History of the Buccaneers of America Part 13

[Sidenote: Bad Water, and Unhealthiness of Ria Lexa.] They remained at _Ria Lexa_ some days longer to take in fresh water, 'such as it was,' and they experienced from it the same bad effects which it had on Davis's men; for, joined to the unwholesomeness of the place, it produced a malignant fever, by which several were carried off.

[Sidenote: September. On the Coast of New Spain.] On September the 3d, they put to sea, four sail in company, i. e. the Cygnet, Townley's s.h.i.+p, and two tenders; the total of the crews being 340 men.

[Sidenote: Tornadoes.] The season was not favourable for getting Westward along this coast. Westerly winds were prevalent, and scarcely a day pa.s.sed without one or two violent tornadoes, which were accompanied with frightful flashes of lightning, and claps of thunder, 'the like,' says Dampier, 'I did never meet with before nor since.' These tornadoes generally came out of the NE, very fierce, and did not last long. When the tornado was pa.s.sed, the wind again settled Westward. On account of these storms, Swan and Townley kept a large offing; but towards the end of the month, the weather became settled. On the 24th, Townley, and 106 men in nine canoes, went on Westward, whilst the s.h.i.+ps lay by two days with furled sails, to give them time to get well forward, by which they would come the more unexpectedly upon any place along the coast.

[Sidenote: October.] Townley proceeded, without finding harbour or inlet, to the Bay of _Tecuantepeque_, where putting ash.o.r.e at a sandy beach, the canoes were all overset by the surf, one man drowned, and some muskets lost. Townley however drew the canoes up dry, and marched into the country; but notwithstanding that they had not discovered any inlet on the coast, they found the country intersected with great creeks not fordable, and were forced to return to their canoes. A body of Spaniards and Indians came to reconnoitre them, from the town of _Tecuantepeque_, to seek which place was the chief purpose of the Buccaneers when they landed. 'The Spanish books,' says Dampier, 'mention a large river there, but whether it was run away at this time, or rather that Captain Townley and his men were shortsighted, I know not; but they did not find it.'

October the 2d, the canoes returned to the s.h.i.+ps. The wind was fresh and fair from the ENE, and they sailed Westward, keeping within short distance of the sh.o.r.e, but found neither harbour nor opening. They had soundings all the way, the depth being 21 fathoms, a coa.r.s.e sandy bottom, at eight miles distance from the land. [Sidenote: Island Tangola.] Having run about 20 leagues along the coast, they came to a small high Island called _Tangola_, on which they found wood and water; and near it, good anchorage. 'This Island is about a league distant from the main, which is pretty high, and savannah land by the sea; but within land it is higher and woody.'---- [Sidenote: Guatulco. El Buffadore, a spouting Rock.] 'We coasted a league farther, and came to _Guatulco_, in lat.i.tude 15 30', which is one of the best ports in this Kingdom of _Mexico_. Near a mile from the mouth of the harbour, on the East side, is a little Island close by the main-land. On the West side of the mouth of the harbour, is a great hollow rock, which by the continual working of the sea in and out, makes a great noise, and may be heard a great way; every surge that comes in, forces the water out at a little hole at the top, as out of a pipe, from whence it flies out just like the blowing of a whale, to which the Spaniards liken it, and call it _El Buffadore_. Even at the calmest seasons, the beating of the sea makes the waterspout out at the hole, so that this is always a good mark to find the harbour of _Guatulco_ by.

[Sidenote: The Harbour of Guatulco.] The harbour runs in NW, is about three miles deep, and one mile broad. The West side of the harbour is the best for small s.h.i.+ps to ride in: any where else you are open to SW winds, which often blow here. There is clean ground any where, and good gradual soundings from 16 to 6 fathoms: it is bounded by a smooth sandy sh.o.r.e, good for landing; and at the bottom of the harbour is a fine brook of fresh water running into the sea. The country is extraordinary pleasant and delightful to behold at a distance[65].'

There appeared to be so few inhabitants at this part of the coast, that the Buccaneers were not afraid to land their sick. A party of men went Eastward to seek for houses and inhabitants, and at a league distance from _Guatulco_ they found a river, named by the Spaniards _El Capalita_, which had a swift current, and was deep at the entrance. They took a few Indians prisoners, but learnt nothing of the country from them. [Sidenote: Vinello, or Vanilla, a Plant.] On the 6th, Townley with 140 men marched fourteen miles inland, and in all that way found only one small Indian village, the inhabitants of which cultivated and cured a plant called _Vinello_, which grows on a vine, and is used to perfume chocolate, and sometimes tobacco.

