The Art of Perfumery, and Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants Part 9

Esprit de violette, 1 pint.

" tubereuse, 1 "

" jasmine, 1/4 "

" rose, 1/2 "

Essence de muse, 2 oz.

WALLFLOWER (_Cherianthus_).--Exquisite as is the odor of this flower, it is not used in perfumery, though no doubt it might be, and very successfully too, were the plant cultivated for that purpose. To this flower we would direct particular attention, as one well adapted for experiments to obtain its odoriferous principle in this country, our climate being good for its production. The mode for obtaining its odor has been indicated when we spoke of heliotrope, page 60. And if it answers on the small scale, there is little doubt of success in the large way, and there is no fear but that the scent of the old English wallflower will meet with a demand.

An IMITATION ESSENCE OF WALLFLOWER can be compounded thus:--

Extract fleur d'orange, 1 pint.

" vanilla, 1/2 "

Esprit de rose, 1 "

Extract of orris, 1/2 "

" ca.s.sie, 1/2 "

Essential oil of almonds, 5 drops.

Allow this mixture to be made up for two or three weeks prior to putting it up for sale.

WINTER GREEN (_Trientalis Europoea_).--A perfuming otto can be procured by distilling the leaves of this plant: it is princ.i.p.ally consumed in the perfuming of soaps. Upon the strength of the name of this odorous plant a very nice handkerchief perfume is made.

ICELAND WINTER GREEN.

Esprit de rose, 1 pint.

Essence of lavender, 1/4 "

Extract of neroli, 1/2 "

" vanilla, 1/4 "

" vitivert, 1/4 "

" ca.s.sie, 1/2 "

" ambergris, 1/4 "

We have now described all the important odoriferous bodies which are used by the manufacturing perfumer, as derived from the botanic kingdom; it may be understood that where an odoriferous material is unnoticed, it has no qualities peculiar enough to be remarked on, and that the methods adopted for preparing its essence, extract, water, or oil, are a.n.a.logous to those that have been already noticed, that is, by the processes of _maceration_, _absorption_, or _enfleurage_ for flowers, by _tincturation_ for roots, and by _distillation_ for seeds, modified under certain circ.u.mstances.

There are, however, three other important derivative odors--ambergris, civet, and musk--which, being from the animal kingdom, are treated separately from plant odors, in order, it is considered, to render the whole matter less confused to manufacturers who may refer to them.

Ammonia and acetic acid, holding an indefinite position in the order we have laid down, may also come in here without much criticism, being considered as primitive odors.

On terminating our remarks relating to the simple preparations of the odors of plants, and before we speak of perfumes of an animal origin, or of those compound _odors_ sold as bouquets, nosegays, &c., it may probably be interesting to give a few facts and statistics, showing the consumption, in England, of the several substances previously named.

QUANt.i.tIES OF ESSENTIAL OILS, OR OTTOS, PAYING 1_S._ PER POUND DUTY, ENTERED FOR HOME CONSUMPTION IN THE YEAR 1852.

lbs.

Otto of bergamot, 28,574 " caraway, 3,602 " ca.s.sia, 6,163 " cloves, 595 Otto of lavender, 12,776 " lemon, 67,348 " peppermint, 16,059 " roses, 1,268 " spearmint, 163 " thyme, 11,418 " lemon gra.s.s, } " citronella, } 47,380 And other ottos not otherwise described, } ------- Total essential oils or ottos imported in one year, 195,346

at the duty of 1_s._ per pound, yield a revenue annually of 9,766_l._ 16_s._

It would appear by the above return that our consumption of otto of cloves was exceedingly small; whereas it is probably ten times that amount. The fact is, several of the English wholesale druggists are very large distillers of this otto, leaving little or no room for the sale and importation of foreign distilled otto of cloves. Again, otto of caraway, the English production of that article is quite equal to the foreign; also, otto of lavender, which is drawn in this country probably to the extent of 6000 lbs. annually.

There were also pa.s.sed through the Custom House for home consumption, in 1852--

Pomatums, procured by enfleurage, maceration, &c., commonly called "French Pomatums,"

average value of 6_s._ per pound, and paying a duty of 1_s._ per pound, valued by the importers at 1,306 Perfumery not otherwise described; value 1,920

Number of bottles of eau de Cologne, paying a duty of 1_s._ each,[D] 19,777

Revenue from eau de Cologne manufactured out of England, say 20,000 flacons at 8_d._ = 8,000_l._ annually.

