Itinerary through Corsica Part 5

{ }{53} AJACCIO. The most comfortable way to go to Sartene is to take the steamer to Propriano, only 8 miles N. from Sartene, and there to await the daily coach. The diligence from Ajaccio, after having crossed the rivers Gravona, Prunelli, Agnone, Vergajolo and Margone, and the pa.s.s of Campolaccio, 843 feet, arrives at

[Headnote: CAURO.]

{12}{40} CAURO or CAVRO, 1180 ft. _Inn._ Coach to Bastelica. Pop. 700. A straggling mountain village, commanding extensive views.

Cauro to Bastelica.

12 m. northwards by "Courrier" by a charming forest road, which after crossing the Else at the Pont Zipitoli, 7 m. from Cauro, enters the defile of the Prunelli at the Col de Menta, about 2 m.

from Bastelica.

The road from Cauro crosses the Col Torro, 1394 ft., 1 m. Four miles, the col and bridge S. Alberto, 1710 ft. whence a road ramifies 7 m. S. to S. Maria-Siche and Grossetto. On the right side of the road a waterfall descends from the crest of the Usciolo.

Large oaks and chestnut trees with ilexes and pines are now seen.

7 m. here a short branch road leads to a maison forestiere surrounded by large trees, at the foot of Mt. Mantelluccio, 5515 ft. A little farther a road ramifies 4 m. by the wild and beautiful valley of the Else into the forest of Ponteniello, and where it ends a mule path commences to Fra.s.seto, pop. 750, on the coach road between Ajaccio and the baths of Guitera. 7 m. the Zipitoli bridge across the Else, a short way above its junction with the Prunelli. On the right side of the river is the Maison de Cantonniers of Zipitoli.

8 m. The Col Crichetto, 2380 ft., and nearly 3 m. farther the Col Menta, 2458 ft., from which the road descends to the Prunelli and continues by its banks to

[Headnote: DOMINICACCI.]

Bastelica, pop. 4000, inn, 2400 ft., consisting of a group of hamlets, none of which bears the name of Bastelica. Sampiero was born in the one called Dominicacci, between Stazzona and Costa, at the end of the 15th cent., and killed by the Ornanos in the defile of the Prunelli on the 17th January 1567. The house which stands on the site of the one he lived in bears an epitaph to his memory, placed by "William Wyse, Irish Roman Catholic, nephew of Napoleon the Great."

[Headnote: MT. RENOSO.]

Among the many pleasant excursions is the ascent of Mt. Renoso, 7733 ft., 5 hrs. N.E.

In summer men go up every day with mules for frozen snow. There are lakes on the south and east sides of the mountain, and some fine velvety swards. Map, p. 27.

Five miles beyond Cauro, the Sartene road attains the summit of the Col St. Georges, 2500 ft., commanding a fine prospect of the surrounding country, and afterwards descends to the valley of Ornano, the native land of Vanina, traversed by the Taravo.

miles from AJACCIO miles to SARTeNE

{20}{33} APA, whence a Route Departamentale extends 18 m. N.E. to the baths of Guitera and Zicavo. Maps, pp. 1 and 27.

AJACCIO TO ZICAVO AND THE BATHS OF GUITERA.

[Headnote: BATHS OF GUITERA.]

8 hrs. by coach and 39 m. from Ajaccio by the Apa mill, 1841 ft., then by the slopes of the Punta del Castello, 2674 ft., through a charming country, to S. Maria-Siche, 2 m. from Apa, inn where coach stops, pop. 800. An old lofty building here of granite, with the remains of towers blackened by age, was the birthplace of the unfortunate Vanina, strangled by Sampiero, p. 39. The ruins of the chateau he built for himself in 1554, after his house had been destroyed, are seen on a hill to the left of the road. Coaches for Ajaccio, Guitera, Zicavo, and Propriano. 4 m. from Apa at Campo, pop. 390, the road describes a great circuit to get round the head of the defile of the torrent of Fra.s.seto, an affluent of the Taravo.

