Reminiscences of Travel in Australia, America, and Egypt Part 12

At 4.30 p.m. our vessel started for the Ca.n.a.l, and having safely entered it made fast for the night, as no travelling is allowed after sunset.

During the evening myriads of gnats and mosquitoes came on to the s.h.i.+p, the electric light being absolutely dimmed by them in many places, and we had good reason to expect a trying night from their presence.

While our s.h.i.+p's doctor and a party of friends were ash.o.r.e at Port Sad they were greatly amused by the attention of a number of Arab lads who followed them everywhere. During their walk in the native quarter the party came upon a great crowd, and one of the young Arabs referring to the man who had been hanged during the morning stated that the man was not an Arab, but a Greek, and proceeded to explain the distinguis.h.i.+ng characteristics of the various nationalities represented at this cosmopolitan port; he said-

"The Greek, he bery bat man, he stab-so (with a vigorous motion as though stabbing an opponent in the chest).

"'gyptian, he bery goot man, he only slap, so.

"English man, he bery goot man (striking an att.i.tude); he say 'Come on and box.'

"English man-he bery goot man.

"English man-he bery goot man.

"Melikan man-he bery goot man.

"Melikan man-he bery goot man.

"'talian man-he bery bat man."

Ending with a very uncomplimentary allusion to our Irish fellow-subjects.

What is wanted to make Port Sad really prosperous is a railway from the interior to bring the produce from the cotton and wheat fields, and then the steamers which bring the coals could at once load up for home, saving the necessity of going empty to Alexandria for their homeward freights.

Last year 540,000 tons of coal were sold at Port Sad, and all the s.h.i.+ps which brought it had to go away empty. But so long as the Ca.n.a.l Company are ent.i.tled to all the Customs dues at Port Sad, it is not to be expected that the Egyptian Government will favour the construction of such a line.

Some of our fellow-pa.s.sengers were members of the Blue Ribbon Army, and although they were by no means obtrusive in supporting their views, being contented for the most part with wearing the "bit of blue"-others resented this reasonable liberty, styling it an impertinence, and formed themselves into an opposition Order, which they called the _Red_ Ribbon Army, and they busied themselves in enlisting recruits. It was noticeable that, with the exception of an old _roue_ or two, only young men with small heads and long legs, who, if they ever indulged in reading, confined their choice to books translated or adapted from the French, composed the rank and file, the officers being older men, who were not often seen out of the gambling or smoke-room. One of these latter was called the "Spider," because from an early hour in the morning he sat in the smoke-room waiting to "play" with any who might choose to try conclusions with him.

The Patron and President of the Society was a n.o.ble lord, and certainly a better choice could not have been made. Amongst the rules of the Society were these:-

Any member found without his red ribbon is to be fined in drinks all round.

Members are to be neither too drunk nor too sober.

Members must never go to bed quite sober.

Members must never refuse a drink.

The President certainly set a fair example in his endeavour to perform the duties of his office, and would never be mistaken for a member of the Blue Ribbon Army, even if he did not wear the badge, for good wine had marked him for its own. Under the fostering influence of such rules and such a "n.o.ble" example, it is not to be wondered at that the Army showed a blatant front to the enemy, and that their proceedings soon became disorderly. At this juncture some good-natured moderate men joined the Reds, with the view, it appears, of moderating their offensive tactics, and the result was a manifesto which set forth, amongst other things-That the Red Ribbon Army entertained no feelings of ill-will toward those who did not agree with them, and invited all to join their ranks, and that they a.s.sured abstainers that there was always iced water on the sideboard of the smoke room for their convenience. One of the chiefs of the Reds was a dark man, already referred to as Cetewayo, _alias_ the Carrib. I one day heard this worthy call one of the Reds to account for appearing without his badge, the defaulting member replying that he had "resigned."

"That won't do," said the Carrib, "Once a member always a member; come and pay up." Yes, I thought, when the devil has once got his claws in a man retreat is all but impossible.

Every one of the young fellows who joined the Reds fell into the "Spider's" web, and were most of them eased of their spare cash through the agency of a pack of cards.

This "Spider" was one day on deck sitting by the side of one of my friends who had just awaked from a doze, to whom he said, "You have had a nap?" "Yes," I said, "Mr. - takes his nap on deck in the face of day, but you have yours in the dimness of the smoke-room" (alluding to the game of "Nap"). "That's true," said he, "I like to play when the light is somewhat dull. These fellows say I am always winning. Well, suppose I am? They keep coming to me, and in Melbourne if they consult an expert on any subject they have to pay two guineas, and I take no less." "You take no less, and don't refuse more," said I. "Exactly, that is just it," said the Spider, and he was said to have cleared out most of the card-playing fraternity. Ultimately, the almost unvaried success of the Spider caused a general feeling to be raised against him amongst the gamblers; but as long as there still remained some who had not been relieved of their money, and others whom the Spider had allowed to win from him occasionally, this feeling did not exist to any great extent.

