Three Years in Tristan da Cunha Part 22

Poor Mr. Keytel had a most unpleasant episode with one of the new-comers, who swore at him, and took off his coat to fight him, coming up to him two or three times. This happened before all the men and women. It appears the man was annoyed because Mr. Keytel was not on the sh.o.r.e when the boats came in. Mr. Keytel remained perfectly calm but told him he should fish no longer for him. He will have nothing more to do with him unless he apologizes.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FISH-CLEANING]

_Friday, December_ l8.--We had a diversion to-day. Betty Cotton hurried in to say a steamer was making for the settlement. Graham soon followed and said we must pack at once, for the steamer might be coming for us, and if not, might take us. Mr. Keytel was going off, and we asked him to hoist a flag if the captain was ready to take us. We packed as fast as we could and were surprised how quickly we did it. There was no delay, for we had made a list of what had to be put in at the last moment. Repetto came down and helped. When we had nearly finished he looked through his gla.s.s again and saw the boats returning and the steamer moving on. For the moment it was a blow, for we had to unpack and return to our normal life again.

After comparing notes, we think the steamer saw the boats and stopped, but the men not realizing this turned for home. It would not have been a good day to go, for the sea was choppy and probably all our things would have got wet. There was too much surf for the boats to land on this beach. We don't regret not having gone, since we should like to be here for Christmas; indeed, we do not want to leave before the end of March.

I am still visiting Ruth, as her neck is not yet right; the only thing to do seems to be to go on poulticing it.

We wish it were possible for the Henry Greens to send their youngest child to the Cape to see a doctor. He is nearly four and cannot talk yet; the parents say he has once or twice said words and that he understands everything said to him.

_Sat.u.r.day, December_ 19.--Another eventful day. A whaler appeared and two boats were to be seen coming from it. It was the _Canton_, the whaler that was here last year with Walter Swain on board. This time it brought a mail from St. Helena. It was not a very exciting one, as it contained mostly papers. But the Postmaster of St. Helena most kindly sent two parcels of toys and some copy-books, which were particularly acceptable. He has been so kind in remembering the island each time a whaler has come from St.

Helena. We had an agreeable surprise, Walter Swain bringing us letters sent through his owners, Messrs. Wing Bros, of New Bedford.

_Tuesday, December_ 22.--A cry of "Sail, ho!" was raised during school. It was a wet and foggy morning. As the fog lifted for a moment, a four-masted vessel was seen coming straight for Hottentot Point. It was close in and in a few minutes would have been on the rocks. The captain must have had a great shock when he found how near land he was. The s.h.i.+p was seen to head out as fast as it could and was soon again lost to view in the fog.

Last Sunday was a very disorganized day. The captain of the whaler, a coloured man, came ash.o.r.e and said he must leave that day as the weather was changing. I believe he would have waited had the men made a stand.

With the exception of Henry Green and Repetto they were at work all day, digging up potatoes, carting them to the beach, and taking them off to the s.h.i.+p, from which they did not return till dark. They did very well, getting at least ten barrels of flour.

_Sat.u.r.day, December_ 26.--There was not much time for writing on Christmas Day. Mr. Keytel came in to supper, after which we played games, and then had a long chat, not getting off to bed till nearly eleven o'clock--very late for us primitive folk. The services were not largely attended, many heads of families being absent; but the elder boys and girls attended well. We had no need to cook a dinner for we had roast pig sent us by three different families, also a berry pie.

We are taking a short holiday, and intend next week, if fine, to go to Seal Bay for a day or two. William is to go with us to carry the baggage.

_Sunday, December_ 27.--The weather seems more settled and we hope to start early to-morrow morning. William is most keen upon our going and has donkeys ready.

