Biba's Northern Italian Cooking Part 12

Prepare Chestnut Stuffing: Place chestnuts in a large bowl. Add enough water to cover and soak overnight. Rinse chestnuts, removing any skin still attached. Place in a medium saucepan. Add enough water to cover. Bring water to a boil, then reduce heat to medium. Cook chestnuts until tender, 30 to 40 minutes. Drain and set aside. Place prunes in a large bowl. Add enough water to cover and soak 30 minutes. Remove skin from sausage and break into small pieces. Put sausage and pancetta in a medium skillet. Saute over medium heat until sausage loses its raw color, 5 to 10 minutes. Place in a large bowl. Squeeze excess water from prunes. Chop prunes and chestnuts. Add to sausage mixture with walnuts. Peel and dice apples and pears. Add to sausage mixture. Season with salt and pepper. Stir in brandy.Taste and adjust for seasoning.

Preheat oven to 350F (175C). b.u.t.ter a large roasting pan.Wash and dry turkey thoroughly. Season with salt and pepper inside bird and outside. Stuff cavity at neck end of turkey. Close tightly using thread or skewers. Place turkey breast side up in b.u.t.tered roasting pan. Brush turkey with melted b.u.t.ter. Sprinkle rosemary and sage over turkey. Roast 20 to 25 minutes per pound, 3 to 3 hours. Baste several times during cooking with turkey juices or about cup white wine. If turkey becomes too brown, cover with aluminum foil.

Transfer turkey to a large cutting board and cool 5 minutes. Carve turkey and arrange on a large warm platter. Keep warm in oven while preparing sauce.

Remove as much fat as possible from pan juices. Place roasting pan over high heat. Add cup white wine or chicken broth. Deglaze pan by stirring to dissolve juices attached to bottom of pan. Boil sauce until reduced to a medium-thick consistency. Strain and place in a sauceboat. Serve turkey, stuffing and sauce hot.

TURKEY CROQUETTES.

Crocchette di Tacchino A marvelous way to transform leftover turkey into an inviting dish.

MAKES 6 SERVINGS MAKES 6 SERVINGS Basic White Sauce, page 205, made with 1 cup milk Basic White Sauce, page 205, made with 1 cup milk 3 to 4 cups chopped turkey 3 to 4 cups chopped turkey pound mortadella or boiled ham, finely chopped pound mortadella or boiled ham, finely chopped 1 egg, lightly beaten 1 egg, lightly beaten teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 1 to 2 cups dry unflavored bread crumbs 1 to 2 cups dry unflavored bread crumbs Oil for frying Oil for frying

Prepare Basic White Sauce; let cool to room temperature.

Place turkey and mortadella or boiled ham in a large bowl. Add egg, nutmeg, cup of the Parmesan cheese,White Sauce, salt and pepper. Mix thoroughly.

Combine remaining cup Parmesan cheese and bread crumbs in a small bowl. Spread on aluminum foil. Take a generous tablespoon of turkey mixture and form a small sausage shape. Roll in bread crumb mixture to coat. Press crumbs lightly onto croquette. Repeat until all mixture is used.

Pour oil 1 inch deep in a large skillet or saucepan. Heat oil until a 1-inch cube of bread turns golden brown almost immediately. Using a slotted spoon, lower a few croquettes at a time into hot oil. Turn croquettes. When golden on all sides, remove from oil with slotted spoon. Drain on paper towels. Arrange croquettes on a warm platter. Serve immediately.

Lamb, Pork and Variety Meats

Lamb in Italy is synonymous with Easter and spring because these are the times it is traditionally served. Italians like to eat lamb when it is three to four months old. At that age, lamb has a tender, delicate flavor and its meat is light pink.

In many other countries, lamb goes to market a little older, at seven to eight months. It is still good at that age with a darker and well-marbled meat. As lamb gets older it becomes mutton. A whole leg of lamb should weigh four to six pounds. If it exceeds nine pounds, you are probably buying mutton.

Lamb can provide some extremely elegant dishes. Rack of lamb roasted with a tasty bread crumb coating is a treat for eye and palate. Lamb chops dipped in eggs, then coated with a Parmesan cheese and bread crumb mixture, are unbelievably succulent. A whole leg of lamb braised in a tomato-based mixture prompted one of my students to claim that although he was born and raised on a ranch and had eaten lamb all his life, this was the best he had ever tasted.

Some less expensive cuts of lamb can give you equally delicious dishes. For skewered lamb, either the leg or the shoulder can be used. For stewed lamb, the shoulder is your best bet.

