Dress design Part 12

16. 1770-1780.

17. 1740-1780.

18. 1786-1796.

19. 1774-1784.

20. 1775-1790.

21. Sole of shoe No. 22.

22. 1776-1800.

23. 1780-1790.]

The neck had the same lawn bind with a long lace ruffle, and the coat the same full cut as in the last reign, and the large rounded cuff was still in favour, but many varieties of size were now worn. A vertical pocket is seen occasionally on cloth coats, also a cape and turned-down collar are noted, while several appear with a very small upright collar. b.u.t.tons were still worn on some coats, right down the front; but on many coats the b.u.t.tons stopped level with the pocket.

A short-skirted coat came in amongst the dandies towards the end of the reign, and was stiffened out on the skirts; these mostly had a tighter sleeve and cuff. The same decorations continued in use. Waistcoats were much the same, and were cut to the length of the coats, or about four inches shorter; they were b.u.t.toned higher, the lace often falling outside.

Breeches were the same in cut, fastened with six b.u.t.tons and a buckle at the side of the knee. The stockings, usually decorated with clocks, were still worn rolled outside the knee amongst smart people. The stiff high boots or gaiters generally had a full curved piece at the top, and short gaiters to the calf are also to be noticed.

The shoes were square-toed or of a roundish form, with a short or rather high square front, and heels of various heights. Patches and make-up were used by the fops, and swords and sticks carried, the latter being very high, to 46 inches.

EIGHTEENTH CENTURY. GEORGE II. FEMALE.

The hair was treated in much the same manner as with George I up to the end of this reign--gathered back from the forehead to a bunch of curls at the back. The small hats and caps, often worn together, continued of the same character; the dresses also remained similar in cut. The sack-back dress was supreme in the fifties, when it was set with panniers, together with the hoops, but the latter were not so much worn towards the end of this reign, except for the "grand dress." Quilted petticoats were much worn, but flounces are not a feature on the skirts till the latter part of this period. The simpler dress was of various lengths, and was at times worn quite short up to 1740. The corset bodice was still in use, with lawn sleeves: square cuffs and lace ruffles held the lead throughout this time, but the fan-shaped sleeve finish to the elbow, in the same material as the dress, began to appear about 1750, generally with a waved or scalloped edge. Pointed toes and high-heeled shoes continued, with either tied or buckled latchets, and long gloves and mittens were in use.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 92.--Three hoops and four pannier forms.

Types 1725-1760.

1750-1780.

1740-1770.

1700.

1720-50.

1735-65.

1780-90.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 93.

_Quilted designs on Petticoats, 18th century._]

EIGHTEENTH CENTURY. GEORGE II. MALE.

Wigs with double points at the back, short curled or of long pigtailed shapes, some with side curls, others curled all round the front, were worn. Large bows and bags, or no bows, finished the back hair, and the bow to the front of the neck was in use from the early part of this reign. Long coats, as in the last reign, and short coats with stiffened skirts were used; many with braided seams and fronts, also a braided opening at the back. Large round cuffs and big square ones, caped coats, and coats with turn-down collars were all in the mode, and the "maccaroni" fas.h.i.+ons started about 1760, with absurdities in small hats, clubbed wigs, and very short coats. High sticks and crook sticks, canes and swords continued in use.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Plate XXII.--

(_a_) Linen Dress. 1795-1808.

_Pattern of Bodice, see p. 316._ (_b_) Silk Bodice. 1825-30.

(_c_) Silk Bodice. 1818-25.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 94.--Wig types, second half 18th century.

1740-1765.

1765-1795.]

The pocket flaps were of a curved form, with a rounded centre still, and many of the shoes had a high square front, high heels, and square toes: according to the caricature prints of Boitard, the fas.h.i.+onable hats were smaller in 1730, and much larger ten years later; very full skirts at the former date, and smaller and less stiffened at the latter.

Stockings were often still worn outside the knee. Shoes reached an extreme high square front at the latter date, and gloves with curved or square cuffs are to be noted.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 95.--First Half Eighteenth Century.]

EIGHTEENTH CENTURY. GEORGE III TO 1800. FEMALE.

This long reign, like that of Queen Victoria, embraces several changes of style. Up till about 1785 white powder was still used for the hair, reaching its fullest extravagance in the middle of the seventies, set with pearls, bandeaus, caps, lace, flowers and feathers, and about 1776 the top was widened considerably. The front hair, gathered from the forehead, was pressed in a forward curve over a high pad, with one to three curls at the sides and one at the shoulders, the back hair being arranged in a loose loop, curled on the top and set with a large bow at the back; a small round hat with very small low crown (usually decorated with flowers and silks gathered into puffs, or ribbons and small feathers) was tilted right on the front. About 1780 large mob caps with a big bow on the front came in, and were generally worn together with the tall-crowned hat or the large-brimmed hat in favour at this time. A cape with smallish hood worn in the earlier reigns was supplanted about 1777 by the calash, a huge hood set out with whalebone which came to cover the full head-dresses. The heavier caped or hooded cloak, sometimes with side opening for the arms, and usually trimmed with fur, still remained in use to 1800.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 96.--Costume notes, 1770-1780.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Plate XXIII.--

(_a_) Muslin Dress with Tinsel Design. 1798-1810.

