High on the Hog_ A Culinary Journey From Africa to America Part 6

While the Neelys' food riffs on the cla.s.sic Southern tastes of the African American past, G. Garvin's food and presence are designed for the black audience that watches TV One-the black television station that was begun in 2004 as an alternative to BET. Garvin trained in the kitchen, working his way up the ranks from dishwasher to line cook to sous chef and beyond. After a two-year stint in European kitchens, he returned stateside to work in hotel kitchens and private restaurants in Atlanta and on the West Coast. Mediagenic and as smooth as chocolate creme brulee, Garvin has become a media presence complete with appearances on late-night talk shows, sponsors.h.i.+p deals with food brands, and a foundation that helps young men by teaching them discipline through cooking. Garvin's success, though, seems restricted and has not yet reached the national culinary cognoscenti.

For most Americans, black or white, mention "black superstar chef" and one name will come up-and one name only-Marcus Samuelsson. If the Neelys exemplify the populist level of African American food, and G. Garvin is representative of an increasing sophistication of black viewers and eaters, Marcus Samuelsson is the harbinger of a different African American future.

At the close of first decade of the twentieth-first century, African Americans are more diverse than ever before in history. An African American president sits in the White House. Like the president, Marcus Samuelsson is representative of the new and increasing diversity of those labeled "African Americans." They represent newer and recently arrived immigrants and their descendants, all of whom have no personal link to the history of African American enslavement in the country or the diet it sp.a.w.ned. Samuelsson was born in Ethiopia, adopted by a Swedish family, and taken to Goteborg, Sweden, where he and his sister were raised. The tastes of hog and hominy that were traditionally ascribed to the enslaved and their descendants are tastes he learned as a chef after his coming to America. Samuelsson's culinary training is cla.s.sic; early on he began to cook under the instruction of his Swedish grandmother, a professional cook, and he later trained at the Culinary Inst.i.tute in Goteborg and completed apprentices.h.i.+ps in Switzerland and Austria.

Like Patrick Clark before him, Samuelsson attained fame at an early age. He arrived in New York City in 1991 to apprentice in the kitchen of Aquavit, serving the crisp, clean tastes of Scandinavia to New Yorkers in a decor that seemed transported from the lands of the midnight sun. Three years later, he became the restaurant's executive chef and shortly thereafter became the youngest chef ever to receive a three-star review from the New York Times New York Times. Other accolades followed, and in 2003 he was named best chef in New York City by the James Beard Foundation. Coming from a Swedish restaurant, Samuelsson has been unfettered by the racial a.s.sumptions of the dining public and therefore has been able to cast a wide culinary net. His restaurants have offered not only the food of his native Sweden but also served j.a.panese-American fusion food and the food of the African continent.

Young, ambitious, and mult.i.talented Samuelsson also auth.o.r.ed cookbooks in English and Swedish. The first Aquavit and the New Scandinavian Cuisine Aquavit and the New Scandinavian Cuisine celebrated the food of his adopted homeland. celebrated the food of his adopted homeland. En Smakresa En Smakresa (A Journey of Tastes), published in Sweden, detailed Samuelsson's personal journey of tastes, and (A Journey of Tastes), published in Sweden, detailed Samuelsson's personal journey of tastes, and Street Food Street Food speaks about the snacks that are a part of the daily lives of the world. Samuelsson's culinary journey further evolved when, at the behest of speaks about the snacks that are a part of the daily lives of the world. Samuelsson's culinary journey further evolved when, at the behest of Gourmet Gourmet magazine, he journeyed back to Ethiopia for the first time. The trip proved revelatory and revolutionary. Reacquainted with the continent of his birth, Samuelsson began an odyssey that culminated in another book, magazine, he journeyed back to Ethiopia for the first time. The trip proved revelatory and revolutionary. Reacquainted with the continent of his birth, Samuelsson began an odyssey that culminated in another book, The Soul of a New Cuisine: A Discovery of the Foods and Flavors of Africa The Soul of a New Cuisine: A Discovery of the Foods and Flavors of Africa. A television miniseries for the Public Broadcasting Service, numerous appearances on television cooking compet.i.tions and at food media events, a coffee deal with Starbucks, a new cookbook on American food, New American Table New American Table, and a series of videos for AOL are only some of the long list of projects that have made Samuelsson the best-known African American in food at the end of the first decade of the twenty-first century. Samuelsson has now taken his African American culinary journey full circle and in fall 2010 plans to open a place on 125th Street in Harlem that will focus on fresh, local, and seasonal American foods-the Red Rooster. The location is totemic for African Americans, and the name is that of a legendary Harlem bar. In a tip of the toque to not only the location but also the culinary history of the African Americans who made Harlem famous, the menu will highlight some traditional Southern black foods, including fried chicken, macaroni and cheese with bacon, and bread pudding. The culinary circle is unbroken.

The traditional foods of the African American South, the pig and the corn that allowed so many to survive enslavement and its aftermath in this country-continue to be celebrated in restaurants with white tablecloths and pitted Formica. They appear in cla.s.sic soul food establishments and provide the ongoing themes upon which multiple improvisations are wrought by chefs, black and white. In private homes they're served as grandma's recipes at Sunday suppers and family reunions. The tastes of the African motherland and its diaspora have also come full circle with Ghanaian groundnut stew and Caribbean peas and rice becoming new culinary cla.s.sics. African American food has grown to encompa.s.s a world of possibility and of taste. The United States' increasing cultural diversity, along with the omnivorous curiosity of all Americans, means that we're all tasting and sampling one another's foods daily. A menu is as likely to include Brazilian-style collard greens served alongside Southern fried chicken with a salad of garden fresh heirloom tomatoes dressed with soy and sesame, a side of Cuban yuca con mojo yuca con mojo, and a cla.s.sic Grand Marnier souffle for dessert.

Finally, we seem to be nearing the goal. Sure there's room for improvement. Certainly there should be a greater television presence of African Americans that showcases our gastronomic diversity. Restaurant owners.h.i.+p remains a problem, especially during these harsh economic times. Certainly the scope of the black culinary repertoire should not be limited but rather should be acknowledged. Catering should be valued and recognized as a historic path to success, especially for women, and let's finally get beyond the "soul food" label. We've journeyed far, and the rest is attainable in the bountiful world of American food. It is a simple request to be acknowledged for the integral part that we have played in the formation of the American culinary ethos, to sit down at the table of success with the members of the food community, and to begin to truly eat and live high on the hog. I, for one, am looking forward to it. My mouth is watering and I can hardly wait.

CODA: A FINAL DEFINITION.

African Americans have a long love affair with food, one perhaps unequaled in the history of the country. For centuries we've brought the piquant tastes of Africa to the New World. With particular relish we eat (nyam) "grease" and "grit," whether it's a bologna sandwich and a peanut pattie tucked into the bib of overalls for a workman's snack or a late-night supper of chitlins and champagne eaten off fine bone china. Some of us delight in a sip of white lightning from a mason jar in a juke joint, while others delicately lift little fingers and savor minted ice tea or a cool drink while fanning and watching the neighbors on the front porch. Good times or bad, food provides a time for communion and relaxation.

