Food Matters Part 12

I usually start with extra-virgin olive oil and sherry vinegar, but why not try grape seed oil with a few drops of sesame oil and rice vinegar for a salad that goes with Asian dishes? Add high-flavor ingredients (like spices or chopped herbs, onions, garlic, ginger, or olives) along with the oil and vinegar. Add tomatoes, bits of meat or fish, nuts, and so on, before you toss, or serve them on top of the dressed greens. And if you're dressing cooked food, dress it while still warm so it absorbs flavor as it cools.

8 cups a.s.sorted greens or other raw or cooked plant foods1/3 cup olive oil, more or less cup olive oil, more or less2 tablespoons sherry vinegar or balsamic vinegar or freshly squeezed lemon juice, more or lessSalt and freshly ground black pepper

Put the greens in a bowl and drizzle them with most of the oil and vinegar. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Toss a few times and taste. Adjust the seasoning, adding more oil or vinegar if you like; toss again, and serve immediately.

Whole Grains without Measuring

Makes: 8 servings (6 to 8 cups) .

Time: 10 minutes to more than 1 hour, depending on the grain Time: 10 minutes to more than 1 hour, depending on the grain

One sure way to eat more whole grains is to always have some handy, and that's almost as easily said as done: they bubble along without fuss, can be made ahead, and keep in the fridge for about a week. Once you get used to making whole grains, you'll probably stop measuring. That's fine: the amount of water grains will absorb varies anyway, depending on their age and how they were stored.

My technique works for just about anything, including rice (the exceptions are noted in the variations). You won't normally eat this whole batch, but again, grains keep and reheat perfectly. If you want to cook smaller quant.i.ties more frequently, just cut the amount of grains in half, more or less.

For more about what to do with the grains once they're cooked, see the list on Chapter 10.

2 cups brown rice (any size), quinoa, barley (any type), oat groats, buckwheat groats, steel-cut oats, millet, cracked wheat, hominy, whole rye, farro, kamut, or wild rice; or 1 cups wheat berriesSaltOlive oil, or other vegetable oil (optional)

1 Rinse the grain in a strainer, and put it in a large pot with a tight-fitting lid along with a big pinch of salt. Add enough water to cover by about an inch (no more); if you want your grains on the dry side, cover with closer to inch of water. Use 3 cups water for pearled barley, which absorbs a more precise amount of water. Bring to a boil, then adjust the heat so the mixture bubbles gently. Rinse the grain in a strainer, and put it in a large pot with a tight-fitting lid along with a big pinch of salt. Add enough water to cover by about an inch (no more); if you want your grains on the dry side, cover with closer to inch of water. Use 3 cups water for pearled barley, which absorbs a more precise amount of water. Bring to a boil, then adjust the heat so the mixture bubbles gently.

2 Cook, stirring once in a while, until the grain is tender. This will take as little as 7 or 8 minutes for steel-cut oats, about 40 minutes for brown rice, and as long as 1 hour or more for some specialty rices, unpearled or hulled barley, wheat berries, and other unhulled grains. Add boiling water as necessary to keep the grains just submerged, but-especially as the grain swells and begins to get tender-keep just enough water in the pot to prevent the grain from drying out and sticking. Cook, stirring once in a while, until the grain is tender. This will take as little as 7 or 8 minutes for steel-cut oats, about 40 minutes for brown rice, and as long as 1 hour or more for some specialty rices, unpearled or hulled barley, wheat berries, and other unhulled grains. Add boiling water as necessary to keep the grains just submerged, but-especially as the grain swells and begins to get tender-keep just enough water in the pot to prevent the grain from drying out and sticking.

3 Every now and then, test a grain. Grains are done when just barely tender (they should always have some chew). Be careful not to overcook unless you want them on the mushy side. If the water is all absorbed at this point (one sure sign is that little holes have formed in the top), then cover and remove from heat. If some water still remains, drain the grains (reserving the water for soup if you like), and immediately return the grains to the pot, cover, and remove from the heat. Either way, undisturbed, they'll stay warm for about 20 minutes. Every now and then, test a grain. Grains are done when just barely tender (they should always have some chew). Be careful not to overcook unless you want them on the mushy side. If the water is all absorbed at this point (one sure sign is that little holes have formed in the top), then cover and remove from heat. If some water still remains, drain the grains (reserving the water for soup if you like), and immediately return the grains to the pot, cover, and remove from the heat. Either way, undisturbed, they'll stay warm for about 20 minutes.

