A Bibliographical, Antiquarian and Picturesque Tour in France and Germany Volume II Part 25

_LETTER XIV._

SOCIETY. ENVIRONS OF STRASBOURG. DOMESTIC ARCHITECTURE, MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. LITERATURE. LANGUAGE.

My last letter, however copious, was almost wholly confined to _views of interiors_; that is to say, to an account of the Cathedral and of the Public Library. I shall now continue the narrative with views of interiors of a different description; with some slight notices of the _society_ and of the city of Strasbourg; concluding the whole, as well as closing my Strasbourg despatches, with a summary account of manners, customs, and literature.

The great _Greek luminary_, not only of this place, but perhaps of Germany--the ELDER SCHWEIGHaeUSER--happens to be absent. His son tells me that he is at _Baden_ for the benefit of the waters, and advises me to take that "enchanting spot" (as he calls it) in my way to Stuttgart. "'Twill be only a trifling detour." What however will be the _chief_ temptation--as I frankly told the younger Schweighaeuser--would be the society of his Father; to whom the son has promised a strong letter of introduction. I told you in my last that I had seen LICHTENBERGER at Treuttel and Wurtz's. I have since called upon the old gentleman; and we immediately commenced a bibliographical parley. But it was chiefly respecting Lord Spencer's copies of the _Letters of Indulgence of Pope Nicolas V._ of the date of 1455, that he made the keenest enquiries. "Was the date legitimate?" I a.s.sured him there could be no doubt of it; and that what Haeberlin had said, followed by Lambinet, had no reference whatever to his Lords.h.i.+p's copies--for that, in _them_, the final units were compressed into a V and not extended by five strokes, thus--_iiiij_. As he was unacquainted with my account of these copies in the _Bibliotheca Spenceriana_, I was necessarily minute in the foregoing statement. The worthy old bibliographer was so pleased with this account, that he lifted up his eyes and hands, and exclaimed, "one grows old always to learn something."

M. Haffner, who was one of the guests at a splendid, but extremely sociable dinner party at _Madame Franc's_[224] the princ.i.p.al banker here--is a pleasing, communicative, open-countenanced, and open-hearted gentleman. He may be about sixty years of age. I viewed his library with admiration. The order was excellent; and considering what were his _means_, I could not but highly compliment him upon his prudence and enthusiasm. This was among the happiest ill.u.s.trations of the _Bibliomania_ which I had ever witnessed. The owner of this well chosen collection shewed me with triumph his copy of the first Greek Testament by _Erasmus_, and his copies of the same sacred book by _R. Stephen_ and _Wetstein_, in folio. Here too I saw a body of philological theology (if I may use this term) headed by _Walchius_ and _Wolff_, upon the possession of a similar collection of which, my late neighbour and friend, Dr. Gosset, used to expatiate with delight.

Let me now take you with me out of doors. You love architecture of all descriptions: but "the olden" is always your "dear delight." In the construction of the streets of Strasbourg, they generally contrive that the corner house should _not_ terminate with a right angle. Such a termination is pretty general throughout Strasbourg. Of the differently, and sometimes curiously, constructed iron bars in front of the windows, I have also before made mention. The houses are generally lofty; and the roofs contain two or three tiers of open windows, garret-fas.h.i.+oned; which gives them a picturesque appearance; but which, I learn, were constructed as granaries to hold flour--for the support of the inhabitants, when the city should sustain a long and rigorous siege. As to _very ancient_ houses, I cannot charge my memory with having seen any; and the most ancient are those on the other side of the _Ill_; of which several are near the convent before mentioned.

The immediate environs of Strasbourg (as I have before remarked) are very flat and poor, in a picturesque point of view. They consist chiefly of fields covered with the _tobacco plant_, which resembles that of our horse-radish; and the trade of tobacco may be considered the staple, as well as the indigenous, commodity of the place. This trade is at once extensive and lucrative; and regulated by very wholesome laws. The outskirts of the town, considered in an architectural point of view, are also very indifferent.

