What to See in England Part 27

An abbey for Cistercian monks was established on this spot in 1131 by Walter Fitz-Richard de Clare and dedicated to St. Mary. None of this building remains, as the whole edifice was rebuilt about 1260. The chief part of the ruins, now standing, is the church, though in 1847, when excavations were being carried on in an adjoining orchard, the remains of the Hospitium were discovered. This was an oblong building, supported on pillars, in which it was the custom for the monks to entertain strangers or travellers of their order. In the middle of the nave are the four arches which supported the tower, now mere skeletons, yet sufficiently preserved to show their form. The walls are nearly complete, and many of the columns still stand, as well as the bases of those whioh have fallen. All the pavement has disappeared, and the whole of the former floor is reduced to one level, now carpeted with turf.

The church is cruciform in plan and measures 228 feet from east to west.

The remains of the dormitory, chapter-house, cloisters, and the refectory, which still has its lectern for the use of the reader during meals, are to be found on the north side of the church. Walking on the walls is forbidden. The vast extent of the ruins of the Hospitium recalls the fact that Tintern Abbey was for a long period distinguished for its luxurious style of living and its great hospitality.

When in the neighbourhood of Tintern one should visit Monmouth for its remarkable old bridge with its interesting gatehouse.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Photochrom Co., Ltd._

TINTERN ABBEY.

The beautiful river Wye is seen flowing just beyond the ruins.]

CHESTERFIELD, DERBYs.h.i.+RE

=How to get there.=--Train from St. Pancras. Midland Railway.

=Nearest Station.=--Chesterfield.

=Distance from London.=--146 miles.

=Average Time.=--Varies between 3 to 3-3/4 hrs.

1st 2nd 3rd =Fares.=--Single 19s. 2d. ... 12s. 1d.

Return 38s. 4d. ... 24s. 2d.

=Accommodation Obtainable.=--"The Angel Hotel," "Station Hotel,"

"Midland Hotel," "Hotel Portland," etc.

=Alternative Route.=--Train from Marylebone. Great Central Rly.

Chesterfield, now the second largest town in its own county, was at the time of the Doomsday survey merely a bailiwick to Newbold, which at the present time has dwindled down to a small hamlet to the west of the parish. In the middle of the thirteenth century a battle was fought here between the Earl of Derby and Prince Henry, nephew of Henry III., in which the Earl was defeated and taken prisoner. It was also the scene of a fierce engagement during the civil wars of Charles I., in which the Earl of Newcastle routed the Parliamentary forces in 1643.

The great feature of interest in Chesterfield is the parish church of All Saints, with its extraordinary twisted spire 230 feet in height.

This "crooked" spire, which leans over to the south-west, has been the object of much discussion amongst antiquaries, as to whether it was designed in such a fas.h.i.+on, or whether the present state of affairs has been brought about by a warping of the timber frame under the outside covering of lead. The latter seems the more feasible theory.

There was a church at Chesterfield in the eleventh century, but the present structure is mainly of the fourteenth century, with later additions. In the interior there are several features of interest, among them being the screen separating the transept from the chancel. This is carved with a set of mysterious figures, supposed to be emblematical of the crucifixion.

There are many extremely fine and interesting monuments in the church, especially two belonging to the Foljambe family. At the east end is a very good modern stained-gla.s.s window, erected as a memorial to a former vicar, the late Archdeacon Hill.

In the neighbourhood of Chesterfield there are a number of interesting places, notably the fine old churches at Old Brampton and Wingerworth, and a small disused chapel with a Norman doorway at Newbold.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _G.W. Wilson & Co._

CHESTERFIELD CHURCH.

With its strangely-distorted spire, probably due to the unequal shrinking of its timbers.]

DUKERIES

=How to get there.=--From King's Cross. Great Northern Railway.

=Nearest Station.=--Worksop Station.

=Distance from London.=--146-1/2 miles.

=Average Time.=--3-1/2 hours.

1st 2nd 3rd =Fares.=--Single 20s. 1d. ... 12s. 2-1/2d.

Return 40s. 2d. ... 24s. 5d.

