Dress design Part 9

SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. CHARLES I. FEMALE.

The hair was now allowed to fall in ringlets round the back and sides, with a few flat curls on the brow, and a bow and pearls were caught in at the sides. Short feathers may also be noted in use. A plait was often coiled at the back after 1630.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Plate XV.--

(_a_) White Cloth Coat. 1775-90.

(_b_) Silk Dress. 1740-60.

(_c_) Embroidered Velvet Coat. 1755-75.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 62.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 63.

Collar and Bodice types. Period Charles I.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 64.

Collar and Bodice types. Period Charles I to 1660.]

In the early part of this reign the ladies were wearing the long corset-bodice, with a richly decorated stomacher which curved outwards to set on the very full skirts; this often finished with a curved or foliated shape at the point. Square starched collars, rounded at the back, sometimes set up at the back of the neck or flat on the shoulder, and ruffs were still seen round the neck with collars as well, but they were seldom met with after 1635. A plainer, deep collar, flat, round, or =V=-shaped at the back, coming well over the shoulders, was caught together by a bow or ornament in front. About 1630 shorter waisted bodices came in, with full, loose sleeves set in epaulets: the neck shape was rounded or square. The bodices were often slashed, and the full sleeves, cut into bands, were sometimes gathered by cross bands from one to three times. Full plain sleeves, opened in the front seam, were also clasped at the elbow in a like manner. Outer short sleeves became a feature, opening in the front, showing the full under one or a tight one; the waist became very short and its tabs larger. A waistband fastened in the stomacher with a bow either side and bows with long gold tags decorated the waist as in the male jerkin. The skirt decorated by a band of ornament down the front was often tied upon the corset-bodice, the front point being left outside. Shoes of the same shape as the male ill.u.s.trations, with very square toes, were frequent, but an oval toe, rather pointed, is seen in many pictures, with the large lace rosettes in front. m.u.f.fs are first noticed in these days, though they were seen much earlier on the Continent.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 65.--Period 1625-1660.]

SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. CHARLES I. MALE.

The hair was worn loose to the shoulders, and a small plait was sometimes arranged on the left side, brought to the front of shoulder.

The beard was trimmed to a pointed shape, and smarter curled moustaches were fas.h.i.+onable. Hats were still high in the crown, but rather lower than with James I; the large brims were turned about in various curves, and feathers were worn falling over the brims to the side or back.

The jerkin was high in the collar, supporting a large, square, turn-down collar edged with pointed lace to the shoulders, or a small, plain, turn-over collar; ruffs are very rarely seen after 1630.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 66.--Charles I.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 67.--Period 1625-1660.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 68.--Period 1625-1660.]

A rather short waist grew shorter during this reign, with much larger tabs, or large flaps laced to the body, forming a series of bows with long gilt tags round the waist. The body is usually decorated with long slashes from the shoulders to the breast, or the full length, and a long slashed opening is often seen in the back (presumably to give more play to the sword-thrust). The sleeve is also treated in the same way to the elbow or waist. All sleeves start from a stiff epaulet. Breeches are both very full and fairly tight, the latter edged with a purfling of silk or gold lace as well as the sides, the former shape tied either above or below the knee with a large silk bow with falling ends. They were held up by a number of hooks, fastening to a small flap with eyelets, round the inside of the doublet (see pattern 11, p. 295), and were b.u.t.toned down the front, the b.u.t.tons being half hidden in a pleat.

The pockets were placed vertically in the front of the thigh, and were frequently of a decorative character.

A short or long circular cloak was worn, and a coat-cloak with opened sleeves is an interesting garment. These coverings were hung in various ways from the shoulders by methods of tying the cords across the body.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 69.--Period 1625-1660.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 70.--Shoe shapes. Charles I to 1700.

NOS. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 23. Charles I.

NOS. 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 25. Charles II.

