Biba's Northern Italian Cooking Part 19

COOKED ONION SALAD.

Insalata di Cipolle Cotte The onion has been wors.h.i.+pped, acclaimed and vilified but our cooking would not be the same without it!

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS 5 or 6 medium yellow onions 5 or 6 medium yellow onions 6 tablespoons olive oil 6 tablespoons olive oil Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 1 to 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar 1 to 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

Preheat oven to 350F (175C). Cut ends off onions and peel. Fill a large saucepan half full with water. Bring water to a boil. Add onions and bring water back to a boil. Cook over high heat 2 to 3 minutes. Drain onions and rinse under cold running water. Pat dry with paper towels.

Put 2 tablespoons of the oil in a medium ca.s.serole, add onions. Bake 40 to 50 minutes or until golden. Remove from oven and cool. Slice onions. Place in a salad bowl. Season with salt and pepper.Add remaining 4 tablespoons oil and vinegar; toss gently. Serve at room temperature.

CABBAGE AND MUSHROOM SALAD.

Insalata Appet.i.tosa This vitamin-packed salad is perfect for days when you don't feel like cooking.

MAKES 6 SERVINGS MAKES 6 SERVINGS small white cabbage small white cabbage small red cabbage small red cabbage pound small white mushrooms pound small white mushrooms pound Swiss cheese pound Swiss cheese Juice of 1 lemon Juice of 1 lemon 1 teaspoon mustard 1 teaspoon mustard Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste cup olive oil cup olive oil

Remove bruised outer leaves from cabbage. Cut cabbage into thin slices. Wash and dry mushrooms thoroughly. Cut into thin slices. Cut Swiss cheese into thin strips. Place all ingredients in a salad bowl.

Combine lemon juice, mustard, salt and pepper in a small bowl. Add olive oil; mix until blended.Taste and adjust for seasoning. Pour dressing over salad; toss gently. Serve at room temperature.

ASPARAGUS SALAD.

Asparagi in Insalata Fresh, tender asparagus is at its best with this simple oil-and-lemon dressing.

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS 2 pounds asparagus 2 pounds asparagus Juice of 1 large lemon Juice of 1 large lemon Salt to taste Salt to taste cup olive oil cup olive oil 2 hard-cooked eggs 2 hard-cooked eggs

Cut off tough asparagus ends. Using a sharp knife or potato peeler, peel outer skin from asparagus.Tie asparagus together in 1 or 2 bunches with string or rubber bands.

Pour cold salted water 2 to 3 inches deep in an asparagus cooker, tall stockpot or old coffeepot. Place asparagus upright in water. Bring water to a boil. Cover and cook over high heat 6 to 8 minutes, depending on size. Remove string or rubber bands. Place 2 or 3 layers of paper towels on a large platter and place cooked asparagus on top to drain. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

A few hours before serving, remove asparagus from refrigerator. Combine lemon juice and salt in a small bowl. Add oil; mix until blended. Taste and adjust for seasoning. Remove paper towels from platter.Arrange asparagus neatly. Spoon dressing over vegetables. Remove yolks from hard-cooked eggs. Press yolks through a strainer over asparagus. Serve at room temperature.

Variation String Bean Salad with Oil and Lemon (f.a.giolini all'Olio e Limone): Subst.i.tute 2 pounds cooked string beans for the asparagus. Use the juice of 2 lemons and cup olive oil.

MIXED SALAD.

Insalata Mista A mixed salad is almost always present at the end of an Italian meal.

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS 1 large fennel 1 large fennel 2 carrots 2 carrots 1 large red or green sweet pepper 1 large red or green sweet pepper 1 small lettuce 1 small lettuce 2 medium tomatoes 2 medium tomatoes Salt to taste Salt to taste 3 to 4 tablespoons olive oil 3 to 4 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

Cut off long stalks and bruised leaves from fennel. Slice end off bulbous base.Wash and dry fennel. Cut into quarters, then horizontally into thin slices. Cut carrots into thin rounds. Wash and dry pepper. Cut in half and remove pith and seeds. Cut into very thin strips.

Discard any bruised leaves from lettuce. Wash remaining leaves under cold running water. Pat dry with paper towels. Tear leaves into medium pieces. Place all vegetables in a salad bowl. Wash and dry tomatoes. Cut into slices and add to salad bowl.

When ready to serve, season with salt. Add oil and vinegar; toss gently. Serve slightly chilled.

Eggs and Sauces

An egg should have no nationality. What does one country do with an egg that another can't? After all, hard-cooked, scrambled or fried eggs can be eaten in many places around the world. Other special ways of cooking eggs are peculiar to certain countries. Americans eat eggs with bacon.The French have savory omelets. Italians have the frittata.