=Accommodation Obtainable.=--"Royal Hotel," etc., at Worksop.

=Alternative Route.=--From Marylebone or to Dukeries Junction from King's Cross.

The district known as the "Dukeries" is undoubtedly the finest portion of what remains of the famous Sherwood Forest a.s.sociated with Robin Hood and his "merrie men." The name "Dukeries" arises from the fact that within the boundaries of the forest were once the homes of the Dukes of Portland, Newcastle, Norfolk, Leeds, and Kingston. The Dukes of Norfolk and Leeds no longer hold their property, and Earl Manvers, as a representative of the Kingston family, preserves at Th.o.r.esby the traditions of his race. At Welbeck the Duke of Portland, and at Clumber the Duke of Newcastle, still keep up their magnificent homes. To the latter n.o.blemen the majority of the "Dukeries" belongs. The drive round this lovely part of the forest is nearly 30 miles, through beautiful scenery.

Worksop, with its fine old priory church, is one of the best starting-points for a tour round the Dukeries. Clumber House, the seat of the Duke of Newcastle, is 4 miles from Worksop, and orders to see the interior can be obtained from the Newcastle agent, in Park Street, by writing a day or two beforehand. The mansion, built in 1772, is very magnificent and contains some priceless pictures.

Th.o.r.esby House, the seat of Earl Manvers, is not far distant from Clumber. The present house, which was designed by Salvin in 1868, is the third home of the Manvers which has occupied this site.

Welbeck Abbey, the home of the Duke of Portland, is another of the important seats in the district, standing in the centre of one of the finest parks in the kingdom. The mansion itself is not a showplace, but when the family is not in residence various parts of it are exhibited upon payment of 1s., any weekday except Sat.u.r.day. An extra s.h.i.+lling will enable the visitor to view the underground apartments.

The whole of the "Dukeries" district teems with interesting places, ancient and modern. From Mansfield one may visit Hardwick Hall, Bolsover Castle, and Newstead Abbey, beloved of Byron (see Index), while Belvoir Castle (see Index) and Woolaton Hall are within easy distance.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Photochrom Co., Ltd._

CLUMBER HOUSE

The seat of the Duke of Newcastle. It was built in 1772.]

HADDON HALL, DERBYs.h.i.+RE

=How to get there.=--Through train from St. Pancras or change at Derby. Midland Railway.

=Nearest Station.=--Rowsley (1-1/2 miles distant).

=Distance from London.=--149-1/2 miles.

=Average Time.=--4 to 4-1/3 hours.

1st 2nd 3rd =Fares.=--Single 19s. 11d. ... 12s. 4-1/2d.

Return 39s. 10d. ... 24s. 9d.

=Accommodation Obtainable.=--At Bakewell--"Rutland Arms Hotel,"

"Red Lion," "Castle," etc.

Haddon Hall, the most perfect of baronial mansions existing in England, is situated in a wonderfully picturesque position on a limestone rock overlooking the river Wye in Derbys.h.i.+re. The manor was originally given by William the Conqueror to William Peveril, the famous "Peveril of the Peak" of Scott's novel. In the reign of Henry II. the lands reverted to the Crown, and the property was granted to the Avenalls, from whom it pa.s.sed by marriage to the Vernons, of whom the last, Sir George, known as the "King of the Peak," died in 1567. His daughter, the celebrated Dorothy Vernon, married John Manners, son of the Earl of Rutland, and thus the property pa.s.sed to the Rutland family, who are still the owners.

The mansion is approached by a small bridge crossing the river Wye, whence one enters, under a lofty archway, the first courtyard. In this beautiful quadrangle one of the most interesting features is the chapel at the south-west corner. This chapel, which is one of the oldest portions of the structure, is Norman, with some later work. Almost opposite, on the left, is the magnificent porch and bay-window leading into the great hall. It is exactly as it was in the days of the Vernons, with its dais and table at which the "lord of the feast" sat, its huge fireplace, timber roof, and minstrels' gallery. Adjoining it is the dining-room, a magnificent apartment erected by the "King of the Peak."

Here there is a remarkably fine oriel window, richly ornamented with carving.