Food Matters Part 22

Gigantes and other big beans-lima, edamame, fava, and whatever else you can get-make great finger food. Fresh beans are preferable, but hard to find (so when you do, grab them). Home-cooked dried beans are also fine. Whichever you use, cook them only until just tender, with skins intact.

Serve the beans with toothpicks for spearing and dipping in skordalia, skordalia, an eggless mayonnaise subst.i.tute from Greece. This version is emulsified with bread and nuts, and works beautifully with any crudite, though I find the beans a nice match with the nutty sauce. To make this recipe an integrated dish, simply toss the beans with the sauce. an eggless mayonnaise subst.i.tute from Greece. This version is emulsified with bread and nuts, and works beautifully with any crudite, though I find the beans a nice match with the nutty sauce. To make this recipe an integrated dish, simply toss the beans with the sauce.

4 cups cooked large beans1 thick slice day-old whole grain breadAbout 1 cup vegetable stock or water2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more as needed1 cup pine nuts, walnuts, blanched almonds, or hazelnuts2 cloves garlic, peeled, or to taste teaspoon cayenne, or to taste1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice, or to tasteSalt and freshly ground black pepper

1 Put the bread in a bowl and saturate it with the liquid. Wait a couple minutes, squeeze most of the moisture out of the bread into the bowl, then put it in a food processor with the oil, nuts, garlic, and cayenne. Process the mixture until smooth; then, with the machine running, pour in enough of the remaining liquid to form a creamy sauce. Put the bread in a bowl and saturate it with the liquid. Wait a couple minutes, squeeze most of the moisture out of the bread into the bowl, then put it in a food processor with the oil, nuts, garlic, and cayenne. Process the mixture until smooth; then, with the machine running, pour in enough of the remaining liquid to form a creamy sauce.

2 Add the lemon juice and some salt and pepper and serve immediately as a dipping sauce for the beans or other vegetables. Stored in an airtight container and refrigerated, the sauce will keep for up to 2 days. Add the lemon juice and some salt and pepper and serve immediately as a dipping sauce for the beans or other vegetables. Stored in an airtight container and refrigerated, the sauce will keep for up to 2 days.

Vegetable Pancakes

Makes: 4 servings .

Time: At least 30 minutes Time: At least 30 minutes

A surefire way to get anyone to eat any vegetable, these crisp babies are delicious as a side dish, alone as an appetizer, or served on a bed of Nicely Dressed Salad Greens as lunch.

Root vegetables are most common, but you can use whatever looks good to you, alone or in combination: zucchini, yellow squash, winter squash, corn, or chopped scallions; even spinach or chard is good (just cook it, squeeze it dry, and chop it first). And consider tossing in a tablespoon of fresh herbs or spices. Sweet potato and corn benefit from a bit of cilantro, zucchini comes to life with dill, and ginger or cardamom will warm up winter squash beautifully. Serve with Olive Oil Drizzle, a sprinkling of Parmesan or chopped nuts, or any salsa.

About 1 pounds grated vegetables, peeled first if necessary (3 cups packed), and squeezed dry small onion, grated; or 4 scallions1 egg or 2 egg whites, lightly beaten cup white or whole wheat flour, more or lessSalt and freshly ground black pepperOlive or vegetable oil or b.u.t.ter for greasing the pan

1 Heat the oven to 275F. Grate the vegetable or vegetables by hand or with the grating disk of a food processor. Mix together the vegetables, onion, egg, and cup of the flour. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Add a little more flour if the mixture isn't holding together. Heat the oven to 275F. Grate the vegetable or vegetables by hand or with the grating disk of a food processor. Mix together the vegetables, onion, egg, and cup of the flour. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Add a little more flour if the mixture isn't holding together.

2 Put a little b.u.t.ter or oil in a large skillet or griddle over medium-high heat. When the b.u.t.ter is melted or the oil is hot, drop in spoonfuls of the batter, using a fork to spread the vegetables into an even layer, then press down a bit. Work in batches to prevent overcrowding. (Transfer finished pancakes to the oven until all are finished.) Cook, turning once, until nicely browned on both sides, about 5 minutes. Serve hot or at room temperature. Put a little b.u.t.ter or oil in a large skillet or griddle over medium-high heat. When the b.u.t.ter is melted or the oil is hot, drop in spoonfuls of the batter, using a fork to spread the vegetables into an even layer, then press down a bit. Work in batches to prevent overcrowding. (Transfer finished pancakes to the oven until all are finished.) Cook, turning once, until nicely browned on both sides, about 5 minutes. Serve hot or at room temperature.

