Buffalo Land Part 29

"Of the country, Alexander Majors says, in a letter to the writer of this article: 'The favorite wintering ground of my herders for the past twenty years has been from the Cache a la Poudre on the south to Fort Fetterman on the north, embracing all the country along the eastern base of the Black Hills.' It was of this country that Mr. Seth E. Ward spoke, when he says: 'I am satisfied that no country in the same lat.i.tude, or even far south of it, is comparable to it as a grazing and stock-raising country. Cattle and stock generally are healthy, and require no feeding the year round, the rich 'bunch' and 'gramma' gra.s.ses of the plains and mountains keeping them, ordinarily, fat enough for beef during the entire winter,'

"All this region east of the Black Hills is at an elevation less than five thousand feet. The climate, as reported from Fort Laramie for a period of twenty years, is 50 Fahrenheit. The mean temperature for the spring months is 47, for the summer months 72, for autumn 60, for winter 31. The annual rain-fall is about eighteen inches--distributed as follows: Spring, 8.69 inches; summer, 5.70 inches; autumn, 3.69 inches. The snow fall is eighteen inches.

"There is in the North Platte Basin, east of the Black Hills divide, at least eight million acres of pasturage, with the finest and most lasting streams, and good shelter in the bluffs and canyons. As I have said before, we can only judge of the extent and resources of such a single region by comparison. Ohio has six million sheep, yielding eighteen million pounds of wool, bringing herd farmers an aggregate of four and one-half million dollars. This eight million acres of pasture would at least feed eight million sheep, yielding twenty-four million pounds of wool, and, at the same price as Ohio wool, six million dollars. Now, this money, instead of going to build up ranches, stock-farms, store-houses, woolen mills, and all the components of a great and thrifty settlement, is sent by our wool-growers and woollen manufacturers to Buenos Ayres, to Africa, and Australia, to enrich other people and other lands, while our wool-growing resources remain undeveloped.

"As you follow the North Platte up through the Black Hill Canyon, you come out upon the great Laramie plains, which lie between the Black Hills on the east and the snowy range on the west. These plains are ninety miles north and south, and sixty miles east and west. They are watered by the Big and Little Laramie Rivers, Deer Creek, Rock Creek, Medicine Bow River, Cooper Creek, and other tributaries of the North Platte. It is on the extreme northern portion of these plains, in the valley of Deer Creek, that General Reynolds wintered during the winter of 1860, and of which he remarks, on pages seventy-four and seventy-five of his 'Explorations of the Yellowstone," as follows:

"Throughout the whole season's march the subsistence of our animals had been obtained by grazing after we had reached our camp in the afternoon, and for an hour or two between the dawn of day and our time of starting.

The consequence was that, when we reached our winter quarters there were but few animals in the train that were in a condition to have continued the march without a generous grain diet. Poorer and more broken-down creatures it would be difficult to find. In the spring they were in as fine condition for commencing another season's work as could be desired.

A greater change in their appearance could not have been produced even if they had been grain-fed and stable-housed all winter. Only one was lost, the furious storm of December coming on before it had gained sufficient strength to endure it. The fact that seventy exhausted animals, turned out to winter on the plains the first of November, came out in the spring in the best condition, and with the loss of but one of their number, is the most forcible commentary I can make on the quality of the gra.s.s and the character of the winter.'

"These plains have been favorite herding grounds of the buffalo away back in the pre-historic age of this country. Their bones lie bleaching in all directions, and their paths, deeply worn, cover the whole plain like a net-work. Their 'wallows,' where these s.h.a.ggy lords of animal creation tore deep pits into the surface of the ground, are still to be seen. Elk, antelope, and deer still feed here, and the mountain sheep are found on the mountain sides and in the more secluded valleys of the Sierra Madre range--all proving conclusively that this has afforded winter pasturage from time immemorial. Since 1849 many herds of work-oxen, belonging to emigrants, freighters, and ranchmen, have grazed here each winter.