4 Toss the grain with the oil if you like, and refrigerate or freeze until ready to use. If you're serving it right away, see What to Do with Cooked Grains. Toss the grain with the oil if you like, and refrigerate or freeze until ready to use. If you're serving it right away, see What to Do with Cooked Grains.

Couscous: Put 2 cups of whole wheat couscous in a medium pot with a tight-fitting lid and add 3 cups of water and a pinch of salt. Bring the water to a boil, then cover and remove from the heat. Let steep for at least 10 minutes (5 minutes if using white couscous), or up to 20. Fluff with a fork and serve as described in the main recipe. Put 2 cups of whole wheat couscous in a medium pot with a tight-fitting lid and add 3 cups of water and a pinch of salt. Bring the water to a boil, then cover and remove from the heat. Let steep for at least 10 minutes (5 minutes if using white couscous), or up to 20. Fluff with a fork and serve as described in the main recipe.

Bulgur: Put 2 cups of bulgur (any grind) in a large bowl with a pinch of salt. Pour 5 cups boiling water over all. Stir once and let sit. Fine bulgur will be tender in 10 to 15 minutes, medium in 15 to 20 minutes, and coa.r.s.e in 20 to 25. If any water remains when the bulgur is done, put the bulgur in a fine strainer and press down on it, or squeeze it in a cloth. Fluff with a fork and serve as described in the main recipe. Put 2 cups of bulgur (any grind) in a large bowl with a pinch of salt. Pour 5 cups boiling water over all. Stir once and let sit. Fine bulgur will be tender in 10 to 15 minutes, medium in 15 to 20 minutes, and coa.r.s.e in 20 to 25. If any water remains when the bulgur is done, put the bulgur in a fine strainer and press down on it, or squeeze it in a cloth. Fluff with a fork and serve as described in the main recipe.

What to Do with Cooked GrainsIn Step 4, use a fork to toss any of these ingredients-alone or in combination-in with the grains and the oil: Cooked vegetables (ideally crisp-tender), like peas, chopped greens, broccoli or cauliflower florets, or chopped carrots or other root vegetables.A couple of spoonfuls of sauce, like any flavored olive oil or any tomato sauce or a bottled condiment like soy sauce or hot sauce.A sprinkling of chopped fresh herbs, like chives, parsley, cilantro, or mint; or a bit of rosemary, oregano, or thyme.Any cooked beans (as many as you like).Dried fruit, like raisins, cranberries, cherries, or chopped dates or apricots, with or without chopped nuts or seeds.Cooked chopped sausage, bacon, ham, or any cooked meat or fish.

Pot of Beans

Makes: 6 to 8 servings .

Time: 1 to 2 hours to soak plus 30 minutes to 2 hours to cook, depending on the bean, largely unattended Time: 1 to 2 hours to soak plus 30 minutes to 2 hours to cook, depending on the bean, largely unattended

I'm on a mission to make sure every fridge or freezer in America is stocked with a container of home-cooked beans, and this recipe is my ammunition-a simple process that requires no advance planning and very little attention, yet provides the backbone for several delicious meals.

Here are foolproof beans any way you like them: skins intact for salads and stir-fries, or soupy for spooning over rice. If you have time to soak the beans without boiling them, put them in a bowl with tap water to cover and set them aside (no longer than 12 hours, or they'll cook up mushy). You can also skip soaking altogether and cook the beans straight through; it won't take much longer.

Some people believe a pot of beans has no flavor without some meat. I disagree, but meat certainly adds richness; you might, however, be surprised at how little meat it takes to do the trick. See the sidebar on Chapter 10 for some flavoring and serving suggestions.

1 pound dried beans (any kind but lentils, split peas, or peeled and split beans), washed and picked overSalt and freshly ground black pepper

1 Put the beans in a large pot with a tightly fitting lid and cover with cold water by a couple of inches. Bring the pot to a boil and let it boil, uncovered, for about 2 minutes. Cover the pot and turn the heat off. Let the beans soak for at least 1 hour or up to 2 hours. Put the beans in a large pot with a tightly fitting lid and cover with cold water by a couple of inches. Bring the pot to a boil and let it boil, uncovered, for about 2 minutes. Cover the pot and turn the heat off. Let the beans soak for at least 1 hour or up to 2 hours.