1 m. farther is Fra.s.seto, pop. 740. When about 2770 feet high there is, through an opening, a superb view extending to the sea by the valley of the Fra.s.seto. 8 m. from Apa is the Col de Granace, 2713 ft., with a splendid view. Zecavo, 10 m., 2238 ft., pop. 510, on an affluent of the Taravo. Then rounding the b.u.t.tresses of the Sposata, 3288 ft., enter the village of Corrano, 12 m., pop. 470, in a lovely situation. 14 m. from Apa and 34 from Ajaccio are the hot sulphurous springs of Guitera, with hotel, 1437 ft., on the right bank of the Taravo, an excellent trout stream. Coach to and from Ajaccio during the season, from May to September. Pleasantly situated among cork oaks and banks covered with the Osmunda fern.

The road from the Baths of Guitera up to Zicavo, 3 m., follows for about 1 m. the Taravo till its union with the torrent from Mt.

Coscione, whence it climbs up through the gorge to

[Headnote: ZICAVO.--MT. INCUDINE.]

Zicavo, pop. 1500, hotel, 2385 ft., charmingly situated, overlooking the valley of the Taravo, 38 m. by coach from Ajaccio.

From Zicavo the ascent is made of Monte Incudine, 7008 ft., in 6 hrs. Mules can be employed to within hr. of summit. Although not difficult, guide and mule are advisable, if for nothing else than to a.s.sist in fording the streams. After having pa.s.sed the chapel of S.

Roch, ascend a steep mule path, right, among the largest and best formed chestnut trees in the island, then rounding Mt. Buchino, 3623 ft., among ilexes, and Mt. Occhiato, 5749 ft., covered with beech trees, ascend southwards by a wooded ravine between great rocks.

Between 2 and 3 hrs. the Pastures of the plain of Coscione, with many shepherds' huts, are reached, whence Mt. Incudine is seen.

After leaving this the path becomes very bad, over loose stones and across troublesome torrents. These are succeeded by an annoying thick coppice of alders, and then the Col de Cheralba, 6345 ft., is ascended, in about 5 hrs. from starting. The mules are left here, and the ascent is made by the western flank, taking care to make the guide understand that the highest peak is wanted, and not the Rocher de l'Incudine. "The view is probably the most beautiful in Corsica--a vast panorama full of variety. Steep pine clad hills sink abruptly into the eastern sea; glens open southward on a rich glowing valley; the blue depths of the bays are fringed with an edging of white sand and green water. The great granite aiguilles of the forest of Bavella, a strange array of horns and pinnacles, run across the foreground; to the left the long fiord of Porto Vecchio stretches far into the land; while in the centre of the picture are spread out the broad Straits of Bonifacio, studded with pale isles and islets. On the left is Caprera, the home of the liberator of the Two Sicilies. [Headnote: NELSON.] The one beside it, Maddalena, is linked with even greater memories--Nelson and Napoleon. Under its lee, in a bay which Nelson christened 'Agincourt Sound,' the British fleet lay for months before the battle of the Nile, watching for the French squadron sheltered behind the guns of Toulon. Two silver candlesticks on the altar of the village church record Nelson's grat.i.tude for the friendly services of the inhabitants. It was in attacking this same village that Napoleon, in 1793, first saw fire.

For mountain views the Alpine clubman is spoilt, but for sea views, and they are not less beautiful, he must go far, perhaps as far as Greece, to find such another."--D. F. Freshfield, Alpine Club. See map on fly-leaf.

miles from AJACCIO miles to SARTeNE

{21}{32} GROSSETO, 1476 feet, pop. 600; 4 hours by diligence from Ajaccio.

A little beyond the inn is the church, sheltered by large ilex trees, which grow to a great height in this neighbourhood.

{30}{23} BICCHISANO, 350 feet, pop. 1800, where the pa.s.sengers dine.