CHAPTER x.x.xIV

_Seal Bay, Monday, December_ 28.--Well, I must tell of all our doings from the beginning. We went to bed last night before eight, and were up this morning by four o'clock. Our packing did not take long. My possessions were a rug, air cus.h.i.+on, bathing dress, pair of stockings, comb, towel, tooth-brush, soap, knitting, a gospel, sketching things, a book and camera. We started at six, Ellen, Mary Repetto and Sophy Rogers accompanying us as far as the Bluff, which is five miles out. Ellen and I rode on donkeys and a third carried the baggage. Graham very much hoped we should be able to keep to the sh.o.r.e by wading round the Bluff, which is not always possible as the sea sometimes dashes against the cliff with much force. It would only have taken a few minutes and would have saved a long climb over the Bluff. However, William, who is timid, was dead against it, so we chose the hill. It meant hard climbing over several ridges and took us about an hour and a half. Ellen and the girls kept with us till the descent began, when we bid them farewell. We filed along the side of the mountain for some time and found it rather rough walking, the track leading through long gra.s.s in which were hidden holes and stones. At last we got down to the sh.o.r.e, and after a sandy bit had three miles of clambering and stepping over boulders and big stones. This was really hard work, if only because one was obliged to hold the head down in order to pick every step. At last we got near the end of it, and coming to a stream trickling down the cliff--how we welcomed the water, for we were hot and thirsty!--we sat down and had our lunch.

_Tuesday, December_ 29.--To continue the account. We had now come to a very picturesque part, and were nearly at Seal Bay. On the sh.o.r.e was a clump of rocks forming an archway. Rocks like these are rather a feature on this side of the island. We had now a short but stiff climb; holding on to tufts of stubbly reed-like gra.s.s we pulled ourselves up to the top of the cliff. Here we were on fairly level ground, an uneven plain nearly three miles long, the first part of which had its gra.s.s thickly strewn with tiny ferns. The sweet-scented geranium abounded and so did the crowberry, which is a finer and sweeter kind than that which grows nearer the settlement. We frequently stopped to refresh ourselves with it.

Near a gulch we sat down for a good rest, and then trudged on to Seal Bay.

The scenery was fine, high mountains with long, gra.s.sy slopes. We soon got to the cave on the sh.o.r.e which the men generally occupy, a poor sort of shelter. The first thing we now did was to cook our supper. Boiling water was soon ready for the tea and steaming potatoes for the cold meat.

Supper over I went to a pool to wash up, and found the water quite warm.

The next thing was to find a sleeping-place. We went along the sh.o.r.e in search of a cave and in about ten minutes came to two side by side. One was immense--long, broad and lofty--and we immediately marked it off as our drawing-room. The other was just as small; it had a good open frontage, but was only about seven feet broad; it would do, though, to sleep in. Both were floored with clean sand and fairly dry. Close by we saw troops of penguins, which looked so delightfully quaint hopping and running in long files to the sea. They have such an ancient look as they move with bent body and head poking forward. We finally decided to sleep in the open on a sand bank, which was still warm from the sun. We found the best plan was to scoop out a place to lie in and heap up sand for a pillow. We had left William busy blocking up his cave with planks, and stopping up every crevice with tussock, so that not a breath of cold air should enter. Sleep would not come to us, and the roar of the waves das.h.i.+ng on the beach a few yards below us did not help to bring it. The wind, rising, began to blow the sand in our faces. This was a little too much, so about two o'clock Graham got up and lit the fire which he had already laid just inside the cave, and soon we were sitting and warming ourselves at its blaze. Then we tried the cave and got a little sleep, but were awakened by William at four. We sent him off to fish, and after resting a little longer, got up and had a bathe. There were rather big breakers, and I was knocked down but was none the worse. William, who as a rule is no fisherman, had caught six fish, and I superintended the boiling of them for breakfast, while Graham went for fresh water, which is only to be had some distance off.