(_b_) Silk Dress. Period George IV.

(_c_) Satin and Gauze Dress. 1820-30.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 97.--Head Dress. Period 1780-1795.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 98.--Hats and Caps during period 1780-1795.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 99.--Hats during period 1790-1800.]

The bodice retained the same shape as in the former reign, rather longer in the points back and front, with a large fan finish to the sleeve, double or single; this became supplanted by a much-gathered elbow-piece, sometimes eight inches deep, gathered in four rows. Small drawn gathers started round the waist of the skirt, for the side panniers and hoops were being less worn, except for the "smart gown," but bunching, reefing, and looping took their place in effect, and quilted petticoats remained while this character of dress lasted. The later sack-back dress was sewn tighter to the body, and usually started in a narrower set at the back, while the full pleat from the shoulder down the front went out, and the neck was more displayed by lower bodice fronts, which continued to be set with bows, jewels, lace, or embroidery. Sack-back jackets were often worn in the seventies; when the sack began to disappear, it took the form of overlapped seams on the bodice. The decorated side pockets are noted in prints showing tuck-up dresses to 1775. The jacket bodice of the same form described in the preceding reign was perhaps more in evidence till 1780, not so long in the skirt as in the earlier reigns, but after this date it took a longer skirt, which was often pleated at the back, with a very low neck and short waist.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 100.--Period 1780-1795.]

About 1780 we find a change of style appearing in a shorter waist, with less pointed setting, having often a rounded point or square tabs, and even a shaped finish to the corset front, which was sometimes used like a waistcoat effect under the cut-away dresses seen after 1770 (see Fig.

99, p. 221). A general tendency to imitate male attire is apparent, and the front of the bodice was set with lapels and straps b.u.t.toned across (though I have noted this latter character in the early part of this century), and long coats with this character were much worn, with two or three capes. The sleeves are sometimes set over a tight undersleeve, in fact the longer sleeve to the wrist became fas.h.i.+onable. With this change a short gathered skirt is seen on some bodices, and the full gathered skirt was bunched out at the back on a bustle, of which I give an ill.u.s.tration (p. 212), the low neck being filled with a large lawn fichu; a wide belt was generally worn, or a wide sash and bow at the back or side is seen with the lighter dresses, these being simple in style, just gathered at the waist, with short full sleeves set with a frill, and another frill was also arranged round the neck.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 101.]

About 1790 the mode again began to change to a cla.s.sic style, still higher in the waist, with a short tight sleeve, at times puffed in the upper part, or an outer and under sleeve, as per ill.u.s.tration A, Plate XXII (see p. 215). The fronts of this type of bodice were mostly b.u.t.toned or pinned up to the shoulders over a tight underfront, the skirt opening about 18 inches at the sides, thus saving a fastening at the back. I have ill.u.s.trated some very interestingly cut jackets of this period from my collection, as A, Plate XXIV (see p. 231); the sleeves were very long and were ruckled on the arm, as likewise were the long gloves or mittens of this time. A long scarf or drape was carried with this style, and a round helmet-like hat in straw or a turban was adopted. High sticks were still carried by ladies till the nineties, and umbrellas or parasols; the former came into vogue about 1770, the latter about six years later. m.u.f.fs of beautifully embroidered silk and satin were set with purfled tr.i.m.m.i.n.gs, gold and silver lace, or bows and ribbons; otherwise they were of furs or feathers. They remained rather small up to 1780, when a very large shape set in, which continued till the end of the reign; the quant.i.ty of beautiful fans of this century must be so well known as to need no description. The highest artistry was concentrated on them.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 102.--Period 1790-1800.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 103.--Costume notes, 1790-1800.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 104.--Lounge Caps worn during removal of Wig.]

Shoes at the beginning of this reign were set on very high spindle heels; the toe-front became rounded, the instep-front a pointed shape, and wide latchets were buckled till about 1785, but fas.h.i.+on discarded them earlier; for about 1780 the shoes became very small at the heel, and pointed again at the toe. When the latchets went out, the pointed instep remained for a time, but a low round front appeared, and the heel practically vanished just before 1800. These later shoes were decorated on the front by needlework or incised leather openwork underlaid with another colour. The soles at this time were extremely quaint in shape, and the shoes were tied sandal fas.h.i.+on up the ankle.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Plate XXIV.--

(_a_) Outdoor Silk Jacket. 1798-1808.

(_b_) Embroidered Muslin Bodice. 1816-30.

(_c_) Embroidered Muslin Bodice. 1824-25.