The 10th, the canoes were sent Westward; and on the 12th, the s.h.i.+ps followed, the crews being well recovered of the _Ria Lexa_ fever. 'The coast (from _Guatulco_) lies along West and a little Southerly for 20 or 30 leagues[66].' [Sidenote: Island Sacrificio.] On account of a current which set Eastward, they anch.o.r.ed near a small green Island named _Sacrificio_, about a league to the West of _Guatulco_, and half a mile from the main. In the channel between, was five or six fathoms depth, and the tide ran there very swift.

[Sidenote: Port de Angeles.] They advanced Westward; but slowly. The canoes were again overset in attempting to land near _Port de Angeles_, at a place where cattle were seen feeding, and another man was drowned.

Dampier says, 'We were at this time abreast of _Port de Angeles_, but those who had gone in the canoes did not know it, because the Spaniards describe it to be as good a harbour as _Guatulco_. It is a broad open bay with two or three rocks at the West side. There is good anchorage all over the bay in depth from 30 to 12 fathoms, but you are open to all winds till you come into 12 fathoms, and then you are sheltered from the WSW, which is here the common trade-wind. Here always is a great swell, and landing is bad. The place of landing is close by the West side, behind a few rocks. Lat.i.tude 15 N. The tide rises about five feet. The land round _Port de Angeles_ is pretty high, the earth sandy and yellow, in some places red.' The Buccaneers landed at _Port de Angeles_, and supplied themselves with cattle, hogs, poultry, maize, and salt; and a large party of them remained feasting three days at a farm-house. The 27th, they sailed on Westward.

Some of their canoes in seeking _Port de Angeles_ had been as far Westward as _Acapulco_. In their way back, they found a river, into which they went, and filled fresh water. Afterwards, they entered a _lagune_ or lake of salt water, where fishermen had cured, and stored up fish, of which the Buccaneers took away a quant.i.ty.

[Sidenote: Adventure in a Lagune.] On the evening of the 27th, Swan and Townley anch.o.r.ed in 16 fathoms depth, near a small rocky Island, six leagues Westward of _Port de Angeles_, and about half a mile distant from the main land. The next day they sailed on, and in the night of the 28th, being abreast the lagune above mentioned, a canoe manned with twelve men was sent to bring off more of the fish. The entrance into the lagune was not more than pistol-shot wide, and on each side were rocks, high enough and convenient to skreen or conceal men. The Spaniards having more expectation of this second visit than they had of the first, a party of them, provided with muskets, took station behind these rocks. They waited patiently till the canoe of the Buccaneers was fairly within the lagune, and then fired their volley, and wounded five men. The buccaneer crew were not a little surprised, yet returned the fire; but not daring to repa.s.s the narrow entrance, they rowed to the middle of the lagune, where they lay out of the reach of shot. There was no other pa.s.sage out but the one by which they had entered, which besides being so narrow was a quarter of a mile in length, and it was too desperate an undertaking to attempt to repa.s.s it. Not knowing what else to do, they lay still two whole days and three nights in hopes of relief from the s.h.i.+ps.

It was not an uncommon circ.u.mstance among the Buccaneers, for parties sent away on any particular design, to undertake some new adventure; the long absence of the canoe therefore created little surprise in the s.h.i.+ps, which lay off at sea waiting without solicitude for her return; till Townley's s.h.i.+p happening to stand nearer to the sh.o.r.e than the rest, heard muskets fired in the lagune. He then sent a strong party in his canoes, which obliged the Spaniards to retreat from the rocks, and leave the pa.s.sage free for the hitherto penned-up Buccaneers. Dampier gives the lat.i.tude of this lagune, 'about 16 40' N.'

[Sidenote: November. Alcatraz Rock. White Cliffs. River to the West of the Cliffs.] They coasted on Westward, with fair weather, and a current setting to the West. On November the 2d, they pa.s.sed a rock called by the Spaniards the _Alcatraz_ (Pelican.) 'Five or six miles to the West of the rock are seven or eight white cliffs, which are remarkable, because there are none other so white and so thick together on all the coast. A dangerous shoal lies SbW from these cliffs, four or five miles off at sea.

Two leagues to the West of these cliffs is a pretty large river, which forms a small Island at its mouth. The channel on the East side is shoal and sandy; the West channel is deep enough for canoes to enter.' The Spaniards had raised a breastwork on the banks of this channel, and they made a show of resisting the Buccaneers; but seeing they were determined on landing, they quitted the place; on which Dampier honestly remarks, 'One chief reason why the Spaniards are so frequently routed by us, though much our superiors in number, is, their want of fire-arms; for they have but few unless near their large garrisons.'

[Sidenote: Snook, a Fish.] A large quant.i.ty of salt intended for salting the fish caught in the lagune, was taken here. Dampier says, 'The fish in these lagunes were of a kind called Snooks, which are neither sea-fish nor fresh-water fish; it is about a foot long, round, and as thick as the small of a man's leg, has a pretty long head, whitish scales, and is good meat.'

