Encyclopedia of Needlework Part 18

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 340. TABLE-COVER IN GOBELIN AND STROKE St.i.tCH.

MATERIALS.--According to the stuff: Coton a tricoter D.M.C Nos. 6 to 16, Coton a broder D.M.C Nos. 16 to 35, Coton a repriser D.M.C Nos. 12, 25, 50, Fil a pointer D.M.C Nos. 10 to 30, or Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 3 to 20.[A] COLOURS: Rouge-Cornouille 450, Vert-Pistache 319, Violet-Lie-de-vin 372, Jaune-Rouille 364, Bleu-Indigo 322.[A]]

FOOTNOTES:

[A] See at the end of the concluding chapter, the table of numbers and sizes and the list of colours of the D.M.C threads and cottons.

[Ill.u.s.tration: INSERTION--PLAIN St.i.tCHES AND OVERS]

Knitting.

Knitting is one of the earliest forms of needlework, and one, which has been carried to the highest perfection. It would be difficult to invent new st.i.tches or patterns and, we shall therefore confine ourselves to describing the st.i.tches in general use, and reproducing those of the old patterns we consider the most useful, that our readers may make their own selection.

In former days, knitting served mainly for the manufacture of stockings, and even now, in spite of machines, handknit stockings, and numberless other useful and ornamental articles, such as shawls, counterpanes, cradle-coverings, gloves, laces etc. are in great request.

Besides its practical use, knitting is an easy and pleasant pastime that can be taken up at odd minutes and even carried on, whilst talking, or reading.

Knitting consists of loops, or st.i.tches, as they are generally called, formed by means of a thread and two needles.

In round knitting, four, or five needles are necessary for the better handling of the work.

Through the loops formed in knitting, being connected together in unbroken continuity, a very elastic fabric is produced, which is specially suitable for making warm, and closely-fitting wearing-apparel.

MATERIALS.--Threads with a slight twist, such as Coton a tricoter D.M.C, are the best. With regard to the thickness of the needles, whether they be of steel, wood, or bone, your choice must be determined by the quality of the thread used.

The accompanying table is intended to help inexperienced knitters to match their needles and thread, we advisedly say, help, as it is impossible exactly to determine the numbers that will correspond, because every hand knits differently, and a loose knitter has to use finer needles than a tight knitter.

Other materials are enumerated here, besides, what is properly speaking, called knitting-cotton, as for caps, lace edgings, insertions and so forth, finer kinds of thread and threads with a stronger twist which show up the pattern better, should be used.

[Ill.u.s.tration: TABLE OF THE APPROXIMATE RELATION OF THE D.M.C THREADS AND COTTONS TO THE NUMBERS OF THE KNITTING NEEDLES[A].]

POSITION OF THE HANDS IN KNITTING (fig. 341.)--Lay the thread over the fifth finger of the right hand, and twist it round it, then carry it over the forefinger, which should be kept close to the work, the work being held between the third finger and the thumb. The left hand remains more or less inactive, having merely, by a slight movement of the forefinger to pa.s.s the loops, in succession, on to the needle in the right hand, which forms the st.i.tches. This position of the hands, which is the one usually adopted in England and France, is the one represented in our ill.u.s.tration. The Germans on the contrary, lay the thread over the left hand, and can move the hands much more quickly, in consequence.

There are some ways of casting on, which can only be done in the German fas.h.i.+on.

To prevent the irregularity in st.i.tches, the needles should never be allowed to protrude more than 1 or 1 c/m, from the work. All exaggerated movement of the arms, which renders knitting a very tiring occupation, should be avoided.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 341. POSITION OF THE HANDS IN KNITTING.]

CASTING ON.--Casting, or, setting on, as it is sometimes called, is the formation of the first row of st.i.tches which are to const.i.tute the foundation of the work.

There are four methods of casting on: (1) crossed casting on, done in four different ways; (2) knitting on; (3) slipping on, also done in two ways; (4) casting on with picots.

(1) CROSSED CASTING ON WITH A SINGLE THREAD (fig. 342). Lay the thread over your fingers as though you were beginning a chain of plain st.i.tches, fig. 403, leaving a long end, sufficient to make the number of st.i.tches required, lying within the palm of the hand. Put the needle in from below, into the loop on the thumb, and pa.s.s it from right to left under that part of the thread which lies between the forefinger and the thumb. Then bring the thread through the loop on the thumb, draw the thumb out, and lay the loop on the needle. In making the next st.i.tches, lay the thread over the thumb, so that the end lies outside. Put in the needle under the front thread and complete the st.i.tch as before. This method of casting on is generally done over two needles, one of them being drawn out before the knitting-off is begun, to ensure a loose edge.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 342. CROSSED CASTING ON WITH A SINGLE THREAD.]