As to the general character, or rather appearance, of the Strasbourgeois, it is such as to afford very considerable satisfaction. The manners and customs of the people are simple and sober. The women, even to the cla.s.s of menial servants, go abroad with their hair brushed and platted in rather a tasteful manner, as we even sometimes observe in the best circles of our own country. The hair is dressed _a la grecque_, and the head is usually uncovered: contrary to the broad round hats, and depending queues, of the women inhabiting the neighbourhood of _Saverne_. But you should know that the farmers about Strasbourg are generally rich in pocket, and choice and dainty in the disposition of their daughters--with respect to wedlock. They will not deign to marry them to bourgeois of the ordinary cla.s.s. They consider the blood running in their families' veins to be polluted by such an intermixture; and accordingly they are oftentimes saucy, and hold their heads high. Even some of the fair dames coming from the high "countre,"

whom we saw kneeling the other day, in the cathedral, with their rural attire, would not commute their circular head pieces for the most curiously braided head of hair in the city of Strasbourg.

The utmost order and decency, both in dress and conduct, prevail in the streets and at spectacles. There seems to be that sober good sense among the Strasbourgeois--which forms a happy medium between the gaiety of their western, and the phlegm of their eastern, neighbours; and while this general good order obtains, we may forgive "officers for mounting guard in white silk stockings, or for dancing in boots at an a.s.sembly--and young gentlemen for wearing such scanty skirts to their coats:"--subjects, which appear to have ruffled the good temper of the recent historian of Strasbourg.[225] It seems clear that the morals of the community, and especially of the female part, were greatly benefited by the Reformation,[226] or establishment of the protestant religion.

In alluding to manners and customs, or social establishments of this place, you ought to know that some have imagined the origin of _Free-masonry_ may be traced to Strasbourg; and that the first _lodges_ of that description were held in this city. The story is this. The cathedral, considered at the time of its erection as a second _Solomon's temple_, was viewed as the wonder of the modern world. Its masons, or architects, were the theme of universal praise. Up rose, in consequence, the cathedrals of _Vienna, Cologne, Landshut_ and others: and it was resolved that, on the completion of such stately structures, those, whose mechanical skill had been instrumental to their erection, should meet in one common bond, and chant together, periodically, at least their _own_ praises. Their object was to be considered very much above the common labourer, who wore his ap.r.o.n in front, and carried his trowel in his hand: on the contrary, _they_ adopted, as the only emblems worthy of their profession, the level, the square, and the compa.s.s. All the lodges, wherever established, considered that of Strasbourg as the common parent; and at a meeting held at Ratisbon in 1459, it was agreed that the ARCHITECT OF STRASBOURG CATHEDRAL should be the _Grand Master of Free-masons_; and one DOTZINGER of Worms, who had succeeded Hulz in 1449, (just after the latter, had finished the spire) was acknowledged to be the FIRST GRAND MASTER. I own my utter ignorance in the lore of free-masonry; but have thought it worth while to send you these particulars: as I know you to be very "curious and prying" in antiquarian researches connected with this subject.

Strasbourg has been always eminent for its literary reputation, from the time of the two STURMII, or rather from that of GEYLER, downwards. It boasts of historians, chroniclers, poets, critics, and philologists. At this present moment the public school, or university, is allowed to be in a most flouris.h.i.+ng condition; and the name of SCHWEIGHaeUSER alone is sufficient to rest its pretensions to celebrity on the score of _cla.s.sical_ ac.u.men and learning. While, within these last hundred years, the names of SCHOEPFLIN, OBERLIN, and KOCH, form a host in the department of _topography_ and _political economy_.

In _Annals_ and _Chronicles_, perhaps no provincial city in Europe is richer; while in _old Alsatian poetry_ there is an almost inexhaustible banquet to feast upon. M. Engelhardt, the brother in law of M.