It's so much a part of our lives that it seems at times as though a Supreme Being created us from a favorite recipe. There was a heaping cupful of cornmeal to signal our links with the Native Americans, a rounded tablespoon of biscuit dough for Southern gentility, a mess of greens and a dozen okra pods for our African roots, and a good measure of mola.s.ses to recall the tribulations of slavery. A seasoning piece of fatback signals our lasting love for the almighty pig, and a smoked turkey wing foretells our healthier future. A handful of hot chilies gives the mixture att.i.tude and sa.s.s, while a hearty dose of bourbon mellows it out and a splash of corn liquor gives it kick. There are regional additions such as a bit of benne from South Carolina, a hint of praline from New Orleans, and a drop of at least twelve types of barbecue sauce. A fried porgy, a splash of homemade scuppernong wine, and a heaping portion of the secret ingredient called love fill the bowl to overflowing. When well mixed, it can be either baked, broiled, roasted, fried, sauteed, or barbecued. The result has yielded us in all hues of the rainbow from lightly toasted to deep well done.

We are now a new people. All the world comes together in us and on our plates: Africa, the Americas, Asia, and beyond. We eat hog maws or pickled meat, potatoes or plantain, sweet potatoes or yams or both. Our greens are collards or callaloo or bok choy, and we serve them with everything from a ham hock to a smoked turkey wing to tofu. We savor fine aged rhum agricole rhum agricole and still know how to knock back a good Mason jar of corn liquor or a gla.s.s of cachaca. and still know how to knock back a good Mason jar of corn liquor or a gla.s.s of cachaca.

With a start like that, it's not surprising, then, that we have our own way with food. We've called it our way for centuries and incorporated our wondrous way with food and eating into our daily lives. We have rocked generations of babies to sleep while crooning "Shortenin' Bread," laughed to the comedy of "Pigmeat" Markham and "b.u.t.terbeans and Susie," danced the cakewalk, tapped our feet to the music of "Jelly Roll" Morton, s.h.i.+mmied with wild abandon to gutbucket music in juke joints, gotten all hot and sweaty over salsa or sat down with friends and "chewed the fat." We've had the blues over the "Kitchen Man," searched for our "Sugar Pie Honey Bunch," called our "Sugar Honey," and longed to be loved like "Lilac Wine." When we found the one, we celebrated with a "Pigfoot and a Bottle of Beer" or just kicked back and hollered, "Pa.s.s the Courvoisier."

In short, we've created our own culinary universe: one where an ample grandmother presides over a kitchen where the pungent aroma of greens mixes with the mola.s.ses perfume of pralines, and the bubbling from a big iron gumbo pot punctuates her soft humming. This is a universe where Aunt Jemima takes off her kerchief and sits down at the table, where Uncle Ben bows his head and blesses the food, the Luzianne coffee woman pa.s.ses the plates, and Rastus, the Cream of Wheat man, tells tall tales over a taste of whiskey to the Banania Man. It's the warmth of the kitchen tempered by the formality of the dining room and the love of family that extends over generations and across bloodlines. With the im-provisational genius that gave the world jazz and salsa, as well as rumba, rap, and reggae, we have cooked our way into the hearts, minds, and stomachs of a country.

RECIPES.

Sauce Gombo This simple vegetarian version of a cla.s.sic West African sauce comes from Benin, a nation that sent many to the United States in the hold of slave s.h.i.+ps. In Benin, it might be eaten over pounded yam or another traditional starch. Here, it can be served over rice.

Serves 4 1 cup water1 pound fresh okra2 medium ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and coa.r.s.ely chopped1 habanero chili, p.r.i.c.ked with a fork Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste Wash and top and tail the okra, then cut it into rounds, discarding any blemished or hard pods. Place the okra, tomatoes, chili, and the water in a heavy saucepan and bring to a boil. Lower the heat to medium and simmer, covered, for about 10 minutes, or until the okra is fork-tender. Remove the chili when the dish is hot enough for your taste. Season with salt and pepper and serve hot over rice.

-The Africa Cookbook: Tastes of a Continent Ya.s.sa au Poulet This is the first dish that I tasted on the African continent, and it launched me on my culinary journey of connections.

Serves 8 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice4 large onions, slicedSalt and freshly ground black pepper to taste5 tablespoons peanut oil1 habanero chili, p.r.i.c.ked with a fork1 2-to 4-pound frying chicken, cut into serving parts cup water The night before, prepare a marinade by mixing the lemon juice, onions, salt and pepper, 4 tablespoons of the peanut oil, and the chili in a deep bowl. When the marinade has reached the desired heat, remove the chili. Place the chicken pieces in the marinade, cover the bowl with plastic wrap, and refrigerate it overnight.

When ready to cook, preheat the broiler. Remove the chicken pieces from the marinade, reserving the marinade. Place the pieces on the broiler rack and grill them briefly, until they are just lightly browned on both sides. Set them aside. Remove the onions from the marinade with a slotted spoon. Heat the remaining tablespoon of oil in a deep skillet, add the onions, and saute them over medium heat until they are tender and translucent. Add the remaining marinade to the skillet and cook until the liquid is heated through. Add the chicken pieces and the water and stir to mix well. Lower the heat and simmer, covered, for 30 minutes, or until the chicken pieces are cooked through. Serve hot over white rice.

-The Africa Cookbook: Tastes of a Continent Rice Gruel This is simply rice that is boiled until it breaks down into a porridge, much like the rice porridges that were served aboard slave s.h.i.+ps. This one is made considerably tastier by the addition of sugar and cinnamon. In some parts of the world, rice gruel is served as a meal for the ill or as a breakfast food with additions that make it either sweet or savory.

Serves 2 to 4 3 cups water1 cup rice2 teaspoons brown sugar or to taste In a large saucepan, bring the water to a boil. Add the rice and cook it, covered, for 30 to 45 minutes, or until the rice has become soupy. You may need to add more water. Serve in a bowl topped with the brown sugar.

Grits Grits are one of the Southern uses of corn that settlers adopted from the Native peoples.

Serves 4 4 cups water2 tablespoons b.u.t.terSalt to taste1 cup whole-grain grits Place the water, b.u.t.ter, and salt in a pot and bring it to a boil. Gradually add the grits, return it to a boil, then reduce it to a simmer. Cook the grits, stirring occasionally so they don't stick or form a skin, until they are creamy and done to your liking. It takes about 25 minutes, but many people like to cook them much longer. If you do, you may have to add more water.

Summer Southern Succotash Various types of succotash were eaten by tribes on the eastern seaboard. They were later adopted and adapted by African Americans to include such ingredients as okra, tomatoes, and even black-eyed peas. This summertime succotash uses okra, corn, and tomatoes.

Serves 6 to 8 6 large, ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and coa.r.s.ely chopped2 cups fresh corn kernels1 pound fresh okra, topped and tailed, and cut into -inch rounds1 habanero chili, p.r.i.c.ked (optional)1 cups water Place all the ingredients in a medium saucepan and add 1 cups of water. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat, cover, and cook for 15 minutes, until the ingredients are well mixed and cooked through. Remove the chili when the dish has the desired spiciness. Serve hot.

Snow Eggs There are few extant recipes from early African Americans. This one is attributed to James, cook at Monticello, and thought to be by James Hemings.

Separate 5 eggs and beat the whites until you can turn the vessel bottom upward without their leaving it. Gradually add 1 tablespoon of powdered sugar and teaspoon of any desired flavoring. (Jefferson used orange flower or rose water.) Put 2 cups of milk into a saucepan, add 3 tablespoonfuls of sugar, flavoring and bring slowly to a boil. Drop the first mixture into the milk and poach until well set. Lay them on a wire drainer to drain.

Beat the yolk of 1 egg until thick, stir gradually into the milk. Add a pinch of salt. As soon as the custard thickens pour through a sieve. Put your whites in a serving dish and pour the custard over them. A little wine stirred in is a great improvement.