[Sidenote: November 7th. High Land of Acapulco.] A Mulatto whom they took prisoner told them that a s.h.i.+p of twenty guns had lately arrived at _Acapulco_ from _Lima_. Townley and his crew had long been dissatisfied with their s.h.i.+p; and in hopes of getting a better, they stood towards the harbour of _Acapulco_. On the 7th, they made the high land over _Acapulco_, 'which is remarkable by a round hill standing between two other hills, both higher, the Westernmost of which is the biggest and the highest, and has two hillocks like two paps at the top.' Dampier gives the lat.i.tude of _Acapulco_ 17 N[67].

This was not near the usual time either of the departure or of the arrival of the Manila s.h.i.+ps, and except at those times, _Acapulco_ is almost deserted on account of the situation being unhealthy. _Acapulco_ is described hot, unwholesome, pestered with gnats, and having nothing good but the harbour. Merchants depart from it as soon as they have transacted their business. Townley accordingly expected to bring off the _Lima_ s.h.i.+p quietly, and with little trouble. In the evening of the 7th, the s.h.i.+ps being then so far from land that they could not be descried, Townley with 140 men departed in twelve canoes for the harbour of _Acapulco_. They did not reach _Port Marques_ till the second night; and on the third night they rowed softly and unperceived by the Spaniards into _Acapulco Harbour_. They found the _Lima_ s.h.i.+p moored close to the castle, and, after reconnoitring, thought it would not be in their power to bring her off; so they paddled back quietly out of the harbour, and returned to their s.h.i.+ps, tired and disappointed.

[Sidenote: Sandy Beach, West of Acapulco. Hill of Petaplan.] Westward from the Port of _Acapulco_, they pa.s.sed a sandy bay or beach above twenty leagues in length, the sea all the way beating with such force on the sh.o.r.e that a boat could not approach with safety. 'There was clean anchoring ground at a mile or two from the sh.o.r.e. At the West end of this Bay, in 17 30' N, is the Hill of _Petaplan_, which is a round point stretching out into the sea, and at a distance seems an Island[68].' This was reckoned twenty-five leagues from _Acapulco_. A little to the West of the hill are several round white rocks. They sailed within the rocks, having 11 fathoms depth, and anch.o.r.ed on the NW side of the hill. Their Mosquito men took here some small turtle and small jew-fish.

They landed, and at an Indian village took a Mulatto woman and her children, whom they carried on board. They learnt from her that a caravan drawn by mules was going with flour and other goods to _Acapulco_, but that the carrier had stopped on the road from apprehension of the Buccaneers.

[Sidenote: Chequetan.] The s.h.i.+ps weighed their anchors, and ran about two leagues farther Westward, to a place called _Chequetan_, which Dampier thus describes: 'A mile and a half from the sh.o.r.e is a small Key (or Island) and within it is a very good harbour, where s.h.i.+ps may careen: here is also a small river of fresh water, and wood enough.'

[Sidenote: 14th. Estapa.] On the 14th, in the morning, about a hundred Buccaneers set off in search of the carrier, taking the woman prisoner for a guide. They landed a league to the West of _Chequetan_, at a place called _Estapa_, and their conductress led them through a wood, by the side of a river, about a league, which brought them to a savannah full of cattle; and here at a farm-house the carrier and his mules were lodged. He had 40 packs of flour, some chocolate, small cheeses, and earthenware. The eatables, with the addition of eighteen beeves which they killed, the Buccaneers laid on the backs of above fifty mules which were at hand, and drove them to their boats. A present of clothes was made to the woman, and she, with two of her children, were set at liberty; but the other child, a boy seven or eight years old, Swan kept, against the earnest intreaties of the mother. Dampier says, 'Captain Swan promised her to make much of him, and was as good as his word. He proved afterwards a fine boy for wit, courage, and dexterity.'

[Sidenote: 21st. Hill of Thelupan.] They proceeded Westward along the coast, which was high land full of ragged hills, but with pleasant and fruitful vallies between. The 25th, they were abreast a hill, 'which towered above his fellows, and was divided in the top, making two small parts. It is in lat.i.tude 18 8' N. The Spaniards mention a town called _Thelupan_ near this hill.'

The 26th, the Captains Swan and Townley went in the canoes with 200 men, to seek the city of _Colima_, which was reported to be a rich place: but their search was fruitless. They rowed 20 leagues along sh.o.r.e, and found no good place for landing; neither did they see house or inhabitant, although they pa.s.sed by a fine valley, called the _Valley of Maguella_, except that towards the end of their expedition, they saw a horseman, who they supposed had been stationed as a sentinel, for he rode off immediately on their appearance. They landed with difficulty, and followed the track of the horse on the sand, but lost it in the woods.

