The Modern Housewife or, Menagere Part 42

Deux Releves.

La Hanche de Venaison. Deux Poulardes a la Nelson.

Rissolettes de Foie gras a la Pompadour.

Rissolettes de Foie gras a la Pompadour.

Six Entrees.

Les Ortolans a la Vicomtesse.

Epigramme d'Agneau a la puree de concombres.

Grenadins de Veau aux pet.i.ts pois.

Filets de Caneton au jus d'orange.

Cotelettes de Mouton a la Provencale.

Turban de Volaille a la Perigord.

Deux Rotis.

Cailles bardees aux feuilles de vignes.

Gelinottes des Ardennes.

Huit Entremets.

Turban de Meringues Pain de Fruit aux Pistaches. aux Peches.

Galantine Crotades d'Artichaux a la Voliere. a l'Indienne.

Vegetable Marrow Miroton de Homard a la Bechamel. a la Gelee.

Bavaroise Mousseuse Blanche Creme a l'Ananas. au Marasquin.

Ices. Deux Releves. St. James's Pine Apple Hure de Sanglier en surprise glace Cake, and a la Vanille. the first Strawberry. Pet.i.ts Biscuits souffles a la Creme. ever made.

After dinner M. Soyer had the honor of presenting the youthful heir the proof copy of his new work on Cookery.

_Morning Post, July 26, 1849._

LETTER XX

A NEW ALIMENT.

Bifrons Villa.

Here, dear Eloise, is an entirely new aliment, which has never yet been introduced into this country. A semi-epicure of our acquaintance, on returning from his visit to the National Guard of France, presented me with a pound of it, which he had purchased in Paris; but even there, said he, it is almost in its infancy; you may fancy, if I were not anxious of making an immediate trial of it; but before I give you the receipt how to use it, let me tell you I have found it most delicious. Mr. B. has not yet tasted it, being for a week in the country, but I am confident he will like it, especially for breakfast: but the puzzle is, after my pound is used, how we are to get more? Time, I suppose, will teach us. It appears that we are indebted for it to a celebrated French gentleman, M. le Docteur Lamolte, the inventor of the electric light, who ingeniously, though oddly, named it Cho-ca, being a scientific composition of _chocolat_ and _cafe_, the alliance of which balancing admirably their excellence and virtue, and partly correcting their evils, the first being rather irritable, the second heavy. But I think, if my recollection serves me rightly, the idea of this compound must have originated from that great French philosopher, M. de Voltaire, who constantly, for his breakfast, partook of half cafe-au-lait and half chocolate, which were served at the same time in separate vessels in a boiling state, and poured from each slowly, about eighteen inches in elevation from his cup, which, he said, made it extremely light and digestible.

Years after, that still more extraordinary man, Napoleon Bonaparte, became so partial to it, that he made a constant use of it, and it has often been remarked by those who surrounded his person, that after the great excitement and fatigue of a battle he has often partaken of two or three cups, which seemed to restore all the strength and energy which used to characterize that great man; on ordinary occasions one cup would suffice him, but served more _a la militaire_, not being poured so scientifically as did the Fernaise philosopher.