"South of the Laramie plains is the North Park, one of three great parks of the Rocky Mountains, so fully described by Richardson, Bross, and Bowles. This North Park is formed by the great Snowy Range. It is a valley from six to eight thousand feet high, ninety miles long, and forty miles wide, surrounded by snowy mountains from thirteen to fifteen thousand feet high. These mountain tops and sides are completely covered with dense growths of forests; the lower hill-sides and this great valley are covered with gra.s.ses. The forests and mountains afford ample shelter from sweeping winds. Here, as well as on the Laramie plains, the buffalo grazed in great herds; and here the Ute hunters, from some hidden canyons, dashed down among them on their trained and fleet ponies, shooting their arrows with unerring aim on all sides, and having such glorious sport as kings might court and envy. The Indians are now gone from this valley, and the buffalo nearly so. On the two million acres in this valley not twenty head of cattle graze.

"This great park, splendidly watered by the three forks of the Platte, and by a hundred small streams that drain these lofty mountains of their snows and rains--rich in all kinds of nutritious gra.s.ses, plentifully supplied with timber; on the tertiary coal fields, with iron, copper, lead, and gold--has not one real settler. There are a few miners, but where there should be flocks and herds of sheep and cattle without number, there is only the wild game--the elk, antelope, and deer."

THE VALLEYS OF THE WHITE EARTH AND NIOBRARA.

These streams are branches of the Missouri--the one mainly in Dakota Territory, and the other in Nebraska. The following graphic paragraphs concerning them are from Hayden again:

"I have spent many days exploring this region (the White Earth Valley) when the thermometer was 112 in the shade, and there was no water suitable for drinking purposes within fifteen miles. But it is only to the geologist that this place can have any permanent attraction. He can wind his way through the wonderful canyons among some of the grandest ruins in the world. Indeed, it resembles a gigantic city fallen to decay. Domes, towers, minarets and spires may be seen on every side, which a.s.sume a great variety of shapes when viewed in the distance. Not unfrequently the rising or the setting sun will light up these grand old ruins with a wild, strange beauty, reminding one of a city illuminated in the night, when seen from some high point. The harder layers project from the sides of the valley or canyon with such regularity that they appear like seats, one above the other, of some vast amphitheater.

"It is at the foot of these apparent architectural remains that the curious fossil treasures are found. In the oldest beds we find the teeth and jaws of a Hyopotamus, a river-horse much like the hippopotamus, which must have sported in his pride in the marshes that bordered this lake. So, too, the t.i.tanotherum, a gigantic pachyderm, was a.s.sociated with a species of hornless rhinoceros. These huge rhinoceroid animals appear at first to have monopolized this entire region, and the plastic, sticky clay of the lowest bed of this basin, in which the remains were found, seems to have formed a suitable bottom of the lake in which these thick-skinned monsters could wallow at pleasure."

Of the _fauna_ of the Niobrara and Loup Fork Valleys, he speaks as follows: "In the later fauna were the remains of a number of species of extinct camels, one of which was of the size of the Arabian camel, a second about two-thirds as large. Not less interesting are the remains of a great variety of forms of the horse family, one of which was about as large as the ordinary domestic animal, and the smallest not more than two or two and a half feet in height, with every intermediate grade in size."

NEW MEXICO--ITS SOIL, CLIMATE, RESOURCES, ETC.

Bordering on what might be called the south-western corner of the plains, or perhaps more properly forming, over its eastern half, part of them, lies New Mexico. I find the following valuable description of the soil, climate, and productions of this section in the report of Prof.

Cyrus Thomas:

"The best estimate I can make of the arable area of the Territory is about as follows: In the Rio Grande district, one twentieth, or about two thousand eight hundred square miles; in the strip along the western border, one-fiftieth, or about six hundred square miles; in the north-eastern triangle, watered by the Canadian River, one-fifteenth, or about one thousand four hundred square miles. This calculation excludes the 'Staked Plains,' and amounts in the aggregate to four thousand eight hundred square miles, or nearly two million nine hundred thousand acres.