-Thomas Jefferson's Cook Book Gumbs-A West India Dish Okra entered the diet of the general population early on, as indicated by this recipe for stewed okra (here spelled "ocra") from the 1824 edition of a popular cookbook.

Gather young pods of ocra, wash them clean, and put them in a pan with a little water, salt and pepper, stew them till tender, and serve them with melted b.u.t.ter. They are very nutricious [sic] and easy of digestion.

-Virginia House-wife Gumbo Peel two quarts of ripe tomatoes, mix them with two quarts of young pods of ochre, and chop them small; put them in a stew pan, without any water; add four ounces of b.u.t.ter, and salt and pepper to your taste, and boil them gently and steadily for one hour; then pa.s.s it through a sieve into a tureen, and send to table with it, crackers, toasts, or light bread.

-The Kentucky Housewife Fried Porgies During the period of enslavement, blacks used what little free time they had to hunt and fish in order to supplement often scant rations. Porgy, was one of the fish that turned up in the pots. It remains an African American favorite at fish fries and Friday dinners.

Serves 6 to 8 12 medium porgies, cleaned, with heads and fins removed cup freshly squeezed lemon juiceOil for frying1 tablespoon seafood boil cup yellow cornmeal cup flourSalt and freshly ground black pepper to taste cup mayonnaise Place the fish in a large bowl and sprinkle them with the lemon juice. Cover and let sit while you heat 2 inches of oil for frying to 250 degrees in a heavy cast iron skillet.

While the oil is heating, pulverize the seafood boil in a spice grinder and mix it together with the remaining ingredients in a brown paper bag. When ready to cook slather the fish on both sides with mayonnaise, then place a few fish at a time in the mixture and shake the bag to ensure that they are well covered.

Place the fish in the hot oil a few at a time and fry them for 2 to 3 minutes on each side, or until they are golden brown. Drain the fish on paper towels then place them on a warm platter. Repeat the process with the remaining fish until all are done. Serve at once.

-The Welcome Table Possum with Sweet Potatoes Skin a possum, and remove the head and feet. Wash carefully and salt heavily inside and out. Place the possum in a deep covered pan with a few cups of water and stew it for at least 1 hour. Then boil eight sweet potatoes in salted water, adding 2 tablespoons of b.u.t.ter and 1 tablespoon of sugar. Place the potatoes in the pot with the possum, lay dozen strips of bacon over the possum, sprinkle the top with thyme and marjoram, and place uncovered in an oven to brown at 400 degrees, basting frequently.

-A Taste for War Calas Calas are rice fritters that hark back to the Grain Coast of West Africa. The Vai people of the rice-growing regions of Sierra Leone and Liberia were represented in the Southern slave census. To them, the word for uncooked rice is kala. The word means "a stalk of cereal" to the Bambara people of West Africa and for the Gullah people of the South Carolina and Georgia Lowcountry, kala means rice. The fritters were one of the items hawked on the streets of New Orleans by women of color.

Serves 6 2 cups cold water cup raw long-grain rice1 packages dry yeast cup lukewarm water4 eggs, well beaten cup granulated sugar teaspoon salt3 cups flourVegetable oil for fryingConfectioners' sugar for dusting Place the cold water and rice in a saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Lower the heat and cook the rice for 25 to 30 minutes, or until it is soft and tender. Drain the rice, place it in a bowl, mash it with the back of a spoon, and set it aside to cool. In a separate bowl, dissolve the yeast in the lukewarm water, and then add it to the cooled rice. Beat the mixture for 2 minutes to aerate it, then cover the bowl with a slightly moistened towel and set it aside in a warm place to rise for 3 to 4 hours.

When ready to prepare the fritters, add the eggs, granulated sugar, salt, and flour to the rice mixture. Beat it thoroughly, cover it, and set it aside for 30 minutes. Heat 4 inches of oil in a heavy pan to 375 degrees. Drop the batter by the tablespoonful into the hot oil, frying a few at a time until golden brown. Drain on paper towels, then dust with confectioners' sugar and serve hot.

-The Welcome Table Roasted Corn Roasted ears of corn on the cob were a traditional treat during the period of enslavement, when they were roasted in the dying embers of a fire. Today they can be done on a barbecue grill.4 ears of corn, huskedSalt, cayenne pepper, and b.u.t.ter to taste Heat the coals in the grill until red hot and then allow them to cool. Grease the rack and then place the ears of corn on it. Cook the ears for 5 to 7 minutes, turning them so that they are slightly charred but not burned on all sides. Serve immediately.

Son of a Gun Stew Son of a Gun Stew was a cowboy favorite that used the less-n.o.ble parts of the animal. It was a treat for range riders, as it was served only after an animal was freshly slaughtered.

Serves 8 1 pound beef neck meat, cut in small pieces1 beef heart, chopped1 set beef brains pound marrow gut, cut in small pieces pound calves liver, chopped1 teaspoon salt3 cloves garlic, minced5 jalapenos, stemmed, seeded, and choppedWater4 tablespoons tomato paste6 cups beef brothSalt and pepper to taste Cover the first eight ingredients with water in a large stockpot. Simmer for 6 to 7 hours, until meat is done. Check the stew occasionally and add water if necessary.

Stir the tomato paste into the beef broth and add to pot. Bring to a simmer for 10 minutes. Check seasonings and add salt and pepper if desired.

-Adapted from Texas Cooking Online, http://www/texascooking.com/recipes/sonof.a.gun_stew.htm Watermelon-Rind Pickles This cla.s.sic Southern condiment reminds of the ingenuity of those who made something from nothing. This recipe makes pickles similar to those served by my grandmother from Virginia, Grandma Jones.

Makes approximately 4 pints 9 cups watermelon rind, cut into 1-inch cubes cup salt2 quarts plus 2 cups water1 cups cider vinegar cup balsamic vinegar2 cups dark brown sugar1 lemon, sliced thin2 sticks cinnamon, crushed1 teaspoon whole cloves2 teaspoons cracked allspice Prepare the watermelon rind by removing the green skin and all but a small amount of the red meat. Place the prepared rind in a large bowl and soak it overnight in a brine prepared from the salt and 2 quarts of water.

When ready to make the pickles, drain the watermelon, wash it with fresh water, and drain it again. Place the rind in a large nonreactive saucepan, cover it with water, and simmer it for 15 minutes, or until it is fork-tender. Place the remaining ingredients, including the 2 cups of water, into a second nonreactive saucepan and bring them to a boil. Then lower the heat and simmer for 15 minutes, or until you have a thin syrup.

Drain the watermelon rind, add it to the syrup, and continue to simmer until the rind becomes translucent. Place the rind pieces in hot sterilized jars, cover them with the unstrained syrup, and seal them according to proper canning procedures. The pickles will keep for several months, if they last that long.

-The Martha's Vineyard Table Pigs' Feet Pigs' feet don't have much meat, just bone and gristle, but sucking the bits of meat off the bones and savoring the chewy skin is a treat for those who enjoy this traditional African American delicacy.

