A General History and Collection of Voyages and Travels Volume Vi Part 22

The 12th of April we set sail along sh.o.r.e, the wind being fresher, and more large, at E.S.E. About noon it blew very hard with such impetuous gusts that it drove the sands of the coast very high, raising them up to the heavens in vast whirls like great smokes. About evening when the barks draw together, the wind was entirely calm to some, while others a little behind or before, or more towards the land or the sea, had it still so violent that they could not carry sail, the distance between those becalmed and those having the wind very fresh, being often no more than a stones throw. Presently after, the wind would a.s.sail those before becalmed, while those that went very swift were left in a calm. Being all close together, this seemed as if done in sport. Some of these gales came from the E. and E.N.E. so hot and scorching that they seemed like flames of fire. The sand raised by these winds went sometimes one way and sometimes another; and we could sometimes see one cloud or pillar of sand driven in three or four different directions before it fell down.

These singular changes would not have been wonderful among hills; but were very singular where we were at such a distance from the coast. When these winds a.s.sailed us in this manner we were at a port named _Shaona_, or _Shawna_; and going on in this manner, sometimes hoisting and at other times striking our sails, sometimes laughing at what we saw, and other times in dread, we went on till near sunset, when we entered a port named _Gualibo_,[306] signifying in Arabic the port of trouble, having advanced this day and part of the former night about 13 leagues.

[Footnote 306: Perhaps _Kalabon_.--Astl.]

From _Gadenauhi_ to a port named _Shakara_ which is encompa.s.sed by a very red hill, the coast trends N.W. by N. and S.E. by S. the distance about 10 leagues; and from this red hill to a point about a league beyond _Gualibo_, the coast runs N.N.W. and S.S.E. distance about 6 leagues. In these 16 leagues, the coast is very clear, only that a league beyond the Red Hill there is a shoal half a large league from the land. In these 16 leagues there are many excellent ports, more numerous than I have ever seen in so short a s.p.a.ce. At one of these named _Shawna_, which is very large, the Moors and native inhabitants say there formerly stood a famous city of the gentiles, which I believe to have been that named _Nechesia_ by Ptolomy in his third book of Africa.

Along the sea there runs a long range of great hills very close together and doubling on each other, and far inland behind these great mountains are seen to rise above them. In this range there are two mountains larger than the rest, or even than any on the whole coast, one of which is black as though it had been burnt, and the other is yellow, and between them are great heaps of sand. From the black mountain inwards I saw an open field in which were many large and tall trees with spreading tops, being the first I had seen on the coast that seemed planted by man; for those a little beyond Ma.s.sua are of the kind pertaining to marshes on the borders of the sea or of rivers; as those at the port of _Sharm-al-Kiman_ and at the harbour of _Igidid_ are wild and pitiful, naked and dry, without boughs or fruit. These two mountains are about two leagues short of the port of _Sharm-al-Kiman_. _Gualibo_, which is 122 leagues beyond Swakem, is very like the port of _Sharm-al-Kiman_; except that the one is environed by many mountains, while the land round the other is an extensive plain. The entry to this port is between certain rocks or shoals on which the sea breaks with much force, but the entry is deep and large. After sunrise on the 13th we left the port of _Gualibo_, and as the wind was strong at N.W. making a heavy sea, we rowed along sh.o.r.e, and at ten in the morning went into a port named _Tuna_, a league and half beyond _Gualibo_. _Tuna_ is a small foul haven, beyond Swakem 123 leagues and a half, in lat. 25 30' N. The entrance is between rocks, and within it is so much enc.u.mbered with shoals and rocks that it is a small and sorry harbour; but round the point forming the north side of this harbour, there is a good haven and road-stead against the wind at N.W. the land round it being barren sand.

To the N.W. of this there are three sharp mountains of rock, as if to indicate the situation of the harbour. One hour before sunset we fastened ourselves to a shoal a league beyond _Tuna_. This coast, from a league beyond _Gualibo_, to another point a league and a half beyond this shoal, trends N.N.W. and S.S.E distance four leagues.

The 14th April we rowed along sh.o.r.e, the sea running very high so as to distress the rowers; but beating up against wind and sea till past noon, we came into a fine bay, in the bottom of which we came to anchor in an excellent haven. This day and night we went about 5 leagues, and were now about 129 leagues beyond Swakem. For these five leagues the coast extends N.W. and S.E. the land within the coast being in some places low and plain, while it is mountainous in others. By day-light on the 15th we were a league short of _Al Kossir_, which we reached an hour and half after sunrise, and cast anchor in the harbour. During the past night and the short part of this day we had advanced about seven leagues, the coast extending N.N.W. and S.S.E. According to Pliny, in the sixth book of his Natural History, and Ptolomy in his third book of Africa, this place of _Al Kossir_ was anciently named _Phioteras_[307].