This, I am aware, is larger than any previous estimate that I have seen; but when the country is penetrated by one or two railroads, and a more enterprising agricultural population is introduced, the fact will soon be developed that many portions now considered beyond the reach of irrigation will be reclaimed. I do not found this estimate wholly upon the observations made in the small portions I have visited, but, in addition thereto, I have carefully examined the various reports made upon special sections, and have obtained all the information I could from intelligent persons who have resided in the Territory for a number of years.

"As the Territory includes in its bounds some portions of the Rocky Mountain range on which snow remains for a great part of the year, and also a semi-tropical region along its southern boundary, there is, of necessity, a wide difference in the extremes of temperature. But, with the exception of the cold seasons of the higher lands at the north, it is temperate and regular. The summer days in the lower valleys are quite warm, but, as the dry atmosphere rapidly absorbs the perspiration of the body, it prevents the debilitating effect experienced where the air is heavier and more saturated with moisture. The nights are cool and refres.h.i.+ng. The winters, except in the mountainous portions at the north, are moderate, but the difference between the northern and southern sections during this season is greater than during the summer.

The amount of snow that falls is light, and seldom remains on the ground longer than a few hours. The rains princ.i.p.ally fall during the months of July, August, and September, but the annual amount is small, seldom exceeding a few inches. When there are heavy snows in the mountains during the winter, there will be good crops the following summer, the supply of water being more abundant, and the quant.i.ty of sediment carried down greater, than when the snows are light. Good crops appear to come in cycles--three or four following in succession; then one or two inferior ones.

"During the autumn months the wind is disagreeable in some places, especially near the openings between high ridges, and at the termini of or pa.s.ses through mountain ranges. There is, perhaps, no healthier section of country to be found in the United States than that embraced in the boundaries of Colorado and New Mexico; in fact, I think I am justified in saying that this area includes the healthiest portion of the Union. Perhaps it is not improper for me to say that I have no personal ends to serve in making this statement, not having one dollar invested in either of these Territories in any way whatever; I make it simply because I believe it to be true. Nor would I wish to be understood as contrasting with other sections of the Rocky Mountain region, only so far as these Territories have the advantage in temperature. It is possible Arizona should be included, but, as I have not visited it, I can not speak of it.

"There is no better place of resort for those suffering with pulmonary complaints than here. It is time for the health-seekers of our country to learn and appreciate the fact that within our own bounds are to be found all the elements of health that can possibly be obtained by a tour to the eastern continent, or any other part of the world; and that, in addition to the invigorating air, is scenery as wild, grand, and varied as any found amid the Alpine heights of Switzerland. And here, too, from Middle Park to Los Vegas, is a succession of mineral and hot springs of almost every character.

"The productions of New Mexico, as might be inferred from the variety of its climate, are varied, but the staples will evidently be cattle, sheep, wool, and wine, for which it seems to be peculiarly adapted. The table-lands and mountain valleys are covered throughout with the nutritious gramma and other gra.s.ses, which, on account of the dryness of the soil, cure upon the ground, and afford an inexhaustible supply of food for flocks and herds both summer and winter. The ease and comparatively small cost with which they can be kept, the rapidity with which they increase, and exemption from epidemic diseases, added to the fact that winter-feeding is not required, must make the raising of stock and wool-growing a prominent business of the country--the only serious drawback at present being the fear of the hostile Indian tribes. But, as these remarks apply equally well to all these districts, I will speak farther in regard to this matter when I take up the subject of grazing in this division.

"The cattle and sheep of this Territory are small, because no care seems to be taken to improve the breed. San Miguel County appears to be the great pasturing ground for sheep, large numbers being driven here from other counties to graze. Don Romaldo Baca estimates that between five hundred thousand and eight hundred thousand are annually pastured here--about two-thirds of which are driven in from other sections. His own flocks number between thirty thousand and forty thousand head; those of his nephew twenty-five thousand to thirty thousand; Mr. Mariano Trissarry, of Bernalillo County, owns about fifty-five thousand; and Mr.