The diligence then pa.s.ses the villages of Petreto and Ca.s.salabriva, pop. 300, and shortly afterwards reaches the summit of the Col Celaccia, 1910 feet, about 2 m. E. from Sollacaro, pop. 800, where Boswell visited Paoli. Sollacaro is not on the highroad.

[Headnote: OLMETO.]

{39}{14} OLMETO, pop. 1650, hotel. On a hill, with an extensive view.

In the neighbourhood, on Monte b.u.t.tareto, are the ruins of the castle of Arrigo della Rocca. No more beautiful sight than that of Olmeto can be pictured. Immediately below the town the ground dips steeply down, covered with corn or turf; or in terraces of vineyard, varied with large groups of fine olive trees stretching down to the sh.o.r.e. Above the village a vast growth of vegetation climbs the heights. Among huge ma.s.ses of granite are tangles of every shrub the island produces, the wild olive or oleaster being one of the most elegant; while every part of the heights close to the town abounds with little picture subjects, with a clear blue sky for a background.

The road now descends to the coast, and after crossing the Baracci, near the hot sulphurous mineral baths of Baracci, arrives at

[Headnote: PROPRIANO.]

{44}{8} PROPRIANO, pop. 1000. H. France.

Every Sat.u.r.day a steamer arrives from Ajaccio, and returns on the Monday morning. Another steamer twice weekly between this and Ajaccio. Near the bridge over the Rizzanese, are the two Celtic monuments called the Stazione del' Diavolo.

PROPRIANO TO SOLENZARA.

Two and a half miles beyond the bridge commences the Route Forestiere, No. 4, leading to Solenzara, 42 m. N.E. This road ascends by the Rizzanese to S. Lucia di Tallano, whence eastward to Levie, 1970 ft.; and thence Zonza, 2586 ft. The road afterwards ascends N.E. by a picturesque ravine to the Col Bavella, 3965 ft.; whence after descending to the Maison Cantonniere, 1476 ft., it crosses the Col Larone, 2013; whence it descends by a winding road partly by the banks of the Fiumicello and partly by the R. Solenzara to Solenzara (see p. 36).

[Map: Corsica, Central Region]

Shortly after crossing the Rizzanese the diligence commences the long ascent to Sartene, disclosing views of the great valley below and of the splendid snowy heights of the long range of mountains opposite, terminating in the lofty regions of the great Monte Incudine, 7008 ft.

[Headnote: SARTeNE.]

miles from AJACCIO miles to SARTeNE

{53} SARTeNE, 1000 feet; pop. 6010; _Inns:_ Commerce: Univers.

Coaches daily to and from Ajaccio, Bonifacio and Santa Lucia di Tallano. Old Sartene is a town of narrow streets approached by a fine bridge, whence the whole valley is seen down to the Gulf of Valinco. It still retains some towers and parts of the walls erected in the 16th century. The houses are built of rough, dark gray granite, with steep stone steps leading up to the main entrance, and odd Italian chimneys, some in the shape of pillars with curious capitals, others in the form of towers or obelisks. The houses bordering the Nouvello Traverse and the streets leading into the "Place" form the new town.

Sartene to Corte by Vivario,

up the centre of the island. Maps, pp. 1 and 27.

This grand mountain road, No. 196 bis, extends from Sartene, 73 m. N. to the Ajaccio and Corte road, which it joins at the 60 kilometres-stone, on the Col Serra, mile from Vivario. All the diligences between Ajaccio and Corte halt at the inn of Vivario (p. 8).

[Headnote: S. LUCIA DI TALLANO.]

After leaving Sartene the road crosses the Fiumicicoli and ascends the valley of the Rizzanese to Loreto, 12 m., and Cargiaca 15 m. N. from Sartene 1302 ft.; grand view. Near Loreto is S. Lucia di Tallano, 1270 ft., with a quarry of a beautiful amphibole, a variety of hornblende.

The ground colour is grayish blue sprinkled with white and margined with black spots (see p. 37).