Julia Ward Howe Part 47

In the shops of wine and oil For the scanty house of toil; Give just measure, housewife grave, Thrifty shouldst thou be, and brave.

Hunger comes.

Only here the blind man lags, Here the cripple, clothed with rags.

Such a motley Lazarus Shakes his piteous cap at us.

Hunger comes.

Oh! could Jesus pa.s.s this way Ye should have no need to pray.

He would go on foot to see All your depths of misery.

Succor comes.

He would smooth your frowzled hair, He would lay your ulcers bare, He would heal as only can Soul of G.o.d in heart of man.

Jesus comes.

Ah! my Jesus! still thy breath Thrills the world untouched of death.

Thy dear doctrine showeth me Here, G.o.d's loved humanity Whose kingdom comes.

The summer was spent in France; in November they sailed for Egypt.

"_November 27, Egypt._ Land early this morning--a long flat strip at first visible. Then Arabs in a boat came on board. Then began a scene of unparalleled confusion, in the midst of which Cook's Arabian agent found me and got my baggage--helping us all through quietly, and with great saving of trouble.... A drive to see Pompey's Pillar and obelisk. A walk through the bazaar. Heat very oppressive. Delightful drive in the afternoon to the Antonayades garden and villa.... Mr. Antonayades was most hospitable, gave us great bouquets, and a basket of fruit."

"_Cairo._ Walked out. A woman swung up and down in a box is brown-was.h.i.+ng the wall of the hotel. She was drawn up to the top, quite a height, and gradually let down. Her dress was a dirty blue cotton gown, and under that a breech-cloth of dirty sackcloth. We were to have had an audience from the third Princess[85] this afternoon, and were nearly dressed for the palace when we were informed that the reception would take place to-morrow, when there will be a general reception, it being the first day of Bairam. Visit on donkey-back to the bazaars, and gallop; sunset most beautiful."

[85] The favorite wife of the Khedive.

"Up early, and all agog for the palace. I wore my black velvet and all my [few] diamonds, also a white bonnet made by Julia McAllister[86] and trimmed with her lace and Miss Irwin's white lilacs. General Stone sent his carriage with _sais_ richly dressed. Reception was at Abdin Palace--row of black eunuchs outside, very grimy in aspect. Only women inside--dresses of bright pink and yellow satin, of orange silk, blue, lilac, white satin. Lady in waiting in blue silk and diamonds. In the hall they made us sit down, and brought us cigarettes in gilt saucers.

We took a whiff, then went to the lady in waiting who took us into the room where the three princesses were waiting to receive us. They shook hands with us and made us sit down, seating themselves also. First and second Princesses on a sofa, I at their right in a fauteuil, on my left the third Princess. First in white brocaded satin, pattern very bright, pink flowers with green leaves. Second wore a Worth dress of corn brocade, trimmed with claret velvet; third in blue silk. All in stupendous diamonds. Chibouks brought which reached to the floor. We smoke, I poorly,--mine was badly lighted,--an attendant in satin brought a fresh coal and then the third Princess told me it was all right.

Coffee in porcelain cups, the stands all studded with diamonds.

Conversation rather awkward. Carried on by myself and the third Princess, who interpreted to the others. Where should we go from Cairo?

Up the Nile, in January to Constantinople."

[86] A cousin who was of the party.

"Achmed took me to see the women dance, in a house where a wedding is soon to take place. Dancing done by a one-eyed woman in purple and gold brocade--house large, but grimy with dirt and neglect. Men all in one room, women in another--several of them one-eyed, the singer blind--only instruments the earthenware drum and castanets worn like rings on the upper joints of the fingers. Arab cafe--the story-teller, the one-stringed violin...."

"To the ball at the Abdin Palace. The girls looked charmingly. Maud danced all the night. The Khedive[87] made me quite a speech. He is a short, thickset man, looking about fifty, with grizzled hair and beard.

He wore a fez, Frank dress, and a star on his breast. Tewfik Pasha, his son and heir, was similarly dressed. Consul Farman presented me to both of them. The suite of rooms is very handsome, but this is not the finest of the Khedive's palaces. Did not get home much before four in the morning. In the afternoon had visited the mosque of Sultan Abdul Ha.s.san...."

[87] Ismail Pasha.

After Cairo came a trip up the Nile, with all its glories and discomforts. Between marvel and marvel she read Herodotus and Mariette Bey a.s.siduously.