Serves 4 to 6 6 to 8 whole pigs' feet, split2 bay leaves6 peppercorns, cracked cup cider vinegarHot sauce to taste With a sharp knife, sc.r.a.pe the pigs' feet to remove all hair. (Recalcitrant hairs should be removed by singeing or by cutting off the piece of skin.) Place the pigs' feet in a large stockpot, cover with water, and bring to a boil. Allow the feet to boil for 3 to 5 minutes, then pour off the water and the sc.u.m that has acc.u.mulated. Rinse the feet and the pot. Replace the feet in the pot and cover them with water again. Add the bay leaves, peppercorns, and cider vinegar. Bring the liquid to a boil, then lower the heat and cook the feet for 2 to 3 hours, or until the meat begins to fall off the bone. Remove the pigs' feet, drain them, place them on a platter, and serve hot, accompanied by the hot sauce of your choice.

-The Welcome Table Fried Chicken This is my mother's version of the cla.s.sic Southern dish.

Serves 4 to 6 2-to 3-pound frying chicken, cut into piecesVegetable oil for frying cup flour cup white cornmeal1 tablespoons Bell's seasoningSalt and freshly ground black pepper to taste Wash the chicken pieces thoroughly and pat them dry with paper towels. Place the remaining ingredients in a brown paper bag and shake the bag to mix them well. Then add the chicken pieces to the bag a few at a time and shake it to ensure that each piece is well coated with the mix. Heat the oil to 350 degrees in a heavy cast iron skillet. Place the chicken pieces in the skillet and fry, uncovered, for 15 to 20 minutes, turning the chicken as it browns. Check for doneness by p.r.i.c.king the chicken with a fork; the juices should run clear with no trace of blood. Remove the chicken and drain the pieces on paper towels. Serve hot, warm, or at room temperature.

Note: The chicken is traditionally drained on pieces of brown paper bag, not on paper towels, but the latter will do just fine.

-The Welcome Table Macaroni and Cheese This dish is an African American cla.s.sic. It has deeper roots in the culinary repertoire than is usually a.s.sumed and even turns up in other locales in the African diaspora like Barbados, where it is known as macaroni pie.

Cook macaroni broken up into short length in boiling salted water. Boil uncovered for twenty or thirty minutes, then drain. Fill a b.u.t.tered pudding dish with alternate layers of macaroni and grated cheese, sprinkling pepper, salt, and melted b.u.t.ter over each layer. Have top layer of cheese, moisten with rich milk, bake in moderate oven until a rich brown.

-Rufus Estes' Good Things to Eat Bean Pie This is a variation of the bean pie that represented the Nation of Islam to many. It was sold on the streets and in restaurants run by mosques around the country. This version was given to me by my friend Charlotte Lyons, who is the food editor of Ebony magazine.

Makes one 9-inch pie 1 9-inch pie sh.e.l.l, baked for 10 minutes and cooled2 (15-ounce) cans great northern beans, drained3 eggs, slightly beaten1 cups sugar cup unsalted b.u.t.ter1 teaspoon vanilla extract1 teaspoon ground cinnamon1 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg teaspoon freshly ground allspice1 teaspoon baking powder cup evaporated milk Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Place the drained beans in a bowl and beat them with an electric mixer until they are smooth. Add the eggs, sugar, b.u.t.ter, vanilla, and spices. In a separate bowl, add the baking powder to the evaporated milk and pour it into the bean mixture. Beat the mixture well and then pour it into the partially baked pie sh.e.l.l. Bake the pie for 50 minutes, or until it is firm. Allow the pie to cool before serving.

-The Welcome Table Smothered Pork Chops It's all about the gravy in these traditional pork chops. In this recipe, the gravy is almost stewlike and flavored with clove, cinnamon, and allspice.

Serves 4 to 6 6 (1-inch thick) center-cut pork chops3 tablespoons bacon drippings1 lemon, thinly sliced2 medium onions, thinly sliced1 small green bell pepper, cored and sliced into rings1 small red bell pepper, cored and sliced into rings4 large ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and coa.r.s.ely chopped1 cup water2 tablespoons distilled white vinegarPinch of ground clovePinch of ground cinnamonPinch of ground allspicePinch of celery seedPinch of cayenne pepper2 tablespoons sugarSalt and freshly ground black pepper to taste In a heavy skillet, brown the pork chops in the bacon drippings. Add the lemon, the onion, and the bell pepper slices and continue to saute. In a small bowl, mix the tomatoes, water, vinegar, spices, sugar, and salt and pepper until they become a thick sauce and pour it over the pork chops. Cover the skillet and simmer the chops over medium heat for 45 minutes, or until they are tender and the tomato mixture has turned into a thick gravylike sauce.

-The Welcome Table Brazilian Greens In the twenty-first century, we have learned that not all greens are cooked with bacon drippings and a ham hock. This is the way that they accompany feijoada, the national dish of Brazil. The greens may be kale or collards or a mix, but I prefer to use collards.

Serves 4 to 6 2 pounds fresh young collard greens3 tablespoons olive oil8 cloves garlic, or to taste, minced1 to 2 tablespoons waterHot sauce to taste Wash the collard greens thoroughly and bunch the leaves together. Take the bunch, roll it tightly, and cut it crosswise into thin strips. (This is a method that the French call en chiffonade en chiffonade.) Heat the oil in a large, heavy skillet over medium heat, then cook the garlic, stirring it until it's only slightly browned. Add the collard strips and cook them, stirring constantly for 5 minutes, so that the greens are soft but retain their bright color. Add a tablespoon or two of water, cover, lower the heat, and continue to cook for 2 minutes. Serve hot with the hot sauce of your choice.

-Tasting Brazil Grandma Harris's Greens My Grandma Harris didn't just use one green in this recipe. Instead, she prepared a mixture of bitey mustard greens and turnip greens along with the more cla.s.sic collards. They were fantastic.

Serves 6 4 pounds mixed collard, mustard, and turnip greens8 strips bacon6 cups waterSalt and freshly ground black pepper to tasteFor serving:Hot sauceChopped onionsBalsamic vinegar Wash the greens well, picking them over to remove any brown spots or blemishes, then drain them well, cut out the thick central stems, and tear the greens into bite-size pieces. Place the bacon strips in a large, heavy saucepan and cook them over medium heat until they are translucent and the bottom of the pan is covered with the rendered bacon fat. Add the greens and the water and bring to a boil over medium heat. Reduce the heat to low and continue to cook, covered, until the greens are tender-about 2 hours. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Serve the greens hot, accompanied by hot sauce, chopped onions, and vinegar.

Note: In some parts of the South, cooks add a pinch of sugar to their greens. My grandmother did not.

Garlic-, Rosemary-, and Lavender-Scented Leg of Lamb with Spicy Mint Sauce This is a leg of lamb that might currently turn up on my table for a party or a Sunday dinner.

Serves 6 to 8 4-to 5-pound shank-end-half leg of lamb6 large garlic cloves1 teaspoon dry lavender1 tablespoon stripped fresh thyme2 tablespoons sea salt2 tablespoons mixed peppercorns1 tablespoon thyme1 tablespoon herbes de provence Preheat the oven to 450 degrees. Trim all the excess fat and fell from the leg of lamb, then pierce the lamb skin with 15 or so small incisions. Place the garlic, lavender, and thyme in a small food processor and pulse until you have a thick paste. Place a bit of the paste into each of the incisions in the lamb. Lace the remaining dry ingredients together in a spice mill and pulse until you have a coa.r.s.e mix. Rub the mix all over the lamb, covering it entirely. Place the lamb on a grill rack in a roasting pan and place it in the oven. Cook at 450 degrees for 15 minutes, then lower the heat to 350 degrees and continue to cook for 1 hour, or until the internal temperature registers 140 degrees for rare, 150 degrees for medium rare, or 160 degrees for well done on a meat thermometer. (Cooking times will vary according to the shape of the lamb and the heat of your oven.) When it's done, allow the meat to rest for 15 minutes, then carve it parallel to the bone in long thin slices and serve warm with Mint Sauce (see below).