Gallegos, of Santa Fe, nearly seventy thousand head.

"Don Romaldo Baca stated to me that his flocks yielded him an annual average of about one and a half pounds of washed wool to the sheep; that the average price of sheep was not more than two dollars per head; that the wool paid all expenses, and left the increase, which is from fifty to seventy-five per cent. per annum, as his profit. From these figures some estimate may be formed of what improved sheep would yield.

"Wheat and oats grow throughout the Territory, but the former does not yield as heavily in the southern as in the northern part. If any method of watering the higher plateau is ever discovered, I think that it will produce heavier crops of wheat than the Valley of the Rio Grande.

"Corn is raised from the Vermijo, on the east of the mountains, around to the Culebra, on the inside; in fact, it is the princ.i.p.al crop of San Miguel County, but the quality and yield is inferior to that which can be produced in the Rio Grande Valley and along the Rio Bonito. The southern portion of the Rio Pecos Valley and the Canadian bottoms are probably the best portions of the Territory for this cereal.

"Apples will grow from the Taos Valley south, but peaches can not be raised to any advantage north of Bernalillo, in the central section; but it is likely they would do well along some of the tributaries and main valley of the Canadian River. They also appear to grow well and produce fruit without irrigation in the Zuni country; and the valley of the Mimbres is also adapted to their culture. Apricots and plums grow wherever apples or peaches can be raised. I neglected to obtain any information in regard to pears, but, judging from the similarity of soil and climate here to that of Utah and California, where this fruit grows to perfection, I suppose that in the central and southern portions it would do well.

"The grape will probably be the chief, or at least the most profitable, product of the soil. The soil and climate appear to be peculiarly adapted for its growth, and the probability is that, as a grape-growing and wine-producing section, it will be second only to California. From Col. McClure I learned that the amount of wine made in 1867 was about forty thousand gallons, and that the crop of 1869 would probably reach one hundred thousand gallons. I have not been informed since whether his estimate was verified or not. A good many vineyards were planted in 1869--at least double the number of 1868. Several Americans, antic.i.p.ating the building of a railroad through that section, have engaged in this branch of agriculture. The wine that is made here is said to be of an excellent quality.

"Beets here, as in Colorado, grow to an enormous size, and it is quite likely that the sugar beet would not only yield heavy crops, but also contain a large per cent. of saccharine matter. I am rather inclined to believe that soil which is impregnated with alkaline matter will favor the production of the saccharine principle. I base this opinion wholly on observations made in Utah in regard to its effect on fruit; therefore experiments may prove that I am wholly mistaken. It is possible the experiment has been tried; if so, I am not aware of it.

"The Irish potatoes are inferior to those raised further north. Cabbages grow large and fine. Onions from the Raton Mountains south have the finest flavor of any I ever tasted, and therefore I am not surprised that Lieut. Emory found the dishes at Bernalillo 'all dressed with the everlasting onion.' But, as to the 'Chili,' or pepper, which is so extensively raised and used in New Mexico, I beg to be excused, unless I can have my throat lined with something less sensitive than nature's coating. Sweet potatoes have been successfully tried in the vicinity of Fort Sumner and along the head-waters of the Rio Bonito. Melons, pumpkins, frijoles, etc., are raised in profusion in the lower valleys; and I understand cotton was formerly grown in limited quant.i.ties.

"As a general thing, the mountains afford an abundance of pine for the supply of lumber and fuel to those sufficiently near to them. Some of the valleys have a limited amount of cottonwood growing along them. In addition to pine, spruce and cottonwood, the stunted cedar and mesquit, which is found over a large area, may be used for fuel. The best timbered portion of the Rio Grande Valley is between Socorro and Dona Ana. The east side of the Guadalupe range has an abundant supply of pine of large size. Around the head-waters of the Pecos is some excellent timber. Walnut and oak are found in a few spots south, but in limited quant.i.ties, and of too small a size to be of much value."

THE DISAPPEARING BISON.