2 Taste a bean. If it's at all tender (it won't be ready), add a large pinch of salt and several grinds of black pepper. Make sure the beans are covered with about an inch of water; add a little more if necessary. If the beans are still hard, don't add salt yet, and cover with about 2 inches of water. Taste a bean. If it's at all tender (it won't be ready), add a large pinch of salt and several grinds of black pepper. Make sure the beans are covered with about an inch of water; add a little more if necessary. If the beans are still hard, don't add salt yet, and cover with about 2 inches of water.

3 Bring the pot to a boil, then adjust the heat so that the beans bubble gently. Partially cover and cook, stirring every now and then, checking the beans for doneness every 10 or 15 minutes, and adding more water if necessary, a little at a time. Small beans will take as little as 30 minutes more; older, large beans can take up to an hour or more. If you haven't added salt and pepper yet, add them when the beans are just turning tender. Stop cooking when the beans are done the way you like them, and taste and adjust the seasoning. Bring the pot to a boil, then adjust the heat so that the beans bubble gently. Partially cover and cook, stirring every now and then, checking the beans for doneness every 10 or 15 minutes, and adding more water if necessary, a little at a time. Small beans will take as little as 30 minutes more; older, large beans can take up to an hour or more. If you haven't added salt and pepper yet, add them when the beans are just turning tender. Stop cooking when the beans are done the way you like them, and taste and adjust the seasoning.

4 Here you have a few options. Drain the beans (reserving the liquid separately) to use them as an ingredient in salads or other dishes where they need to be dry; or finish them with one of the ideas from the list below. Or store the beans as is and use with or without their liquid as needed. They'll keep in the fridge for days, and in the freezer for months. Here you have a few options. Drain the beans (reserving the liquid separately) to use them as an ingredient in salads or other dishes where they need to be dry; or finish them with one of the ideas from the list below. Or store the beans as is and use with or without their liquid as needed. They'll keep in the fridge for days, and in the freezer for months.

Pot of Lentils or Split Peas: No need to soak, since they cook fast-usually in less than 30 minutes. Put them in a large pot with a tightly fitting lid and cover with cold water by a couple of inches. Bring the pot to a boil, then reduce the heat so that they bubble gently. Partially cover and cook, stirring infrequently and checking for doneness every 10 or 15 minutes; add a little more water if necessary. When they start to get tender, add a large pinch of salt and several grinds of black pepper; stop cooking when they're done the way you like them, taste and adjust the seasoning, and use immediately or store. No need to soak, since they cook fast-usually in less than 30 minutes. Put them in a large pot with a tightly fitting lid and cover with cold water by a couple of inches. Bring the pot to a boil, then reduce the heat so that they bubble gently. Partially cover and cook, stirring infrequently and checking for doneness every 10 or 15 minutes; add a little more water if necessary. When they start to get tender, add a large pinch of salt and several grinds of black pepper; stop cooking when they're done the way you like them, taste and adjust the seasoning, and use immediately or store.

Pot of Fresh (or Frozen) Sh.e.l.l Beans: For limas, favas, edamame (in or out of the pod), and the like; cook like vegetables. Bring a pot of water to boil and salt it. Add the beans and cook until just tender (if the beans are in their sh.e.l.ls, test one every now and then). This can be as quick as a few minutes, and rarely does it take longer than 10 minutes. Drain, reserving the liquid if you like, and serve or refrigerate for later. For limas, favas, edamame (in or out of the pod), and the like; cook like vegetables. Bring a pot of water to boil and salt it. Add the beans and cook until just tender (if the beans are in their sh.e.l.ls, test one every now and then). This can be as quick as a few minutes, and rarely does it take longer than 10 minutes. Drain, reserving the liquid if you like, and serve or refrigerate for later.

Adding Flavor to a Pot of BeansHere are some goodies to add (alone or in combination) when you start cooking the beans.

Herbs or spices: a bay leaf, a couple of cloves, some peppercorns, thyme sprigs, parsley leaves and/or stems, chili powder, or other herbs and spices. a bay leaf, a couple of cloves, some peppercorns, thyme sprigs, parsley leaves and/or stems, chili powder, or other herbs and spices.Aromatics: Chopped onion, carrot, celery, and/or garlic. If you like, saute them in a little olive oil until soft and fragrant. Chopped onion, carrot, celery, and/or garlic. If you like, saute them in a little olive oil until soft and fragrant.Quick Vegetable Stock, in place of all or part of the water.Other liquids: A cup or so of beer, wine, coffee, tea, or juice. A cup or so of beer, wine, coffee, tea, or juice.Smoked meat: Ham hock, pork chop, beef bone, or sausage, fished out after cooking, the meat chopped and stirred back into the beans. Ham hock, pork chop, beef bone, or sausage, fished out after cooking, the meat chopped and stirred back into the beans.

