Biba's Northern Italian Cooking Part 13

Variations This pork and ricotta roll has a modest appearance but a delicious taste. If you want to make it s.h.i.+ne, melt a few tablespoons of unsalted b.u.t.ter and when it foams, add 1 cup dry imported Marsala wine. Bring it to a boil and boil until it has a thick, caramelized consistency. Brush glaze over prosciutto, let it sit for a few minutes, then slice and serve.

Omit prosciutto and wrap roll tightly in foil and cook as instructed above.

PORK LOIN WITH GARLIC AND ROSEMARY.

Arista alla Fiorentina This Florentine dish goes back as far as the fifteenth century.

MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS 6 garlic cloves, finely chopped 6 garlic cloves, finely chopped Leaves from 6 sprigs fresh rosemary or 2 tablespoons dried rosemary Leaves from 6 sprigs fresh rosemary or 2 tablespoons dried rosemary Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 1 (3- to 3-pound) boneless pork loin roast 1 (3- to 3-pound) boneless pork loin roast 2 or 3 tablespoons olive oil 2 or 3 tablespoons olive oil

Preheat oven to 375F (190C). Combine garlic, rosemary, salt and pepper in a small bowl. With a thin knife, make 7 to 8 slits about inch deep in roast. Fill slits with half the garlic-rosemary mixture. Spread remaining mixture over meat. Put oil in a roasting pan. Place roast in pan and insert a meat thermometer.

Bake 2 to 2 hours or until roast reaches preferred doneness according to meat thermometer; baste roast frequently with its own juices. Place roast on a cutting board and cool 5 minutes. Slice roast and arrange on a warm platter. Serve immediately with a few tablespoons of the juices.

PORK LOIN BRAISED IN MILK.

Arrosto di Maiale al Latte Tender, juicy and delicate, this old Bolognese dish is a winner.

MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 (3- to 3-pound) boneless pork loin roast 1 (3- to 3-pound) boneless pork loin roast Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 2 cups milk 2 cups milk cup whipping cream cup whipping cream 2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese 2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Melt b.u.t.ter with oil in a large heavy ca.s.serole over medium heat.When b.u.t.ter foams, add pork. Brown pork on all sides. Season with salt and pepper. Stir in milk and bring to a boil. Partially cover ca.s.serole and reduce heat.

Cook pork 2 to 2 hours or until tender; baste pork several times during cooking. If sauce looks too dry during cooking, add a little more milk.

Place pork on a cutting board. Only 1 or 2 tablespoons of thick milky sauce should be left in ca.s.serole. If too much sauce remains, cook uncovered over high heat 10 to 15 minutes. Remove as much fat as possible from sauce. Add cream and Parmesan cheese to sauce. Stir with a wooden spoon over high heat to dissolve meat juices. Put sauce in a blender or food processor and process until smooth. Return sauce to ca.s.serole and simmer until sauce has a thick, creamy consistency, 1 to 2 minutes. Taste and adjust for seasoning. Slice pork and arrange on a large warm platter. Spoon sauce over pork. Serve immediately.

Variation Omit cream and Parmesan cheese. Cook pork uncovered during final 10 to 15 minutes over medium-high heat. Cook until all milk has evaporated and only brown particles remain in ca.s.serole.

PORK LOIN WITH MARSALA WINE.

Arrosto di Maiale al Marsala Add exciting color with Baked Tomatoes, page 180, and a green-vegetable salad.

MAKES 6 SERVINGS MAKES 6 SERVINGS 1 (2- to 3-pound) boneless pork loin roast 1 (2- to 3-pound) boneless pork loin roast Leaves from 3 sprigs fresh rosemary or 1 tablespoon dried rosemary Leaves from 3 sprigs fresh rosemary or 1 tablespoon dried rosemary 2 garlic cloves, chopped 2 garlic cloves, chopped 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoons olive oil Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 1 cup dry white wine 1 cup dry white wine cup dry Marsala wine or sherry cup dry Marsala wine or sherry cup whipping cream cup whipping cream

Rub pork with rosemary and garlic. Melt b.u.t.ter with oil in a large heavy ca.s.serole over medium heat. When b.u.t.ter foams, add pork. Brown meat on all sides. Add salt and pepper. Add cup of the white wine. Deglaze ca.s.serole by stirring to dissolve meat juices attached to bottom of ca.s.serole. Partially cover ca.s.serole and reduce heat. Cook pork 2 hours or until tender; baste pork several times during cooking. If sauce looks too dry, add remaining wine.

Place pork on a cutting board. Remove as much fat as possible from pan juices. Add Marsala or sherry and cream to pan juices. Stir over high heat until sauce has a medium-thick consistency. Taste and adjust for seasoning. Slice pork and arrange on a warm platter. Spoon sauce over pork. Serve immediately.

