Food Matters Part 21

3 to 4 pounds a.s.sorted crudites (see the headnote)1 cup olive oilSalt and freshly ground black pepper

1 Prepare all the vegetables as described in the headnote and store for later or put into serving pieces (small bowls, gla.s.sware, and platters all work). Prepare all the vegetables as described in the headnote and store for later or put into serving pieces (small bowls, gla.s.sware, and platters all work).

2 Mix the oil with a large pinch of salt and put it in one or two bowls. Serve the vegetables with the oil as a dip. Mix the oil with a large pinch of salt and put it in one or two bowls. Serve the vegetables with the oil as a dip.

Bagna Cauda: This is a little more complicated. Combine in a saucepan (or a fondue pot) 4 ounces anchovy fillets, packed in olive oil; 1 tablespoon minced garlic; and 1 tablespoon fresh chopped rosemary or savory (or 2 teaspoons dried). Turn the heat as low as possible. Cook, stirring constantly, until the anchovies break up, about 10 minutes (do not let the garlic brown). Add lots of freshly ground pepper and transfer the dip to an earthenware dish or set the fondue pot over its burner. Taste and add a bit of salt if necessary; you may not need any. (Keep warm or set aside for up to a couple of hours, then reheat just before serving.) Serve the warm dip alongside the vegetables. This is a little more complicated. Combine in a saucepan (or a fondue pot) 4 ounces anchovy fillets, packed in olive oil; 1 tablespoon minced garlic; and 1 tablespoon fresh chopped rosemary or savory (or 2 teaspoons dried). Turn the heat as low as possible. Cook, stirring constantly, until the anchovies break up, about 10 minutes (do not let the garlic brown). Add lots of freshly ground pepper and transfer the dip to an earthenware dish or set the fondue pot over its burner. Taste and add a bit of salt if necessary; you may not need any. (Keep warm or set aside for up to a couple of hours, then reheat just before serving.) Serve the warm dip alongside the vegetables.

Vegetable Spread

Makes: 4 servings .

Time: About 40 minutes, including cooking the vegetables Time: About 40 minutes, including cooking the vegetables

Baba ghanoush, the cla.s.sic Middle Eastern eggplant dip, is the model for this dish. However, I've turned the procedure into a master recipe that applies to nearly any vegetable: zucchini, b.u.t.ternut or other winter squash, cauliflower, broccoli, and most root vegetables like carrots, celery root, and parsnips. Greens, sh.e.l.l peas, and cooked beans work well, too. (For hummus, Chapter 12; but if you want a straight bean dip, subst.i.tute about 3 cups of cooked beans for the vegetables here.) Choose flavorings from the list that follows, and the possibilities are almost endless. Here are some combos to get you started: ginger is killer with b.u.t.ternut squash, dill adds a lovely complexity to zucchini, mint brightens fava beans, and mustard seeds lend sharpness to cauliflower.

It doesn't matter whether you steam, boil, saute, grill, or roast the vegetables first, though grilling and roasting concentrate flavors and make the spread more complex; just make sure everything is quite tender. Use the finished spread or dip as an appetizer or for sandwiches, or gently reheat and serve over rice or toss with pasta.

About 2 pounds any vegetables, trimmed and cooked until tender by any method3 tablespoons olive oil, plus more as neededSalt and freshly ground black pepper

1 Make sure the vegetables are relatively dry before starting. If you need to drain them, reserve the cooking liquid. To puree the vegetables, put them in a blender or food processor with the olive oil and as much of the cooking liquid (or water or more olive oil) as you need to get the machine going; or run the vegetables through a food mill. (In many cases, you can simply mash the vegetables with a large fork or potato masher, adding the olive oil and cooking liquid as needed to reach the consistency you want.) Make sure the vegetables are relatively dry before starting. If you need to drain them, reserve the cooking liquid. To puree the vegetables, put them in a blender or food processor with the olive oil and as much of the cooking liquid (or water or more olive oil) as you need to get the machine going; or run the vegetables through a food mill. (In many cases, you can simply mash the vegetables with a large fork or potato masher, adding the olive oil and cooking liquid as needed to reach the consistency you want.)

2 Taste, then sprinkle with salt and pepper and taste again. Serve warm, cold, or at room temperature. (The mixture will keep in the fridge for several days.) Taste, then sprinkle with salt and pepper and taste again. Serve warm, cold, or at room temperature. (The mixture will keep in the fridge for several days.)

