Gardening For The Million Part 13

Gooseberry Caterpillar.--To prevent caterpillars attacking Gooseberries syringe the bushes with a decoction of common foxglove (Digitalis), or dust the leaves with h.e.l.lebore powder. If the caterpillar has begun its attack, sprinkle some fresh lime below the bushes, and shake the bushes vigorously, so that the insects are dislodged.

Gorse.--_See_ "Ulex."

Gourds.--Sow at the end of March or the beginning of April on a slight hotbed; pot off when the plants are sufficiently advanced, and transplant to the open border in June. They are well adapted for arbours, trellis-work, or sloping banks. The following are among the most ornamental:--Abobra Viridiflora, Benincasa Cerifera (Wax Gourd), Bryonopsis Erythrocarpa, Coccinea Indica (scarlet fruit), Cuc.u.mis Anguinus (Serpent Gourd), Cuc.u.mis Dipsaceus (Teasel Gourd), Cuc.u.mis Dudaim (Balloon Gourd), Cuc.u.mis Erinaceus (Hedgehog Gourd), Cuc.u.mis Grossularoides (Gooseberry Gourd), Cuc.u.mis Perennis, Cucurbita Argyrosperma, Cucurbita Melopepo, Cyclanthera Explodens (Bombsh.e.l.l Gourd), Cyclanthera Pedata, Eopepon Aurantiac.u.m, Eopepon Vitifolius, Lagenaria Clavata (Club Gourd), Lagenaria Enormis, Lagenaria Leucantha Depressa, Lagenaria Leucantha Longissima, Lagenaria Plate de Corse, Lagenaria Poire a Poudre, Lagenaria Siphon, Luffa Cylindrica, Luffa Solly Qua, Melothria Scabra, Momordica Balsamina, Momordica Charantia, Momordica Elaterium, Mukia Scabrella, Scotanthus Tubiflorus, Trichosanthes Anguina, Trichosanthes Coccinea, Trichosanthes Colubrina, and Trichosanthes Palmata.

Grafting.--The objects of Grafting are to bring a bush or tree into an earlier state of bearing than it would do naturally; to produce good fruit from an inferior plant; and to save s.p.a.ce by putting dwarf scions on to rampant-growing trees. By the process of uniting strong-growing trees to those of a weaker nature their exuberance is checked, and weaker ones are improved by being worked on those of a stronger growth. Whatever form of Grafting is adopted, the inner layers of the bark of the stock or tree on which the operation is performed, must be brought into direct contact with the inner layers of the bark of the branch which is grafted, or, as it is called, the scion. This scion should be a branch of the early growth of the previous year's wood, and should be in the same state of vegetation as the stock. If the scion is in a more advanced state than the stock, its growth may be stopped by cutting it off and burying it in the earth under a north wall until the stock has advanced sufficiently in growth. Grafting of all kinds is best done in March, when the sap is flowing freely. Many methods of Grafting are adopted, the following being the princ.i.p.al:--

Whip or Tongue Grafting is suitable for almost any description of trees. Saw the stock off level at any desired height, then make a deep upward slanting cut through the bark at the top 2 or 3 in. in length, and in the middle of the cut turn the knife downwards and cut out a thin wedge-shaped socket. Next cut the scion in a similar manner so that it will fit exactly into the incision of the stock, bringing the bark of each into direct contact. Bind it firmly in position, and cover it over, from the top of the stock to the bottom of the scion, with grafting wax or clay. When the scion and the stock are united, which is demonstrated by the former making growth, remove the wax and cut away all shoots that may be produced on the stock.

In the French mode of Grafting known as the Bertemboise, the crown of the stock is cut at a long level, about 1 in. at the top being left square, and an angular piece is cut away in which the scion is inserted. It is then bound and waxed over.

Theophrastes or Rind Grafting is used where a tree has strong roots but inferior fruit. The branches are cut off about 1-1/2 or 2 ft. from the main stem. A sharp cut 2 or 3 in. in length is made down the bark of the branches, and the lower parts of the scion, selected from a superior tree, having been cut into tongues resembling the mouth-piece of a flageolet, the bark of the branches is lifted with a knife, and the tongues of the scions are slipped in, bound, and waxed.

Side Grafting is useful where it is desired to replenish the tree with a fresh branch. A T-shaped cut is made in the stem of the tree, extending to the inner bark; the scion is prepared by a longitudinal sloping cut of the same length as that in the stem, into which it is inserted, and the two are bound together and treated like other grafts.

