Handwork in Wood Part 9

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 116. Circular-Plane.]

The _universal plane_, Fig. 117, is a combination of various molding-, rabbeting-, matching- and other planes. It is capable of many adjustments and applications. The princ.i.p.al parts of this plane are: a _main stock_, _A_, with two sets of transverse sliding arms, a _depth-gage_, _F_, adjusted by a screw, and a _slitting cutter_ with stop, a _sliding section_, _B_, with a vertically adjustable bottom, the _auxiliary center bottom_, _C_, to be placed when needed in front of the cutter as an extra support or stop. This bottom is adjustable both vertically and laterally. _Fences_, _D and E_. For fine work, fence _D_ has a lateral adjustment by means of a thumb-screw. The fences can be used on either side of the plane, and the rosewood guides can be tilted to any desired angle up to 45, by loosening the screws on the face. Fence _E_ can be reversed for center-beading wide boards. For work thinner than the depth of the fence, the work may overhang the edge of the bench and fence _E_ be removed. An _adjustable stop_, to be used in beading the edges of matched boards, is inserted on the left side of the sliding section _B_. A great variety of cutters are supplied, such as: molding, matching, sash, beading, reeding, fluting, hollow, round, plow, rabbet, and filletster. Special shapes can be obtained by order.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 117. Universal Plane.]

_The Use of the Universal Plane._ Insert the proper cutter, adjusting it so that the portion of it in line with the main stock, _A_, will project below the sole the proper distance for cutting.

Adjust the bottom of the sliding section, _B_, so that the lowest portion of the cutter will project the proper distance below it for cutting. Tighten the check nuts on the transverse arms and _then_ tighten the thumb-screws which secure the sliding section to the arms.

The sliding section is not always necessary, as in a narrow rabbet or bead.

When an additional support is needed for the cutter, the auxiliary center bottom, _C_, may be adjusted in front of it. This may also be used as a stop.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 118. Iron Spokeshave.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 119. Pattern-maker's Spokeshave.]

Adjust one or both of the fences, _D_ and _E_, and fasten with the thumb-screws. Adjust the depth-gage, _F_, at the proper depth.

For a _dado_ remove the fences and set the spurs parallel with the edges of the cutter. Insert the long adjustable stop on the left hand of the sliding section. For slitting, insert the cutter and stop on the right side of the main stock and use either fence for a guide.

For a _chamfer_, insert the desired cutter, and tilt the rosewood guides on the fences to the required angle. For _chamfer beading_ use in the same manner, and gradually feed the cutter down by means of the adjusting thumb-nut.

There are also a number of planelike tools such as the following:

The _spoke-shave_, Fig. 118, works on the same principle as a plane, except that the guiding surface is very short. This adapts it to work with curved outlines. It is a sort of regulated draw-shave. It is sometimes made of iron with an adjustable mouth, which is a convenient form for beginners to use, and is easy to sharpen. The _pattern-makers spokeshave_, Fig. 119, which has a wooden frame, is better suited to more careful work. The method of using the spokeshave is shown in Fig.

120. (See p. 100.)

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 120. Using a Spokeshave.]

The _router-plane_, Figs. 121 and 122, is used to lower a certain part of a surface and yet keep it parallel with the surrounding part, and it is particularly useful in cutting panels, dadoes, and grooves. The cutter has to be adjusted for each successive cut. Where there are a number of dadoes to be cut of the same depth, it is wise not to finish them one at a time, but to carry on the cutting of all together, lowering the cutter after each round. In this way all the dadoes will be finished at exactly the same depth.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 121. Router-Plane.]

The _dowel-pointer_, Fig. 123, is a convenient tool for removing the sharp edges from the ends of dowel pins. It is held in a brace. The cutter is adjustable and is removable for sharpening.

The _cornering tool_, Fig. 124, is a simple device for rounding sharp corners. A cutter at each end cuts both ways so that it can be used with the grain without changing the position of the work. The depth of the cut is fixed.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 122. Using a Router-Plane.]

2. BORING TOOLS.

Some boring tools, like awls, force the material apart, and some, like augers, remove material.