Italians eat a considerable amount of pork, mostly in the form of sausage and ham. There are many dishes in northern Italian cuisine in which pork is barely visible but is vital to flavor. Pancetta, for example, plays a subtle but important role in cooking. Prosciutto, a sweet and delicate unsmoked ham, is eaten alone or as a topping or stuffing for roasts or chops.

In Italy, we have stores called salumerie salumerie.These are pork butcher shops, almost delicatessens, where all pork products are sold. These are the showcases for an unbelievable array of sausages, salami and prosciutti among other items. Most of these products are preserved, salt and air-cured, then aged to perfection. Some are fresh like the famous cotechino. Cotechino is a large fresh sausage, a specialty of Emilia-Romagna. It is made from pork rind and shoulder, salt, pepper and nutmeg. Try fresh sausages, fried or braised and served with hot polenta, for an unbeatable combination.

Pork chops and pork roasts are a favorite of many regions. A beautiful pork loin roast cooked with a little Marsala wine becomes a delicious and elegant glazed dish. Braise a pork loin in milk and you will have a melt-in-your-mouth delicacy. Roast pork with a little fresh rosemary and garlic and discover an unbeatable combination.

Many Italians enjoy variety meats such as sweetbreads, brains and liver. When you cook Calf's Liver in Onion Sauce, you will taste one of Northern Italy's most celebrated liver dishes.

I learned to like calf's liver as a young child. My mother would say, "Tonight we'll have breaded chicken." Only when I was older did I realize that the strange-looking chicken was liver. By then it was too late because I had grown to like it.

Liver recipes can be cooked in a few minutes. This is one more advantage of the food of Italy. It is outstanding and yet so simple to prepare.

ROAST RACK OF LAMB.

Carre d'Agnello Arrosto Serve with Baked Onions, page 183, and fresh vegetables in season.

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS 2 racks of lamb 2 racks of lamb 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoons olive oil Leaves from 1 sprig fresh rosemary or 1 teaspoon dried rosemary Leaves from 1 sprig fresh rosemary or 1 teaspoon dried rosemary Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 2 tablespoons chopped parsley 2 tablespoons chopped parsley 3 garlic cloves, chopped 3 garlic cloves, chopped 1 tablespoon dry unflavored bread crumbs 1 tablespoon dry unflavored bread crumbs 1 tablespoon freshly grated Parmesan cheese 1 tablespoon freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Trim all fat from lamb. Preheat oven to 375F (190C). Brush lamb with 1 tablespoon of the oil and sprinkle with rosemary. Season with salt and pepper.

Put remaining 1 tablespoon oil in a roasting pan. Place lamb in pan. Bake 30 to 35 minutes to give medium-rare meat. Bake another 5 minutes for medium to well-done meat.

Combine parsley, garlic, bread crumbs and Parmesan cheese in a small bowl. Sprinkle top of lamb with bread crumb mixture and cook 5 minutes longer. Place meat on a warm platter. Serve individual chops by cutting down between the ribs.

LEG OF LAMB WITH BACON AND VEGETABLES.

Cosciotto d'Agnello alla Pancetta This is a good way to make a leg of lamb feed a crowd.

MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS 3 to 4 tablespoons olive oil 3 to 4 tablespoons olive oil 1 (4- to 5-pound) leg of lamb 1 (4- to 5-pound) leg of lamb Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste pound pancetta, page 4, cut into 4 slices and diced pound pancetta, page 4, cut into 4 slices and diced 1 medium onion, sliced 1 medium onion, sliced 2 carrots, finely chopped 2 carrots, finely chopped 1 celery stalk, finely chopped 1 celery stalk, finely chopped 1 cup dry white wine 1 cup dry white wine 1 (28-ounce) can crushed Italian-style or whole tomatoes 1 (28-ounce) can crushed Italian-style or whole tomatoes 3 tablespoons chopped parsley 3 tablespoons chopped parsley 2 garlic cloves, chopped 2 garlic cloves, chopped Water, if needed Water, if needed

Heat oil in a large heavy ca.s.serole. Season lamb with salt and pepper and place in ca.s.serole. Brown lamb on all sides over medium heat. Remove lamb from ca.s.serole. Add pancetta, onion, carrots and celery to ca.s.serole. Saute until lightly browned. Return lamb to ca.s.serole. Increase heat and add wine. Cook until wine is reduced by half. Stir in tomatoes and cover ca.s.serole.

Cook over medium-low heat 2 to 2 hours or until tender. Stir sauce frequently and use to baste lamb. Add parsley and garlic during last 5 minutes of cooking. If sauce becomes too thick, add a little water. Place lamb on a cutting board and cool 5 minutes. Keep sauce warm. Slice lamb and arrange on a warm platter. Taste and adjust sauce for seasoning, then spoon over meat. Serve immediately.