All the land from hence to _Arsinoe_, at the northern extremity of the Red Sea, was anciently called _Enco_. This place is about 15 or 16 days journey from the nearest part of the Nile, directly west. This is the only port on all this coast to which provisions are brought from the land of Egypt, now called _Riffa_; and from this port of _Kossir_ all the towns on the coast of the Red Sea are provided. In old times, the town of _Kossir_ was built two leagues farther up the coast; but being found incommodious, especially as the harbour at that place was too small, it was removed to this place. To this day the ruins of old _Kossir_ are still visible, and there I believe was _Philoteras_. New _Kossir_ by observations twice verified is in lat. 2615' N. being 136 leagues beyond _Swakem_. The port is a large bay quite open to the eastern winds, which on this coast blow with great force. Right over against the town there are some small shoals on which the sea breaks, between which and the sh.o.r.e is the anchorage for frigates and s.h.i.+ps coming here for a loading. The town is very small and perhaps in the most miserable and barren spot in the world. The houses are more like hovels for cattle, some built of stone and clay, and others of sod, having no roofs except a few matts which defend the inhabitants from the sun, and from rain if any happen now and then to fall as it were by chance, as in this place it so seldom rains as to be looked upon as a wonder. In the whole neighbouring country on the coast, fields, mountains, or hills, there groweth no kind of herb, gra.s.s, tree, or bush; and nothing is to be seen but black scorched mountains and a number of bare hillocks, which environ the whole place from sea to sea, like an amphitheatre of barrenness and sterility, most melancholy to behold. Any flat ground there is, is a mere dry barren sand mixed with gravel. The port even is the worst I have seen on all this coast, and has no fish, though all the other ports and channels through which we came have abundance and variety. It has no kind of cattle; and the people are supplied from three wells near the town, the water of which differs very little from that of the sea.

[Footnote 307: In Purchas, Al Kossir is named Alcocer. Don John thinks this place to be the _Philoteras_ of Ptolomy; but Dr Poc.o.c.k places it 240' more to the north, making Kossir _Berenice_, which is highly probable, as it is still the port of _Kept_, anciently Coptos, or of _Kus_ near it, both on the Nile, as well as the nearest port to the Nile on all that coast, which _Berenice_ was. Dr Poc.o.c.k supposes old Kossir to have been _Myos Hormos_: but we rather believe it to have been Berenice.--Ast.]

The most experienced of the Moors had never heard of the name of Egypt[308], but call the whole land from _Al Kossir_ to Alexandria by the name of _Riffa_[309], which abounds in all kinds of victuals and provisions more than any other part of the world, together with great abundance of cattle, horses, and camels, there not being a single foot of waste land in the whole country. According to the information I received; their language and customs are entirely Arabic. The land, as I was told, is entirely plain, on which it never rains except for a wonder; but G.o.d hath provided a remedy by ordaining that the Nile should twice a year[310] overflow its natural bounds to water the fields. They said likewise that the Nile from opposite to _Al Kossir_, and far above that towards the bounds of Abyssinia, was navigable all the way to Alexandria; but having many islands and rocks, either it was necessary to have good pilots or to sail only by day. They told me likewise that the natives inhabited this barren spot of _Al Kossir_, as being the nearest harbour on the coast of the Red Sea to the Nile, whence provisions were transported; and that the inhabitants were satisfied with slight matts instead of roofs to their houses because not troubled with rain, and the matts were a sufficient protection from the sun: but made their walls of stone to defend themselves against the malignity and rapaciousness of the _Badwis_, a perverse people, void of all goodness, who often suddenly a.s.saulted the place in hope of plunder, and frequently pillaged the caravans coming across from the Nile with provisions and other commodities.

[Footnote 308: No wonder, as _Messr_ is the name by which Egypt is known to the Arabs.--E.]

[Footnote 309: More properly _Al Rif_, which name more particularly belongs to part of Lower Egypt.--Ast.]

[Footnote 310: This is erroneous, as the Nile only overflows once yearly.--E.]

