Early Travels in Palestine Part 43

_April 28._-We left Corus; and without the town, about half a mile south-east, we descended through a way cut obliquely on the side of a precipice, which leads to a bridge of seven arches, of a very old structure, over the river Sabon; and about a quarter of a mile further we came to another bridge of three very large arches, over the river Ephreen. These bridges are very ancient, and well built of square stone.

Three pillars have an acute angle on the side against the stream, and a round b.u.t.tress on the other side; and on both sides are niches for statues. They were well paved on the top with large stones; and are doubtless, as well as that on the other side of the town, the work of the excellent and magnificent Theodorit[637].

From this bridge, in about three hours, with a course south-south-east, or south-east and by south, we arrived at Fan-Bolads. From Fan-Bolads to Chillis is one hour and two-thirds, course north-north-east. Chillis is a large, populous town, and has fifteen mosques that may be counted without the town; and it has large bazaars. Many medals are found here, which seem to argue it to be ancient; but under what name I know not.

Aleppo bears from Fan-Bolads south and by east; Seck-Berukel south-south-west. An hour from Fan-Bolads is Aza.s.s; and two hours further we lodged in the plain, which, about Chillis and Aza.s.s, is very wide and no less fruitful. This country is always given to the Validea, or Grand Signor's mother.

_April 28._-We arrived, by G.o.d's blessing, safe in Aleppo, having travelled about five hours with a course south and by east. ???a Te?.

OF THE VALLEY OF SALT,

WHICH IS ABOUT FOUR HOURS FROM ALEPPO.

This valley is of two or three hours extent. We were three quarters of an hour in crossing one corner of it. It is of an exact level, and appears at a distance like a lake of water. There is a kind of dry crust of salt all over the top of it, which sounds, when the horses go upon it, like frozen snow when it is walked upon. There are three or four small rivulets which empty themselves into this place, and wash it all over, about autumn, or when the rains fall.

In the heat of the summer the water is dried off; and, when the sun has scorched the ground, there is found remaining the crust of salt aforesaid, which they gather and separate into several heaps, according to the degrees of fineness, some being exquisitely white, others alloyed with dirt. It being soft in some places, our horses' hoofs struck in deep; and there I found, in one part, a soft, brown clay; in another a very black one; which to the taste was very salt, though deep in the earth. Along, on one side of the valley, viz. that towards Gibul, there is a small precipice, about two men's lengths, occasioned by the continual taking away the salt; and in this you may see how the veins of it lie. I broke a piece of it, of which that part of it that was exposed to the rain, sun, and air, though it had the sparks and particles of salt, yet it had perfectly lost its savour, as in St. Matthew, chap. v.

The inner part, which was connected to the rock, retained its savour, as I found by proof.

In several places of the valley we found that the thin crust of salt upon the surface bulged up, as if some insect working under it had raised it; and, taking off the part, we found under it efflorescences of pure salt, shot out according to its proper figure.

At the neighbouring village of Gibul are kept the magazines of salt, where you find great mountains, as I may say, of that mineral ready for sale. The valley is farmed of the Grand Signor at twelve hundred dollars per annum.

FOOTNOTES:

[633] The district of Daab. So the note in the original edition, but query if not An-el-Dab, that is, the fountain of Dab.

[634] It was the ancient Hierapolis.

[635] This figure was found on the same spot, but in a more mutilated condition, by the Euphrates Expedition.

[636] The Monitor; the same animal mentioned by La Brocquiere. See p.

290.

[637] Few European travellers, either before or since Maundrell's time, have visited the ruins of Cyrrhus in Cyrrhestica, above described; a circ.u.mstance which gives especial interest to Maundrell's account of them.