Schweighaeuser junr. is just now busily engaged in giving an account of some of the ancient love poets, or _Minne-Singers_; and he shewed me the other day some curious drawings relating to the same, taken from a MS. of the XIIIth century, in the public library. But Oberlin, in 1786, published an interesting work "_De Poetis Alsatiae eroticis medii aevi_"--and more lately in 1806; M. Arnold in his "_Notice litteraire et historique sur les poetes alsaciens_," 1806, 8vo.--enriched by the previous remarks of Schoepflin, Oberlin, and Frantz--has given a very satisfactory account of the achievements of the Muses who seem to have inhabited the mountain-tops of Alsatia--from the ninth to the sixteenth century inclusively. It is a fertile and an interesting subject. Feign would I, if s.p.a.ce and time allowed, give you an outline of the same; from the religious metres of _Ottfried_ in the ninth--to the charming and tender touches which are to be found in the _Hortus deliciarum_[227] of _Herade_ Abbess of Landsberg, in the twelfth-century: not meaning to pa.s.s over, in my progress, the effusions of philology and poetry which distinguished the rival abbey of _Hohenbourg_ in the same century. Indeed; not fewer than three Abbesses-- _Relinde, Herade, and _Edelinde_--cultivated literature at one and the same time: when, in Arnold's opinion, almost the whole of Europe was plunged in barbarism and ignorance. Then comes _Gunther_, in the fifteenth century; with several brave geniuses in the intervening period: and, latterly, the collection of the _Old Troubadour Poetry of Alsace_, by _Roger Maness_--of which there is a MS. in the Royal Library at Paris; and another (containing matter of a somewhat later period) in the Public library here; of which latter not a specimen, as I understand, has seen the light in the form of a printed text.

In later times, _Brandt, Wimphelin, Locher, Baldus, Pfeffel_, and _Nicolay_, are enough to establish the cause of good poetry, and the celebrity of this city in the production of such poets. As to the _Meister-Saengers_ (or Master-Singers) who composed the strains which they sang, perhaps the cities of Mentz and Nuremberg may vie with that of Strasbourg, in the production of this particular cla.s.s. _Hans Sachs_ of Nuremberg, formerly a cobler, was considered to be the very _Coryphoeus_ of these Master-Singers. At the age of fourscore he is said to have composed four thousand three hundred and seventy verses.

A word or two only respecting the language spoken at Strasbourg. From the relative situation of the town, this language would necessarily be of a mixed character: that is to say, there would be intermarriages between the Germans and French--and the offspring of such marriages would necessarily speak a _patois_. This seems to be generally admitted. The ancient language of Strasbourg is said to have been the pure dialect of _Suabia_; but, at present, the dialect of _Saxony_, which is thought to be purer as well as more fas.h.i.+onable, is carefully taught in the schools of both s.e.xes, and spoken by all the ministers in the pulpit. Luther wrote in this dialect, and all protestant preachers make use of it as a matter of course. Yet Hermann labours to prove how much softer the dialect of High Germany is than that of High Saxony. There have lately appeared several small brochures in the _common language_ of the town--such, of course, as is ordinarily spoken in the shops and streets: and among others, a comedy called; _Der Pfingst-Montag_, written (says Hermann) with much spirit; but the author of this latter work has been obliged to mark the p.r.o.nunciation, which renders the perusal of it somewhat puzzling. It is also accompanied with a glossary. But that you, or your friends, may judge for yourselves, I send you a specimen of the _patois_, or common language spoken in the street--in the enclosed ballad: which I purchased the other day, for about a penny of our money, from an old goody, who was standing upon a stool, and chanting it aloud to an admiring audience. I send you the first four stanzas.[228]

Im Namen der allerheiligsten Dreifaltigkeit

das goldene ABC,

Neu verfa.s.st fur Jedermann, da.s.s er mit Ehr' bestehen kann.

Alles ist an Gottes Segen, Was wir immer thun, gelegen, Arbeit aber bleibt doch unsre Pflicht: Der Trage hat den segen Gottes nicht.

Behalt' ein weises Maa.s.s in allen Stucken; Das Uebertriebne kann dich nicht beglucken.

Dies Sprichwort trifft in allen Dingen ein: Das Gute selbst muss eingeschranket seyn.

Christ! sey der Rache nicht ergeben, Der Zorn verbittert nur das Leben; Und wer dem Feinde gern verzeiht, Geniesst schon hier der Seligkeit.