The total revenue derived from various sources, even upon this low scale of duties, from the substances with which "Britannia perfumes her pocket handkerchief," cannot be estimated at less than 40,000_l._ per annum.

This, of course, includes the duty upon the spirits used in the home manufacture of perfumery.

SECTION IV.

PERFUMES OF ANIMAL ORIGIN.

In the previous articles we have only spoken of the odors of plants; we now enter upon those materials used in perfumery of an animal origin.

The first under our notice is--

AMBERGRIS.--This substance is found in the sea, floating near the islands of Sumatra, Molucca, and Madagascar; also on the coasts of America, Brazil, China, j.a.pan, and the Coromandel. The western coast of Ireland is often found to yield large pieces of this substance. The sh.o.r.es of the counties of Sligo, Mayo, Kerry, and the isles of Arran, are the princ.i.p.al places where it has been found. In the "Philosophical Transactions" there is an account of a lump found on the beach of the first-mentioned county, in the year 1691, which weighed 52 oz., and was bought on the spot for 20_l._, but which afterwards was sold in London for more than 100_l._ (Philos. Trans. No. 227, p. 509). We are quite within limit in stating that many volumes concerning the origin of ambergris have been written, but the question respecting it is still at issue. It is found in the stomachs of the most voracious fishes, these animals swallowing, at particular times, everything they happen to meet with. It has been particularly found in the intestines of the spermaceti whale, and most commonly in sickly fish, whence it is supposed to be the cause or effect of the disease.

Some authors, and among them Robert Boyle, consider it to be of vegetable production, and a.n.a.logous to amber; hence its name amber-_gris_ (gray) gray amber. It is not, however, within the province of this work to discuss upon the various theories about its production, which could probably be satisfactorily explained if our modern appliances were brought to bear upon the subject. The field is open to any scientific enthusiast; all recent authors who mention it, merely quoting the facts known more than a century ago.

A modern compiler, speaking of ambergris, says, "It smells like dried cow-dung." Never having smelled this latter substance, we cannot say whether the simile be correct; but we certainly consider that its perfume is most incredibly overrated; nor can we forget that HOMBERG found that "a vessel in which he had made a long digestion of the human faeces had acquired a very strong and perfect smell of ambergris, insomuch that any one would have thought that a great quant.i.ty of essence of ambergris had been made in it. The perfume (_odor!_) was so strong that the vessel was obliged to be moved out of the laboratory." (Mem. Acad. Paris, 1711.)

Nevertheless, as ambergris is extensively used as a perfume, in deference to those who admire its odor, we presume that it has to many an agreeable smell.

Like bodies of this kind undergoing a slow decomposition and possessing little volatility, it, when mixed with other very fleeting scents, gives permanence to them on the handkerchief, and for this quality the perfumer esteems it much.

ESSENCE OF AMBERGRIS

Is only kept for mixing; when retailed it has to be sweetened up to the public nose; it is then called after the Parisian name

EXTRAIT D'AMBRE.

Esprit de rose triple, 1/2 pint.

Extract of ambergris, 1 "

Essence of musk, 1/4 "

Extract of vanilla, 2 ounces.

This perfume has such a lasting odor, that a handkerchief being well perfumed with it, will still retain an odor even after it has been washed.

The fact is, that both musk and ambergris contain a substance which clings pertinaciously to woven fabrics, and not being soluble in weak alkaline lyes, is still found upon the material after pa.s.sing through the lavatory ordeal.

Powdered ambergris is used in the manufacture of ca.s.solettes--little ivory or bone boxes perforated--which are made to contain a paste of strong-smelling substances, to carry in the pocket or reticule; also in the making of peau d'Espagne, or Spanish skin, used for perfuming writing paper and envelopes, and which will be described hereafter.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Civet Cat.]

CIVET.--This substance is secreted by the _Viverra civetta_, or civet cat. It is formed in a large double glandular receptacle between the a.n.u.s and the pudendum of the creature. Like many other substances of Oriental origin, it was first brought to this country by the Dutch.