"_Christmas Day._ Cool wind. Native _reis_ of the boat has a brown woollen capote over his blue cotton gown, the hood drawn over his turban. A Christmas service. Rev. Mr. Stovin, English, read the lessons for the day and the litany. We sang 'Nearer, my G.o.d, to Thee,' and 'Hark, the herald angels sing.' It was a good little time. My thoughts flew back to Theodore Parker, who loved this [first] hymn, and in whose 'meeting' I first heard it. Upper deck dressed with palms--waiters in their best clothes...."

"To-day visited a.s.siout, where we arrived soon after ten in the morning.

Donkey-ride delightful, visit to the bazaar. Two very nice youths found us out, pupils of the American Mission. One of these said, 'I also am Christianity.' Christian pupils more than one hundred. Several Moslem pupils have embraced Christianity.... This morning had a very sober season, lying awake before dawn, and thinking over this extravagant journey, which threatens to cause me serious embarra.s.sment."

And again:--

"The last day of a year in which I have enjoyed many things, wonderful new sights and impressions, new friends. I have not been able to do much useful work, but hope to do better work hereafter for what this year has shown me. Still, I have spoken four times in public, each time with labor and preparation--and have advocated the causes of woman's education, equal rights and equal laws for men and women. My heart greatly regrets that I have not done better, during these twelve months.

Must always hope for the new year."

The record of the new year (1879) begins with the usual aspirations:--

"May every minute of this year be improved by me! This is too much to hope, but not too much to pray for. And I determine this year to pa.s.s no day without actual prayer, the want of which I have felt during the year just past. Busy all day, writing, was.h.i.+ng handkerchiefs, and reading Herodotus."

On January 2, she "visited Blind School with General Stone--Osny Effendi, Princ.i.p.al. Many trades and handicrafts--straw matting, boys--boys and girls weaving at hand loom--girls spinning wool and flax, crochet and knitting--a lesson in geography. Turning lathe--bought a cup of rhinoceros horn."

On January 4 she is "sad to leave Egypt--dear beautiful country!"

"_Jerusalem, January 5._ I write in view of the Mount of Olives, which glows in the softest sunset light, the pale moon showing high in the sky. Christ has been here--here--has looked with his bodily eyes on this fair prospect. The thought ought to be overpowering--is inconceivable."

"_January 9._ In the saddle by half past eight in the morning. Rode two hours, to Bethlehem. Convent--Catholic. Children at the school. Boy with a fine head, Abib. In the afternoon mounted again and rode in sight of the Dead Sea. Mountains inexpressibly desolate and grand. Route very rough, and in some places rather dangerous.... Grotto of the Nativity--place of the birth--manger where the little Christ was laid.

Tomb of St. Jerome. Tombs of two ladies who were friends of the Saint.

Later the plains of Boaz, which also [is] that where the shepherds heard the angels. Encamped at Marsaba. Greek convent near by receives men only. An old monk brought some of the handiwork of the brethren for sale. I bought a stamp for flat cakes, curiously cut in wood. We dined luxuriously, having a saloon tent and an excellent cook.... Good beds, but I lay awake a good deal with visions of death from the morrow's ride."

"_January 10._ [In camp in the desert near Jericho.] 'Shoo-fly'[88]

waked us at half past five banging on a tin pan and singing 'Shoo-fly.'

We rose at once and I felt my terrors subside. Felt that only prayer and trust in G.o.d could carry me through. We were in the saddle by seven o'clock and began our perilous crossing of the hills which lead to the Dead Sea. Scenery inexpressibly grand and desolate. Some frightful bits of way--narrow bridle paths up and down very steep places, in one place a very narrow ridge to cross, with precipices on either side. I prayed constantly and so felt uplifted from the abjectness of animal fear.

After a while we began to have glimpses of the Dead Sea, which is beautifully situated, shut in by high hills, quite blue in color. After much mental suffering and bodily fatigue on my part we arrived at the sh.o.r.es of the sea. Here we rested for half an hour, and I lay stretched on the sands which were very clean and warm! Remounted and rode to Jordan. Here, I had to be a.s.sisted by two men [they lifted her bodily out of the saddle and laid her on the ground] and lay on my shawl, eating my luncheon in this att.i.tude. Fell asleep here. Could not stop long enough to touch the water. We rested in the shade of a clump of bushes, near the place where the baptism of Christ is supposed to have taken place. Our cans were filled with water from this sacred stream, and I picked up a little bit of hollow reed, the only souvenir I could find. Remounted and rode to Jericho. Near the banks of the Jordan we met a storm of locusts, four-winged creatures which annoyed our horses and flew in our faces. John the Baptist probably ate such creatures.

