Twixt France and Spain Part 22

Lac d'Artouste.--10 hours up and down; a viper region.

Pic d'Arriel.--10 hours up and down; an exceedingly fine view from summit, but not an easy climb.

Le Balatous--14 hours. For ascension only, it is necessary to have good guides (at least two), as well as provisions, and to pa.s.s the night on the mountain in the Cabanes near the Lac d'Artouste. A difficult excursion, not unattended with considerable danger.

FONTARABIE (Fuenterabia, Sp.). A quaint old Spanish town on the left bank of the Bida.s.soa, just across the frontier, well worthy of a visit. About equidistant from the stations of Hendaye (Fr.) and Irun (Sp.) on the direct line from Bordeaux to Madrid. A pleasant excursion from Biarritz.

GABAS.--A village in the Ba.s.ses-Pyrenees, 5 miles from Eaux Chaudes, near the famous plateau of the Bious-Artigues. Inn accommodation can be had, and it is a good starting-point for several excursions.

GAN.--A village in the Val d'Ossau in the Ba.s.ses-Pyrenees, 5 miles from Pau. The road from Pau forks here, one branch leading to Oloron (15-1/2 miles), the other to Eaux Bonnes and Eaux Chaudes (22-1/2 miles). There are some mosaics under a shed in the vicinity.

Hotel (such as it is), Des Voyageurs.

GAVARNIE (4380 ft.). An unpretentious village with good hotel accommodation, situated among some of the most magnificent scenery in the Hautes-Pyrenees, 13 miles from Luz. For full description of the Cirque of Gavarnie refer to Chapter VIII., also for the Falls of Marbore, 1380 ft.

Hotels.--Des Voyageurs;|| De la Cascade.

There are several Mountains to be ascended in the neighbourhood requiring experienced guides; among which are Le Pimene, the Breche de Roland, Le Taillon, Le Gabietou, Le Marbore, Pic d'Astazou, and the Mont Perdu; but for further information the traveller is referred to the previously recommended authorities.

No Guides have a better reputation than those of Gavarnie, and of these Henri Pa.s.set and Celestin Pa.s.set have made all the great ascents of the French and Spanish Pyrenees; Pierre Pujo, Pierre Brioul, Poc, and Haurine are also men of experience in mountaineering.

[Ill.u.s.tration: CIRQUE OF THE VALLeE DU LYS NEAR BAGNeRES-DE LUCHON.]

Horses to the Cirque, 2 frs. each. Guides, 2 frs. each.

a.s.ses, 1 1/2 fr. each.

GAZOST-les-Bains.--A village in the Vallee du Nez, 7 1/3 miles from Lugagnan (the nearest station), on the line between Pierrefitte and Lourdes, in the Ba.s.ses-Pyrenees. The baths, fed by four cold sulphurous springs, are less than 3/4 of a mile from the village, where there is a large sawmill. Very few people visit the baths, and they are in a miserable state. There are copper, zinc, and argentiferous lead mines in the neighbourhood.

Rooms at the Chalet de la Scieric.

GeDRE (3214 ft.).--A poor village in lovely scenery (see engraving, page 122), on the side of a rocky gorge in the Hautes-Pyrenees, 8 miles from Luz and 4 from Gavarnie, on the direct road between the two.

Hotels.--Des Voyageurs, Pala.s.set.

For information on the so-called Grotte de Gedre see Chapter VIII. The two chief excursions from Gedre are those to the Vallee de Heas and the Cirque de Troumouse, though they may be considered as one trip here. From Gedre to the chapel of Heas 2 to 2 1/2 hours, from the chapel to the fork of the road 1/2 hour, and from thence to the Cirque 1 hour. This is a very fine excursion, occasionally undertaken from Luz and St. Sauveur.

GERDE.--A village in the Campan valley, in the Hautes-Pyrenees, near Bigorre. Known chiefly for the _palomieres_ or pigeon traps among the trees above it. See Chapter II.

GRIPP (3448 ft.).--A well-situated village in the Hautes-Pyrenees, on the Route Thermale, between Bigorre and Bareges, 2 1/2 miles from Ste. Marie. Tourists often find the Hotel des Voyageurs comfortable enough to keep them there for a few days. A little beyond the village on the old road are the Baths of Bagnet, supplied by a cold sulphurous spring; they do not, however, call for much mention.

The Falls of Garet are in the immediate vicinity.

GRUST.--A small village in the Hautes-Pyrenees. Refer to Sazos in Appendix.

GUeTARY.--A Basque village in the Ba.s.ses-Pyrenees, 3 miles from Biarritz. The railway station, Bidart-Guetary, on the line between Bordeaux and Madrid, is not far from the village.