FRIED LAMB CHOPS.

Costolette di Agnello Fritte Use very young lamb for a succulent and delicate dish.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS MAKES 4 SERVINGS 8 single-rib lamb chops 8 single-rib lamb chops 2 eggs 2 eggs Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste cup all-purpose flour cup all-purpose flour cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese cup dry unflavored bread crumbs cup dry unflavored bread crumbs cup b.u.t.ter cup b.u.t.ter 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoons olive oil

Trim all fat from lamb chops. Beat eggs with salt and pepper in a medium bowl. Spread flour on aluminum foil. Combine Parmesan cheese and bread crumbs in a small bowl. Spread on a second piece of foil. Coat chops lightly with flour. Dip chops in beaten eggs, then coat with bread crumb mixture. Press mixture onto chops with the palms of your hands. Let coated chops stand 10 to 15 minutes.

Melt b.u.t.ter with oil in a large skillet. When b.u.t.ter foams, add chops. Cook over medium heat until meat has a light-golden crust, 2 to 3 minutes on each side. Drain chops on paper towels. Place chops on a warm platter. Season with salt. Serve immediately.

SKEWERED LAMB.

Agnellino allo Spiedo In Italy, tender young lamb is cooked on an open spit. Broiling also gives excellent results.

MAKES 8 SERVINGS MAKES 8 SERVINGS 1 (3- to 3-pound) leg of lamb 1 (3- to 3-pound) leg of lamb Marinade 4 to 5 cups dry white wine 4 to 5 cups dry white wine 2 sprigs fresh rosemary or 2 teaspoons dried rosemary 2 sprigs fresh rosemary or 2 teaspoons dried rosemary 5 fresh sage leaves or 1 teaspoon rubbed sage 5 fresh sage leaves or 1 teaspoon rubbed sage 3 garlic cloves, crushed 3 garlic cloves, crushed 4 to 5 fresh bay leaves or 1 teaspoon crushed dried bay leaves 4 to 5 fresh bay leaves or 1 teaspoon crushed dried bay leaves 1 medium onion, sliced 1 medium onion, sliced Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste pound pancetta, page 4, cut into 4 slices cup chopped parsley cup chopped parsley 4 garlic cloves, chopped 4 garlic cloves, chopped cup olive oil cup olive oil 2 medium onions, cut into large pieces, plus additional for brus.h.i.+ng 2 medium onions, cut into large pieces, plus additional for brus.h.i.+ng 3 tomatoes, quartered 3 tomatoes, quartered Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Trim all fat from lamb and cut in 2- to 2-inch cubes. Prepare Marinade: Combine all ingredients in a medium bowl. Combine meat and marinade in a large bowl; stir well. Cover and refrigerate overnight.

Preheat broiler or prepare barbecue. Cut pancetta into large pieces. Mix parsley, garlic and cup oil in a small bowl; set aside. Drain lamb and dry on paper towels. Alternate lamb on skewers with pancetta, onion pieces and tomato quarters. Brush with oil. Broil to preferred doneness, brus.h.i.+ng frequently with oil during cooking. A few minutes before removing meat from broiler, brush lamb with parsley-garlic mixture. Season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.

LAMB STEW BOLOGNA STYLE.

Spezzatino di Agnello alla Bolognese A loaf of bread and a bottle of red wine will add the perfect touch to this simple meal.

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS 1 (2- to 2-pound) boneless shoulder of lamb 1 (2- to 2-pound) boneless shoulder of lamb 1 cups canned crushed Italian-style or whole tomatoes 1 cups canned crushed Italian-style or whole tomatoes 3 tablespoons olive oil 3 tablespoons olive oil 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 2 garlic cloves, chopped 2 garlic cloves, chopped 2 or 3 sprigs fresh rosemary or 1 tablespoon dried rosemary 2 or 3 sprigs fresh rosemary or 1 tablespoon dried rosemary cup light, red wine cup light, red wine Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Trim all fat from lamb. Cut meat in 1- to 2-inch cubes.

Press tomatoes through a food mill or sieve to remove seeds (see page 207).

Heat oil in a medium skillet. Add lamb. Saute over medium heat until lamb is colored on all sides, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove lamb from skillet.

Discard all fat from skillet and add b.u.t.ter. When b.u.t.ter foams, add garlic and rosemary. Return lamb to skillet. Before garlic changes color, stir in wine and cook until wine is reduced by half. Add tomato pulp. Season with salt and pepper. Cook uncovered 25 to 30 minutes over medium heat, stirring occasionally. Serve hot.