CROSSED CASTING ON WITH A THREEFOLD THREAD.--This method is similar to the last, only that the thread is taken threefold and is drawn by the needle through the loop, which is formed at the bend of the thread. Then you pa.s.s the single thread over the left hand, and the triple one over the thumb, as shown in fig. 342, and make the same st.i.tches, as above.

The threefold thread makes a broad chain at the bottom of the loops.

DOUBLE CROSSED CASTING ON (fig. 343).--This can be done either with a single or a threefold thread. In our drawing it is done with the latter.

The first st.i.tch is made as we have already described, only that you have to keep the loop on your thumb, put the needle into it a second time, lay hold of the thread behind, cast on a second st.i.tch, and then only, withdraw your thumb. In this manner two loops are made at once, close together.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 343. DOUBLE CROSSED CASTING ON.]

CROSSED CASTING ON, FORMING A CHAIN (fig. 344.)--Begin by making one such st.i.tch, as we have described in fig. 341; for the second and following st.i.tches, bring the end of the thread to the inside of the palm of the hand, so that it lies between the thumb and the forefinger.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 344. CROSSED CASTING ON, FORMING A CHAIN.]

(2) KNITTING ON St.i.tCHES (fig. 345).--Begin with a plain crossed st.i.tch; then take the thread and the needle in the left hand, a second needle in the right, and catch it into the st.i.tch on the left needle, lay the thread under the right needle and draw it through in a loop, through the loop on the left needle. Then transfer it as a fresh st.i.tch to the left needle; catch the needle into this second st.i.tch, and draw the thread through it, to form the third, and so on.

This method of casting on is used for articles, that are to have a double edge, (see figs, 355, 356), because st.i.tches, made in this way, are easier to pick up than the tighter ones; but it should not be used, where it will form the actual edge, as the loops are always too open.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 345. KNITTING ON St.i.tCHES.]

(3) CASTING ON WITH SLIP LOOPS (fig. 346).--Begin by casting on one loop in the ordinary way, next, lay the thread, as in German knitting, over the left hand, twisting it once only round the forefinger, then put the needle in, upwards from below, under the thread that lies on the outside of the forefinger; draw out the finger from the loop, put the loop on the needle to the right, take the thread on the forefinger again, and so on.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 346. CASTING ON WITH SLIP LOOPS.]

CASTING ON WITH DOUBLE SLIP LOOPS (fig. 347).--Begin by casting on a st.i.tch in the ordinary way, then lay the thread over the forefinger, the reverse way, so that it crosses between, not outside the hand and the body of the knitter. Pa.s.s the needle upwards from below, under the inside thread, and slip this thread as a loop on to the needle. Continue to cast on, inserting the needle under the front and back threads alternately. This method is specially suitable for open patterns, where you have to increase several times, in succession.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 347. CASTING ON WITH DOUBLE SLIP LOOPS.]

(4) CASTING ON WITH PICOTS (fig. 348).--Cast on two st.i.tches in the ordinary way and turn the work. Lay the thread over the needle, put the needle into the first st.i.tch, from right to left, and slip it on to the right needle, knit off the second st.i.tch plain, and draw the slipped one over it.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 348. CASTING ON WITH PICOTS.]

Cast on as many st.i.tches as you want in this manner and then pick up the picots thus formed, with an auxiliary needle, and knit them off like ordinary st.i.tches.

This method of casting on may be varied thus in the following manner: having cast on the st.i.tches as in fig. 348, throw the thread over the needle and knit two st.i.tches together.

PLAIN St.i.tCH (fig. 349).--This is the easiest st.i.tch and the first which a knitter has to learn. It is executed as follows: Put the right-hand needle in, upwards from below, under the front part of the first st.i.tch on the left-hand needle, lay the thread from right to left under the needle, draw it through the loop, and drop the loop off the left needle.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 349. PLAIN St.i.tCH.]

Plain knitting is employed wherever a perfectly smooth, even surface is required. It looks quite differently on the wrong side from what it does on the right where it presents the appearance of vertical rows of plaiting.

BACK, OR SEAM-St.i.tCH (fig. 350).--You may intentionally knit the wrong side of plain knitting. This is called purling and is done, in the following way: lay the thread over the left needle, and put the right one, downwards from above, behind the thread, into the loop on the left needle, lay the thread upwards from below, over the right needle, draw it through the loop, and drop the loop off the left needle. This st.i.tch is used in knitting patterns, and for marking horizontal lines in smooth surfaces, such as the seam of a stocking, for instance.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 350. BACK OR SEAM-St.i.tCH.]

PLAIN St.i.tCH TAKEN FROM BEHIND (fig. 351).--Put the needle in from right to left, under the back part of the st.i.tch; leave the thread behind the needle, then pa.s.s it from right to left over the needle and draw it through the st.i.tch.