The 18th of April we fastened ourselves to a shoal about four leagues past _Kossir_, and set sail from thence at noon. The 19th, about half an hour past eight o'clock, while proceeding with fine weather, we were suddenly taken aback by a fierce gust at N.N.W. which obliged us to take shelter in an island called _Suffange-al-bahar_[311] or _Saffanj-al-bahr_, losing 4 or 5 leagues of way that we had already advanced. The name given to this island means in the Arabic a _sea-sponge_. It is 13 leagues beyond _Al Kossir_, in lat. 27 N. being in length about two leagues by about a quarter in breadth, all of sand without trees or water. Its harbour is good in all weathers; but upon the main land the number of bays, ports, and harbours about this place are wonderful. The best channel here is between the island, and the main, along the coast of the continent, as on the side next the island there are some shoals. Likewise in the northern entry to this port there are other shoals which need not be feared in coming in by day, and in the southern entrance there is a large rock in the very middle. The 20th at sunset we were about six leagues beyond this island of Safanj-al-bahr. From which island to a sandy, point about 1-1/2 league beyond, the coast trends N.N.W. and S.S.E. and from this point forwards to the end of the six leagues, the coast winds inwards to landwards forming a large bay, within which are many islands, ports, creeks, bays, and notable harbours. The 21st by day we were fast to the sh.o.r.e of an island called Sheduam, and the wind being calm, we rowed along the coast of the island, which, opposite to Arabia or the east side, is high and craggy, all of hard rock, three leagues long and two broad. This island is 20 leagues beyond _Al Kossir_, having no water nor any trees. It is between the two coasts of Arabia and Egypt, being five leagues from either. Beyond it to the north-west are three small low islands with shoals among them. An hour after sunset, we were upon the north cape or point of this island, whence we crossed towards the Arabian coast[312], and having no wind we took to our oars. Within a little it began to blow fair from the S.E. and we set sail steering N.W. At eleven next morning, we were upon the coast of the Stony Arabia, and soon sailed along its sh.o.r.e, entering two hours before sunset into the port _Toro_ or _Al Tor_, which may be seen front the island of Sheduam, distant 12 leagues, bearing N. by W. and S. by E.

[Footnote 311: _Safanj-al-Bahr_. In Arabic _Safanj, Sofinj_ and _Isfanj_, all signify _Sponge_, which is obviously derived from the Arabic word.--Ast.]

[Footnote 312: Probably meaning that part of Arabia between the Gulf of Suez and the Bahr-akkaba, called the promontory of Tor, of which Cape Mahomed forms the S.W. extremity,--E.]

_Toro_ or _Al Tor_ was of old called _Elana_, as may be seen in the writings of Ptolomy, Strabo, and other ancient writers, although our observation of the lat.i.tude differs materially from theirs. But they shew that _Elana_ was situated in the most inward part of a very great gulf, called _Sinus Elaniticus_[313], from the name of this place _Elana_, and in lat. 2915' N. Now we know that _Toro_ is in lat. 2810'

N.[314] and lies upon a very long and straight coast. The cause of this great difference, if these places be the same, may have proceeded from erroneous information given to Ptolomy and the other ancient cosmographers. But that ancient _Elana_ and modern _Toro_ are the same, appears from this, that from thence to Suez both on the Arabian and Egyptian coasts of the Elanitic Gulf, not only is there no memorial or remains of any other ancient town, and the barrenness of the country, want of water, and rough craggy mountains, make it evident that in no other place could there be any habitation. Hence, considering that Ptolomy places Elana on the coast of _Arabia Petrea_, near adjoining to mount Sinai, and makes no mention of any town between it and the _City of Heroes_ on the upmost extremity of the Elanitic Gulf where the sea ends; and as on this sh.o.r.e of Arabia there is neither town, village, nor habitation, coming so near the position a.s.signed to _Elana_ as _Toro_, and as it is impossible to inhabit between _Toro_ and _Suez_, it seems just to conclude that _Toro_ and _Elana_ are the same place. The port of _Toro_ seems likewise that mentioned in holy writ under the name of _Ailan_, where Solomon, king of Israel, caused the s.h.i.+ps to be built which sailed to _Tarsis_ and _Ophir_ to bring gold and silver for the temple of Jerusalem: for taking away the second letter from _Ailan_, the ancient names are almost the same. Nor is it reasonable that it should be in any other place, as the timber for the navy of Solomon was brought from Lebanon and Anteliba.n.u.s; and to avoid expences they would necessarily carry it to the nearest port, especially as the Jews then possessed the region of Idumea, and that part of the coast of Arabia Petrea which is between Toro and Suez. Strabo holds that _Elana_ and _Ailan_ are the same city; and when treating of this city in another place, he says, that from the port of _Gaza_ it is 1260 furlongs to the city of Ailan, which is situated on the _inwardest_ part of the Arabic Gulf[315]; "and there are two, one towards Gaza and Arabia, called the Sinus Elaniticus, from the city Elana which stands upon it; the other on the Egyptian side towards the _City of Heroes_ and the way from _Pelusium_ to this gulf is very small." This is what I would pick out from ancient authors.