Fruit and Cereal Bites

Makes: About 3 dozen bite-size b.a.l.l.s .

Time: About an hour, largely unattended Time: About an hour, largely unattended

You can make this nutritious alternative to so-called energy bars with any dried fruit and practically any cereal, and it takes no time at all. To gild the lily, roll the finished bites in shredded unsweetened coconut, finely ground nuts, or cocoa.

1 cups dried fruit2 tablespoons vegetable oil2 tablespoons honey (optional)Fruit juice or water, as needed1 cup ready-to-eat breakfast cereal, like granolaCrumbled shredded wheat, or any whole grain flakes or "nuts"

1 Put the dried fruit, oil, and honey if you are using it in a food processor and puree until smooth, adding fruit juice a little at a time to keep the machine running. You'll need to stop once or twice to sc.r.a.pe down the sides of the bowl. (Add small amounts of water or fruit juice if the fruit is dried out and is not processing.) Fold in the cereal until evenly distributed. Put the dried fruit, oil, and honey if you are using it in a food processor and puree until smooth, adding fruit juice a little at a time to keep the machine running. You'll need to stop once or twice to sc.r.a.pe down the sides of the bowl. (Add small amounts of water or fruit juice if the fruit is dried out and is not processing.) Fold in the cereal until evenly distributed.

2 Take a heaping tablespoon of the mixture and roll it into a ball. Then if you like, roll the ball around in any extra ingredients; see the headnote. Put the b.a.l.l.s between layers of waxed paper in a tightly covered container and refrigerate until set, about 45 minutes. Eat immediately, or store in the fridge for up to several days. You can also wrap the b.a.l.l.s individually in wax paper, like candies. Take a heaping tablespoon of the mixture and roll it into a ball. Then if you like, roll the ball around in any extra ingredients; see the headnote. Put the b.a.l.l.s between layers of waxed paper in a tightly covered container and refrigerate until set, about 45 minutes. Eat immediately, or store in the fridge for up to several days. You can also wrap the b.a.l.l.s individually in wax paper, like candies.

Fruit and Cereal Bars: Line an 8-inch by 8-inch pan with foil. Follow the recipe through Step 2. Spread the mixture in the pan, pus.h.i.+ng it into the corners and evening the top. Refrigerate to set as above. If you like, dust the top with any of the other ingredients as described in the headnote. Then cut into squares. Line an 8-inch by 8-inch pan with foil. Follow the recipe through Step 2. Spread the mixture in the pan, pus.h.i.+ng it into the corners and evening the top. Refrigerate to set as above. If you like, dust the top with any of the other ingredients as described in the headnote. Then cut into squares.

Other Dishes in the Book You Can Eat for Snacks or AppetizersSalsa, Any Style with Baked Pita Triangles, Tortilla Chips, or CroutonsRoasted Red PeppersHybrid Quick BreadAlmost No-Work Whole Grain BreadFruit SmoothiesAnything Goes GranolaAny of the saladsAny of the soupsNot Your Usual Ratatouille on whole grain crackers or toasted bread Grilled or Broiled KebabsRoasted Herb-Stuffed VegetablesMeat-and-Grain Loaves, Burgers, and b.a.l.l.sSavory Vegetable and Grain Torta

Baked Pita Triangles, Tortilla Chips, or Croutons

Makes: 4 servings .

Time: About 30 minutes Time: About 30 minutes

The same technique works perfectly for pita, tortillas, and croutons-and all are infinitely preferable to what comes in a package. Skip the oil if you like, though it not only adds flavor but also helps the seasonings stick. I often dust these with chili or curry powder and plenty of freshly ground black pepper, but use whatever spices you like.

If you're using pocket pita bread, split each piece into two circles first; these will be thinner and take less time to cook-but watch them carefully, as they burn easily.

2 or 3 whole wheat pitas, 8 small corn tortillas, or 1 whole grain baguetteOlive oil as needed (optional)SaltFreshly ground black pepper (optional)

1 Heat the oven to 450F. Cut the pita or tortillas into 6 or 8 triangles, or cut the bread into -inch slices or cubes. Put the pieces on 1 or 2 rimmed baking sheets; it's OK if they're close but not overlapping. Bake, undisturbed, until the bread begins to turn golden, about 15 minutes. Drizzle, brush, or spray with olive oil if you like. Heat the oven to 450F. Cut the pita or tortillas into 6 or 8 triangles, or cut the bread into -inch slices or cubes. Put the pieces on 1 or 2 rimmed baking sheets; it's OK if they're close but not overlapping. Bake, undisturbed, until the bread begins to turn golden, about 15 minutes. Drizzle, brush, or spray with olive oil if you like.