_Wednesday, December 30_.--We started betimes yesterday for Stony Beach and found it a longer walk than I expected. We went along the sh.o.r.e, part of the way over boulders, then on to the side of the hill, where I photographed two mollyhawks on their nest. I also took photographs at different points along the sh.o.r.e. We at last got on to a gra.s.sy slope. We were feeling tired, but trudged on. As we neared Stony Hill we heard the galloping of wild cattle, and soon a troop of them appeared. Happily, we were well out of their course, for they are sometimes dangerous. This part of the way was very tiring and we were thankful--at least I was--when we got to the wooded valley which was our destination. Amongst the trees were flocks of noisy penguins. We were now in a most lovely part; it was really beautiful, and the view up the valley wild and fine. We settled down under the shade of the trees, made a fire and had a meal, after which Graham and William wandered away. I thankfully found a shady spot under a tree and had a rest. Then roused myself and tried to sketch. It was very hot and one did not feel energy for anything, not even to read. After a time Graham and William returned; they had wandered on to the opposite hill, from where I had heard their voices. Graham was anxious I should see the valley, so at last I mustered energy enough to stroll up. I was glad I went, for the view was very grand. We toiled up the side of the valley on to a ridge and looked down on Stony Beach, which lay at a great depth below. Scattered along it in a half-circle were hundreds of penguins.

We slowly made our way down again, resting when we could under the shade of trees. We got back to the place where we lunched, made some tea, and had a hard-boiled egg each and some bread-and-b.u.t.ter, but not much, as we had to husband our food. It was about six, and we thought it time to start back to Seal Bay. We could not stay at Stony Beach, as we knew of no shelter. Walking across the moor, we kept a look-out for the cattle and spied them some distance away on higher ground; they appeared to be watching our movements narrowly. We came back quickly and got to our quarters in an hour and thirty-five minutes, just as it was getting dusk.

We sat down at the mouth of our cave; then Graham and William lit the fire and put the potatoes on to boil. I sat near and at intervals progged the potatoes. It came on to rain slightly, but the cave just sheltered us.

William slept in a corner against the wall, near where the fire had been.

Graham got up in the middle of the night and put a rug over him, as he had not been able to sleep much the night before on account of feeling cold.

I never had a better night, and felt refreshed, though tired. It has been very showery, but we managed to go off for a bathe and found a better place than yesterday's: a place between two rocks, into which the sea rushed at frequent intervals. We enjoyed a lazy morning. While Graham and William played cricket in the large cave, I rested in the other. When I looked in upon them a little later I found them stretched at full length, with pocket-handkerchiefs over their faces, which told its own tale.

There is lying on the rocks here the trunk of a large tree, which was first washed up on Tristan in 1894. It then measured, Repetto says, 120 feet to 140 feet in length, and 20 feet in girth.

[Ill.u.s.tration: HOTTENTOT GULCH]

_Thursday, December_ 3l.--Here we are, at home again, feeling decidedly tired, but having much enjoyed our holiday in the open air. We spent a very quiet day yesterday. In the afternoon I sketched an archway of rock.

Then I went along the sh.o.r.e in search of Graham and William. The latter was trying, without either hook or bait, to catch fish, and caught three crawfish, one of which we had for supper. This morning we were up soon after four and had our bathe; the sun was just rising. We returned to prepare breakfast. William was to have had the fire lit, but we found he had used all his matches in vain. The fire was made to burn at last and breakfast cooked and over, we packed our knapsacks and started for home.

We got across the plain fairly well and down the cliff, which was not an easy descent, on to the sh.o.r.e. It took us one hour and twenty-five minutes scrambling over the stones and boulders of the sh.o.r.e, and we went very quickly, just taking a respite now and again. In some parts, where there had been landslips, it was not safe to halt. We were glad when we got over this part, but the worst was to come. The mountain had a heavy mist over it. Before we began to ascend it we sat in Anherstock Gulch and had lunch.

We were very thirsty and the only water we could get was some rain-water in the hollow of a rock. The ascent was steep, and before we had gone far rain came on. Then we had to walk along the side of the mountain in a narrow path bordered and overhung by dripping ferns. The last part was very steep and I kept stumbling over my wet skirt, and really if William had not a.s.sisted me, I do not know how I should have got up. Graham had as much as he could do to drag up the load on his back. From the heights which we now reached we could see the Bluff and make out figures which we guessed were awaiting us. Before long we got down to them and found they were Ellen and the children. She had brought donkeys and also a dry skirt and waterproof for me, which I was thankful to put on. The donkeys soon were saddled and we set off home. The saddles were men's and lacked stirrups. We came home at a tremendous pace, and it was as much as I could do to stick on. Graham, relieved of his load, ran behind and kept the donkey going. Knowing we were wet through, he would not listen to my entreaties to let the animals walk, so we raced the five miles home. As we neared the houses people came out to greet us, and were glad to see we were safely back. Only a few of the women have been to Stony Beach, and I doubt if any have been up the valley. In the evening the men came round, as is their custom on New Year's Eve, and in the intervals of playing and drinking tea were most interested in hearing about our expedition. They think we went about thirty-two miles.