LITTLE PORK BUNDLES.

Involtini Scappati Pork tenderloin makes a tasty dish for family or company.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS MAKES 4 SERVINGS 8 slices pork tenderloin, cut 8 slices pork tenderloin, cut inch thick inch thick pound pancetta, page 4, cut into 8 slices pound pancetta, page 4, cut into 8 slices 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 tablespoon olive oil 2 or 3 fresh or dried bay leaves 2 or 3 fresh or dried bay leaves Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 1 cup dry white wine 1 cup dry white wine

Remove excess fat from pork. Place slices between 2 pieces of waxed paper and pound until thin. When pounding pork do not use a straight up-and-down movement. Use a sliding action so meat is stretched more than flattened. Place 1 slice pancetta over each slice of pork. Roll up pork and secure each roll with 1 or 2 wooden picks.

Melt b.u.t.ter with oil in a medium skillet over medium heat.When b.u.t.ter foams, add pork bundles and bay leaves. Cook meat until golden brown on all sides. Season with salt and pepper. Add wine. Cook uncovered 10 to 12 minutes or until wine is almost all evaporated; only 1 or 2 tablespoons of thickened wine sauce should remain in skillet. Place pork bundles on a warm platter. Spoon sauce over pork. Serve immediately.

Variation Subst.i.tute veal scaloppine for the pork.

STUFFED PORK CHOPS.

Costolette di Maiale con Prosciutto A rich, satisfying dish, the flavor will have your family and friends asking for more.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS MAKES 4 SERVINGS 4 pork chops, 1 inch thick 4 pork chops, 1 inch thick 2 ounces Italian fontina cheese or 4 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese 2 ounces Italian fontina cheese or 4 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese 4 slices (about 2 ounces) prosciutto, page 4 4 slices (about 2 ounces) prosciutto, page 4 2 eggs 2 eggs Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 1 cup dry unflavored bread crumbs 1 cup dry unflavored bread crumbs 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoons olive oil cup dry Marsala wine or sherry cup dry Marsala wine or sherry

Make a pocket in each chop by cutting a horizontal slit as far as the bone. Cut fontina cheese into small pieces. Fill each chop with 1 slice prosciutto and a few pieces of fontina cheese or 1 tablespoon Parmesan cheese. Secure each chop with 2 wooden picks. Beat eggs with salt and pepper in a medium bowl. Spread bread crumbs on aluminum foil. Dip chops in beaten eggs, then coat with bread crumbs. Press bread crumbs onto chops with the palms of your hands. Let coated chops stand 10 to 15 minutes.

Melt b.u.t.ter with oil in a large skillet over medium heat. When b.u.t.ter foams, add chops. Cook until chops have a golden-brown crust, 3 to 5 minutes on each side.

Add Marsala or sherry to skillet and stir well. Cover skillet and reduce heat. Simmer 20 to 25 minutes or until chops are tender. If sauce looks too dry, add a little more wine or water. Place chops on a warm platter. Spoon sauce over chops. Serve immediately.

PORK CHOPS IN WINE.

Costolette di Maiale al Vino Pork chops cooked this way are tender and flavorful MAKES 4 SERVINGS MAKES 4 SERVINGS 2 eggs 2 eggs Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 1 cup dry unflavored bread crumbs 1 cup dry unflavored bread crumbs 4 pork chops, 4 pork chops, inch thick inch thick 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 cup dry white wine 1 cup dry white wine

Beat eggs with salt and pepper in a medium bowl. Spread bread crumbs on aluminum foil. Dip chops in beaten eggs, then coat with bread crumbs. Press bread crumbs onto chops with the palms of your hands. Let coated chops stand 10 to 15 minutes.

Melt b.u.t.ter with oil in a medium skillet over medium heat.When b.u.t.ter foams, add chops. Cook until chops have a golden-brown crust, 3 to 5 minutes on each side.

Stir in wine. Cover skillet and reduce heat. Simmer 15 to 20 minutes or until wine is almost all evaporated and chops are tender.Add a little more wine if sauce is too dry. If too much wine remains after 15 minutes, uncover ca.s.serole for last 5 minutes of cooking. Place chops on a warm platter. Spoon sauce over chops. Serve immediately.

PORK CHOPS IN ONION SAUCE.

Costolette di Maiale alla Cipolla Onions become melt-in-your-mouth tender in this creamy sauce.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS MAKES 4 SERVINGS 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 5 medium onions, thinly sliced 5 medium onions, thinly sliced cup whipping cream cup whipping cream 1 teaspoon sugar 1 teaspoon sugar cup all-purpose flour cup all-purpose flour 4 pork chops, 4 pork chops, inch thick inch thick 3 tablespoons olive oil 3 tablespoons olive oil Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Melt b.u.t.ter in a large skillet over medium heat.When b.u.t.ter foams, add onions. Cover skillet and cook until onions are pale yellow. Stir in cream and sugar. Cook 2 minutes longer.

