Dress design Part 11

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 82.--Bodice types. Period 1690-1720.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 83.--Costume type. 1695-1710.]

Hoods and capes or cloaks, and long black fichus or wraps, were the chief coverings, as the head-dress did not allow of hats being worn, but with the small frilled caps a little straw hat, or a low-crowned felt with a largish brim, are seen, and a small lace frill round the neck began to appear. Bodices with a low curved neck often had a short skirt or shaped pieces, as well as a shaped short sleeve over a gathered lawn one, while many wore long sleeves to the wrist, and a waistbelt is sometimes noted. There was also the sleeve spreading in width to the elbow, with a turned-up square cuff. The front of the bodice may be remarked with bands fastening across, and this became a feature in many dresses later in this century, otherwise it set closely over the shoulders to a =V= shape at the waist, and was filled with a stomacher of fine needlework, bows, or the ends of the lawn fichu laced or caught in by a big bow. A full, loose gown, with the fullness pleated to back and front, came in, the front being held by a bow and the back allowed to fall loose or crossed with a large bow at the back of waist, as in the museum specimen, Fig. 85. This became the more elaborate sack-back dress.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 84.--Period 1700-1725.]

The skirts began to be set out in a bell form, and trains were in much favour; the overskirts were parted in front, and many looped up to the back in a similar manner to the last reign. Small ap.r.o.ns of fine embroidery were worn with the best of dresses, and embroidered pockets are seen when the skirts were thrown back. Petticoats of fine quilting became much appreciated, and tall sticks were carried by ladies. Pointed shoes with high heels and latchets tied or buckled, the top of the fronts being mostly cut into four points, or they had a square finish.

EIGHTEENTH CENTURY. ANNE. MALE.

The wigs of the full ringlet style were still the fas.h.i.+on, but a simpler character is noticeable, the hair being combed back off the forehead and allowed to fall in looser waves. But many began to set a mode of smaller "coiffure," with their own hair caught in curls by a bow at the back, and curls over each ear. Powder came into use with the smart set, and a big bow and bag to finish the back of wig appeared, giving a smarter appearance to the white hair.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Plate XX.--

(_a_) Gold-embroidered Muslin Dress. 1795-1805.

(_b_) Nine Ap.r.o.ns. Between 1690 and 1850.

(_c_) Dress of Spotted Stockinette. 1795-1808.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 85.--Bodice types. 1700-1725.]

The hat, sometimes of white felt, was the same three-cornered type, edged with feathers and banded with broad gold braids or silver lace.

The neckwear was a bind of lawn, with a long fall finished with lace.

The coat remained long to the knees, but took a greater fullness in the side pleats of the skirt. Large b.u.t.tons and b.u.t.tonholes, 3 inches long, are seen, with the same on the cuff, which was worn very large, often 9 inches broad, and mostly of a curved outline, and of another coloured brocade; a tight undersleeve is also seen with these. The coat was sometimes heavily decorated with needlework or braids of gold down the front, pockets, seams, and cuffs. The pocket was wide and set higher in the skirt, and the back opening of coat was decorated by several horizontal braids to the two side pleats.

A long, full-skirted waistcoat, of rich materials or needlework, was at times braided and fringed at the skirt with gold, the pockets covered with a large flap, and five b.u.t.tons fastened it or were placed as decorations just below it. The front b.u.t.tons were often reduced to four at the waist, as it was still fas.h.i.+onable to show the lawn s.h.i.+rt.

Breeches were of the same cut as in the former reign, with five or six side b.u.t.tons at the knee, and stockings with embroidered clocks were worn rolled over outside the breeches as before.

Shoes were square at the toes and not quite so long, while the heels were still rather heavy, and red was the mode. They had a high square top at the front instep, and buckles fastened the latchets. m.u.f.fs were often carried by the dandies, and walking-sticks, with ta.s.sel and loop, were slung on the arm; besides a sword, which, pa.s.sing through the side pleats and out at the back, helped to set out the coat, which was often stiffened in the skirts. Gloves, with short gauntlets very angular or curved in shape, were trimmed with gold fringe; the backs were also richly embroidered with gold or silver.

EIGHTEENTH CENTURY. GEORGE I. FEMALE.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 86.--1725-1750.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Plate XXI.--23 Boots and Shoes. From 1800-75.

1. 1800-1820.

2. "

3. 1810-1828.

5. 1820-1830.

8. "

9. 1820-1830.

10. "

13. 1830-1855.

16. "

16A. "

7. 1850-1865.

14. "

15. "

4. "

6. "

17. "

12. "

21. 1860-1875.

11. "

18. "

20. "

19. "

22. " ]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 87.--Period 1725-1750.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 88.--Modes, 1750-1770.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 89.--Various Styles in Cut Back of Bodice.]

The hair was very simply gathered from the forehead and taken up to a knot of curls at the back. Occasionally a group of curls was allowed to fall behind, or a curl was arranged to fall on one shoulder, and waved curls of the Queen Anne type were still seen on many people. Caps, with long dropping points in front, sometimes tied under the chin or with long lappets at the back, were the chief favourites, also a small frilled cap. Shallow-crowned straw hats with various widths of brim; hoods and capes, both short and long, are seen, besides light silks draped from the hair to the waist, feathers, flowers, and ribbons being worn in the head-dress. Richly embroidered ap.r.o.ns were worn with the finest dresses.

The sack-back dress was very full, and started right across the shoulders in two double box-pleats, which were kept trim by being sewn flat for two to four inches down. Sleeves to the elbow were rather full, and gathered at the shoulders, with a square cuff often decorated with a bow in front, and a fan of lace, sometimes in several rows, fell from beneath. Sleeves finis.h.i.+ng in a shaped edge are occasionally seen. The skirts were made for the very round hoop setting, and were gathered in flat pleats on either hip. A wide pleat or two came from the shoulders down the front sometimes as a continuation of the sack-back. These pleats, meeting at the waist, formed a =V= shape, which was filled by an embroidered stomacher, or made of the same material, crossed by bands, bows, or rows of lace. The flat front pleat was occasionally embroidered, and gradually widened to the bottom of the skirt. Very pointed toes to the shoes, and high heels, with tied or buckled latchets, are seen, the tops of the front often being shaped into four points.

EIGHTEENTH CENTURY. GEORGE I. MALE.

Long, full wigs are still seen amongst older men, but several new shapes appear as ill.u.s.trated (Fig. 90), and the black bow and bag became very large; a black ribbon attached to it, with a bow in front, came round the neck. We also see the ends of the wig made into a long, tight pigtail. Hats were of the same three-cornered shape, rather fuller in size, and the feathered edging was still favoured. A hat of the type of Fig. 105 was also worn; and the loose cap with a ta.s.sel was put on when the wig was removed (see Fig. 104).

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 90.--Wig types, 1st half 18th century.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 91.--List of Dated Shoes and Boots.

No.

1. 1700-1750.

2. 1700-1780.

3. 1700-1780.

4. 1700-1750.

5. 1700-1760.

6. 1720-1780.

7. 1690-1720.

8. 1700-1750.

9. 1700-1740.

10. 1740-1760.

11. 1702-1720.

12. 1730-1750.

13. 1760-1800.

14. 1730-1760.

15. 1740-1770.