One evening, however, the Pirate charged the web-spinner with having cheated him, and a general disturbance ensued, the Pirate a.s.suring the Spider that as soon as they quitted the s.h.i.+p he would soundly thrash him with a whip, which he displayed, so we were in hopes of having a little excitement on leaving the vessel. One result, however, was to practically dissolve the Red Ribbon army, and the Carrib then came out in a new character. At the fancy dress ball held on the promenade deck he appeared in a dress suit, and was at once saluted with the cry, "Here's a lark, Cetewayo disguised as a _gentleman_!"

The n.o.ble President of the Reds was somewhat of a curiosity in his way, a very kind-hearted sympathetic man, as many a poor invalid in the second and third cla.s.ses could testify. The doctor told us of many instances of his lords.h.i.+p's kindness in visiting some of the sick third-cla.s.s pa.s.sengers, and giving them dainties from his private stores; and I heard one poor woman tell him she should never forget him for his goodness to her husband. Some of our colonial pa.s.sengers, wis.h.i.+ng to make the most of their unusual proximity to n.o.bility, were too persevering in their attentions to his lords.h.i.+p, and evidently bored him; but the tact with which he "shunted" them, and the studied politeness of his language, did not prevent onlookers detecting a silent "confound their impudence"

terminating each reply.

[Picture: Cetewayo Disguised as a Gentleman]

Once, in referring to the pertinacity of these people, he remarked to a bystander, in a hissing tone, "One _must_ be civ-il." The n.o.ble lord took a great interest in everything pertaining to sailors; his regard for them was evidently warm and genuine. While we were pa.s.sing through the Ca.n.a.l, coming to our anchorage for the night, we found the s.p.a.ce at our disposal was very limited, as the vessels were numerous, consequently our men had to be very active in getting the s.h.i.+p into her berth. I was standing by his lords.h.i.+p's side, looking at the sailors running along the sandbank, carrying the heavy cable as nimbly as though it was a fis.h.i.+ng line. Lord - was delighted, and, turning to me, and in his funny fas.h.i.+on grasping his clothes in front of the place where his stomach should be, exclaimed in tones of rapture, "Look at our _de-ah_ blue-jackets, look!"

His lords.h.i.+p was very popular with the young men on board, but I hope he did not often make such observations to them, as one young gentleman informed me he had made to him, speaking of his past life. "I have committed many sins in my time," said his lords.h.i.+p, "and I hope to live to commit many more."

CHAPTER XIII.

Returning from Australia we touched at Colombo, where my companion and a friend paid an interesting visit to Arabi, who invited them to dine with him. It soon became evident that intercourse would have to be conducted through interpreters, as Arabi understood neither French nor English, and his visitors were ignorant of Arabic.

My friend was an invalid, and the first dish put on the table caused him great anxiety, as it was one which his medical man had given him strict orders to avoid. What was to be done? My companion explained to the invalid that in the East no greater affront could be given to a host than to decline to partake of what was offered, and so, not having provided himself with Jack the Giant Killer's device for disposing of surplus food, he was fain to eat it, not without certain fearful forebodings.

Arabi's personal appearance had greatly altered, he having grown a beard which was turning grey. At the table with him were his two sons, lads apparently of ten and twelve years respectively. On his left sat Fehmi Pasha, a man of very striking appearance with a face indicating considerable intellectual power. Arabi desired to know what the English thought of him, a question which my companion parried by saying the English always respected a brave man. Rising to take leave of the host, my companion patted the head of the eldest boy in a kindly manner. This seemed to move Arabi in a singular way. He rose and said, in a sharp tone of command, to his boys, "Salaam," then, crossing the room and placing his hand on my companion's shoulder, said with some emotion, "Ah, ah, good, good."

Proceeding on our voyage we called at Aden, a dreadful place, without a single redeeming feature, in European eyes. Those of our countrymen who are compelled to reside here in the service of the country are ent.i.tled to the deepest sympathy of every Englishman. The possession of Aden is of considerable importance to England and to India, both as a coaling station and as a military post, although in the latter respect it is of less importance than formerly. The islands commanding the channels at the entrance to the Red Sea are after all the key to the position, one of the most important being the Island of Perim, the acquisition of which does more credit to the _'cuteness_ of the British commander at Aden than to his sense of honour-that is, if the story told of him be true. It is related that one evening, nearly forty years ago, two French war-s.h.i.+ps cast anchor before Aden, and the English governor with a laudable desire to ascertain the object of their visit invited the commanders of the s.h.i.+ps to dinner. Unfortunately for France the officers were not teetotallers, and the weather being hot and the British commander's wine strong, the gallant Frenchmen's tongues were loosened, and the perfidious Englishman ascertained that the mission with which his guests were charged was no less than the occupation of the Island of Perim in the name of Louis Philippe, King of the French!