[Footnote 313: Don Juan entirely mistakes this point of antiquity, in consequence of not having learnt that there was another and eastern gulf at the head of the Red Sea; the _Bahr-akkaba_ or real _Sinus Elaniticus_, on which is the town of _Ayla_, a.s.suredly the ancient _Elana_ or _Aylan_.--E.]

[Footnote 314: If this observation be exact, the great promontory or peninsula between the gulfs at the head of the Red Sea must be extended too far south in the map constructed by Dr Poc.o.c.k.--Ast.]

[Footnote 315: Had Don Juan de Castro been acquainted with the eastern gulf at the head of the Red Sea, called the _Bahr-akkaba_, he would have more readily chosen _Ayla_ for the seat of _Ailan_, and the dock-yard of the navy of Solomon, being at the _inwardest_ part of the Red Sea, and the port nearest to Gaza. Besides, the portion of the text marked with inverted commas, seems a quotation by Don Juan from Strabo, which distinctly indicates the eastern or Elanitic Gulf, and points to _Ayla_ as the seat of Elana and _Ailan_, and distinctly marks the other or western gulf, now that of Suez.--E.]

"As this is a point of great moment in geography, it deserves to be examined[316]. It is observable that Don Juan admits that both Ptolemy and Strabo make the Red Sea terminate to the north in two large gulfs, one towards Egypt and the other towards Arabia, at the end of which latter they place _Elana_. Yet here he rejects the authority of both geographers, alleging that both were mistaken, because Tor is situated on a very long and straight coast. He likewise cites Ptolomy as making the lat.i.tude of Elana 2915' N.[317] yet accounts the difference between that position and the alt.i.tude found at Al Tor, 2010', as of no significance here, though in former instances he had held the tables of Ptolomy as infallible. It is still stranger that Don Juan should after all admit of a gulf of _Elana_, as will be seen presently, and yet place it at a great distance, and at the opposite side of the sea from that on which Elana stands. However this may be, it is certain that Don Juan, and not the ancients, has been misinformed on this matter; for not only the _Arab_ geographers give a particular account of this eastern gulf, as will appear from the description of the Red Sea by _Abulfeda_, but its existence has been proved, by two English travellers, Dr Shaw and Dr Poc.o.c.k. The errors which Don Juan has here fallen into, has been owing to not having examined the coast on the side of Arabia; for until the fleet came to the island of Sheduam, it had sailed entirely along the African sh.o.r.e; and then, leaving the north part of that island, it pa.s.sed over to the coast of Arabia[318] for the first time, where it may be presumed that they fell in with the land some way to the north of the S.W. point of the great peninsula between the two gulfs. This cape in the maps by De L'Isle and Dr Poc.o.c.k is called _Cape Mahomet_. Still however as the island of Sheduam seems to lie nearer the eastern gulf; its north end being at least eighteen or twenty miles to the southward of Cape Mahomet, it is surprising that Don Juan and the whole fleet should overlook that gulf, which indeed was done before by the Venetian who sailed along the Arabian sh.o.r.e in the fleet of Solyman Pacha. What Don Juan says about the ident.i.ty of _Elana_ and _Ailan_ or _Aylan_ we shall not contend about, as the authority of Strabo, and the similarity of names are strong proofs. But we shall presently see that the Arabs place _Aylan_ at the head of a great gulf; and the distance he cites from Strabo, 1260 stadia from Gaza to Aylan, supposing it to be exact, is a proof that _Aylan_ cannot be the same with _Toro_. We shall only observe farther, that the positive denial by Don Juan of there being any such gulf as the _Elanitic_ on the east or side of Arabia, may have been the reason why it was not laid down in the maps of _Sanson_, or by any geographer before _De L'Isle_."--Ast. I. 124. a.

[Footnote 316: This paragraph, marked by inverted commas, is a dissertation by the editor of Astleys Collection, too important to be omitted, and too long for a note.--E.]

[Footnote 317: The lat.i.tude of Ayla in modern maps is about 2910' N.

having a very near coincidence.--E.]

[Footnote 318: Properly speaking only to the Arabian coast of the Gulf of Suez, not at all to the Arabian coast of the Red Sea.--E.]

The city of _Toro_ or _Al Tor_ is built on the sea-side along an extensive and fair strand or beach, and about a cannon-shot before coming to it we saw twelve palm-trees close together very near the sea; and from these a plain field extends to the foot of some high hills.