In connection with this general review of Buffalo Land, it is interesting to note that while civilization, advancing from the east, pushes our bison west, another tide of human beings, creeping out from the mountains eastward, presses the buffalo back before it. The brute mult.i.tude is thus between two advancing lines, which will soon crush it.

In confirmation of this, I find the following in Hayden's notes of the country along the base of the Laramie Mountains:

"These broad, gra.s.sy plains are not yet entirely dest.i.tute of their former inhabitants; flocks of antelope still feed on the rich, nutritious gra.s.ses; but the buffalo, which once roamed here by thousands, have disappeared forever. No trace of them is now left but the old trails, which pa.s.s across the country in every direction, and the bleached skulls which are scattered here and there over the ground.

These traces are fast pa.s.sing away. The skulls are decaying rapidly, and this once peculiar feature of the landscape in the West will be lost.

Two years ago I collected a large quant.i.ty of these bleached skulls and distributed them to several of our museums, in order to insure their preservation.

"There is also a singular ethnological fact connected with these skulls.

We shall observe that the greater part of them have the forehead broken in for a s.p.a.ce of three or four inches in diameter. Whenever an Indian kills a buffalo, he fractures the skull with his tomahawk and extracts the brains, which he devours in a raw state.

"Indians or old trappers traveling through the enemy's country always fear to build a fire, lest the smoke attract the notice of the foe. The consequence is that they have contracted the habit of eating certain parts of an animal in an uncooked condition. I have estimated that six men may make a full meal from a buffalo without lighting a fire. The ribs on one side are taken out with a knife, and the concavity serves as a dish. The brains are taken out of the skull, and the marrow from the leg-bones, and the two are chopped together in the rib-dish. The liver and lungs are eaten with a keen relish; also certain portions of the intestines; and the blood supplies an excellent and nutritious drink.

"Both Indian and buffalo have probably disappeared forever from these plains. Elk, black-tailed deer, red deer, mountain sheep, wolves, and the smaller animals, are still quite abundant, especially in the valleys of the small streams, where they flow down through the mountains. Elk Mountain and Sheephead Mountain have always been noted localities for these animals."

THE FISH WITH LEGS.

But while the buffalo has become extinct in that locality, an inhabitant of the water may be preparing (query: in support of the theory of development?) to take its place. I quote again from Hayden:

"There are other attractions here, of which the traveler will be informed long before he reaches the locality. The 'fish with legs' are the only inhabitants of the lake, and numbers of persons make it a business to catch and sell them to travelers. During the summer season they congregate in great numbers in the shallow water among the weeds and gra.s.s near the sh.o.r.e, and can be easily caught; but in cold weather they retire to the deeper portions of the lake, and are not seen again until spring. These little animals are possessed of gills, and, were it not for the legs, would most nearly resemble a miniature cat-fish. But when warm weather comes, a form closely resembling them, but entirely dest.i.tute of gills, may be seen in the water swimming, or creeping clumsily about on land. Sometimes they travel long distances, and are found in towns, near springs or wet places, usually one at a time, while those with gills are never seen except in the alkaline lakes which are so common all over the West."

THE MOUNTAIN SUPPLY OF LUMBER FOR THE PLAINS.

In connection with this (the western) border of the plains, it is interesting to note what the same writer says, of a future supply of lumber:

"Not only in the more lofty ranges, but also in the lower mountains, are large forests of pine timber, which will eventually become of great value to this country. Vast quant.i.ties of this pine, in the form of railroad ties, are floated down the various streams to the Union Pacific Railroad. One gentleman alone contracted for five hundred and fifty thousand ties, all of which he floated down the stream from the mountains along the southern side of the Laramie Plains. The Big and Little Laramie, Rock Creek, and Medicine Bow River, with their branches, were here literally filled with ties at one time; and I was informed that, in the season of high water, they can be taken to the railroad from the mountains, after being cut and placed in the water, at the rate of from one to three cents each. These are important facts, inasmuch as they show the ease with which these vast bodies of timber may be brought to the plains below and converted into lumber, should future settlement of the country demand it."