The Book of Cheese Part 26

ELLIOTT, W. J., Creameries and cheese factories; organization, building and equipment, Mont. Exp. Sta. Bul.

53, 1904.

FARRINGTON, E. H., and G. H. BENKENDORF, Organization and construction of creameries and cheese factories, Wis. Exp.

Sta. Bul. 244, 1915.

VAN SLYKE, L. L., and C. A. PUBLOW, The science and practice of cheese making, pages 447-453, 1909.

Iowa Exp. Sta. Bul. 139, 1913. Creamery organization and construction.

CHAPTER XVIII

_HISTORY AND DEVELOPMENT OF THE CHEESE INDUSTRY IN AMERICA_

Just when the first cheese was made is not known. By the time the first immigrants came to America, cheese-making was rather generally known in Europe, so that the early settlers brought with them and practiced established methods. The countries of Europe developed different kinds of cheese and have since become noted for such particular varieties, for example: France, Camembert and Roquefort; Switzerland, Swiss cheese; England, Stilton and Cheddar; Germany, Limburger; Holland, Edam and Gouda; Italy, Parmesan and its allies, also Gorgonzola cheese. The manufacture of these various cheeses has been attempted in this country.

Because of the difference in climatic conditions and in some cases the use of milk of sheep or goats, it was and still is difficult to manufacture some of the European cheeses in America. Since the climatic conditions of this country and certain parts of England are somewhat similar, the manufacture of the cheeses of England predominated, and there was also more information on their manufacture. These are probably the reasons why the United States and Canada have become famous for Cheddar cheese.

The first cheeses of the Cheddar group were made on the farms. The work was usually performed by women, and the process was very simple. The methods were crude, and the cheeses were made in a more or less haphazard way. The milk of the evening was placed in a cheese tub in the dairy room and cooled to a temperature that would prevent souring. In most cases the cream that had raised to the surface of the night's milk was removed in the morning. This was considered an act of economy, for it was thought that in the process of manufacture it would all pa.s.s off in the whey and be lost. The morning's milk was then mixed with that of the evening and warmed to the setting temperature by placing a portion in a tin pail and suspending it in a kettle of hot water. When hot, it was emptied into the tub of cold milk. By transferring back and forth, the setting temperature was finally reached. Few of these settlers owned thermometers. Consequently, cheese-makers were obliged to depend on the sense of feeling to determine temperature.

One of the serious difficulties of the early manufacture was the production of rennet of a uniform strength. After the addition of the rennet and as soon as the coagulated milk became firm enough, it was broken into as small pieces as could be conveniently made, a wooden knife being used for the purpose. After standing ten minutes it was stirred by hand, breaking the pieces finer, and the temperature was gradually brought to 98 F., aiming as near blood heat as could be judged by the sense of feeling. It was kept at this temperature until the moisture was out of the curd and it would squeak between the teeth.

The whey was drawn off and the curd stirred until dry, salted and put to press. All the curd of one day was made into a cheese. This resulted in small uneven-sized cheese. Since such cheeses were made from the milk of single dairies with all the surroundings clean, the flavor was usually good but the texture was open and soft. The method of caring for the cheese and marketing was entirely different from that practiced at the present time. All the cheeses made during the entire season were held until fall and marketed at one time. They were packed in casks four to six in a package, one on top of the other. The earliest date when single boxed cheeses were on the market was 1841.

Between 1820 and 1840, a small export trade in cheese was started. As this demand for cheese increased, particularly in England, it became necessary to change the methods employed in manufacture. The farm dairy cheese was rather an open-textured sweet curd product. If not, it was due more to accident than to any intention of the cheese-maker to improve the quality. One of the early complaints from England was that the cheeses were too small and uneven in size. The practice of making on the farm continued until about 1851, when the factory system was started, although home manufactures continued after that time. Following are the reasons for the change from the farm to factory system: (1) England demanded larger cheese; (2) the farm product was not uniform; (3) the quality of the farm cheese did not suit the English trade; (4) factories saved much labor on the farms; and (5) could secure higher prices.