The _brad-awl_, Fig. 125, is wedge-shaped, and hence care needs to be taken in using it to keep the edge across the grain so as to avoid splitting the wood, especially thin wood. The size is indicated by the length of the blade when new,--a stupid method. The awl is useful for making small holes in soft wood, and it can readily be sharpened by grinding.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 123. Dowel-Pointer.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 124. Cornering Tool.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 125. Brad-Awl.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 126. Twist-Drill.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 127. Twist-Bit.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 128. German Gimlet-Bit.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 129. Bit-Point Drill.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 130. Auger-Bit.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 131. Plug-Cutter.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 132. Center-Bit.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 133. Foerstner Auger-Bit.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 134. Expansive-Bit.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 135. Reamer.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 136. Rose Countersink.]

_Gimlets_ and _drills_ are alike in that they cut away material, but unlike in that the cutting edge of the gimlet is on the side, while the cutting edge of the drill is on the end.

_Twist-drills_, Fig. 126, are very hard and may be used in drilling metal. They are therefore useful where there is danger of meeting nails, as in repair work. Their sizes are indicated by a special drill gage, Fig. 220, p. 117.

_Twist-bits_, Fig. 127, are like twist-drills except that they are not hard enough to use for metal. Their sizes are indicated on the tang in 32nds of an inch. Both twist-bits and drill-bits have the advantage over gimlet-bits in that they are less likely to split the wood.

Twist-bits and twist-drills are sharpened on a grindstone, care being taken to preserve the original angle of the cutting edge so that the edge will meet the wood and there will be clearance.

_German gimlet-bits_, Fig. 128, have the advantage of centering well.

The size is indicated on the tang in 32nds of an inch. They are useful in boring holes for short blunt screws as well as deep holes. They cannot be sharpened readily but are cheap and easily replaced.

_Bit-point drills_, Fig. 129, are useful for accurate work, but are expensive.

_Auger-bits_, Fig. 130, have several important features. The spur centers the bit in its motion, and since it is in the form of a pointed screw draws the auger into the wood. Two sharp nibs on either side score the circle, out of which the lips cut the shavings, which are then carried out of the hole by the main screw of the tool. The size of auger-bits is indicated by a figure on the tang in 16ths of an inch. Thus 9 means a diameter of 9/16".

There are three chief precautions to be taken in using auger-bits. (1) One is to bore perpendicularly to the surface. A good way to do this is to lay the work flat, either on the bench or in the vise, and sight first from the front and then from the side of the work, to see that the bit is perpendicular both ways. The test may also be made with the try-square, Fig. 137, or with a plumb-line, either by the worker, or in difficult pieces, by a fellow worker. The sense of perpendicularity, however, should constantly be cultivated. (2) Another precaution is that, in thru boring, the holes should not be bored quite thru from one side, lest the wood be splintered off on the back. When the spur p.r.i.c.ks thru, the bit should be removed, the piece turned over, and the boring finished, putting the spur in the hole which is p.r.i.c.ked thru in boring from the first side. It is seldom necessary to press against the k.n.o.b of the brace in boring, as the thread on the spur will pull the bit thru, especially in soft wood.

Indeed, as the bit reaches nearly thru the board, if the k.n.o.b is gently pulled back, then when the spur p.r.i.c.ks thru the bit will be pulled out of its hole. This avoids the necessity of constantly watching the back of the board to see if the spur is thru. (3) In stop boring, as in boring for dowels or in making a blind mortise, care should be taken not to bore thru the piece. For this purpose an auger-bit-gage, Fig. 219, p. 116, may be used, or a block of wood of the proper length thru which a hole has been bored, may be slipped over the bit, or the length of bit may be noted before boring, and then the length of the projecting portion deducted, or the number of turns needed to reach the required depth may be counted on a trial piece. Tying a string around a bit, or making a chalk mark on it is folly.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 137. Using a Try-Square as a Guide in Boring.]

Auger-bits are sharpened with an auger-bit file, Fig. 142, p. 90, a small flat file with two narrow safe edges at one end and two wide safe edges at the other. The "nibs" should be filed on the inside so that the diameter of the cut may remain as large as that of the body of the bit. The cutting lip should be sharpened from the side toward the spur, care being taken to preserve the original angle so as to give clearance. If sharpened from the upper side, that is, the side toward the shank, the nibs will tend to become shorter.

The _plug-cutter_, Fig. 131, is useful for cutting plugs with which to cover the heads of screws that are deeply countersunk.

_Center-bits_, Fig. 132, work on the same principle as auger-bits, except that the spurs have no screw, and hence have to be pushed forcibly into the wood. Sizes are given in 16ths of an inch. They are useful for soft wood, and in boring large holes in thin material which is likely to split. They are sharpened in the same way as auger-bits.