Add any of these ingredients after you cook and drain the beans; the quant.i.ties listed work for about 3 cups of cooked beans, or 4 servings. You might reheat gently to blend flavors, adding the re served cooking liquid if needed to keep the beans moist.

2 tablespoons olive or dark sesame oil cup chopped fresh parsley, cilantro, mint, or any basil leaves2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary, tarragon, oregano, epazote, thyme, marjoram, or sage leavesChopped scallions, garlic, ginger, or lemongra.s.s1 cup any cooked sauce or raw sauce1 tablespoon or so of anything listed in Six Seasoning Blends You Can't Live WithoutSoy, Worcesters.h.i.+re, or hot sauce to tasteA couple of tablespoons miso thinned with hot bean-cooking liquidChopped leafy greens, like spinach, kale, or collardsPeeled, seeded, and chopped tomato1 or 2 slices of diced bacon (or pancetta), or a fresh crumbled sausage, cooked until crisp (along with some of the fat if you like)

Six Seasoning Blends You Can't Live Without

Makes: About cup of each .

Time: No more than 10 minutes Time: No more than 10 minutes

You can make any simple food taste great if you have your own spice mix lying around; a little sprinkle of this on grains, a tablespoon or two in beans-it's the contemporary equivalent of ketchup on a burger. Start with preground spices, or, for even better-tasting results, toast and grind your own from whole ingredients.

Stored in opaque containers in a cool place, these mixtures will last for several weeks. Use along with oil and aromatic vegetables like onions, garlic, or ginger when you're cooking; or just rub into food before grilling, broiling, or roasting; or sprinkle on anything just before serving, as you would salt and pepper.

If you're using whole spices, put them in a dry skillet over medium heat. Toast, shaking the pan occasionally, until the mixture is fragrant, 3 to 5 minutes, lowering the heat if necessary so as not to scorch them. Add any ground spices during the last minute of cooking. Then grind everything together in a spice or coffee grinder until powdery.

Chili Powder 2 tablespoons ground ancho, New Mexico, or other mild dried chile teaspoon cayenne, or to taste teaspoon black peppercorns2 teaspoons c.u.min seeds2 teaspoons coriander seeds1 tablespoon dried oregano (preferably Mexican) Med Mix (toast only a minute or so) 2 bay leaves1 tablespoon dried rosemary leaves1 tablespoon dried sage leaves1 tablespoon dried thyme leaves1 tablespoon dried parsley or lavender leaves Hot Curry Powder 2 small dried Thai or other hot chiles1 tablespoon black peppercorns1 tablespoon coriander seeds1 teaspoon c.u.min seeds1 teaspoon fennel seeds1 teaspoon ground fenugreek1 tablespoon ground turmeric1 tablespoon ground gingerCayenne or red pepper flakes, as needed Fragrant Curry Powder teaspoon nutmeg piecesSeeds from 5 white cardamom pods3 clovesOne 3-inch cinnamon stick1 teaspoon black peppercorns2 tablespoons c.u.min seeds cup coriander seeds2 bay leaves2 dried curry leaves (optional)1 teaspoon ground fenugreek Five-Spice Powder 1 tablespoon Sichuan peppercorns or black peppercorns6 star anise1 teaspoons whole clovesOne 3-inch stick cinnamon2 tablespoons fennel seeds Sesame Shake cup sesame seeds1 tablespoon dried thyme leaves or 2 tablespoons dried seaweed, like dulse or arameCayenne, to taste

Salsa, Any Style

Makes: About 4 cups .

Time: 20 minutes Time: 20 minutes

The formula for salsa is consistent, whether you start with the usual tomatoes, or the less expected radishes, cherries, or something else. Replace some or all of the tomatoes with fruit-peaches, nectarines, plums, pineapple, papaya, mango, tart green apples, grapes, citrus, berries, and on and on. Crisp vegetables (like raw fresh corn, jicama, or bell peppers) add nice texture. And you can change the flavor profile just as easily: Use basil and balsamic vinegar instead of cilantro and citrus juice; or go off in the direction of rice vinegar and curry. The combinations are infinite.

You can also fool around with the texture by pureeing half or all of the salsa for smooth or smooth-chunky versions. In short, there are almost no rules here.