Approach Grafting is the most favourable method of obtaining choice varieties of the vine, or of growing weak sorts on roots of a stronger growth. The scion is generally grown in a pot. A portion of the bark is cut from both scion and stock while the vine is in active growth, and the two wounded parts brought into contact, so that they fit exactly. They are then tied together, and moss (kept constantly wet) is bound round the parts. The union may be completed by the following spring, but it is safer to leave the cutting down of the stock to the point of union and the separation of the scion from the potted plant until the second spring.

Grafting Wax (_Cobbetts_), etc.--Pitch and resin four parts each, beeswax two parts, tallow one part. Melt and mix the ingredients, and use when just warm. It may be rolled into b.a.l.l.s and stored in a dry place.

Clay bands are frequently employed for excluding the air from wounds caused in the process of grafting. These are liable to crack, unless the clay is well kneaded and mixed with wood ashes or dry horse droppings.

Grapes.--The cultivation of Grapes in the open in our cloudy and changeable climate cannot be looked forward to with any certainty of success. Two successive favourable seasons are indispensable--one to ripen the wood, and the next to ripen the fruit. Nevertheless, the highly ornamental foliage of the vine ent.i.tles it to a place on our walls, and every facility should be afforded for the production of a chance crop of fruit. The soil most suited to the growth of the vine is a medium loam, with which is incorporated a quant.i.ty of crushed chalk and half-inch bones. It should be given a south aspect, and be liberally supplied with water in dry seasons. April is the best time to plant it, spreading the roots out equally about 9 in. below the surface of the soil, and mulching with 3 or 4 in. of manure. Should mildew set in, syringe the vine with a mixture of soapsuds and sulphur. To secure a continuance of fruit, cut out some of the old rods each year as soon as the leaves fall, and train young shoots in their places. Last year's shoots produce other shoots the ensuing summer, and these are the fruit-bearers. One bunch of grapes is enough for a spur to carry. Professional gardeners cast off the weight of the bunches, and allow 1 ft. of rod to each pound of fruit. Tie or nail the bunches to the trellis or wall, and remove all branches or leaves that intercept light and air.

The vine may be increased by layers at the end of September. Cut a notch at a bud, and bury it 4 or 5 in. deep, leaving two or three eyes above ground. It may also be propagated by cuttings, about 1 ft. in length, of the last year's growth, with 1 in. of old wood attached, taken the latter end of February. Plant these deep in the ground, leaving one eye only above the surface. Both the Black Hamburgh and Royal Muscadine ripen as well as any in the open.

It is under gla.s.s only that Grapes can be brought to perfection.

Here a night temperature of 55 to 65 degrees, with a rise of 5 or 10 degrees in the day, should be maintained, the walls and paths damped once or twice a day, and the vine syringed frequently until it comes into bloom, when syringing must cease, and a drier atmosphere is necessary; the moisture being reduced by degrees. As the grapes ripen, admit more air, and reduce the heat, otherwise the fruit will shrivel.

After gathering the grapes syringe the vine frequently to clear it from spiders or dust, and keep the house cool to induce rest to the plant. The fruit may be preserved for a long while in a good condition by cutting it with about 1 ft. of the rod attached, and inserting the cuttings in bottles of water in which a piece of charcoal is placed: the bottles to be placed in racks nailed on to an upright post in any room or cellar where an equable temperature of 45 or 50 degrees can be kept up. The system of pruning adopted is that known as spur pruning (_see_ "Pruning"). Mrs. Pearson is a very fine variety, and produces very sweet berries; the Frontignan Grizzly Black and White are also delicious.

Gra.s.ses, Natural--

_AGROSTIS STOLONIFERA_ (_Creeping Bent Gra.s.s_).--Useful for damp meadows.

_ALOPECURUS PRATENSIS_ (_Meadow Foxtail_).--Strong-growing and very nutritious.

_ANTHOXANTHUM ODORATUM_ (_True Sweet Vernal_),--Hardy and gives fragrance to hay.

_AVENA FLAVESCENS_ (_Yellow Oat Gra.s.s_).--Fine for sheep; grows freely on light soils.

_CYNOSURUS CRISTATUS_ (_Crested Dogstail_).--Suitable for any soil.

_DACTYLIS GLOMERATA_ (_c.o.c.ksfoot_).--Strong and coa.r.s.e-growing; cattle are fond of it.

_FESTUCA DURIUSCULA_ (_Hard Fescue_).--Dwarf-growing; excellent for sheep.

_FESTUCA ELATIOR_ (_Tall Fescue_).--Useful for cold, strong soils.

_FESTUCA OVINA_ (_Sheep's Fescue_).--Fine for dry, sandy soils.

_FESTUCA OVINA TENUIFOLIA_ (_Slender Fescue_).--Suitable for mountain pastures.