CHAPTER x.x.xV

_Tuesday, January 5, 1909_.--We have had another excursion. Thinking we would make the most of the holiday, yesterday we went with some of the young people up to the Ponds. It was our intention to start early, but the weather looked uncertain, so we waited awhile. At last we started off. Our party of eleven included Alfred, Maria and Johnny Green, William and Sophy Rogers, Emma Hagan, and Mary, Martha and Susan Repetto. We had a short walk over the sands going east, and then one of the stiff climbs, now becoming quite familiar, up the mountains, but we climbed leisurely, picking and eating berries as we went. It was a really hard climb at the end. Having reached the top we walked along a gulch, where I took two photographs, and from there got on to a moor which was covered with high-growing ferns, making walking difficult. We had about three miles of this and then reached the Ponds. They are close together, and the top one flows into the middle one and that again into the third. We descended to the first and there sat down for lunch, and how thankful we were to rest no words can say. Mary undertook the boiling of the water drawn from the pond; there was not much wood and a strong wind, and it seemed as if it would never boil. After lunch, as it was blowing rather cold, we moved on, making a detour along the opposite hill round the second pond to the third. The ponds lie in very deep, round basins, the sides of which in many places are thick with trees. We did not attempt to go down to the two last. Returning, we thought we would try a short cut across the moor to the edge of the mountain. Andrew Hagan, who had joined us, advised us not to try this, but the spirit of adventure was upon us, and so we and the children set forth. We certainly got into many pitfalls. We had numerous small ravines to cross and their almost impossible banks to scramble up, and at times had to push our way through bushes and ferns. We came across a good many mollyhawks sitting on their nests, which they seem to frequent after their young ones have flown. We saw one or two of the young; they are so pretty and are covered with a blue fluffy down. It was not easy to keep Rob and Scotty from molesting them. We clambered down the mountain fairly quickly. William most thoughtfully had told Ned to meet us with the donkey, and I was most thankful for it. It was getting on for eight by the time we got home. Graham thinks we must have been about fifteen miles. I think it was the most tiring expedition we have had, but do not regret having gone. The children enjoyed themselves immensely, and it was delightful to hear their peals of laughter; they were here, there, and everywhere.

_Tuesday, January_ l2.--Mr. Keytel is encountering many difficulties. The fact is, the men are not pulling together, which is due to the new-comers, who have done an untold amount of mischief in every way. There are divisions and quarrels among them, and their morals are bad.

Six men who last week went to Inaccessible returned on Sunday. They had hoped to do some sealing, but could not get into the cave. I am sorry to say one of them purposely set fire to the tussock gra.s.s, which has been burning for three days. The fire can be seen from here, twenty-five miles away. The men say that thousands of birds must have been destroyed, as it is their nesting time. It is horrible to think of.

We started school again last Monday, after more than a fortnight's holiday. For some time the elder Swain girls have left off coming to school, and now William means to leave; he is eighteen, and is wanted for work. While I write I hear the cheerful strains of a concertina which he is playing.

_Friday, January 15_.--Soon after four this morning the settlement was awakened by terrific cries of "Sail, ho!" Some smoke was seen, and it was first thought to be that of a steamer, but there was so much it seemed to be a s.h.i.+p on fire. The men went off and did not get back till the evening, as they had a long distance to go. The s.h.i.+p was a whaler melting the blubber of a whale caught the night before. They had on deck the half of the head, inside of which men were digging with spades--which gives an idea of its size. The whale in Tristan waters is the Southern Right Whale.

_Sat.u.r.day, January 16_.--A vessel emerged from the mist to-day. In a marvellously short time the men were off to her. She was a Norwegian one bound for Australia, and had made a quick run of fourteen days from Rio Janeiro. After the men returned in the evening they had to go off again with sheep and potatoes to the whaler, which was standing out to the east.