Spread flour on aluminum foil. Coat chops with flour. Heat oil in another skillet over medium heat. Cook until chops are golden brown, 3 to 5 minutes on each side.

Add chops to onion-cream mixture. Cover skillet and reduce heat. Simmer 15 to 20 minutes or until chops are tender. Season with salt and pepper. Place chops on a warm platter. Spoon sauce over chops. Serve immediately.

SAUSAGE WITH FRIGGIONE.

Salsiccia con Friggione This is ideal for a carefree Sunday lunch with friends.

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

Friggione, page 173 1 to 2 pounds sweet Italian sausages 1 to 2 pounds sweet Italian sausages 1 to 2 cups water 1 to 2 cups water

Prepare Friggione. Wash sausages. Puncture sausages in several places with a fork. Put sausages and water in a large skillet. Bring water to a boil. Cook 10 to 15 minutes over medium heat, turning sausages during cooking. By the end of cooking time water should have evaporated leaving sausages and some of their fat in skillet. Brown sausages on all sides. Add Friggione to skillet. Cook Friggione and sausages 5 to 8 minutes longer. Serve immediately.

SAUSAGE AND BEANS IN TOMATO SAUCE.

Salsicce e f.a.gioli in Umido This dish brings back memories of cold winter nights when simple food brought my family closer together.

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS 1 cups dried white kidney beans or other white beans 1 cups dried white kidney beans or other white beans 2 cups Plain Tomato Sauce, page 208 2 cups Plain Tomato Sauce, page 208 1 pounds sweet Italian sausages 1 pounds sweet Italian sausages 1 to 2 cups water 1 to 2 cups water Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 2 tablespoons chopped parsley 2 tablespoons chopped parsley 2 garlic cloves, chopped 2 garlic cloves, chopped

Place beans in a large bowl. Add enough cold water to cover beans. Soak overnight.

Prepare Plain Tomato Sauce. Rinse beans under cold running water. Place beans in a large saucepan. Add enough salted water to cover. Bring water to a boil. Reduce heat. Cover pan and simmer beans until tender but firm, 40 to 50 minutes.

Wash sausages. Puncture sausages in several places with a fork. Put 1 to 2 cups water and sausages in a large skillet. Bring water to a boil. Cook 10 to 15 minutes over medium heat, turning sausages during cooking. By the end of cooking time water should have evaporated leaving sausages and some of their fat in skillet. Add Plain Tomato Sauce to skillet. Season with salt and pepper. Add cooked beans. Simmer uncovered 5 minutes. Stir in parsley and garlic. Cook 5 minutes longer. Serve immediately.

BOILED COTECHINO SAUSAGE.

Cotechino Bollito This large pork sausage is a specialty of the Emilia-Romagna region. Serve hot with mashed potatoes.

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

1 (2- to 2 pound) cotechino sausage Place sausage in a large bowl. Cover with cold water and soak overnight.

Puncture sausage skin in several places with a fork. Place in a large saucepan. Cover with water. Bring water to a boil. Reduce heat and cover pan. Simmer sausage 1 to 2 hours, depending on size. When ready to serve, remove sausage from liquid. Remove and discard skin. Cut sausage into slices.

CALF'S LIVER IN ONION SAUCE Piccata di Fegato alla Cipolla Fondente This dish is the creation of a remarkable Milanese restaurateur, Gualtiero Marchesi.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS MAKES 4 SERVINGS 1 pounds onions 1 pounds onions 1 pounds calf's liver 1 pounds calf's liver 6 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 6 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 2 cups dry white wine 2 cups dry white wine Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Chicken Broth, page 23, canned chicken broth or water, if needed Chicken Broth, page 23, canned chicken broth or water, if needed Fresh chervil or parsley Fresh chervil or parsley

Cut onions into very thin slices. Cut calf's liver into very thin slices. Remove membrane and veins.

Combine 3 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter, wine and sliced onions in a medium saucepan or ca.s.serole. Cook covered over low heat 30 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Onions should be moist and creamy. If sauce looks too dry, add a little chicken broth or water. If there is too much liquid, increase heat and cook uncovered 3 to 5 minutes.

Melt remaining b.u.t.ter in a large heavy skillet over high heat. When b.u.t.ter begins to turn brown, add sliced liver. Cook, l to 2 minutes on each side. Inside of liver should be pale pink.

Spoon onion sauce onto 4 warm serving plates. Arrange 2 or 3 slices of liver on top of sauce. Garnish each serving with chervil or parsley. Serve immediately.

Veal and Beef