+297. The factory system.+--Where and by whom the first Cheddar cheese factory in America was started is not definitely known. Jesse Williams of Oneida County, New York, is supposed by many to have been the first to build and operate under the factory system, in 1851. Cheese factories were opened in Ohio and Wisconsin about 1860. In the period 1860 to 1870, a large number of cheese factories were built in the various states, especially New York, Ohio and Wisconsin.

+298. Introduction of factory system in Canada.+--In 1863, Harvey Farrington of Herkimer, New York, was so impressed with the opportunity of developing the cheese factory system in Canada that he sold out his business in New York and established the first Canadian cheese factory in the town of Norwich, Ontario. It was accepted at once by Canadian farmers, and factory cheese-making increased rapidly. In 1866, a small quant.i.ty of cheese was exported and from that time the export trade of Canada has been large and growing. Ontario and Quebec are now the leading provinces in the production of cheese.

+299. Introduction of cheddaring.+--The factories at first used the same process as the farms, namely the stirred-curd process. In 1867, Robert McAdam introduced the English Cheddar system in a factory near Herkimer, New York. This is the Cheddar system as known to-day. It produces the closer bodied cheese demanded by the export trade. This introduction made Herkimer County famous for its cheese.

+300. Introduction of Swiss and Limburger.+--In 1870, factories for Limburger, Swiss and Brick cheese were started and have gradually increased. In New York such plants are located around Boonville in Oneida County, and Theresa, in Jefferson County. In Wisconsin, Swiss cheese-making was begun by a colony of Swiss who came to New Glarus, Green County. It is now made in Green, Lafayette, Iowa, Grant, Dane and Rock counties. Limburger and Brick are manufactured in Dodge, Fond du Lac, Winnebago, Marathon, La Crosse, Buffalo, Trempealeau, Clark, Was.h.i.+ngton, Dunn, Barron and Lincoln counties. In the southeastern part of Ohio Swiss cheese is produced. Ohio and Wisconsin have manufactured more of these cheeses, especially Swiss, than any other states. This is probably due to the fact that the conditions are more nearly like those of Switzerland.

When the cities in New York began to grow, an increased demand for market milk was felt. The result was that the dairy-men could not supply both the cities and the cheese factories with milk. A large part of the cheese was being exported and most of it had always been partly skimmed.

The amount of skimming, therefore, was largely increased. Then other animal fats were subst.i.tuted for the milk-fat. This product was known as "filled" cheese. The delay in controlling the practice of making skimmed-milk and filled cheese ruined the export trade. In Canada laws prohibited the making of filled cheese and as a consequence Canadian Cheddar cheese is still very popular in England. However, with the control of skimmed-milk cheese-making and the elimination of filled cheese, the volume continued to grow and to find outlet in local consumption. New York probably exported more cheese than any other state. Wisconsin s.h.i.+pped cheese into other regions, especially the southern states in which no cheeses were made. Some Wisconsin cheeses were s.h.i.+pped to the New York market from time to time, but in October, 1913, the first quotations[133] were made in New York City for Wisconsin products.

+301. Number and distribution of cheese factories.+--The following list and maps (Figs. 65, 66) compiled in 1914 by the United States Department of Agriculture Dairy Division, show the number of cheese factories in the different states and their location:

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 65.--Map showing the distribution of cheese factories in the princ.i.p.al cheese-producing states.]

Arizona 3 California 93 Colorado 8 Connecticut 2 Delaware 1 Illinois 50 Indiana 13 Iowa 25 Kansas 1 Maine 5 Michigan 196 Minnesota 74 Missouri 4 Montana 1 Nebraska 1 New Hamps.h.i.+re 2 New York 995 North Dakota 3 Ohio 111 Oklahoma 1 Oregon 42 Pennsylvania 106 South Dakota 1 Utah 8 Vermont 35 Virginia 3 Was.h.i.+ngton 15 West Virginia 1 Wisconsin 1720 ---- 3520

+302. Total production of cheese in the United States.+--The following figures (Table XX) compiled by the United States Census show the total production of cheese and the amount made on farms and in factories in the United States by ten-year periods:

TABLE XX

SHOWING THE TOTAL PRODUCTION OF CHEESE AND PART MADE ON FARMS AND IN FACTORIES IN THE UNITED STATES BY TEN-YEAR PERIODS

1849 Total 105,535,893 pounds

1859 Total 103,663,927 pounds

1869 Total 162,927,382 pounds

1879 Total 243,157,850 pounds

1889 On farms 18,726,818 pounds In factories 238,035,065 pounds Total 256,761,883 pounds

1899 On farms 16,372,330 pounds In factories 281,972,324 pounds Total 298,344,654 pounds

1909 On farms 9,405,864 pounds In factories 311,126,317 pounds Total 320,532,181 pounds

Comparing the figures of 1899 with those of 1909, it is seen that the total production of cheese in the United States increased 22,187,539 pounds, or an increase of 7.4 per cent in 1909 over 1899. During the same years the amount made on the farms decreased 6,966,454 pounds, or a decrease of 42.6 per cent, while the amount made in factories increased 29,153,933 pounds or 10.3 per cent.

+303. Rank of the leading cheese-producing states.+--The rank of the leading cheese states according to the number of factories in 1914 was: Wisconsin 1720, New York 995, Michigan 196, Ohio 111, Pennsylvania 106.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 66.--Showing the cheese factories in the Pacific coast states.]

The table on the opposite page (Table XXI) shows the amount of cheese produced by the five states with the largest number of factories. This table indicates that New York led in the production of cheese until some time between 1899 and 1909. This is probably because, New York having so many cities, the demand for market milk is so large that it is sold as such instead of being manufactured into cheese. There is about the same number of milch cows in New York and Wisconsin. However, Wisconsin is credited with more cheese in 1909 than New York ever produced and this output probably will increase, as there are considerable areas of undeveloped agricultural land in Wisconsin. It is also interesting to note that Ohio is falling off in cheese production. This may be due to the increased demand for market milk. On the other hand, production has increased in Pennsylvania.

TABLE XXI

SHOWING THE AMOUNT OF CHEESE MADE IN FIVE LEADING STATES BY TEN-YEAR PERIODS

----------+----------+-----------+-----------+-----------+ STATE YEAR 1859 YEAR 1869 YEAR 1879 YEAR 1889 ----------+----------+-----------+-----------+-----------+ Amount in Amount in Amount in Amount in pounds pounds pounds pounds Wisconsin 1,104,300 3,288,581 19,535,324 54,614,861 New York 48,548,289 100,776,012 129,163,714 124,086,524 Michigan 1,641,897 2,321,801 3,953,585 5,370,460 Ohio 21,618,893 24,153,876 32,531,683 22,254,054 Penn 2,508,556 2,792,676 8,966,737 5,457,897 ----------+----------+-----------+-----------+-----------+

----------+-----------+-----------+-----------+ STATE YEAR 1899 YEAR 1909 YEAR 1914 ----------+-----------+-----------+-----------+ Amount in Amount in Amount in pounds pounds pounds from factories only Wisconsin 79,384,298 148,906,910 205,920,915 New York 130,010,584 105,584,947 97,614,024 Michigan 10,753,758 13,673,336 13,267,145 Ohio 19,363,528 12,473,834 8,717,996 Penn 11,124,610 12,676,713 14,808,573 ----------+-----------+-----------+-----------+

+304. Exportation and importation of cheese by the United States.+--The accompanying table shows the exports and imports of cheese from 1851 to 1916 and their values, in so far as the figures are available.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 67.--Showing relations.h.i.+p of total production, exports and imports of cheese.]

One noteworthy item in Table XXII is that the exports have gradually decreased and imports increased. This is probably because immigrants have demanded the cheeses of their native country which were not made in America. The exports for the years 1915 and 1916 are interesting as they show the effect of the war on the cheese industry, the imports being gradually decreased and the exports greatly increased.