These hills are part of a chain which extends from the straits of Ormuz or Persian Gulf, and which extend hither along the coast very high above the sea as far as Toro, where they leave the coast, "and with a great and sudden violence return from thence to the main towards the north-east, as angry and wearied by so long neighbourhood of the waters." _Arabia Petrea_ is divided by three mountains from _Arabia Felix,_ and on the highest tops of them some Christians lead holy and quiet lives. A little way beyond Toro, on the borders of the sea, a mountain begins to rise by little and little; and thrusting out a large high cape or promontory, seems to those in the town like three great and mighty separate mountains. This town of Tor is small but well situated, all its inhabitants being Christians who speak Arabic. It has a monastery of friars of the order of _Monserrat_, in which is the oracle or image of _Santa Catalina_ of Mount Sinai or St Catharine. These friars are all Greeks. The harbour of Toro is not large, but very secure, having opposite to the sh.o.r.e a long stony bank, between which and the sh.o.r.e is the harbour. At this place both the coasts of the gulf are only about three leagues distant.

Being desirous to learn some particulars concerning this country, I made myself acquainted with the friars, from whom I had the following information. They told me that Mount Sinai was _thirteen_ small days journey into the land, or about 18 leagues[319]. The mountain is very high, the country around being plain and open, having on its borders a great town inhabited by Christians, into which no Mahometan can enter except he who gathers the rents and duties belonging to the Turks. On the top of the mountain is a monastery having many friars, where the body of the blessed Virgin St Catharine lay buried. According to Anthony bishop of Florence, the body of this Holy Virgin was carried away by the angels from the city of Alexandria and buried on Mount Sinai. They told me farther that about four months before our arrival this most blessed and holy body was carried from the mountain with great pomp, on a triumphal chariot all gilt, to the city of Cairo, where the Christians of that city, which are the bulk of the inhabitants, came out to receive it in solemn procession, and set it with great honour in a monastery.

The cause of this strange removal was the many insults which the monastery on Mount Sinai suffered from the Arabs, from whom the friars and pilgrims had often to redeem themselves with money; of which the Christians of Cairo complained to the Turkish governor, and received permission to bring the blessed and holy body to their city, which was done accordingly, in spite of a strenuous opposition from the friars of Mount Sinai. I am somewhat doubtful of the truth of this transportation, suspecting that the friars may have trumped up this story lest we might have taken the holy body from them, as they expected us with an army of 10,000 men. Yet they affirmed it for truth, expressing great sorrow for the removal. These friars told me likewise that several hermits lead a solitary and holy life in these mountains over against the town; and that all through the Stony Arabia, there are many towns of Christians. I asked if they knew where the Jews had pa.s.sed the Red Sea; but they knew of no certain place, only that it must have been somewhere between _Toro_ and _Suez_. They said likewise, that on the Arabian coast of the Gulf, two or three leagues short of Suez, was the fountain which Moses caused to spring from the rock by striking it with his rod, being still called by the Arabs the fountain of Moses, the water of which is purer and more pleasant than any other. They said that from _Toro_ to _Cairo_ by land was seven ordinary days journey, in which the best and most direct way was through Suez: But that since the Turkish gallies came to Suez they had changed the road, going two leagues round to avoid Suez, after which they turned to the west.

[Footnote 319: Surely this pa.s.sage should be only _three_ short days journey.--E.]

I afterwards conversed with a very honest, learned and curious Mahometan, whom I asked if he could tell where the Jews crossed the Red Sea; on which he told me that both in tradition and in some old writings it was said that the Jews, fleeing from the Egyptians, arrived on the coast of Egypt directly opposite to _Toro_, where Moses prayed to G.o.d for deliverance, and struck the sea twelve times with his rod, on which it opened in twelve several paths, by which the Jews pa.s.sed over to the other side to where _Toro_ now stands; after which the Egyptians entering into these paths were all destroyed to the number of about 600,000 men. That from _Toro_ Moses led the Israelites to Mount Sinai, where Moses spake many times with G.o.d. I approved much of this opinion; for if the pa.s.sage had been at Suez, as some insist, the Egyptians had no occasion to have entered into the sea for persecuting the Jews, as they could have gone round the bay and got before them, more especially as they were hors.e.m.e.n and the Jews all on foot. For though all these things came about by a miracle, we see always on like occasions there is a shew and manner of reason. I asked of this Moor if it were true that the Christians of Cairo had carried away the body of St Catharine from Mount Sinai; but he said he had never heard of it, neither did he believe the story; and that only four months before he had been in Cairo, which city they call _Mecara_[320], where he heard of no such thing. He thought likewise that the Christians about Mount Sinai would never have permitted such a thing, as they all considered that woman as a saint, and held her body in great reverence. He told me also that two or three leagues before coming to _Suez_ there is a fountain which was given to the Jews at the intercession of Moses, whom they call _Muzau_, the water of which surpa.s.ses all others in goodness. On inquiring what kind of a place was the town of _Suez_, he said he had never been there, as no person could enter that town except those appointed by the governor of Cairo for taking care of the gallies, nor come nearer than two leagues under pain of death.