_FESTUCA PRATENSIS_ (_Meadow Fescue_).--Good permanent gra.s.s for rich, moist soil.

_PHLEUM PRATENSE_ (_Timothy, or Catstail_).--Suitable for strong soils; nutritious and hardy.

_POA NEMORALIS_ (_Wood Meadow Gra.s.s_).--Good for poor soils.

_POA PRATENSIS_ (_Smooth-stalked Meadow Gra.s.s_).--Grows well on light, dry soil, and also in water-meadows.

_POA TRIVIALIS_ (_Rough-stalked Meadow Gra.s.s_).--Fine for damp soil.

Gra.s.ses, Ornamental.--Fine for mixing in a green state with cut flowers, or in a dried condition for the decoration of vases, winter bouquets, etc. To have them in perfection gather them while quite fresh, with the pollen on them. Cut with as long stems as possible, arrange lightly in vases, and keep them in the dark till they are dried and the stems become stiff. The Gra.s.ses may be divided into two sections, viz., those for bouquets or edgings, and those grown in the border or on lawns for specimen plants. The cla.s.s is numerous, but the following (which may be found described herein under alphabetical cla.s.sification) may be mentioned:--

For bouquets and edgings: Agrostis, Anthoxanthum, Avena, Briza, Coix Lachryma, Eragrostis, Festuca, Hordeum Jubatum, Lagurus, and Stipa Pennata. For specimen plants: Eulalia, Gynerium, Panic.u.m, Phalaris, and Zea.

Gratiola Officinalis.--This hardy herbaceous plant bears light blue flowers in July. A rich, moist soil is its delight. It is propagated by dividing the roots. Height, 1 ft.

Green Fly.--Fumigate the infected plants with tobacco, and afterwards syringe them with clear water; or the plants may be washed with tobacco water by means of a soft brush.

Grevillea.--Handsome greenhouse shrubs, which require a mould composed of equal parts of peat, sand, and loam. Give plenty of water in summer, a moderate amount at other seasons. Ripened cuttings may be rooted in sand, under a gla.s.s. Young plants may also be obtained from seed. They bloom in June. Their common height is from 3 to 4 ft., but G. Robusta attains a great height. Grevilleas will grow well in windows facing south.

Griselinia Littoralis.--A dwarf-growing, light-coloured evergreen shrub, which will thrive near the sea. It requires a light, dry soil, and may be increased by cuttings.

Guelder Rose.--_See_ "Viburnum."

Guernsey Lily (_Nerine Sarniense_).--Soil, strong, rich loam with sand, well drained. Plant the bulbs deeply in a warm, sheltered position, and let them remain undisturbed year by year. Keep the beds dry in winter, and protect the roots from frost. They also make good indoor plants, potted in moss or cocoa-nut fibre in September, or they may be grown in vases of water.

Gumming of Trees.--Sc.r.a.pe the gum off, wash the place thoroughly with clear water, and apply a compost of horse-dung, clay, and tar.

Gunnera Manicata (_Chilian Rhubarb_).--This hardy plant bears large leaves on stout foot-stalks, and is very ornamental in the backs of borders, etc. Planted in a rich, moist soil, it will flower in August.

It can be propagated by division. Height, 6 ft.

Gunnera Scabra.--Has gigantic leaves, 4 to 5 ft. in diameter, on petioles 3 to 6 ft. in length. It prefers a moist, shady position, and bears division. Makes a fine addition to a sub-tropical garden, where it will flower in August. Height, 6 ft.

Gynerium (_Pampas Gra.s.s_).--This unquestionably is the grandest of all gra.s.ses, and is sufficiently hardy to endure most of our winters. It is, however, desirable to give it some protection. It requires a deep, rich, alluvial soil, with plenty of room and a good supply of water.

Plants may be raised from seed sown thinly in pots during February or March, barely covering it with very fine soil, and keeping the surface damp. Plant out at end of May. They will flower when three or four years old. The old leaves should be allowed to remain on till the new ones appear, as they afford protection to the plant. It may be increased by division of the root. Height, 7 ft.

Gypsophila.--Of value for table bouquets, etc. They will grow in any soil, but prefer a chalky one. The herbaceous kinds are increased by cuttings; the annuals are sown in the open either in autumn or spring.

They bloom during July and August. Height, 1 ft. to 3 ft.

H

Habrothamnus.--These beautiful evergreen shrubs require greenhouse culture, and to be grown in sandy loam and leaf-mould. The majority of them flower in spring. Height, 4 ft. to 6 ft.

Halesia Tetraptera (_Snowdrop Tree_).--This elegant shrub will grow in any soil, and may be propagated by cuttings of the roots or by layers.

The pendent white flowers are produced close to the branches in June.