NOS. 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 24, 26, 27, 28. James II and William and Mary.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Plate XVI.--

(_a_) Silk Brocade Dress. 1740-60.

(_b_) Silk Brocade Sack-back Dress. 1755-75.

_Pattern, see p. 334._ (_c_) Dress of Striped Material. 1775-85.

_Pattern, see p. 335._]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 71.--Boot shapes. Charles I to 1700.

NOS. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9. Charles I.

NOS. 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15. Charles II.

NOS. 16, 17, 18. James II and William and Mary.]

Shoes became very square at the toes, or blocked as in Fig. 70, No. 6.

The fronts were set with large rosettes of silk and silver or gold lace, the heels varied much in height, that mostly favoured being a large, low heel. A quaint fas.h.i.+on of shoe combined with a clog sole was an interesting shape (see ill.u.s.tration of clogs, p. 106). Fairly tight top-boots, coming well above the knee, were often turned down. Other boots with large bell-tops, turned over or pushed down, were covered or filled with a lace or bell-shaped stocking-top. A sash was worn round the waist or across the body over the left shoulder (the length and width of these is given in the description of patterns, p. 279). A broad belt, or sword-hanger, came across the right shoulder. Gloves were beautifully embroidered in gold, pearls, or coloured silks, the gauntlets being from five to eight inches deep.

SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. THE COMMONWEALTH. MALE AND FEMALE.

The same shapes apply to costume during the Commonwealth, though a sterner effect was given by the choice of plain decoration and less colour. A small or a large plain collar, and the disappearance of slas.h.i.+ngs on the coat, and a longer skirt became noticeable. A very high tapered hat, with stiff circular brim, was worn by the Puritans, and little, close, black hoods were much favoured. A general reaction from gay extravagance set in.

SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. CHARLES II.

FEMALE.

The hair was set out from the head on combs with falling ringlets, and several small flat ringlets were placed on the forehead. The back of the hair was plaited into a knot, and pearl strings were interlaced, or ribbon loops caught in at either side. Toward 1680 the hair was worn tightly curled and fulled out into a round shape with a curl or two falling on the front of the shoulders; small feathers or long feathers were also worn. Hats were of a similar shape to those of the last reign, with a stiffer and narrower curved brim; but the chief head-dress was a large hood faced with another material, which latter was tied under the chin; these mostly formed part of a cape also.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 72.--Period 1650-1685.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Plate XVII.--

(_a_) Silk Suit. 1765-80.

(_b_) Quilted Dress. 1700-25.

(_c_) Silk-embroidered Suit. 1765-80.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 73.

1, 2, 3, 4.--Back and Front of two Corset Bodices. Period Charles II.

5, 6.--Two Corsets. Period Charles II.

7, 8.--Two Bodice types. Period Charles I.]

The bodice again became much longer and of a pointed shape, but many corset bodices took a round point, and a round neck coming well off the shoulders became general, usually decorated with a plain wide band of lace. Ruffs and collars were no longer seen amongst the upper cla.s.ses. Very full sleeves and large opened sleeves were tied or clasped over full lawn ones, and at times separated from the shoulders, being caught effectively with jewels. Groups of ribbons were placed at the breast or point of the bodice, and the ends of sleeves or shoulders, besides at the fronts of the outer skirt when divided, also in the gathering of the lawn sleeves. Stomachers were not much worn, but a drape of soft silk was caught here and there round the neck of bodice, and large draperies were clasped to the shoulders. Loose robes and robes shaped to the figure, opening down the front from the neck even to the waist, with a clasp or several holding them together; these were worn over a quilted linen corset laced in front as in the ill.u.s.tration, but the bodice was often formed on a corset. Long gloves and mittens were in use, and small m.u.f.fs with ribbon loops on the front were carried.

High-heeled shoes with very long square toes were affected in imitation of the male shoe, but most ladies now began to wear a very pointed shoe.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 74.--Sleeve treatments. Period Charles II.]

SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. CHARLES II.