The approval of this mixed beverage by two such eminent characters speaks volumes in favor of the Cho-ca, which ought to be immediately introduced in England. It will also, no doubt, interest you to learn that the first cup of coffee ever introduced in Europe was made and presented to Louis XIV, at his magnificent palace of Versailles, by the Amba.s.sador from the Sublime Porte in the year 1664, when the n.o.ble potentate, whose palate was as delicate as he was himself great, p.r.o.nounced it excellent; and immediately perceived the immense advantage it would be to introduce such a delicacy into France as food, which a short time after took place, and was very successfully received there; also the chocolate, which is made from cacao, was first introduced to the Cardinal Mazarin, who, having partook of the first cup like Louis XIV. did of the coffee, and not a worse judge than his ill.u.s.trious master, remunerated with a handsome reward its inventor. It is much to be regretted that such interesting and useful subjects have never yet attracted the attention of our great Painters, instead of continually tracing on innumerable yards of canva.s.s the horrors of war, the destruction of a fleet by fire and water, the plague, the storm, the earthquake, or an eruption and destruction of a city by an avalanche or an inundation; if we cannot do without those painful historical reminiscences, why not add to those mournful collections a group of Louis XIV. and his court at Versailles, where he, magnificently dressed, was receiving from the hands of the said Pacha, not a cup of coffee, but a branch of that plant covered with its precious berries; and why not also, as a pendant, Mazarin surrounded by his satellites, taking the first cup of chocolate; or the characteristic Voltaire pouring a cup of Cho-ca to Frederic the Great in his tent on the field of Potsdam? These subjects seem to have been entirely neglected in being immortalized on canva.s.s, why? because they have never done harm or evil to any one; but, on the contrary, have, are, and ever will prove to be, among the greatest boons ever conferred upon humanity: it would also engrave in our minds, as well as in our history, to what mortals we are indebted for the importation and introduction of such important productions, which daily const.i.tute a part of our comforts, and have conferred an everlasting benefit on mankind; but, as usual, dear Eloise, you will no doubt reproach me for having so much enthusiasm; however, as on this subject you have been tolerably quiet lately, I not only here inclose you the receipt, but also two of the thin round cakes of this new aliment, the Cho-ca, which will produce two cups by making it as follows:--

880. _Cho-ca._--Sc.r.a.pe or grate it; put a pint of milk in a stewpan or chocolate-pot, and place it on the fire, with two ounces of sugar, boil it, put the Cho-ca in it, and stir it well for two minutes, and serve.

ON CARVING.

You reproach me for not having said a word about carving; I have not done so, as I think that is an accomplishment which our s.e.x need not study, but at the same time it is well to know a little of it. It is rather difficult to give you a correct description without drawings, but a few general remarks may be useful.

Cut Beef, Veal, Ham, Tongue, and b.r.e.a.s.t.s of Poultry, with a sharp knife, very thin; Mutton, Lamb, and Pork rather thicker.

Never rise from your seat to carve; never cut across the grain of the meat, that is, not across the ribs of beef, as I have seen some persons do, and Mr. B. tells me is often done at clubs, but it is only those do so who do not know how to carve or appreciate the true flavor of the meat.

Never place a fork through the back of a fowl, in order to carve the leg and wings, but run the knife gently down each side the breast, detaching the leg and wing at the same time, which is greatly facilitated by the use of the Tendon Separator--one of which I purchased at Bramah's, in Piccadilly; it is the greatest boon ever conferred on a bad carver: the directions for using it are given with it. If it was more generally used, there would be no more birds flying across the table in the faces of guests; no more turkeys deposited in a lady's or gentleman's lap; no more splas.h.i.+ng of gravy to spoil satin dresses; but all would be divided with the greatest facility, and in the most elegant manner, and the poultry would look much better at table.

Never cut up the body of poultry at table, that should always be left; but game should be cut up, as many epicures prefer the backbone. For a sirloin of beef the under part of the loin should always be cut when hot, and the upper part cut straight from the backbone towards the outside of the ribs, by this plan you will not spoil the appearance of the joint.

Ribs of Beef should be carved in the same way, cutting thin and slanting.

Round of Beef: cut a slice half an inch thick from the outside, and then carve thin slices, with a little fat.

Aitch-bone, the same.

Fillet of Veal, the same.

Loin of Veal, carve as the Sirloin of Beef, serving some of the kidney, and fat to each person.

Shoulder of Veal, begin from the knuckle, cut thin and slanting.

Saddle of Mutton will, if properly carved, serve a great many persons; instead of cutting a long slice the whole length, put your knife under the meat and cut it away from the bone, then cut it like thin chops, serving lean and fat together; according to the usual plan, a saddle of mutton will serve but few people, and the flavor of the meat is not so good as when served this way.

Necks and Loins: the bones should be severed by a small meat-saw, and not a chopper, and the bone cut through when serving, and carve slanting.

Haunches are usually carved by making a cut near the knuckle and cutting a slice from that through the loin; but by a plan I have adopted, I find that the meat eats better, and the joint goes farther. I carve it like the leg and saddle, that is, I cut a slice out of the leg part and a slice from the loin, and serve together.

This is more economical, but would not do for venison.