A frittata can be made with herbs, vegetables, cheese, fish or meat. It can also be made with jam or honey. It is said that the Romans used to mix eggs with honey. Perhaps they were the originators of the first frittata. A frittata is perfect for a light evening meal. It is excellent served cold for a snack or appetizer. In this chapter you will find four frittatas. But don't stop there; try your own variations. Don't forget about leftover meat and vegetables.They go perfectly in a frittata.

Eggs are easy to prepare and economical.They are a complete food with vitamins, sodium, protein, calcium and fat.When an egg is fresh, the yolk should be compact and the white should be transparent and tight around the yolk. Eggs are often eaten hard-cooked in a salad.They can be fried or baked with vegetables or cheese. One of my favorite ways is eggs poached in a light tomato sauce.

Think of a lovely summer day. A day you want to spend outside, gardening, swimming or reading a good book. Cooking is the last thing you want to do. But you have a family to feed-so make a frittata. Maybe the one with fresh tomatoes and basil. It will only take 10 to 15 minutes. Serve it with a green salad, crusty Italian bread and chilled white wine. Then leave the dishes and go out again, pleasantly satisfied. Enjoy the rest of your beautiful summer day.

There are very few basic Italian sauces, but the sauces served with pasta are innumerable. These cannot be termed basic sauces because they are used only in specific dishes.

Italian cooks believe the pleasure of eating is increased by preserving the individual characteristics of ingredients. For this reason, the good Italian cook avoids the overuse of sauces. Sauces for meat, poultry and fish are usually only pan juices enriched with a little wine, broth or cream.

Basic common sense and a natural inclination toward balance guides the good Italian cook. If one course of a meal has a sauce, the chances are other courses will not.Very often sauces clash rather than complement each other. Keep this in mind when you plan a menu.

Here are a few important points to remember about Italian sauces: Use them sparingly. A sauce should enhance a dish, not overpower it. With a few exceptions, Italian sauces are best when not overcooked.Who has not been served, at one time or another, a tomato sauce so thick and dark that it tasted more like tomato paste? Overcooked sauces lose their freshness and individuality. Often Italian sauces consist simply of fresh herbs and vegetables.They are either sauteed briefly or left uncooked.

Only mayonnaise and Basic White Sauce have precise quant.i.ties and definite techniques. The remaining sauces are an extension of the cook's style. Once you understand Italian ingredients and the best way to combine their flavors, you can relax.You will gradually begin to improvise. Finally, you will learn to cook like Italians do, not with formulas but with feelings.

FRIED EGGS WITH FONTINA CHEESE.

Uova Fritte con la Fontina A light, yet filling dish that can replace meat for an impromptu supper.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS MAKES 4 SERVINGS 3 to 4 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 3 to 4 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 8 eggs 8 eggs Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 8 slices (about 8 slices (about pound) Italian fontina or Swiss cheese pound) Italian fontina or Swiss cheese

Melt b.u.t.ter in a large skillet. When b.u.t.ter foams, break eggs into skillet. Season with salt and pepper. Cook over medium heat about 1 minute.

Place 1 slice fontina or Swiss cheese over each egg. Cover skillet and cook 6 to 8 minutes or until eggs are firm and cheese is melted. Place 2 eggs on each of 4 serving plates. Serve immediately.

EGGS WITH TOMATOES.

Uova alla Diavola This is a great low-budget meal.

MAKES 3 SERVINGS MAKES 3 SERVINGS 2 cups Plain Tomato Sauce, page 208 2 cups Plain Tomato Sauce, page 208 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 tablespoon olive oil 2 medium onions, thinly sliced 2 medium onions, thinly sliced Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 6 large eggs 6 large eggs 8 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese 8 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Prepare Plain Tomato Sauce. Melt b.u.t.ter with oil in a large skillet over medium heat.When b.u.t.ter foams, add onions. Saute until pale yellow. Add tomato sauce and season with salt and pepper.

Break eggs into skillet and cook about 1 minute. Spoon a generous tablespoon of Parmesan cheese over each egg. Cover skillet and reduce heat. Simmer 5 to 6 minutes or until eggs are firm and cheese is melted. Place 2 eggs on each of 3 serving plates. Spoon tomato sauce around eggs. Serve immediately.

BAKED EGGS WITH PEPERONATA.

Uova al Tegamino con la Peperonata Eggs and leftover Peperonata become a light lunch or supper.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS MAKES 4 SERVINGS 1 cups Peperonata, page 171 1 cups Peperonata, page 171 8 eggs 8 eggs Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Prepare Peperonata. Preheat oven to 350F (175C). b.u.t.ter 4 ramekins.

Put cup Peperonata in each ramekin and break 2 eggs into each one. Season with salt and pepper. Sprinkle tablespoon Parmesan cheese over each egg. Bake 8 to 10 minutes or until eggs are firm and cheese is melted. Serve immediately.

Variation Baked Eggs with Prosciutto (Uova al Forno con Prosciutto): Omit Peperonata. Line each ramekin with 2 or 3 slices prosciutto, page 4, or boiled ham.