[Footnote 320: Mecara, perhaps by mistake for Mecara or Mezara, which is very near Mesr as it is called by the Turks. Cairo is an Italian corruption of Kahera or al Kahira--Astl.]

SECTION VIII.

_Continuation of the Voyage from Taro or al Tor to Suez._

We set sail the day after our arrival at Toro, being the 23d of April 1541, and on the 24th we were in the lat. of 27 17' N. At this place, which is 20 leagues beyond Toro and 52 leagues from _al Kossir_, the land of Egypt, or that coast of the Red Sea which continueth all the way from Abyssinia, comes out into the sea with a very long and low point, which winds a great way inwards to the land and more crooked than any other I have seen. After forming a large fine bay, it juts out into a large high cape or point, which is three short leagues from _Suez_, at the other extremity of this bay, and from that first promontory to _Suez_ the land bears N.W. by N. and S.E. by S. The sh.o.r.e of this bay is very high and rough, and at the same time entirely parched and barren.

The whole of this large bay, except very near the sh.o.r.e, is so deep that we had no ground with fifty fathom, and the bottom is a soft sand lake ouze. This bay I hold to have been undoubtedly the _Sinus Elaniticus_ of the ancients, though Strabo and Ptolemy, being both deceived in regard to its situation, placed it on the coast of Stony Arabia at _Toro_.

This I mentioned before, when describing _Toro_, that Strabo says the Arabian Gulf ends in two bays, one called _Elaniticus_ on the Arabian side, and the other on the Egyptian side where stands the _City of Heroes_[321]. Ptolemy evidently fixes the _elanitic sinus_ on the coast of Arabia, where Toro now stands; which is very wonderful, considering that Ptolemy Was born in Alexandria, where he wrote his Cosmography and resided all his life, and which city is so very near these places.

[Footnote 321: No description can be more explicit: but Don John unfortunately knew not of the eastern _sinus_, and found himself constrained to find both _sinuses_ in one gulf.--E.]

The 26th of April we set sail, and at eleven o'clock we lowered our sails, rowing along sh.o.r.e, where we cast anchor. Two hours before sunset we weighed again with the wind at north and rowed along sh.o.r.e; and before the sun set we anch.o.r.ed behind a point of land on the Arabian sh.o.r.e, which sheltered us effectually from the north wind, having advanced only a league and a half this day. This point is three _small_ leagues short of _Suez_, and is directly east of the N.W. point of the Great Gulf, distance about a league. From this point, about half a league inland, is the fountain of Moses already mentioned. As soon as we had cast anchor we went on sh.o.r.e, whence we saw the end of this sea, which we had hitherto thought without end, and could plainly see the masts of the Turkish s.h.i.+ps. All this gave us much satisfaction, yet mixed with much anxiety. As the wind blew hard all night from the north, we remained at anchor behind the point till day.

On the morning of the 27th, the wind blowing hard at N.N.W. we remained at anchor till ten, when we departed from the point and made for Suez with our oars. When about a league from the end of the sea, I went before with two _catures_ to examine the situation of Suez and to look out for a proper landing-place. We got close up to Suez about three o'clock in the afternoon, where we saw many troops of horse in the field, and two great bands of foot-soldiers in the town, who made many shots at us from a blockhouse. The Turkish navy at this place consisted of forty-one large gallies, and nine great s.h.i.+ps. Having completed the examination, and returned to our fleet, we all went to the point of land to the west of the bay, and came to anchor near the sh.o.r.e in five fathoms water, in an excellent harbour, the bottom a fine soft sand.

It is certain that in ancient times Suez was called the _City of Heroes_, for it differs in nothing as to lat.i.tude situation and bearings from what is said in Ptolomy, Table III. of Africa. More especially as Suez is seated on the uttermost coast of the nook or bay where the sea of Mecca ends, on which the City of Heroes was situated, as Strabo writes in his XVII book thus: "The city of _Heroes_, or of _Cleopatra_, by some called _Arsinoe_, is in the uttermost bounds of the _Sinus Arabicus_, which is towards Egypt.". Pliny, in the VI. book of his Natural History, seems to call the port of Suez _Danao_, on account of the trench or ca.n.a.l opened between the Nile and the Red Sea. The lat.i.tude of Suez is 29 45' N. being the nearest town and port of the Red Sea to the great city of Cairo, called anciently _Babylon_ of Egypt.