Der wird verachtet von der Welt, Der das gegebne Wort nicht halt: Drum gieb dein Wort nich leicht von dir; Hast du's gethan, so steh' dafur.

_In the name of the most Holy Trinity._

THE GOLDEN A B C.

_Newly set forth to enable every man to stand fast in honour._

_Howe'er employed, we ev'ry nerve should strain On all our works G.o.d's blessings to obtain.

Whilst here on earth to labour we're ordain'd; The lazy never yet G.o.d's blessing gain'd._

_In all things strive a medium to procure; Redundance never can success insure: This proverb will in all things be found true, That good itself, should have its limits due.

Christian! avoid revenge and strife, For anger tends to embitter life: And he who readily forgives his foe, Ev'n here on earth true happiness shall know.

He who the promise he hath given denies, Will find the world most justly him despise; Be cautious then how thou a promise make, But, having made it, ne'er that promise break_.

DANNBACH is the princ.i.p.al Greek printer of this place; his Greek type (which I cannot too much commend) is precisely that used in the _Bipont Thucydydes_ and _Plato_. The princ.i.p.al printers, for works in which the Greek type is not introduced, is LEVRAULT _Pere et Fils_: and I must say that, if even a fastidious author, a resident Strasbourgeois,--whose typographical taste had been formed upon the beautifully executed volumes of Bodoni, Didot, or Bulmer--chose to publish a fine book, he need not send it to _Paris_ to be printed; for M. Levrault is both a skilful, intelligent, and very able printer and publisher. I visited him more than once. He has a considerable commercial establishment. His shop and warehouses are large and commodious; and Madame Levrault is both active and knowing in aiding and abetting the concerns of her husband. I should consider their house to be a rich one. M. Levrault is also a very fair typographical antiquary. He talked of Fust and Jenson with earnestness, and with a knowledge of their productions; and told me that he had, up stairs, a room full of old books, especially of those printed by _Aldus_--and begged I would walk up and inspect them. You will give me credit for having done so readily. But it was a "poor affair,"--for the fastidious taste of an Englishman. There was literally nothing in the way of temptation; and so I abstained from tempting the possessor by the offer of napoleons or golden ducats. We had a long and a very gratifying interview; and I think he shewed me (not for the purpose of sale) a copy of the famous tract of St.

Austin, called _De Arte praedicandi_, printed by _Fust_ or by _Mentelin_; in which however, as the copy was imperfect, he was not thoroughly conversant.

They are all proud at Strasbourg of their countryman Mentelin, and of course yet more so of Gutenberg; although this latter was a native of Mentz. Mr. Levrault concluded his conversation by urging me, in strong terms, to visit _Colmar_ ere I crossed the Rhine; as that place abounded with "DES INCUNABLES TYPOGRAPHIQUES." I told him that it was impossible; that I had a great deal on my hands to accomplish on the other side of the Rhine; and that my first great stroke, in the way of BOOK-ACQUISITIONS, must be struck at _Stuttgart_. M. Levrault seemed surprised--"for truly,"

(added he) "there are no _old_ books there, save in the _Public Library_."

I smiled, and wished him a good day.

Upon the whole, my dear friend, I have taken rather an affection for this place. All cla.s.ses of people are civil, kind, and communicative: but my obligations are due, in a more especial manner, to the younger Mr.

Schweighaeuser and to Madame Francs. I have pa.s.sed several pleasant evenings with the former, and talked much of the literature of our country with him and his newly married spouse: a lively, lady-like, and intelligent woman.