ZUCCHINI FRITTATA.

Frittata di Zucchine It is important to use a heavy skillet to make a perfect frittata.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS MAKES 4 SERVINGS 6 large eggs 6 large eggs Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese 4 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 4 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 medium onion, thinly sliced 1 medium onion, thinly sliced 3 zucchini, finely sliced 3 zucchini, finely sliced 2 tablespoons chopped parsley 2 tablespoons chopped parsley 2 garlic cloves, chopped 2 garlic cloves, chopped

Beat eggs with salt and pepper in a medium bowl. Beat in Parmesan cheese.

Melt 3 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter with oil in a heavy 8- or 10-inch skillet over medium-low heat. When b.u.t.ter foams, add onion. Saute about 1 minute. Add zucchini, parsley and garlic. Saute 3 to 4 minutes or until lightly browned. Remove zucchini mixture with a slotted spoon. Stir into egg mixture.

Melt remaining 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter in skillet over medium heat. When b.u.t.ter foams, add egg mixture. Cook 5 to 6 minutes or until bottom of frittata is lightly browned. Place a large plate on top of skillet and turn frittata onto plate. Slide inverted frittata back into skillet. Cook 4 to 5 minutes longer. Slide frittata onto a warm serving dish. Cut into 4 wedges. Serve hot or at room temperature.

RICOTTA CHEESE, ONION AND PARSLEY FRITTATA.

Frittata di Ricotta, Cipolla e Prezzernolo Leftover frittata makes an excellent snack or a super sandwich.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS MAKES 4 SERVINGS 6 large eggs 6 large eggs Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 1 cup ricotta cheese 1 cup ricotta cheese 2 tablespoons chopped parsley 2 tablespoons chopped parsley 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 medium onion, thinly sliced 1 medium onion, thinly sliced

Beat eggs with salt and pepper in a medium bowl. Beat in ricotta cheese and parsley.

Melt 2 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter with oil in a heavy 8- or 10-inch skillet over medium heat. When b.u.t.ter foams, add onion. Saute until pale yellow. Remove onion with a slotted spoon. Stir into egg mixture.

Melt remaining 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter in skillet over medium heat. When b.u.t.ter foams, add egg mixture. Cook 5 to 6 minutes or until bottom of frittata is lightly browned. Place a large plate on top of skillet and turn frittata onto plate. Slide inverted frittata back into skillet. Cook 4 to 5 minutes longer. Slide frittata onto a warm serving dish. Cut into 4 wedges. Serve hot or at room temperature.

Variation Onion Frittata (Frittata di Cipolle): Subst.i.tute cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese for the ricotta cheese and omit parsley. Use 2 tablespoons olive oil and 2 large onions.

TOMATO AND BASIL FRITTATA.

Frittata al Pomodoro e Basilico The variations for frittatas are endless. Only your imagination will set the limit.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS MAKES 4 SERVINGS 4 medium tomatoes 4 medium tomatoes 6 large eggs 6 large eggs Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 tablespoon olive oil 2 medium onions, thinly sliced 2 medium onions, thinly sliced 2 garlic cloves, chopped 2 garlic cloves, chopped 6 to 8 fresh basil leaves, finely chopped 6 to 8 fresh basil leaves, finely chopped

Peel, seed and dice tomatoes. Beat eggs with salt and pepper in a medium bowl. Beat in Parmesan cheese.

Melt 2 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter with oil in a heavy 8- or 10-inch skillet over medium heat. Add onions and garlic. Saute until onions are pale yellow. Add tomatoes and basil. Cook 5 to 6 minutes or until tomato juices have evaporated. Remove tomato mixture with a slotted spoon. Stir into egg mixture.

Melt remaining b.u.t.ter in skillet over medium heat. When b.u.t.ter foams, add egg mixture. Cook 5 to 6 minutes or until bottom of frittata is lightly browned. Place a large plate on top of skillet and turn frittata onto plate. Slide inverted frittata back into skillet. Cook 4 to 5 minutes longer. Slide frittata onto a warm serving dish. Cut into 4 wedges. Serve hot or at room temperature.

FRIED EGGS WITH ASPARAGUS PARMA STYLE.

Uova Fritte con Asparagi alla Parmigiana Make this light treat when asparagus is plentiful.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS MAKES 4 SERVINGS 2 pounds asparagus 2 pounds asparagus 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 8 eggs 8 eggs Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Cut off tough asparagus ends. Using a sharp knife or potato peeler, peel outer skin from asparagus.Tie asparagus together in 1 or 2 bunches with string or rubber bands. Pour cold salted water 2 to 3 inches deep in an asparagus cooker, tall stockpot or old coffeepot. Place asparagus upright in water. Bring water to a boil. Cover and cook over high heat 6 to 8 minutes, depending on size. Drain on paper towels; remove string or rubber bands. Divide asparagus into 4 bundles. Place on 4 serving dishes.