From Suez to the _Levant Sea_ or Mediterranean, at that mouth of one of the seven branches of the Nile which is called _Pelusium_, is about 40 leagues by land, which s.p.a.ce is called the _isthmus_, or narrow neck of land between the two seas. On this subject Strabo writes in his XVII.

book, "The isthmus between Pelusium and the extreme point of the Arabian Gulf where stands the _City of Heroes_, is 900 stadia." This is the port of the Red Sea to which Cleopatra Queen of Egypt, after the victory obtained by Augustus over Antony, commanded s.h.i.+ps to be carried by land from the Nile, that they might flee to the Indians.

Sesostris King of Egypt and Darius King of Persia undertook at different periods to dig a ca.n.a.l between the Nile and the Red Sea, on purpose to open a navigable communication between the Mediterranean and the Indian ocean; but as neither of them completed the work, Ptolomy made a trench 100 feet broad and 30 feet deep, which being nearly finished, he discontinued lest the sea-water from the Arabian Gulf might render the water of the Nile salt and unfit for use. Others say that, on taking the level, the architects and masters of the work found that the Sea of Arabia was _three cubits_ higher than the land of Egypt, whence it was feared that all the country would be inundated and destroyed. The ancient authors on this subject are Diodorus Siculus, Pliny, Pomponius Mela, Strabo, and many other cosmographers[322].

[Footnote 322: This communication was actually opened about A.D. 685, by _Amru_, who conquered Egypt for _Moawiah_, the first _Ommiyan Khalifah_ of Damascus. It was called _al Khalij al Amir al Momenein_, or the ca.n.a.l of the commander of the faithful, the t.i.tle of the Caliphs. It was shut up about 140 years afterwards by _Abu Jafar al Mansur_.--Astl.]

Although the town of Suez had a great name of old, it is small enough at this time, and I believe had been utterly ruined and abandoned if the Turkish navy had not been stationed here. In the front of the land which faces the south where this sea ends there is the mouth of a small creek or arm of the sea entering a short way into the land, which extends towards the west till stopped by a hillock, the only one that rises in these parts: Between which creek and the bay or ending of the sea is a very long and narrow tongue or spit of sand, on which the gallies and s.h.i.+ps of the Turks lie aground; and on which the ancient and warlike City of the Heroes is seated[323]. There still remains a small castle, without which are two high ancient towers, the remains of the City of Heroes which stood here in old times. But on the point of land where the creek enters there is a great and mighty bulwark of modern structure, which defends the entry of the creek, and scours the coast behind the sterns of the gallies if any one should attempt to land in that place.

Besides this, there runs between the gallies and the strand, an entrenchment like a ridge or long hill, making the place very strong and defensible. Having considered this place attentively, it seemed to me impossible to land in any part except behind the little mountain on the west at the head of the creek, as we should be there free from the Turkish artillery, and likewise the possession of this hillock might contribute to our success against the enemy. But it is necessary to consider that all along this strand the water is shoaly for the breadth of a bow-shot, and the ground a soft sticking clay or sinking sand, as I perceived by examining the ground from the foist or cature, which would be very prejudicial to the men in landing.

[Footnote 323: This description does not agree with the map or relation of Dr Poc.o.c.k; which makes the sea terminate in two bays, divided by the tongue of land on which Suez stands. That to the N.W. is very wide at the mouth, and is properly the termination of the western gulf of the Red Sea. The other on the N.E. is narrow at the entrance; and is divided by another tongue of land into two parts.--Astl.]

In regard to the particulars which I learnt concerning Suez, as told me by some of the men I met with, especially the Moor formerly mentioned whom I conversed with at Toro, I was informed that at the fountain of Moses, formerly mentioned as three leagues from Suez towards _Toro_, there had been a great city in old times, of which they say dome buildings or ruins are still to be seen; but they could not say what had been its name. They told me also that the remains of the ca.n.a.l attempted to be made in old times from the Nile at the city of Cairo to Suez were still to be seen, though much defaced and filled by length of time, and that those who travel from Suez to Cairo have necessarily to pa.s.s these remains. Some alleged that this trench was not intended for navigation between the Nile and the Red sea, but merely to bring water from the Nile for the supply of Suez. They told me that the whole country from Suez to Cairo was a sandy plain, quite barren and without water, being three days journey going at leisure, or about 15 leagues. That in Suez and the country round it seldom rained, but when it did at any time it was very heavy; and that the north-wind blew at Suez the whole year with great force.