ROASTED LEG OF LAMB WITH GARLIC AND ROSEMARY.

Arrosto di Agnello con Aglio e Rosmarino For medium-rare lamb, cook 12 to 13 minutes per pound.

MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS 1 (5- to 6-pound) leg of lamb, trimmed of all extra fat 1 (5- to 6-pound) leg of lamb, trimmed of all extra fat 4 to 5 tablespoons olive oil 4 to 5 tablespoons olive oil 3 garlic cloves, minced 3 garlic cloves, minced 2 to 3 rosemary sprigs, chopped, or 1 tablespoon dried rosemary, crumbled 2 to 3 rosemary sprigs, chopped, or 1 tablespoon dried rosemary, crumbled Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 1 cup dry white wine 1 cup dry white wine

Preheat oven to 400F (205C). Rinse lamb under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. Heat oil in a large heavy Dutch oven or roaster over medium-high heat. Add the lamb and brown it on all sides. Turn off the heat. As soon as you can handle the lamb, rub it on all sides with garlic and rosemary, and season it with salt and pepper.

Return lamb to pan and roast in the oven, uncovered, 1 to 1 hours depending on desired doneness; baste with the pan juices several times during cooking. If the meat sticks to pan during cooking, add a little of the white wine. Transfer the lamb to a cutting board and let it sit about 5 minutes before carving.

Meanwhile put the pan over high heat and add the wine.With a wooden spoon sc.r.a.pe and loosen up the bits and pieces attached to the bottom of pan. Cook until the wine is reduced by half. Carve the lamb into thin slices, spoon a bit of pan juices over the lamb and serve at once.

Variation About hour before you remove the lamb from the oven, add some peeled potatoes, cut into large chunks, to the pan and mix them well with the pan juices. Serve them alongside the roasted lamb.

PORK AND RICOTTA ROLL WRAPPED IN PROSCIUTTO.

Rifreddo Casalingo di Maiale e Ricotta Rifreddi or galantine are meat-based preparations that are shaped into loaves or into rolls, poached or roasted and served at room temperature with or without cubes of flavored gelatin. These dishes could be as elegant or as homey as one wished. This simple version was a favorite of my mother. are meat-based preparations that are shaped into loaves or into rolls, poached or roasted and served at room temperature with or without cubes of flavored gelatin. These dishes could be as elegant or as homey as one wished. This simple version was a favorite of my mother.

MAKES 6 SERVINGS MAKES 6 SERVINGS Broth Broth 1 small yellow onion, peeled and cut into wedges 1 small yellow onion, peeled and cut into wedges 2 carrots, cut into medium rounds 2 carrots, cut into medium rounds 2 celery stalks, cut into 2-inch pieces 2 celery stalks, cut into 2-inch pieces 2 sprigs fresh parsley 2 sprigs fresh parsley 1 cup dry white wine 1 cup dry white wine Pork and Ricotta Roll 1 pound ground pork 1 pound ground pork pound ricotta pound ricotta 1 to 2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf Italian parsley 1 to 2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf Italian parsley teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg 1 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese 1 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese 1 large egg, lightly beaten in a small bowl 1 large egg, lightly beaten in a small bowl Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 8 slices prosciutto, approximately 6 ounces 8 slices prosciutto, approximately 6 ounces

Prepare broth: Fill a large pan halfway with water. Add onion, carrots, celery, parsley and wine and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat and simmer liquid uncovered for about 30 minutes.

Prepare roll: In a large bowl or in bowl of a mixer fitted with flat paddle, combine pork, ricotta, parsley, nutmeg, Parmigiano and egg. Season with salt and pepper and mix with your hands or with paddle until ingredients are thoroughly combined. Place on a work surface, lightly wet your hands and roll mixture back and forth into a 10-inch long, 2- to 3-inch-thick roll.

Place a large sheet of foil that can be wrapped around roll comfortably on a work area, or overlap 2 regular sheets of foil to make a large one. Arrange prosciutto slices in center of foil. With 2 large spatulas, transfer meat roll over prosciutto.Wrap prosciutto around roll and tie with kitchen string.

Wrap foil securely around roll, making sure it is tightly sealed on all sides, and lower it gently into hot broth. Cover pan and simmer 50 minutes to 1 hour, making sure broth stays at a gentle simmer throughout cooking.

Using 2 large flat spatulas remove roll from pot and place on a cutting board. Cool slightly, then open foil and cool meat to room temperature. Discard foil and remove string. Cut roll into -inch-thick slices and arrange them slightly overlapping each other on a large serving platter. Serve at room temperature or slightly chilled.