Afternoon ride much better as to safety, but very fatiguing. Reached Jericho just after sunset, a beautiful camping-ground. After dinner, a Bedouin dance, very strange and fierce. Men and women stood in a semicircle, lighted by a fire of dry thorns. They clapped their hands and sang, or rather murmured, in a rhythm which changed from time to time. A chief danced before them, very gracefully, threatening them with his sword, with which he played very skilfully. They sometimes went on their knees as if imploring him to spare them. He came twice to our tent and waved the sword close to our heads, saying, '_Taih backsheesh_.' The dance was like an Indian war-dance--the chief made a noise just like the war-whoop of our Indians. The dance lasted half an hour. The chief got his backsheesh and the whole troop departed. Lay down and rested in peace, knowing that the dangerous part of our journey was over."

[88] A negro attendant.

"_In Camp in the Desert. January 11._ In the saddle by half past seven.

Rode round the site of ancient Jericho, of which nothing remains but some portions of the king's highway. Ruins of a caravanserai, which is said to be the inn where the good Samaritan lodged his patient. Stopped for rest and luncheon, at Beth--and proceeded to Bethany, where we visited the tomb of Lazarus. I did not go in--then rode round the Mount of Olives and round the walls of Jerusalem, arriving at half past three in the afternoon. I became very stiff in my knees, could hardly be mounted on my horse, and suffered much pain from my knee and abrasions of the skin caused by the saddle. Did not get down at the tomb of Lazarus because I could not have descended the steps which led to it, and could not have got on my horse again. When we reached our hotel, I could not step without help, and my strength was quite exhausted. I say to all tourists, avoid Cook's dreadful hurry, and to all women, avoid Marsaba! This last day, we often met little troops of Bedouins travelling on donkeys--sometimes carrying with them their cattle and household goods. I saw a beautiful white and black lamb carried on a donkey. Met three Bedouin hors.e.m.e.n with long spears. One of these stretched his spear across the way almost touching my face, for a joke."

"_Jerusalem. Sunday, January 12._ English service. Communion, interesting here where the rite was inst.i.tuted. I was very thankful for this interesting opportunity."

"_January 15._ Mission hospital and schools in the morning. Also Saladin's horse. Wailing place of the Jews and some ancient synagogues.

In the afternoon walked to Gethsemane and ascended the Mount of Olives.

In the first-named place, sang one verse of our hymn, 'Go to dark Gethsemane.' Got some flowers and olive leaves...."

After Jerusalem came Jaffa, where she delivered an address to a "circle"

at a private house. She says:--

"In Jaffa of the Crusaders, Joppa of Peter and Paul, I find an American Mission School, kept by a worthy lady from Rhode Island. Prominent among its points of discipline is the clean-washed face, which is so enthroned in the prejudices of Western civilization. One of her scholars, a youth of unusual intelligence, finding himself clean, observes himself to be in strong contrast with his mother's hovel, in which filth is just kept clear of fever point. 'Why this dirt?' quoth he; 'that which has made me clean will cleanse this also.' So without more ado, the process of scrubbing is applied to the floor, without regard to the danger of so great a novelty. This simple fact has its own significance, for if the innovation of soap and water can find its way to a Jaffa hut, where can the ancient, respectable, conservative dirt-devil feel himself secure?"

Apropos of mission work (in which she was a firm believer), she loved to tell how one day in Jerusalem she was surrounded by a mob of beggars, unwashed and unsavory, clamoring for money, till she was well-nigh bewildered. Suddenly there appeared a beautiful youth in spotless white, who scattered the mob, took her horse's bridle, and in good English offered to lead her to her hotel. It was as if an angel had stepped into the narrow street.

"Who are you, dear youth?" she cried.

"I am a Christian!" was the reply.

In parting she says, "Farewell, Holy Land! Thank G.o.d that I have seen and felt it! All good come to it!"

From Palestine the way led to Cyprus ("the town very muddy and bare of all interest") and Smyrna, thence to Constantinople. Here she visited Robert College with great delight. Returning, she saw the "Sultan going to Friday's prayers. A melancholy, frightened-looking man, pale, with a large, face-absorbing nose...."