Mint Sauce 1 jar mint jelly1 small jalapeno chili, or to taste, minced2 tablespoons dark rum Place the mint jelly in a small saucepan with the jalapeno chili and rum and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the sauce is warmed through. Serve warm in a sauceboat to accompany the lamb.

-The Martha's Vineyard Table

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS.

High on the Hog is a work that has been in my head for decades, so it is impossible to acknowledge all who contributed to it personally and by name. You know who you are and please know that I am grateful for the conversations held, the meals shared, the sustaining phone calls, and more. I must also acknowledge all those who came before me in the area of food history and especially the trailblazers in the area of African American food history; I am only a link in the chain. is a work that has been in my head for decades, so it is impossible to acknowledge all who contributed to it personally and by name. You know who you are and please know that I am grateful for the conversations held, the meals shared, the sustaining phone calls, and more. I must also acknowledge all those who came before me in the area of food history and especially the trailblazers in the area of African American food history; I am only a link in the chain.

Some, though, must be thanked by name, and so I want to express my deep grat.i.tude to those who helped me with research: Jan Bradford, Patricia Hopkins, Daniel Hammer, Georgia Chadwick, John T. Edge, Novelette Brown, Nishani Frasier, s.h.i.+rley Sands, Susan Tucker, Karen Leatham, and librarians and research a.s.sistants, bookstore owners, postcard vendors, antique dealers, colleagues, and others. To all my editors past and present who have made me a better writer: Judith Kern, Pam Hoenig, Sydny Miner, Bill LeBlond, Robert Christgau, David Johnson, Audrey Peterson, and Corie Brown and the folks at Zesterdaily.com.

Thanks are also due my multi-continental extended "family," who nourished me both physically and mentally during the writing of this book, including in New York, Jane Daniels Lear and Sam Lear, Elaine Greenstein and Jose Medina, Jacqueline and Bill Reeves, Vanessa Abukusumo and family, William Freeman, Cheikh Oumar Thiam and family, Makale Faber Cullen and Rico Cullen, Yvette Burgess Polcyn and family, Martha Mae Jones, Thomas Jayne and Rick Ellis, Tom Gibson, Linda Cohen, s.h.i.+kha Dalal and family, Vasu Varadan, and my friend, counselor, and quiet mentor Maya Angelou. A tip of the hat to Eddie Garcia, mailman extraordinaire, and my neighbors the Payne Hall family, especially "Miss" Julia, who is my cats' new G.o.dmother. Friends and colleagues at Queens College and Dillard University have been especially helpful, particularly their respective presidents, Jim Muyskens and Marvalene Hughes, and Nancy Comley, Frank Franklin, Michael Cogswell, Ricky Riccardi, Danille Taylor, Tony King, David V. Taylor, Bettye Parker Smith, Jerry Ward, Gail Bowman, Zena Ezeb, and Corthel Clark. In New Orleans, the Costa family, Gail McDonough, Leah Chase and family, Lolis Eric Elie and family, Ron and Nancy Harrell, Michele and Ulrick Jean Pierre, Ann and Matt Konigsmark and family, Liz Williams, Daphne Derven, John Batty, Poppy Tooker, Ken Smith, Simon and Sh.e.l.ly Gunning, Michael Sartisky, Nadine and Simon Blake, Priscilla and John Lawrence and the team at HNOC, Kerry Moody, Patrick Dunne, and the Lucullus ladies-Roberta, Rebecca, and Mich.e.l.le-all aided, abetted, and suffered through my madness. The Charleston Crew, including Mitch.e.l.l and Randall, Kit and Mary, Nichole Greene, Lou Hammond, and Elizabeth and Paul Kitchen, keep me smiling always. The Martha's Vineyard contingent, Olive Tomlinson, Keren Tonnensen, Mitzi and Flip, Gretchen Tucker Underwood, Madelon Stent Gibell and Ron Gibell, "Aunt" Vivian Dougla.s.s, Charlayne Hunter-Gault and Ron Gault, Holly Nadler, Doug Best, Rhonda Conley, David Amaral, Anne Patrick, Daryl Alexander, Ron and Paula, Ron and Anne, and the Blitzer family, haul me around and drag me away from my computer when I get too serious.

Thanks are also due those who started me on my journey by giving me my first tastes of the food of the continent of my ancestors: In Benin, the Komaclo, Houemavo, and Grimaud clans, especially Theodora, Theophile Linda, Alain, Yves, Serge, Aimee, Albert, Christo, Alexi, and Bobby. In Senegal, Anna Kamara and Nichole Ndongo Cool-long-lost sisters recently returned to the fold. My spiritual family at Casa Branca do Engenho Velho continues to sustain me, especially Mae Tata, Sinha, Gersoney, and Belo. Friends far and near like Peter Patout, Patricia Wilson, Patricia Lawrence and Noel, John Martin Taylor, Maricel Presilla, Judith Carney, Dr. Debbie, Fritz Blank, William Woys Weaver, and Martha Rose Schulman became involved with this project, and I thank them as well. There is always someone whom I inadvertently forgot; if it is you, please know that it is not through lack of grat.i.tude. I could have not done this without the daily support of "my" universe.

Finally, abundant thanks are due Susan Ginsburg, my agent, who worked tirelessly to make this pig kosher, and her a.s.sistant, Bethany, who on paper and on the phone always recognized my voice, and newly arrived Carrie, who reminds me "no worries." To all of the team at Bloomsbury-publisher George Gibson, who paired me with Kathy Belden; Mike O'Connor, who understood; Sabrina Farber, who holds the piggy's purse strings; Peter Miller and Jonathan Kroberger, who got the word out about the pig; Laura Phillips, who kept the pig moving; my appreciative copyeditor, Maureen Klier; and especially Kathy Belden, editor become friend, who believed in me and in this project even when I doubted myself. She encouraged me daily, corrected and counseled me almost as often, and in the end got this little piggy to market!

It seemed at times during the three-year period that I spent writing this book that I'd dropped out of my own life- To those who missed me-I'm back.

To those who sustained me-I am more grateful than I can ever express.

To those who have appeared or re-appeared along the way-Welcome to my world!

FURTHER READING.

The following is a by-no-means exhaustive listing of some of the works I consulted in writing High on the Hog High on the Hog. A more complete listing is posted on my Web site www.africooks.com.

Abrahams, Roger D. Singing the Master: The Emergence of African American Culture in the Plantation South Singing the Master: The Emergence of African American Culture in the Plantation South. New York: Pantheon, 1992.Banks, Katherine Bell, with Robert C. Hayden. William E.B. Du Bois: Family and Friends.h.i.+p: Another Side of the Man William E.B. Du Bois: Family and Friends.h.i.+p: Another Side of the Man. Littleton, MA: Tapestry Press, 2004.Bascom, Lionel, ed. A Renaissance in Harlem: Lost Essays of the WPA, by Ralph Ellison, Dorothy West, and Other Voices of a Generation A Renaissance in Harlem: Lost Essays of the WPA, by Ralph Ellison, Dorothy West, and Other Voices of a Generation. Cambridge, MA: Bascom, 2007.Beckles, Hilary McD., and Verene A. Shepherd. Trading Souls: Europe's Transatlantic Trade in Africans Trading Souls: Europe's Transatlantic Trade in Africans. Kingston: Ian Randle, 2007.Berlin, Ira, et al. Free at Last: A Doc.u.mentary History of Slavery, Freedom, and the Civil War Free at Last: A Doc.u.mentary History of Slavery, Freedom, and the Civil War. NewYork: New Press, 1992.Berlin, Ira, and Leslie M. Harris, eds. Slavery in New York Slavery in New York. New York: New Press, 2005.Berzok, Linda Murray. American Indian Food American Indian Food. Westport, CT: Greenwood, 2005.Bla.s.singame, John W. The Slave Community: Plantation Life in the Antebellum South The Slave Community: Plantation Life in the Antebellum South. New York: Oxford University Press, 1979.Boilat, Abbe David. Esquisses Senegalaises Esquisses Senegalaises. 1853. Dakar: Karthala, 1984.Bolster, W. Jeffrey. Black Jacks: African American Seamen in the Age of Sail Black Jacks: African American Seamen in the Age of Sail. Cambridge, MA: Harvard University Press, 1997.Bower, Anne L. African American Foodways: Explorations of History and Culture African American Foodways: Explorations of History and Culture. Urbana: University of Illinois Press, 2007.Boyd, Herb, ed. The Harlem Reader: A Celebration of New York's Most Famous Neighborhood from the Renaissance Years to the 21st Century The Harlem Reader: A Celebration of New York's Most Famous Neighborhood from the Renaissance Years to the 21st Century. New York: Three Rivers Press, 2003.Buckingham, J. S. A Journey Through the Slave States of North America A Journey Through the Slave States of North America. 1842. Charleston, SC: History Press, 2006.Burnside, Madeline, and Rosemarie Robotham. Spirits of the Pa.s.sage: The Transatlantic Slave Trade in the Seventeenth Century Spirits of the Pa.s.sage: The Transatlantic Slave Trade in the Seventeenth Century. New York: Simon & Schuster, 1997.Campbell, Edward D. C. Jr., and Kym S. Rice, eds. Before Freedom Came: African-American Life in the Antebellum South Before Freedom Came: African-American Life in the Antebellum South. Richmond and Charlottesville, VA: Museum of the Confederacy and the University Press of Virginia, 1991.Carney, Judith. Black Rice: The African Origins of Rice Cultivation in the Americas Black Rice: The African Origins of Rice Cultivation in the Americas. Cambridge: Harvard University Press, 2001.Carney, Judith, and Richard Nicholas Rosomoff. In the Shadow of Slavery: Africa's Botanical Legacy in the Atlantic World In the Shadow of Slavery: Africa's Botanical Legacy in the Atlantic World. Berkeley: University of California Press, 2009.Carretta, Vincent. Equiano the African: Biography of a Self-made Man Equiano the African: Biography of a Self-made Man. Athens: University of Georgia Press, 2005.Chesnais, Robert. Introduction. In Louis XIV: Le Code Noir Louis XIV: Le Code Noir. Paris: L'Esprit Frappeur, 1998.Clinton, Catherine. Tara Revisited: Women, War and the Plantation Legend Tara Revisited: Women, War and the Plantation Legend. New York: Abbeville, 1995.Confederate Receipt Book: A Compilation of Over One Hundred Receipts, Adapted to the Times. Athens: University of Georgia Press, 1960.Conneau, Theophilus. A Slaver's Log Book; Or, 20 Years Residence in Africa A Slaver's Log Book; Or, 20 Years Residence in Africa. Introduction by Mabel M. Smythe. 1853. Englewood Cliffs, NJ: Prentice Hall, 1976.Coules, Victoria. The Trade: Bristol and the Transatlantic Slave Trade The Trade: Bristol and the Transatlantic Slave Trade. Edinburgh: Birlinn, 2007.Covey, Cyclone, ed. Cabeza de Vaca's Adventures in the Unknown Interior Cabeza de Vaca's Adventures in the Unknown Interior. Translated by Cyclone Covey. Albuquerque: University of New Mexico Press, 1983.Crew, Spencer, and Cynthia Goodman. Introduction. In Unchained Memories: Readings from the Slave Narratives Unchained Memories: Readings from the Slave Narratives. New York: Bullfinch, 2002.Curtin, Philip D. The Atlantic Slave Trade: A Census The Atlantic Slave Trade: A Census. Madison: University of Wisconsin Press, 1969.Davis, William C. A Taste for War: The Culinary History of the Blue and the Gray A Taste for War: The Culinary History of the Blue and the Gray. Mechanicsburg, PA: Stackpole, 2003.Delcourt, Jean. La turbulente histoire de Goree La turbulente histoire de Goree. Dakar: Clairafrique, 1982.Dodson, Howard, and Sylviane Dioup. In Motion: The African American Experience In Motion: The African American Experience. Was.h.i.+ngton, D.C.: National Geographic, 2004.Dow, George Francis. Slave s.h.i.+ps and Slaving Slave s.h.i.+ps and Slaving. 1927. Mineola, NY: Dover, 2002.Du Bois, W. E. B. The Philadelphia Negro: A Social Study The Philadelphia Negro: A Social Study. 1899. Introduction by Elijah Anderson. Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 1996.Eden, Trudy. The Early American Table: Food and Society in the New World The Early American Table: Food and Society in the New World. DeKalb: Northern Illinois University Press, 2008.Ellison, Ralph. Invisible Man Invisible Man. 1947. New York: Modern Library, 1994.Eltis, David. The Rise of African Slavery in the Americas The Rise of African Slavery in the Americas. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2000.Equiano, Olaudah. The Interesting Narrative of the Life of Olaudah Equiano; or, Gustavus Va.s.sa, the African, Written by Himself The Interesting Narrative of the Life of Olaudah Equiano; or, Gustavus Va.s.sa, the African, Written by Himself. Edited by Paul Edwards. Harlow, Ess.e.x: Longman, 1988.Estes, Rufus. Good Things to Eat as Suggested by Rufus Good Things to Eat as Suggested by Rufus. Chicago, 1911. Reprinted as Rufus Estes' Good Things to Eat: The First Cookbook by an African American Chef Rufus Estes' Good Things to Eat: The First Cookbook by an African American Chef. Mineola, NY: Dover, 2004.Feest, Christian F. The Cultures of Native North America The Cultures of Native North America. Cologne: Konemann, 2000.Ferloni, Julia. Marchands d'esclaves de la traite a l'abolition Marchands d'esclaves de la traite a l'abolition. Paris: Editions de Conti, 2005.Fowler, Damon Lee, ed. Dining at Monticello: In Good Taste and Abundance Dining at Monticello: In Good Taste and Abundance. Monticello, VA: Thomas Jefferson Foundation, 2005.Frank, Andrew K., ed. The Routledge Historical Atlas of the American South The Routledge Historical Atlas of the American South. New York: Routledge, 1999.Gallay, Alan. The Indian Slave Trade: The Rise of Empire in the American South, 16701717 The Indian Slave Trade: The Rise of Empire in the American South, 16701717. New Haven, CT: Yale University Press, 2002.Gates, Henry Louis, and Nellie Y. McKay, eds. The Norton Anthology: African American Literature The Norton Anthology: African American Literature. New York: W. W. Norton, 1997.Gatewood, Willard B. Aristocrats of Color: The Black Elite, 18801920 Aristocrats of Color: The Black Elite, 18801920. Bloomington: Indiana University Press, 1993.Genovese, Eugene. Roll, Jordan, Roll: The World the Slaves Made Roll, Jordan, Roll: The World the Slaves Made. New York: Vintage, 1976.Gomez, Michael. Exchanging Our Country Marks: The Transformation of African Ident.i.ties in the Colonial and Antebellum South Exchanging Our Country Marks: The Transformation of African Ident.i.ties in the Colonial and Antebellum South. Chapel Hill: University of North Carolina Press, 1998.---. Reversing Sail: A History of the African Diaspora Reversing Sail: A History of the African Diaspora. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2005.Goings, Kenneth W. Mammy and Uncle Mose: Black Collectibles and American Stereotyping Mammy and Uncle Mose: Black Collectibles and American Stereotyping. Bloomington: Indiana University Press, 1994.Gordon-Reed, Annette. The Hemingses of Monticello: An American Family The Hemingses of Monticello: An American Family. New York: W. W. Norton, 2008.Greene, Harlan, Harry S. Hutchins Jr., and Brian E. Hutchins. Slave Badges and the Slave-Hire System in Charleston, South Carolina, 17831865 Slave Badges and the Slave-Hire System in Charleston, South Carolina, 17831865. Jefferson, NC: McFarland, 2004.Hall, Martin. African Archaeology African Archaeology. Cape Town: David Phillip, 1996.Harris, Jessica B. The Africa Cookbook: Tastes of a Continent The Africa Cookbook: Tastes of a Continent. New York: Simon & Schuster, 1998.---. Iron Pots and Wooden Spoons: Africa's Gifts to New World Cooking Iron Pots and Wooden Spoons: Africa's Gifts to New World Cooking. New York: Atheneum, 1989.---. A Kwanzaa Keepsake A Kwanzaa Keepsake. New York: Simon & Schuster, 1995.---. The Welcome Table The Welcome Table. New York: Simon & Schuster, 1995.Hashaw, Tim. The Birth of Black America: The First Africans and the Pursuit of Freedom at Jamestown The Birth of Black America: The First Africans and the Pursuit of Freedom at Jamestown. New York: Carroll & Graf, 2007.Hess, Karen. The Carolina Rice Kitchen: The African Connection The Carolina Rice Kitchen: The African Connection. Columbia: University of South Carolina Press, 1992.Hilliard, Sam Bowers. Hog Meat and Hoecake: Food Supply in the Old South, 18401860 Hog Meat and Hoecake: Food Supply in the Old South, 18401860. Carbondale: Southern Illinois University Press, 1972.Hine, Darlene Clark, William C. Hine, and Stanley Harrold. The African American Odyssey The African American Odyssey. 3rd ed. Upper Saddle River, NJ: Pearson, Prentice Hall, 2006.Holdredge, Helen O'Donnell. Mammy Pleasant Mammy Pleasant. New York: G. P. Putnam's Sons, 1953.Horton, James Oliver, and Lois E. Horton. Slavery and the Making of America Slavery and the Making of America. New York: Oxford University Press, 2005.Hudson, Lynn M. The Making of "Mammy Pleasant": A Black Entrepreneur in Nineteenth-Century San Francisco The Making of "Mammy Pleasant": A Black Entrepreneur in Nineteenth-Century San Francisco. Urbana: University of Illinois Press, 2003.Hughes, Langston. The Langston Hughes Reader: The Selected Writings of Langston Hughes The Langston Hughes Reader: The Selected Writings of Langston Hughes. New York: Braziller, 1958.Hurmence, Belinda. Before Freedom, When I Just Can Remember Before Freedom, When I Just Can Remember. Winston-Salem, NC: John Blair, 1989.Johnson, Charles, Patricia Smith, and the WGBH Series Research Team. Africans in America: America's Journey Through Slavery Africans in America: America's Journey Through Slavery. New York: Harcourt Brace, 1998.Jones, Evan. American Food: The Gastronomic Story American Food: The Gastronomic Story. New York: Dutton, 1975.Joyner, Charles. Down by the Riverside: A South Carolina Slave Community Down by the Riverside: A South Carolina Slave Community. Urbana: University of Illinois Press, 1984.Katz, William Loren. The Black West: A Doc.u.mentary and Pictorial History The Black West: A Doc.u.mentary and Pictorial History. Garden City, NJ: Anchor, 1973.---The Black West. 3rd ed. Seattle: Open Hand, 1987.Kemble, Frances Anne. Journal of a Residence on a Georgian Plantation in 18381839 Journal of a Residence on a Georgian Plantation in 18381839. Edited by John A. Scott. Athens, GA: Brown Thrasher, 1984.Kimball, Marie. Thomas Jefferson's Cook Book Thomas Jefferson's Cook Book. Charlottesville: University Press of Virginia, 1976.King, David. First People First People. London: Dorling Kindersley, 2008.Klapthor, Margaret, et al. The First Ladies Cook Book: Favorite Recipes of All the Presidents of the United States The First Ladies Cook Book: Favorite Recipes of All the Presidents of the United States. New York: Parents' Magazine, 1969.Latrobe, Benjamin Henry Boneval. Impressions Respecting New Orleans: Diary and Sketches, 18181820 Impressions Respecting New Orleans: Diary and Sketches, 18181820. Edited by Samuel Wilson. New York: Columbia University Press, 1951.Latrobe, John H. B. Southern Travels: Journal of John H. B. Latrobe Southern Travels: Journal of John H. B. Latrobe. Edited by Samuel Wilson Jr. New Orleans: Historic New Orleans Collection, 1986.Leckie, William H. The Buffalo Soldiers: A Narrative of the Negro Cavalry in the West The Buffalo Soldiers: A Narrative of the Negro Cavalry in the West. Norman: University of Oklahoma Press, 1967.Linck, Ernestine Sewell, and Joyce Gibson Roach. Eats: A Folk History of Texas Foods Eats: A Folk History of Texas Foods. Fort Worth: Texas Christian University Press, 1989.Littlefield, Daniel C. Rice and Slaves: Ethnicity and the Slave Trade in Colonial South Carolina Rice and Slaves: Ethnicity and the Slave Trade in Colonial South Carolina. Urbana: University of Illinois Press, 1981.Luchetti, Emily. Home on the Range: A Culinary History of the American West Home on the Range: A Culinary History of the American West. New York: Villard, 1993.Mannix, Daniel P., in collaboration with Malcolm Cowley. Black Cargoes: A History of the Atlantic Slave Trade Black Cargoes: A History of the Atlantic Slave Trade. New York: Viking, 1962.Ma.r.s.eille, Jacques, and Dominique Margairaz, eds. 1789: Au jour le jour 1789: Au jour le jour. Paris: Albin Michel, 1988.Martin, Judith. Star-Spangled Manners: In Which Miss Manners Defends American Etiquette (For a Change Star-Spangled Manners: In Which Miss Manners Defends American Etiquette (For a Change). New York: W. W. Norton, 2003.McInnis, Maurie D. The Politics of Taste in Antebellum Charleston The Politics of Taste in Antebellum Charleston. Chapel Hill: University of North Carolina Press, 2005.McMillin, James A. The Final Victims: Foreign Slave Trade to North America, 17831810 The Final Victims: Foreign Slave Trade to North America, 17831810. Columbia: University of South Carolina Press, 2004.Newman, James L. The Peopling of Africa: A Geographic Interpretation The Peopling of Africa: A Geographic Interpretation. New Haven, CT: Yale University Press, 1995.Oliver, Sandra. Food in Colonial and Federal America Food in Colonial and Federal America. Westport, CT: Greenwood, 2005.Phillipson, David W. African Archaeology African Archaeology. 2nd ed. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1995.Phipps, Frances. Colonial Kitchens, Their Furnis.h.i.+ngs, and Their Gardens Colonial Kitchens, Their Furnis.h.i.+ngs, and Their Gardens. New York: Hawthorn, 1972.Pla.s.se, Jean Pierre. Journal de bord d'un negrier: Adapte du francais du XVIIIe par Bernard Pla.s.se Journal de bord d'un negrier: Adapte du francais du XVIIIe par Bernard Pla.s.se. 1762. Ma.r.s.eilles: Le Mot et le Reste, 2005.Randolph, Mary. The Virginia House-wife The Virginia House-wife. 1824. Was.h.i.+ngton, D.C. Reprinted as The Virginia House-wife with Historical Notes and Commentaries by Karen Hess The Virginia House-wife with Historical Notes and Commentaries by Karen Hess. Columbia: University of South Carolina Press, 1984.Rawley, James A. The Trans-Atlantic Slave Trade The Trans-Atlantic Slave Trade. New York: W. W. Norton, 1981.Rediker, Marcus. The Slave s.h.i.+p: A Human History The Slave s.h.i.+p: A Human History. New York: Viking, 2007.Rowley, Anthony, ed. Les Francais a table: Atlas historique de la gastronomie francaise Les Francais a table: Atlas historique de la gastronomie francaise. Paris: Hachette, 1997.Schenone, Laura. A Thousand Years over a Hot Stove: A History of American Women Told Through Food, Recipes, and Remembrances A Thousand Years over a Hot Stove: A History of American Women Told Through Food, Recipes, and Remembrances. New York: W. W. Norton, 2003.Schneider, Dorothy, and Carl J. Schneider. Slavery in America: An Eyewitness History Slavery in America: An Eyewitness History. New York: Checkmark, 2007.Schwarz, Philip J. Slavery at the Home of George Was.h.i.+ngton Slavery at the Home of George Was.h.i.+ngton. Mount Vernon, VA: Mount Vernon Ladies a.s.sociation, 2001.Shaw, Thurstan, et al. The Archaeology of Africa: Food, Metals and Towns The Archaeology of Africa: Food, Metals and Towns. London: Routledge, 1993.Sloan. Kim. A New World: England's First View of America A New World: England's First View of America. Chapel Hill: University of North Carolina Press, 2007.Stanton, Lucia. 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American Indians: The First Nations-Native North American Life, Myth and Art American Indians: The First Nations-Native North American Life, Myth and Art. London: Duncan Baird, 2003.

SELECTED AFRICAN AMERICAN COOKBOOKS (IN CHRONOLOGICAL ORDER).

Roberts, Robert. The House Servant's Directory; or, A Monitor for Private Families: Comprising Hints on the Arrangement and Performance of Servants' Work ... and Upwards of 100 Various and Useful Recipes, Chiefly Compiled for the Use of House Servants The House Servant's Directory; or, A Monitor for Private Families: Comprising Hints on the Arrangement and Performance of Servants' Work ... and Upwards of 100 Various and Useful Recipes, Chiefly Compiled for the Use of House Servants. Boston: Munroe and Francis, 1827.This is the first work by an African American author that includes recipes. It is fascinating in its advice to young men who wanted to go into the profession of butler.Russell, Malinda. A Domestic Cook Book: Containing a Careful Selection of Useful Receipts for the Kitchen by Malinda Russell a Free Woman of Color A Domestic Cook Book: Containing a Careful Selection of Useful Receipts for the Kitchen by Malinda Russell a Free Woman of Color. Paw Paw, MI, 1866.This is the first cookbook by an African American author. It is notable not only for its early date but also for the variety of recipes included.Fisher, Abby. What Mrs. Fisher Knows About Old Southern Cooking, Soups, Pickles, Preserves, Etc What Mrs. Fisher Knows About Old Southern Cooking, Soups, Pickles, Preserves, Etc. San Francisco: Women's Cooperative Printing Office, 1881.Long thought to be the first African American cookbook, this work offers recipes for some cla.s.sic Southern dishes as well as an extensive array of condiments. A facsimile edition with extensive notes by the late culinary historian Karen Hess is available.Estes, Rufus. Rufus Estes' Good Things to Eat, As Suggested by Rufus: A Collection of Practical Recipes for Preparing Meats, Game, Fowl, Fish, Puddings, Pastries, Etc Rufus Estes' Good Things to Eat, As Suggested by Rufus: A Collection of Practical Recipes for Preparing Meats, Game, Fowl, Fish, Puddings, Pastries, Etc. Chicago: Franklin, 1911.The first cookbook written by an African American chef offers a sophisticated range of recipes as well as advice for kitchen maids and a brief sketch of Estes's life.Hayes, Mrs. W. T. Kentucky Cook Book: Easy and Simple for Any Cook, by a Colored Woman Kentucky Cook Book: Easy and Simple for Any Cook, by a Colored Woman. St. Louis: Tomkins, 1912.The work offers recipes for a variety of Southern cla.s.sics as well as fascinating photographs of some of the cooks.Carver, George Was.h.i.+ngton. 105 Different Ways to Prepare the Peanut for the Table 105 Different Ways to Prepare the Peanut for the Table. N.p., n.p., n.d.The t.i.tle tells all about this pamphlet, which is also found as an appendix in Carver's biography.Richard, Lena. Lena Richard's Cook Book Lena Richard's Cook Book. New Orleans: Rogers, 1939.This work, by the first black woman to have a television show, offers creole recipes from southern Louisiana as well as more traditional culinary cla.s.sics.DeKnight, Freda. A Date with a Dish: A Cookbook of American Negro Recipes A Date with a Dish: A Cookbook of American Negro Recipes. New York: Hermitage, 1948.The book, by Ebony Ebony magazine's first food editor, contains mid-twentieth-century versions of African American cla.s.sics. It has been re-edited several times and is still in print as the magazine's first food editor, contains mid-twentieth-century versions of African American cla.s.sics. It has been re-edited several times and is still in print as the Ebony Cookbook Ebony Cookbook.Muhammad, Elijah. How to Eat to Live How to Eat to Live. Chicago: Muhammad Mosque of Islam No.2, 1967.The leader of the Nation of Islam offers his views on nutrition and health. A second volume was published in 1972.Princess Pamela. Princess Pamela's Soul Food Cookbook Princess Pamela's Soul Food Cookbook. New York: Signet-NAL, 1969.This paperback work by the New York own er of a popu lar East Village soul food eatery epitomizes the era.The Tuesday Soul Food Cookbook. Tuesday Magazine Tuesday Magazine. New York: Bantam, 1969.This compilation was a.s.sembled by the editors of a Sunday supplement for black readers.Grosvenor, Verta Mae Smart. Vibration Cooking; or, The Travel Notes of a Geechee Girl Vibration Cooking; or, The Travel Notes of a Geechee Girl. Garden City, NY: Doubleday, 1970.There have been three editions of the NPR commentator's work on her travels around the African Diaspora and the foods that she encountered.Mendes, Helen. The African Heritage Cookbook The African Heritage Cookbook. New York: Macmillan, 1971.This is one of the first works to connect the foods of Africa, the Caribbean, and the American South.Lewis, Edna, and Evangeline Peterson. The Edna Lewis Cookbook The Edna Lewis Cookbook. N.p., n.p., 1972."Miss Edna's" first cookbook begins to present her theories on fresh and seasonal foods.Darden, Norma Jean, and Carole Darden. Spoonbread and Strawberry Wine: Recipes and Reminiscences of a