Some Ways to Flavor Vegetable SpreadAdd up to cup of fresh parsley, mint, dill, cilantro, basil, or other mild herb leaves before pureeing.Add up to a tablespoon of fresh rosemary, oregano, or thyme leaves before pureeing.Squeeze some citrus juice-lemon, lime, or orange-into the puree.Include a few coins of peeled fresh ginger or a garlic clove or two with the vegetables as they puree.Puree the vegetable mixture with fresh or reconst.i.tuted dried chiles to taste, or add a pinch of cayenne or red pepper flakes.When you add salt, add a pinch of ground ginger, cinnamon, cardamom, mustard seeds, or nutmeg.Add either Chili Powder or Med Mix along with the olive oil.Instead of the olive oil, use peanut oil or coconut milk, and season with either Hot or Fragrant Curry Powder.Instead of the olive oil, use a combination of sesame oil and peanut oil, and season with either Five-Spice Powder or Sesame Shake.Puree the vegetable mixture with a spoonful or two of yogurt, sour cream, cream, or creme fraiche.

Easy Whole Grain Flatbread

Makes: 4 to 6 appetizer servings .

Time: About 45 minutes, largely unattended (longer for resting, if time allows) Time: About 45 minutes, largely unattended (longer for resting, if time allows)

The simplest bread is nothing more than water and flour. Heat some olive oil in a pan-you can add other flavorings, too-and this basic formula becomes a quick flatbread that's ready in the time it takes to cook dinner. The idea comes from the recipe for socca socca (also called (also called farinata farinata), the Mediterranean "pizza" made from chickpea flour (see the variation below). Chickpea flour and buckwheat flour are certainly options for the main recipe, too, but whole wheat flour and cornmeal are far more common and equally delicious.

A couple of technical details. The resting time for the batter is optional, but it results in a more complex flavor and a creamier, less gritty texture. If you're in a hurry, though, just let the batter sit while the oven heats. It's still awesome. And though a round pizza pan with a lip is ideal, a 10-or 12-inch skillet also works well; the bread in the smaller pan will need less oil, will be a slightly bit thicker, and will take another 5 or 10 minutes to bake.

You can bake the bread up to several hours in advance; warm it a little if you like-or not.

1 cup whole wheat flour or cornmeal, or chickpea flour (also called besan besan; sold in Middle Eastern, Indian, and health food stores)1 teaspoon salt4 tablespoons olive oil (see the headnote) large onion, thinly sliced (optional)1 tablespoon fresh rosemary leaves (optional)

1 Put the flour into a bowl; add salt; then slowly add 1 cups water, whisking to eliminate lumps. Cover with a towel, and let sit while oven heats, or as long as 12 hours. The batter should be about the consistency of thin pancake batter. Put the flour into a bowl; add salt; then slowly add 1 cups water, whisking to eliminate lumps. Cover with a towel, and let sit while oven heats, or as long as 12 hours. The batter should be about the consistency of thin pancake batter.

2 When ready to bake, heat the oven to 450F. Put the oil in a 12-inch rimmed pizza pan or skillet (along with the onion and rosemary if you're using them) and put in the heated oven. Wait a couple of minutes for the oil to get hot, but not smoking; the oil is ready when you just start to smell it. Carefully remove the pan (give the onions a stir); then pour in the batter, and return the skillet to the oven. Bake 30 to 40 minutes, or until the flatbread is well browned, firm, and crisp around the edges. (It will release easily from the pan when it's done.) Let it rest for a couple minutes before cutting it into wedges or squares. When ready to bake, heat the oven to 450F. Put the oil in a 12-inch rimmed pizza pan or skillet (along with the onion and rosemary if you're using them) and put in the heated oven. Wait a couple of minutes for the oil to get hot, but not smoking; the oil is ready when you just start to smell it. Carefully remove the pan (give the onions a stir); then pour in the batter, and return the skillet to the oven. Bake 30 to 40 minutes, or until the flatbread is well browned, firm, and crisp around the edges. (It will release easily from the pan when it's done.) Let it rest for a couple minutes before cutting it into wedges or squares.

Easy Whole Grain Pizza: When the bread is done, top as you would pizza, using a relatively light hand. Smear a thin layer of tomato sauce on first if you like, then add a sprinkling or crumble of cheese and thinly sliced vegetables, cooked meat, olives, onions-whatever. Turn on the broiler and put the pan under the heat until the ingredients are hot and bubbly. Let rest as above, then cut and serve. When the bread is done, top as you would pizza, using a relatively light hand. Smear a thin layer of tomato sauce on first if you like, then add a sprinkling or crumble of cheese and thinly sliced vegetables, cooked meat, olives, onions-whatever. Turn on the broiler and put the pan under the heat until the ingredients are hot and bubbly. Let rest as above, then cut and serve.

Easy Socca Socca or or Farinata Farinata: Crisp on the bottom, custardy on top; chickpea flour is authentic, but whole wheat flour produces lovely results. You'll need a deep 12-inch pan or skillet. Increase the water to 3 cups and add up to another 2 tablespoons of oil if you like. Bake as above, but longer-closer to an hour. To get a crisper top, set under the broiler for a couple of minutes after the bottom is nicely browned. Let cool a bit in the pan, then slide a narrow spatula under the bottom to remove it. Cut into wedges and serve. Crisp on the bottom, custardy on top; chickpea flour is authentic, but whole wheat flour produces lovely results. You'll need a deep 12-inch pan or skillet. Increase the water to 3 cups and add up to another 2 tablespoons of oil if you like. Bake as above, but longer-closer to an hour. To get a crisper top, set under the broiler for a couple of minutes after the bottom is nicely browned. Let cool a bit in the pan, then slide a narrow spatula under the bottom to remove it. Cut into wedges and serve.

