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The Fountain of Egeria--The Pontine Marshes--Mola--The Falernian Hills--The Doctor of St. Agatha--The Queen of Naples, 372
LETTER LV.
St. Peter's--The Fountains--The Obelisk--The Forum--Its Memories--The Cenci--Claude's Pictures--Fancies Realized--The Last of the Dorias--A Picture by Leonardo Da Vinci--Palace of the Cesars--An Hour on the Palatine, 379
LETTER LVI.
Roman Eyes versus Feet--Vespers at Santa Trinita--Roman Baths--Baths of t.i.tus--Sh.e.l.ley's Haunt, 390
LETTER LVII.
The Tomb of the Scipios--The Early Christians--The Tomb of Metella--Fountain of Egeria--Changed Aspect of Rome, 396
LETTER LVIII.
Palm Sunday--A Crowd--The Miserere--A Judas--The Was.h.i.+ng of Feet--The Dinner, 402
LETTER LIX.
The Protestant Cemetery--Sh.e.l.ley's Grave--Beauty of the Place--Keats--Dr. Bell, 409
LETTER LX.
Audience with the Pope--Humility and Pride in Contrast--The Miserere at St. Peter's--Italian Moonlight--Dancing at the Coliseum, 415
LETTER LXI.
Easter Sunday--The Pope's Blessing--Illumination of St.
Peter's--Florentine Sociability--A Marriage of Convenience, 421
LETTER LXII.
The Correggio--Austrians in Italy--The Cathedral at Milan-- Guercino's Hagar--Milanese Coffee, 427
LETTER LXIII.
Still in Italy--Isola Bella--Ascent of the Simplon--Farewell to Italy--An American--Descent of the Simplon, 433
LETTER LXIV.
The Cretins--The Goitre--First Sight of Lake Leman--Mont Blanc--June in Geneva--The Winkelreid, 440
LETTER LXV.
American and Genevese Steamers--Lilies of the Valley--A Frenchman's Apology--Genevese Women--Voltaire's Room, 446
LETTER LXVI.
The Jura--Arrival at Morez--Lost my Temper--National Characteristics--Politeness versus Comfort, 452
LETTER LXVII.
Lafayette's Funeral--Crossing the Channel--An English Inn-- Mail Coaches and Horses--A Gentleman Driver--A Subject for Madame Trollope, 458
LETTER LXVIII.
First Dinner in London--The King's Birth-day--A Handsome Street--Introduction to Lady Blessington--A Chat about Bulwer--The D'Israeli's--Contrast of Criticism--Countess Guiccioli--Lady Blessington--An Apology, 465
LETTER LXIX.
An Evening at Lady Blessington's--Fonblanc--Tribute to American Authors--A Sketch of Bulwer--Bulwer's Conversation--An Author his own Critic, 476
LETTER LXX.
Ascot Races--Handsome Men--The Princess Victoria--Charles Lamb--Mary Lamb--Lamb's Conversation--The Breakfast at Fault, 483
LETTER LXXI.
A Dinner at Lady Blessington's--D'Israeli, the Younger--The Author of Vathek--Mr. Beckford's Whims--Irish Patriotism--The Effect of Eloquence, 491
LETTER LXXII.
The Opera House--What Books will pay for--English Beauty--A Belle's Criticism on Society--Celebrities, 498
LETTER LXXIII.
Breakfast with Proctor--A Story of Hazlitt--Procter as a Poet--Impressions of the Man, 504
LETTER LXXIV.
Moore's Dread of Criticism--Moore's Love of Rank--A generous Offer n.o.bly Refused--A Sacrifice to Jupiter--The Election of Speaker--Miss Pardoe--Prices of Books, 509
LETTER LXXV.
Dinner at Lady Blessington's--Scott--The Italians--Scott's Mode of Living--O'Connell--Grattan--Moore's Manner of Talking--Lady Blessington's Tact--Moore's Singing--A Curious Incident--The Maid Metamorphosed, 517
PENCILLINGS BY THE WAY.
LETTER I.
AT SEA.--I have emerged from my berth this morning for the first time since we left the Capes. We have been running six or seven days before a strong northwest gale, which, by the scuds in the sky, is not yet blown out, and my head and hand, as you will see by my penmans.h.i.+p, are anything but at rights. If you have ever plunged about in a cold rain-storm at sea for seven successive days, you can imagine how I have amused myself.
