What to See in England Part 3

=Accommodation Obtainable.=--"Red Lion Hotel," etc.

Permission to see the interior of Hatfield House can be obtained when the Marquess of Salisbury is not in residence.

After the Norman Conquest Hatfield, the _Haethfield_ of the Saxons, became the property of the bishops of Ely, and was known as Bishops Hatfield, as indeed it is marked on many maps. There was here a magnificent palace, which at the Reformation became the property of Henry VIII., and was afterwards given to the Cecils by James I., who received Theobalds in exchange.

The town of Hatfield is a quaint, straggling place, with narrow streets and many antique houses. A steep declivity leads up to the old church, dedicated to St. Etheldreda, just outside one of the entrances to the grounds of Hatfield House. The church contains a monument to Sir Robert Cecil, first Earl of Salisbury, also tombs of the Botelers, Brockets, and Reads of Brocket Hall.

The entrance gateway, close to the churchyard, leads to what are now the stables of Hatfield House, a fine red-brick structure, once the banqueting-hall of the Bishop's Palace. This building, with its fine open timber roof, is perhaps the only example of its kind in England used as a stable.

Hatfield House is one of the most perfect and magnificent of Elizabethan mansions in the kingdom. It was built by the first Earl of Salisbury in 1611, and is practically unaltered. The fine oak panelling and carving, the plaster ceilings, and much of the furniture, all remain as they were in the days of the great Lord Burleigh. The great hall, with its splendid timber roof, and the gallery, with a fine collection of pictures and curios, are two striking features. The staircase is magnificent in design and detail, and is furnished with gates at the bottom, placed there originally for preventing the dogs from wandering upstairs.

The paintings in the hall and other rooms in Hatfield House include portraits of the great Burleigh, Sir Robert and other Cecils, by Lely and Kneller; Henry VIII., Anne Boleyn, Mary Queen of Scots, the Earl of Leicester, and Queen Elizabeth.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Photochrom Co., Ltd._

HATFIELD HOUSE.]

RUNNYMEAD, THE SIGNING OF MAGNA CHARTA

=How to get there.=--Train from Waterloo. L. and S.W. Railway.

=Nearest Station.=--Staines.

=Distance from London.=--19 miles.

=Average Time.=--50 minutes.

1st 2nd 3rd =Fares.=--Single 3s. 0d. 2s. 0d. 1s. 6d.

Return 5s. 0d. 3s. 6d. 2s. 9d.

=Accommodation Obtainable.=--At Staines--"Pack Horse Hotel,"

"Swan Hotel," "Bridge Hotel."

=Alternative Route.=--Train from Paddington to Staines. G.W.R.

Runnymede takes a prominent place among the many historical spots which crowd the banks of the Thames. The river at this point is winding and picturesque. Some doubt attaches to the exact spot where John, in 1215, realising at last that the barons were too strong for him, confirmed their articles with his hand and seal, with the full intention of breaking his word as soon as it was possible. It was either on the south side of the river, or on an island opposite the end of the meadow, now known as Magna Carta Island, that this early bulwark of freedom was granted by the king. Though there is strong tradition in favour of the meadows on the opposite bank, possibly the balance of favour is with the island. On the island there is a rough stone bearing an inscription stating that this is the celebrated spot.

The island is now private property. Above it, on the left, is a low wooded ridge known as Cooper's Hill, from which one can enjoy some exquisite views of the Thames valley.

THE OLDEST BRa.s.s IN ENGLAND

=How to get there.=--Train to Leatherhead by South-Western or London, Brighton and South Coast lines.

=Distance from London.=--19 miles.

=Accommodation Obtainable.=--"Swan Hotel," etc., at Leatherhead.

Two and a half miles from Leatherhead is situated the ancient church of Stoke d'Abernon, famous for possessing the oldest bra.s.s in England. It shows a complete figure of Sir John d'Abernoun, who died in 1277. The church, restored externally, overlooks the river Mole.

[Ill.u.s.tration: IN STOKE D'ABERNON CHURCH

Twelfth Century Parish Chest, with slot for inserting Peter's Pence. The three locks were for the rector and two churchwardens.

The bra.s.s to Sir John d'Abernoun on the floor of the Chancel showing the chain armour worn between 1250 and 1300 A.D.

Jacobean hour-gla.s.s stand.]

ST. ALBANS

VERULAMIUM AND GORHAMBURY

=How to get there.=--Through train from St. Pancras. Midland Railway.

=Nearest Station.=--St. Albans.

=Distance from London.=--20 miles.

=Average Time.=--Varies between 1/2 to 1 hour.

1st 2nd 3rd =Fares.=--Single 2s. 8d. ... 1s. 7-1/2d.

Return 5s. 4d. ... 3s. 3d.

=Accommodation Obtainable.=--"The Peahen," "Red Lion Hotel,"

"The George," etc.

=Alternative Routes.=--Train from Euston, L. and N.W. Railway.

Train from King's Cross, Great Northern Railway.

St. Albans is an ancient town of much historic interest, being built close to the site of the old Roman city of Verulamium. West of the town; by a little stream, the Ver, some remains of the old Roman wall may be seen, and the frequent discoveries made there are placed in the museum in the town. St. Alban, or Alba.n.u.s, who has given his name to the town, was the first British martyr. He lived in the reign of Diocletian, and was beheaded on the site of the abbey raised in his honour. The Benedictine monastery which arose became the wealthiest and most popular in England through the fame of the saint. Most of the kings from Saxon times until the dissolution of the monastery in Henry VIII.'s reign, visited this shrine. In later times the Abbey Church was made parochial, and finally a cathedral.

St. Albans owes some of its importance to its situation on the famous northward road; Watling Street runs through it. Owing to its proximity to London, it was the scene of two battles in its High Street during the Wars of the Roses.

The cathedral occupies the highest site of any in England. The square Norman tower owes its red hue to the Roman bricks used in its construction. One remarkable feature is the length of the nave, which is only exceeded by Winchester. Every style of architecture is represented in the interior from Early Norman to Late Perpendicular, and in the triforium of the north transept are to be seen some Saxon bal.u.s.ters and columns. The shrine of St. Alban is in the Saint's Chapel, with the interesting watching-loft on the north side. The west end has been very much renovated by Lord Grimthorpe.

At Gorhambury can be seen the tower of the ruined house formerly occupied by Sir Nicholas Bacon, and visited by Queen Elizabeth. In the antique church of St. Michael in Verulamium is Lord Bacon's monument.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _F. Frith & Co., Ltd._

ST. ALBANS ABBEY.

Showing the Central Tower constructed of Roman bricks from Verulamium.]

STOKE POGES CHURCH, BUCKS

=How to get there.=--Train from Paddington. Great Western Rly.

=Nearest Station.=--Slough (2-1/2 miles from Stoke Poges).

=Distance from London.=--21-1/4 miles.