[Picture: Adenese Women]

Without losing a moment the governor sent orders to the captain of the English gunboat lying at Aden to proceed with all speed and in the strictest secrecy to take possession of the island in the name of the Queen! The sun had risen before the festivities at the governor's residence had ceased, and then with many bows his guests departed to their s.h.i.+ps, and shortly afterwards left Aden for their destination. On arrival, their astonishment and mortification may be imagined when they saw on the highest point on the island the British flag flying, and the gunboat which they had seen at Aden on the previous day anch.o.r.ed close insh.o.r.e. The incident gave occasion for much tall talk at the time on the part of the fiery French colonels, and, not without reason, I fear, gave fresh life to the cry of "Perfidious Albion."

We arrived at Suez in the third week of February, and as soon as our steamer stopped, our old dragoman Ha.s.san came on board with a huge packet of letters for us, and although he had only seen us once before, three years ago, he not only remembered our names but came straight to us and told us he had brought a boat for our use, and that bedrooms were engaged for us at the hotel. We owed all this attention-which was most seasonable, as I was still suffering from the effects of a malarious fever contracted in Australia-to Messrs. Cook and Son, who had been advised of my coming, and here I will say that in Egypt and Syria the name of "Cook" is the talisman which solves all difficulties and robs travelling of nearly all its inconveniences.

On landing we were forcibly struck with the altered demeanour of the people since our previous visit. On that occasion landing was effected under the greatest difficulties. The people seemed to look upon us as fair prey. It was almost impossible for us to keep our luggage together, and the insolent threatening manner in which _backsheesh_ was demanded was not a little disturbing to those who were visiting an eastern country for the first time. But now all was changed; instead of idle excited crowds loitering everywhere, everyone seemed to be engaged in some work, _backsheesh_ was rarely asked for, and always in subdued tones, and one refusal was enough. Even the donkey boys had been reached, for when their proffered services were declined they went away with a "thank you."

The Suez Hotel is kept by an Englishman, and he informed us that during the war he left it in charge of natives, and found everything safe and in order on his return.

On the following day we proceeded by railway to Cairo, _via_ Ismailia and Tel-el-Kebir. At many of the stations British soldiers were on guard, a part of their duty appearing to be the inspection of the natives'

baggage; this was done amidst much good humour on both sides-indeed, all through Egypt the British soldier seemed to be on the best possible terms with the people, as indeed there is every reason why he should be, for it is certain he has been the means of saving the people of Egypt from a tyranny of the worst kind-the tyranny of rapacious pachas, civil and military. With the usual exclusiveness of our nation, our party of four had arranged to have the whole of the compartment of the railway-carriage to ourselves. It is true we paid extra for the convenience, but at one of the stations, the train being very crowded, two Frenchmen endeavoured to enter, being prevented, however, by the Arab conductor. The Frenchmen, with much gesticulation and great volubility, pointed out to the Arab that there were only four persons in the carriage, whereas it was constructed to take eight; the guard insisted that there were eight persons in the compartment, although it was patent to all that there were only four. "Four!" said the Frenchmen. "Eight!" returned the guard, giving us a most wicked wink, which, however, failed to extort _backsheesh_. Ultimately our would-be companions were safely bestowed elsewhere.

The railway pa.s.ses by the field of Tel-el-Kebir, the entrenchments stretching as far as the eye can reach. When my companion went over the ground a few weeks after the battle it was covered with debris of every kind, clothing, arms, ammunition, and other ghastly indications of a battle-field.

In one of the entrenchments my friend found a leaf torn from the New Testament, while only a yard or two away was a leaf from the Koran, and hard by he picked up a letter written in Arabic, addressed to a soldier on the field, requesting him to authorise the writer to collect his rents in Cairo.

On reaching the station of Tel-el-Kebir we found a number of tourists who had come up from Cairo to gather curiosities from the battle-field, but since my friend's visit in the autumn everything had been cleared off, and the new comers were gathering pebbles (!) as mementoes of the famous engagement.

The little grave-yard in which the British troops are buried is situated near to the station, and appeared to be kept in excellent order.

In Cairo, as in Suez, the absence of the feverish excitement, latent insolence, and spirit of unrest, so apparent during our last visit, was very noticeable. There, too, _backsheesh_ was rarely demanded, and most of the people seemed to have something to do.

It was curious to see the English soldiers lounging about the town in all directions. They seemed to be quite at home. One of them informed me he had gone through the Transvaal campaign, but very much preferred the land of Goshen!

While we were in Cairo we often expressed our wonder that the city was ever free from cholera or some other deadly epidemic. The sanitary condition of the streets and public places was shocking in the extreme.

Fronting the Opera House and the great hotels and Government offices are the extensive Ezbekiyeh public gardens, enclosed with iron railings.

Around the outside is a very handsome paved footpath, which, although in the very heart of the city, is in many places utterly impa.s.sable because of the unspeakable horrors acc.u.mulated upon it. If the English occupation of Egypt does nothing more than cause the towns of that country to be properly cleansed, it will be the means of saving as many lives every few years as were lost in the late campaign.