TABLE XXII

SHOWING THE IMPORTS AND EXPORTS OF CHEESE BY THE UNITED STATES FROM 1851-1916

------+----------------------+-------------------------- YEAR IMPORTS EXPORTS ------+-----------+----------+-------------+------------ Amount Amount in Value in in Value in pounds dollars pounds dollars 1851 603,398 ---- 10,361,189 ---- 1852 514,337 ---- 6,650,420 ---- 1853 874,949 ---- 3,763,932 ---- 1854 969,417 ---- 7,003,974 ---- 1855 1,526,942 ---- 4,846,568 ---- 1856 1,384,272 ---- 8,737,029 ---- 1857 1,400,252 ---- 6,453,072 ---- 1858 1,589,066 ---- 8,098,527 ---- 1859 1,409,420 ---- 7,103,323 ---- 1860 1,401,161 ---- 15,515,799 ---- 1861 1,090,835 ---- 32,361,428 ---- 1862 594,822 ---- 34,052,678 ---- 1863 545,966 ---- 42,045,054 ---- 1864 836,127 ---- 47,751,329 ---- 1865 985,362 ---- 53,154,318 ---- 1866 ---- ---- 36,411,985 ---- 1867 1,738,657 ---- 52,352,127 ---- 1868 2,997,994 ---- 51,097,203 ---- 1869 ---- ---- 39,960,367 ---- 1870 ---- ---- 57,296,327 ---- 1871 ---- ---- 63,698,867 ---- 1872 ---- ---- 66,204,025 ---- 1873 ---- ---- 80,366,540 ---- 1874 ---- ---- 90,611,077 ---- 1875 ---- ---- 101,010,853 ---- 1876 ---- ---- 97,676,264 ---- 1877 ---- ---- 107,364,666 ---- 1878 ---- ---- 123,783,736 ---- 1879 ---- ---- 141,654,474 ---- 1880 ---- ---- 127,553,907 ---- 1881 ---- ---- 147,995,614 ---- 1882 ---- ---- 127,989,782 ---- 1883 ---- ---- 99,220,467 ---- 1884 6,243,014 ---- 112,869,575 ---- 1885 6,247,560 ---- 111,992,990 ---- 1886 6,309,124 ---- 91,877,235 1887 6,592,192 ---- 81,255,994 1888 8,750,185 ---- 88,008,458 1889 8,207,026 ---- 84,999,828 1890 9,263,573 ---- 95,376,053 1891 8,863,640 ---- 82,133,876 1892 8,305,288 ---- 82,100,221 1893 10,195,924 ---- 81,350,923 1894 8,742,851 ---- 73,852,134 1895 10,276,293 ---- 60,448,421 1896 10,728,397 ---- 36,777,291 1897 12,319,122 ---- 50,944,617 1898 10,012,188 ---- 53,167,280 1899 11,826,175 ---- 38,198,753 1900 13,455,990 ---- 48,419,353 1901 15,329,099 ---- 39,813,517 1902 17,067,714 $2,551,366 27,203,184 $2,745,597 1903 20,671,384 3,183,224 18,987,178 2,250,229 1904 22,707,103 3,284,811 23,335,172 2,452,239 1905 23,095,705 3,379,600 10,134,424 1,084,044 1906 27,286,866 4,303,830 16,562,451 1,940,620 1907 33,848,766 5,704,012 17,285,230 2,012,626 1908 32,530,830 5,586,706 8,439,031 1,092,053 1909 35,548,143 5,866,154 6,822,842 857,091 1910 40,817,524 7,053,570 2,846,709 441,017 1911 45,568,797 7,920,244 10,366,605 1,288,279 1912 46,542,007 8,807,249 6,337,559 898,035 1913 49,387,944 9,185,184 2,599,058 441,186 1914 63,784,313 11,010,693 2,427,577 414,124 1915 50,138,520 9,370,048 55,362,917 8,463,174 1916 30,087,999 7,058,420 44,394,301 7,430,089 ------+-----------+----------+-------------+------------

The graph (Fig. 67) represents the total production and the exports and imports of cheese into the United States.

+305. Average yearly price of cheese.+--The following table shows the average yearly price of Cheddar cheese in the United States: