possessing a great charm in the ruddiness of the stone used in its construction. Its most striking features are the three graceful spires, the sculptured west front, and the large Lady Chapel. Owing, unfortunately, to its being fortified, the cathedral suffered much damage when besieged by the Roundheads during the Civil War. Windows and statues were broken, bra.s.s stripped from the tombs, registers burned, but the worst calamity was the destruction of the central tower. After the Restoration the cathedral was carefully repaired, greatly due to the efforts of good Bishop Hacket, who spent his time and money upon the work. The central spire was rebuilt by Sir Christopher Wren.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Photochrom Co., Ltd._

LICHFIELD CATHEDRAL.

Showing the richly-sculptured west front, and the central tower rebuilt by Sir Christopher Wren.]

SHERBORNE AND ITS ABBEY CHURCH

=How to get there.=--Train from Waterloo, _via_ Salisbury. L. and S.W. Railway.

=Nearest Station.=--Sherborne.

=Distance from London.=--118 miles.

=Average Time.=--Varies between 3-1/4 to 6 hours.

1st 2nd 3rd =Fares.=--Single 19s. 8d. 12s. 4d. 9s. 10d.

Return 34s. 6d. 21s. 6d. 19s. 8d.

=Accommodation Obtainable.=--"Digby Hotel," "Antelope," "Half Moon," etc.

Sherborne is full of archaeological interest, for besides its wonderful Abbey Church, it has the ruins of its castle on a rocky height at the east end of the town and a good number of ancient houses. The town itself is situated on the side of a hill sloping down to the Yeo, and has a clean and quaint aspect. About 705, it was chosen as the seat of a bishopric. The see was removed to Old Sarum in 1078, but the castle continued to be used as an episcopal residence until it was besieged by Stephen, when it became Crown property. The Abbey Church of St. Mary the Virgin is Norman in origin, but it has been so rebuilt and remodelled that it is now practically Perpendicular. The whole church, with the exception of the Lady Chapel, was very carefully restored between 1848 and 1851.

Adjoining the Abbey Church, at the west end, are the remains of the parochial church of Alhalows, a three-aisled church in Decorated or Early Perpendicular style. The monks and the paris.h.i.+oners had many quarrels, one resulting in a fire which destroyed much of the abbey. The Abbey Church was granted by Henry VIII. to Sir John Horsley, who sold it to the parish for 250. There being no further use for Alhalows Church, it was taken down.

The exterior of Sherborne Church has been called unpicturesque, owing to its low central tower and insignificant pinnacles. It is, however, a huge building, and its interior is so richly decorated that it more resembles a cathedral than a parish church. It possesses the finest fan-vault in existence, covered with gilded bosses and heraldic arms.

Contrasting with this wonderful richness of decoration are three plain Norman arches.

The nave is divided into five bays by panelled arches, the irregular widths of which are due to the fact that the Norman arches are cased in with Perpendicular work. The south transept has a wonderful roof of black Irish oak.