2 Turn the slices over, add more olive oil if you're using it, and continue baking until they're the desired color, anywhere from 5 to 15 minutes. Sprinkle with salt and pepper-or other seasoning-as you like. Serve immediately with hummus or salsa, or alongside soup or salad (or tossed Turn the slices over, add more olive oil if you're using it, and continue baking until they're the desired color, anywhere from 5 to 15 minutes. Sprinkle with salt and pepper-or other seasoning-as you like. Serve immediately with hummus or salsa, or alongside soup or salad (or tossed in in salad). Or store in an airtight container; these will stay crunchy for up to a week. salad). Or store in an airtight container; these will stay crunchy for up to a week.

Brown-Bag Popcorn

Makes: 2 to 4 servings .

Time: 5 minutes or less Time: 5 minutes or less

Popcorn is the perfect snack: It's a whole grain that costs next to nothing, can be made in minutes, and flavored any number of different ways. b.u.t.tered popcorn is probably still the best, but in the middle of the afternoon when I need something easy to munch on, this microwave version (which can also be made without oil or b.u.t.ter) does the trick-and you avoid the nasty additives present in packaged microwave corn. (This method also works in a deep gla.s.s ca.s.serole with a lid.) I usually get lazy and just have this popcorn with salt, but you can jazz it up by adding superfine sugar for a salty-sweet mix, a handful of chopped fresh herbs, or one of the Six Seasoning Blends You Can't Live Without, on Chapter 10.

cup fresh, good-quality popcorn teaspoon salt, or less if you want2 teaspoons peanut or vegetable oil

In a brown paper lunch bag, combine the popping corn and salt; then fold the top of the bag over a couple times. Put it in the microwave on high for about 2 or 3 minutes, or until there are 4 or 5 seconds between pops. Open the bag carefully, because steam will have built up. Toss with your favorite seasonings or serve as is.

Dinner Most people do most of their cooking at dinner, and it's at dinner we most often eat straight cuts of meat. These, then, are the Food Matters recipes that are most obviously different from the standard (including my own) recipes, in which the proportion of animal to plant foods is literally turned upside down. Vegetables are always abundant and almost always in the forefront. Meat, poultry, and fish are often optional.

But it's also at dinner where you are most likely to eat most of your calories, and in keeping with that, these are the heartiest recipes in the book; it's not like you're going to starve here. If I do say so myself, these recipes are fantastic.

The basic stir-fry is a less-meat cla.s.sic; there's an a.s.sortment of vegetable-first recipes cooked by different methods, many of which include a bit of meat for flavoring. There are more standard preparations, like kebabs (with a large vegetable component), pasta, and chili. Then there are redefined, modernized international standards, like ca.s.soulet, paella, chicken "not" pie (no crust!), bouillabaisse, and eggplant and chicken parmesan.

And most of these recipes are extremely adaptable: You can take advantage of whatever is in season, and in every case I've given suggestions for subst.i.tuting, so each recipe can be taken in a number of different directions.

Stir-Fried Vegetables with Sh.e.l.lfish or Meat

Makes: 4 servings .

Time: 20 to 30 minutes Time: 20 to 30 minutes

Super-simple and amazingly versatile, this works with any combination of vegetables and virtually any protein. Cutting the vegetables into bite-size pieces avoids the extra step of parboiling, so everything happens in one pan. Just remember that soft, pliable vegetables like greens are going to cook in an instant, while firm, hard vegetables are going to take a few minutes to become tender. Poke and taste as you work until you get the hang of judging doneness visually, and you'll be fine.

For vegetables, try bell pepper, cabbage, bok choy, fennel, spinach, snowpeas or snap peas, asparagus, green beans, edamame or other fresh or frozen sh.e.l.l beans, mushrooms, carrots, broccoli, or cauliflower. I love this with shrimp, but try scallops, squid, lobster, or crab; thinly sliced boneless beef sirloin, or pork or lamb shoulder; cut-up boneless chicken breast or thighs; or firm tofu cubes.

For a change of pace, try tossing this stir-fry with hot soba or other noodles.