From _Toro_ to _Suez_ it is 28 leagues, without any island bank or shoal in the whole way that can impede the navigation. Departing from Toro by the middle of the channel, the ran for the first 16 leagues is N.W. by N. from S.E. by S. in all of which s.p.a.ce the two coasts are about an equal distance from each other, or about three leagues asunder. At the end of these 16 or 17 leagues, the coasts begin to close very much, so that the opposite sh.o.r.es are only one league distant, which narrowness continues for two leagues; after which the Egyptian coast withdraws very much towards the west, making the large fine bay formerly mentioned. The mid channel from the end of the before mentioned 16 or 17 leagues, till we come to the N.W. point of this bay trends N.N.W. and S.S.E. the distance being 8 leagues. In this place the lands again approach very much, as the Arabian sh.o.r.e thrusts out a very long low point, and the Egyptian coast sends out a very large and high point at the end of the bay on the N.W. side, these points being only a little more than one league asunder. From these points to Suez and the end of this sea, the coasts wind inwards on each side, making another bay somewhat more than two leagues and a half long and one league and a half broad, where this sea, so celebrated in holy scripture and by profane authors, has its end. The middle of this bay extends N. and S. with some deflection to W. and E. respectively, distance two leagues and a half. On the coast between Toro and Suez, on the Arabian side, a hill rises about a gun-shot above Toro very near the sea, which is all bespotted with red streaks from side to side, giving it a curious appearance. This hill continues along the coast for 15 or 16 leagues, but the red streaks do not continue more than six leagues beyond Toro. At the end of the 15 or 16 leagues this ridge rises into a great and high knoll, after which the ridge gradually recedes from the sea, and ends about a league short of Suez. Between the high knoll and Suez along the sea there is a very low plain, in some places a league in breadth, and in others nearer Suez a league and half. Beside this hill towards Toro I saw great heaps of sand, reaching in some places to the top of the hill, yet were there no sands between the hill and the sea: "Likewise by the clefts and breaches many broken sands were driven," whence may be understood how violent the cross winds blow here, as they s.n.a.t.c.h up and drive the sand from out of the sea and lift it to the tops of the hills. These cross winds, as I noticed by the lying of the sands, were from the W. and the W.N.W.

On the other or Egyptian side of this gulf, between Toro and Suez, there run certain great and very high hills or mountains appearing over the sea coast; which about 17 leagues above Toro open in the middle as low as the plain field, after which they rise as high as before, and continue along the sh.o.r.e to within a league of Suez, where they entirely cease. I found the ebb and flow of the sea between Toro and Suez quite conformable with what has been already said respecting other parts of the coast, and neither higher nor lower: Whence appears the falsehood of some writers, who pretend that no path was opened through this sea for the Israelites by miracle; but merely that the sea ebbed so much in this place that they waited the ebb and pa.s.sed over dry. I observed that there were only two places in which it could have been possible for Sesostris and Ptolomy kings of Egypt, to have dug ca.n.a.ls from the Nile to the Red-Sea: One of these by the breach of the mountains on the Egyptian coast 17 leagues above Toro, and 11 short of Suez; and the other by the end of the nook or bay on which Suez stands; as at this place the hills on both sides end, and all the land remains quite plain and low, without hillocks or any other impediment. This second appears to me to be much more convenient for so great a work than the other, because the land is very low, the distance shorter, and there is a haven at Suez. All the rest of the coast is lined by great and high mountains of hard rock. Hence Suez must be the place to which Cleopatra commanded the s.h.i.+ps to be brought across the isthmus, a thing of such great labour that shortness was of most material importance: Here likewise for the same reason must have been the trench or ca.n.a.l from the Nile to the Red Sea; more especially as all the coast from Toro upwards is waste, and without any port till we come to Suez.

During all the time which we spent between Toro and Suez, the heaven was constantly overcast with thick black clouds, which seemed contrary to the usual nature of Egypt; as all concur in saying that it never rains in that country, and that the heavens are never obscured by clouds or vapours: But perhaps the sea raises these clouds at this place, and farther inland the sky might be clear; as we often see in Portugal that we have clear pleasant weather at Lisbon, while at Cintra only four leagues distant, there are great clouds mists and rain. The sea between Toro and Suez is subject to sudden and violent tempests; as when the wind blows from the north, which is the prevailing wind here, although not very great, the sea is wonderfully raised, the waves being everywhere so coupled together and broken that they are very dangerous.

This is not occasioned by shallow water, as this channel is very deep, only that on the Egyptian side it is somewhat shoaly close to the sh.o.r.e.

"About this place I saw certain _sea foams_ otherwise called _evil waters_, the largest I had ever seen, being as large as a target, of a whitish dun colour. These do not pa.s.s lower than Toro; but below that there are infinite small ones, which like the other are bred in and go about the sea[324]." While between Toro and Suez, though the days were insufferably hot, the nights were colder than any I ever met with.

[Footnote 324: This pa.s.sage respecting _sea foams_ or _evil waters_ is altogether unintelligible, unless perhaps some obscure allusion to _water-spouts_ maybe supposed.--E.]