Root Vegetable Chips

Makes: 4 servings .

Time: 30 minutes Time: 30 minutes

It's hard to beat potato chips, but since I've spent the first half of the book trying to talk you out of junk food, it seems only fair to offer you a great alternative. Most root vegetables will work here; beets are wonderful, but try potatoes, carrots, parsnips, rutabagas, kohlrabi, sweet potatoes, yams, and turnips-all are terrific. Cooking times will vary a bit depending on the vegetable and thickness; just turn them or pull them off the sheet pans whenever they're ready.

Dusted simply with salt and pepper or one of the Six Seasoning Blends You Can't Live Without, these crisps are far superior to anything that comes from a store or a vending machine.

1 pound beets or other root vegetables (see above), trimmed and peeled3 to 4 tablespoons olive, peanut, or vegetable oilSalt and freshly ground black pepper

1 Preheat the oven to 400F. Lightly grease a couple of baking sheets or line them with parchment if you like. (For extra-crisp chips, heat the pans in the oven while you prepare the vegetables; then prepare the pans.) Preheat the oven to 400F. Lightly grease a couple of baking sheets or line them with parchment if you like. (For extra-crisp chips, heat the pans in the oven while you prepare the vegetables; then prepare the pans.)

2 Cut the beets in half and then crosswise into thin slices ( Cut the beets in half and then crosswise into thin slices (1/8 inch or so). You can use a mandoline for this; just don't set it too thin, or the slices will stick to the pan. (If the beets are small, simply cut them crosswise.) Gently toss them in the oil and spread the slices out on the baking sheets; it's OK if they're close, but don't let them overlap. inch or so). You can use a mandoline for this; just don't set it too thin, or the slices will stick to the pan. (If the beets are small, simply cut them crosswise.) Gently toss them in the oil and spread the slices out on the baking sheets; it's OK if they're close, but don't let them overlap.

3 Roast the beet slices until they're beginning to brown on the bottom, 10 to 12 minutes. Flip them over and sprinkle with salt and pepper or other seasonings. Keep roasting until they're well browned, another 10 minutes or so. Serve immediately. Roast the beet slices until they're beginning to brown on the bottom, 10 to 12 minutes. Flip them over and sprinkle with salt and pepper or other seasonings. Keep roasting until they're well browned, another 10 minutes or so. Serve immediately.

Crisp Nori Ribbons

Makes: 4 servings .

Time: About 30 minutes, mostly unattended Time: About 30 minutes, mostly unattended

Nori, the thin sheets of dried seaweed most commonly used to wrap sus.h.i.+, also makes terrific chips. When gently roasted, the sheets darken and become light, crisp, and a little curly, perfect as a light appetizer, with a bowl of edamame, as a snack, or as a crunchy garnish for many Asian dishes. Season with a good sprinkling of sea salt, a dash of Five-Spice Powder or Sesame Shake, plain sesame seeds, or a light brus.h.i.+ng of sesame oil.

6 nori sheetsSea salt or other seasonings, to taste

1 Heat the oven to 250F. Brush or spray one sheet of the nori very lightly with a small amount of water and sprinkle with sea salt and any other seasonings. Press a second sheet on top of the first like a sandwich; the sheets won't bind perfectly, but they should stay together well enough to get you through Step 2. Heat the oven to 250F. Brush or spray one sheet of the nori very lightly with a small amount of water and sprinkle with sea salt and any other seasonings. Press a second sheet on top of the first like a sandwich; the sheets won't bind perfectly, but they should stay together well enough to get you through Step 2.

2 Use a pizza cutter or sharp knife to cut the layered nori into 1-by 3-inch ribbons (or any desired size). Transfer to a cookie sheet in a single layer. Bake the ribbons for about 20 minutes; they will curl, crisp, and darken as they cook. When the chips are done, they become superlight and break easily, so remove the pan from the oven carefully and slide them off the cookie sheet onto racks (they cool quickly), then serve immediately or store in a st.u.r.dy covered container for up to a day or so. Use a pizza cutter or sharp knife to cut the layered nori into 1-by 3-inch ribbons (or any desired size). Transfer to a cookie sheet in a single layer. Bake the ribbons for about 20 minutes; they will curl, crisp, and darken as they cook. When the chips are done, they become superlight and break easily, so remove the pan from the oven carefully and slide them off the cookie sheet onto racks (they cool quickly), then serve immediately or store in a st.u.r.dy covered container for up to a day or so.

Big Beans with Skordalia Skordalia

Makes: 8 servings .

Time: 15 minutes, with precooked beans Time: 15 minutes, with precooked beans