We sat on the cliff once more, looking at the busy scene on the beach and watching with interest the boys guiding down the steep road the bullock-carts, which at times looked as if they would heave over, and indeed one did. The men will probably not be back till the small hours of the morning, which will make a working-day of nearly twenty-four hours for them, as they were up very early digging potatoes for the whaler.

_Monday, January_ l8.--The men failed to catch the whaler on Sat.u.r.day night. I suppose the captain had given them up and moved further out. They got back about 2 o'clock, and after a few hours' rest went off again to her, returning in the evening. This morning, just before starting for church, a third s.h.i.+p was sighted in the far distance.

We have had rather uncertain weather lately, with a good deal of wind. The last few days have been hot and misty. The flower garden has not done very well this year, partly due to the wind.

The s.h.i.+p that was sighted to-day was another whaler. It was too breezy for the men to go out to it, so they went to dig potatoes to be ready for to-morrow.

_Wednesday, January_ 20.--In the late afternoon I was sketching the mountains with the houses below, so as to give an idea of the great height of the overshadowing cliffs. It was rather too ambitious a sketch. I sat out on the plain right away from the houses.

_Sat.u.r.day, January_ 23.--Yesterday being Sophy Rogers' birthday, we went in the afternoon for a picnic. The invited were all those who attend the knitting-cla.s.s. We went a little way west and had tea in a ravine. Mary Repetto, who is generally the leading spirit, superintended the boiling of the water. Afterwards the girls had rounders on the plain, playing with great zest. It was amusing to watch their different characters. Mary, intensely in earnest and galloping round at terrific speed; at the same time trying to keep every one else up to the mark; her face showing displeasure or amus.e.m.e.nt with lightning rapidity. Her sister Martha, very serious and looking rather hara.s.sed. Sophy, a tall, rather pretty girl, taking all in good part and entering into the game with great enjoyment.

Maria, who is decidedly staid, playing well, but not letting herself go.

Emma, the tallest of all, good-natured, and enjoying herself immensely, but taking things easily. Susan, as active as a young goat and full of laughter. We joined for a game, but I was soon glad to take my place again as a spectator.

_Thursday, January_ 28.--Most of the men are walling in new potato patches. The young Swains are going to build a house. This will be the first that has been put up for at least ten years. The difficulty will be to get wood enough. The men do not care much for building.

Graham talks of going up to the Peak again, and I may possibly go too; we should not do it in a day, but camp out for at least one night. The hardest part is the ascent from the settlement on to the Base.

_Monday, February_ 1.--Last Sat.u.r.day Henry had rather a bad fall from his donkey. He was going at a good pace when the crupper broke, and he was thrown over the donkey's head on to the stony track. He hurt his neck, cut his face, and the inside of his mouth. Calling this morning, I found his mouth was festering inside, and as he thought there was grit there, at his wife's suggestion I syringed it. The grit had lodged in a hole, and it took nearly an hour to dislodge it. Even then I was not sure it was all out, and so promised to go up again this afternoon, and, syringing again, more came out. I hope the wound may now heal quickly.

Graham and Mr. Keytel have been exploring this afternoon. They wanted to find the way to the Base from a certain point. I did not realize till the other day that when we climb to the Base we are considerably higher than the Malvern Hills.

Mr. Keytel has had to throw away a great number of his dried fish. Some had become fly-blown, and some mildewed. The north wind does so much damage in moistening things, and so causing food to spoil.

_Monday, February_ 8.--This evening I was sitting on the common, having just finished sketching, when, looking up, I saw the poor sheep being driven hither and thither by one of Henry Green's dogs, which the girls were powerless to stop. It ran the sheep to the edge of the cliff, and two, in their fright, ran down to the sh.o.r.e and one was nearly drowned.

But the girls followed; and Martha got hold of the sheep by its tail and with the a.s.sistance of the others drew it out of the sea.

_Wednesday, February_ 10.--Most of the men have gone off to Inaccessible.

The island has now been on fire for a month.