HeAS.--A hamlet in the Hautes-Pyrenees, five miles from Gedre and eight from Gavarnie, by the Pimene.

Inn.--De la Munia, kept by Victor Chappelle, hunter; besides whom, Jacques Canton and Francois Lavignolle, chamois-hunters, are excellent guides. Chief excursion to the Cirque de Troumouse. See Gedre.

HENDAYE.--The French frontier town on the Bay of Biscay in the Ba.s.ses-Pyrenees, known for the manufacture of a liqueur of the same name. French Custom-house; station on the line between Bordeaux and Madrid. Good beach and bathing. Boats can be hired to cross the Bida.s.soa to Fuenterabia, at about 2 frs. for 3 persons; for information concerning which see Chapter XIII.

Buffet at the station.

Money changed.

Hotels/.--De France, Du Commerce, Americani.

IRUN.--The Spanish frontier town and railway station on the direct line between Bordeaux and Spain. Spanish Customhouse.

Buffet at the station, also a money changer.

Hotels.--Echenique, De Arupe.

IZESTE.--A village in the Ba.s.ses-Pyrenees, near Louvie-Juzon and Arudy, on the road between Eaux Bonnes and Oloron.

JACA.--A fortified town of Spain on the banks of the Aragon, 521/2 miles from Oloron, on the direct route to Huesca, from which it is 571/2 miles distant.

LABa.s.seRE.--A village in the Hautes-Pyrenees, celebrated for its waters and slate quarries (refer to Bagneres de Bigorre). It is 11/2 hrs. distant from Bigorre; but its quarries take 1/2 hr. longer to reach, and the springs 1 hour after that. The celebrated water is bottled at the springs, but it is also sent in casks for use in Bagneres de Bigorre.

LAMOTHE.--A small village in the Landes, 25 miles from Bordeaux.

Junction for Arcachon, 10 miles distant.

LARUNS.--An important though tumble-down village in the Val d'Ossau, in the Ba.s.ses-Pyrenees, 31/4 miles from Eaux Bonnes and the same from Eaux Chaudes. The railway from Pau now extends to Laruns, 24 miles (see Chapter XII.), but the drive is more enjoyable, except on a dusty day. The picturesque costumes of the Ossau valley may still be seen occasionally at this village.

Hotels.--Des Touristes, Des Pyrenees. Living economical.

LESCAR.--An ancient and decaying town, 41/2 miles from Pau by rail. Several interesting ruins, &c., for which refer to Chapter I.

LOURDES.--A town in the Hautes-Pyrenees, and railway station on the direct line from Pau to Toulouse, and junction with the line to Pierrefitte. The great Roman Catholic Pilgrimage, having now quite eclipsed Betharram, much visited formerly as a shrine. The grotto where the Virgin is supposed to have appeared is by the riverside. An admirable panorama represents the scene at one of these imaginary apparitions of the Virgin--known as Notre Dame de Lourdes, and always represented in that connection with a blue sash. Five and twenty years and superst.i.tion have transformed Lourdes from a little village into a fair-sized town, overloaded with hotels, of which the traveller is advised to be wary, especially during the pilgrim season, when the beds are apt to have other occupants than the "weary traveller's form." The Hotel des Pyrenees may be trusted.

Hotels.--Des Pyrenees || (Mons. R. Lacrampe); Latapie; De la Grotte, De la Poste, De Paris, De l'Europe, De la Paix, D'Angleterre, &c.

Excellent Carriages on hire in the town and at the hotels.

Excursions to the Lac de Lourdes, &c.

LOURES (1445 ft.).--A village in the Hautes-Pyrenees, 17 1/2 miles from Luchon and 3 from St. Bertrand de Comminges (see Chapter XI.), for which it is the station on the railway between Luchon and Montrejeau, and carriages await trains.

Hotels.--Pyrenees, La.s.sus.

LOUVIE-JUZON.--A village in the Val d'Ossau, Ba.s.ses-Pyrenees, 16 miles from Pau, n. from Eaux Bonnes, and less than a mile from the ruins of the ancient castle of Geloz. There is a curious old church in the village, and the inn where the diligence daily halts is known as the Hotel des Pyrenees.

LOUVIE SOUBIBON.--A small village at the foot of a mountain worked for its slates, 4 miles from the above.

LUZ (2410 ft.).--A well-situated village in a fertile valley in the Hautes-Pyrenees, 6 1/4 miles from Pierrefitte, the terminus of the line to Lourdes, 1 1/4 from St. Sauveur, and 3 3/4 from Bareges. From the last-named it receives water for its new Bathing Establishment (see Bareges in Appendix).