She is warm in commendation of the _Mary Stuart_ of Schiller; which, in reply to a question on my part, she considers to be the most impa.s.sioned of that Dramatist's performances. Of English she knows nothing; but her husband is well read in Thomson, Akenside, and Pope; and of course is sufficiently well acquainted with our language. A more amiable and zealous man, in the discharge of his duties as a teacher of youth, the town of Strasbourg does not possess. His little memoir of Koch has quite won my heart.[229]

You have heard me mention the name of OHMACHT, a sculptor. He is much caressed by the gentry of this place. Madame Francs shewed me what I consider to be his best performance; a profile, in white marble, of her late daughter, who died in childbed, in her twenty-first year. It is a sweet and tender production: executed upon the Greek model--and said to be a strong resemblance of the deceased. Madame Francs shewed it to me, and expatiated upon it with tears in her eyes: as she well might--for the _character_ of the deceased was allowed to have been as attractive as her countenance.[230] I will candidly confess that, in other respects, I am a very _qualified_ admirer of the talents of Ohmacht. His head of Oberlin is good; but it is only a profile. I visited his _Studio_, and saw him busy upon a colossal head of Luther--in a close-grained, but coa.r.s.e-tinted, stone. I liked it as little as I have always liked heads of that celebrated man. I want to see a resemblance of him in which vulgarity shall be lost in energy of expression. Never was there a countenance which bespoke greater intrepidity of heart.

I am hastening to the close of this despatch, and to take leave of this place. Through the interposition of Messrs. Treuttel and Wurtz, I have hired a respectable servant, or laquais, to accompany me to Vienna, and back again to Manheim. His name is _Rohfritsch_; and he has twice visited the Austrian capital in the rear of Napoleon's army,--when he was only in his sixteenth or seventeenth year--as a page or attendant upon one of the Generals. He talks the French and German languages with equal fluency. I asked him if we needed fire arms; at which he smiled--as if wondering at my simplicity or ignorance. In truth, the question was a little precipitate; for, the other evening, I saw two or three whiskered Bavarian travellers, starting hence for Munich, in an open, fourgon-shaped travelling carriage, with two benches across it: on the front bench sat the two gentlemen, wrapped round with clokes: on the hinder bench, the servant took his station--not before he had thrown into the carriage two huge bags of _florins_, as unconcernedly as if they had been bags of _pebbles_. They were to travel all night--without sabre, pistol, or carbine, for protection.

I own this gave me a very favourable opinion of the country I was about to visit; and on recollecting it, had good reason to acquiesce in the propriety of the smiles of Rohfritsch. Every thing, therefore, is now settled: gold ducats and silver florins have been obtained from Madame Francs; and to morrow we start. My next will be from _Stuttgart_--where a "deed of note" will, I trust, be accomplished. Fare you well.

[224] [This dinner party is somewhat largely detailed in the preceding edition of this work; but it scarcely merits repet.i.tion here; the more so, since the presiding Hostess is NO MORE!]

[225] _Hermann_; vol. i. p. 154.

[226] _greatly benefited by the Reformation_.]--Among the benefactors to the cause of public morality, was the late lamented and ever memorable KOCH. Before the year 1536, it should seem, from Koch's statement, that even whole streets as well as houses were occupied by women of a certain description. After this year, there were only two houses of ill fame left. The women, of the description before alluded to, used to wear black and white hats, of a sugar-loaf form, over the veil which covered their faces; and they were confined strictly to this dress by the magistrates. These women were sometimes represented in the sculptured figures about the cathedral. Hermann says that there may yet be seen, over the door of a house in the _Bickergase_ (one of the streets now called _Rue de la fontaine_, which was formerly devoted to the residence of women of ill fame) a bas-relief, representing two figures, with the following German inscription beneath:

_Diss haus steht in Gottes Hand Wird zu deu freud'gen kindern gennant._

which he translates thus:

_Cette maison; dans la main de Dieu, S'appelle aux enfans bien joyeux_.

It should seem, therefore, (continues Hermann) that this was one of the houses in which a public officer attended, to keep order, prevent quarrels, and exact munic.i.p.al rights. The book, in which the receipt of this tax was entered, existed during the time of the Revolution, and is thought to be yet in existence. Hermann, vol. i. p. 156.

[227] See p. 401 ante.

[228] For the English metrical version I am indebted to "an old hand at these matters."

[229] Since the publication of this Tour, I have received several pleasant and thoroughly friendly letters from the above excellent Individual: and I could scarcely forgive myself if I omitted this opportunity of annexing his autograph:--as a worthy companion to those which have preceded it.