[Sidenote: 28th. Volcano of Colima. Valley of Colima.] On the 28th, they saw the Volcano of _Colima_, which is in about 18 36' N lat.i.tude, five or six leagues from the sea, and appears with two sharp points, from each of which issued flames or smoke. The _Valley of Colima_ is ten or twelve leagues wide by the sea: it abounds in cacao-gardens, fields of corn, and plantain walks. The coast is a sandy sh.o.r.e, on which the waves beat with violence. Eastward of the Valley the land is woody. A river ran here into the sea, with a shoal or bar at its entrance, which boats could not pa.s.s.

On the West side of the river was savannah land.

[Sidenote: December. Salagua.] December the 1st, they were near the Port of _Salagua_, which Dampier reckoned in lat.i.tude 18 52' N. He says, 'it is only a pretty deep bay, divided in the middle with a rocky point, which makes, as it were, two harbours[69]. s.h.i.+ps may ride secure in either, but the West harbour is the best: the depth of water is 10 or 12 fathom, and a brook of fresh water runs into the sea there.'

[Sidenote: Report of a great City named Oarrah.] Two hundred Buccaneers landed at _Salagua_, and finding a broad road which led inland, they followed it about four leagues, over a dry stony country, much overgrown with short wood, without seeing habitation or inhabitant; but in their return, they met and took prisoners two Mulattoes, who informed them that the road they had been travelling led to a great city called _Oarrah_, which was distant as far as a horse will travel in four days; and that there was no place of consequence nearer. The same prisoner said the _Manila_ s.h.i.+p was daily expected to stop at this part of the coast to land pa.s.sengers; for that the arrival of the s.h.i.+ps at _Acapulco_ from the _Philippines_ commonly happened about Christmas, and scarcely ever more than eight or ten days before or after.

Swan and Townley sailed on for Cape _Corrientes_. Many among the crews were at this time taken ill with a fever and ague, which left the patients dropsical. Dampier says, the dropsy is a disease very common on this coast. He was one of the sufferers, and continued ill a long time; and several died of it.

[Sidenote: The Land near Cape Corrientes. Coronada Hills. Cape Corrientes.] The coast Southward of _Cape Corrientes_, is of moderate height, and full of white cliffs. The inland country is high and barren, with sharp peaked hills. Northward of this rugged land, is a chain of mountains which terminates Eastward with a high steep mountain, which has three sharp peaks and resembles a crown; and is therefore called by the Spaniards _Coronada_. On the 11th they came in sight of _Cape Corrientes_.

When the _Cape_ bore NbW, the _Coronada_ mountain bore ENE[70].

On arriving off _Cape Corrientes_, the buccaneer vessels spread, for the advantage of enlarging their lookout, the Cygnet taking the outer station at about ten leagues distance from the _Cape_. Provisions however soon became scarce, on which account Townley's tender and some of the canoes were sent to the land to seek a supply. The canoes rowed up along sh.o.r.e against a Northerly wind to the _Bay de Vanderas_; but the bark could not get round _Cape Corrientes_. [Sidenote: 18th.] On the 18th, Townley complained he wanted fresh water, whereupon the s.h.i.+ps quitted their station near the Cape, and sailed to some small Islands called the _Keys of Chametly_, which are situated to the SE of _Cape Corrientes_, to take in fresh water.

The descriptions of the coast of _New Spain_ given by Dampier, in his account of his voyage with the Buccaneers, contain many particulars of importance which are not to be found in any other publication. Dampier's ma.n.u.script and the printed Narrative frequently differ, and it is sometimes apparent that the difference is not the effect of inadvertence, or mistake in the press, but that it was intended as a correction from a reconsideration of the subject. [Sidenote: Keys or Islands of Chametly.]

The printed Narrative says at this part, 'These _Keys_ or _Islands_ of _Chametly_ are about 16 or 18 leagues to the Eastward of _Cape Corrientes_. They are small, low, woody, and environed with rocks. There are five of them lying in the form of a half moon, not a mile from the sh.o.r.e of the main, and between them and the main land is very good riding secure from any wind[71].' In the ma.n.u.script it is said, 'the Islands _Chametly_ make a secure port. They lie eight or nine leagues from _Port Navidad_.'

It is necessary to explain that Dampier, in describing his navigation along the coast of _New Spain_, uses the terms Eastward and Westward, not according to the precise meaning of the words, but to signify being more or less advanced along the coast from the _Bay of Panama_. By Westward, he invariably means more advanced towards the _Gulf of California_; by Eastward, the contrary.

[Sidenote: Form a convenient Port.] The s.h.i.+ps entered within the _Chametly Islands_ by the channel at the SE end, and anch.o.r.ed in five fathoms depth, on a bottom of clean sand. They found there good fresh water and wood, and caught plenty of rock-fish with hook and line. No inhabitants were seen, but there were huts, made for the temporary convenience of fishermen who occasionally went there to fish for the inhabitants of the city of _La Purificacion_. These Islands, forming a commodious port affording fresh water and other conveniencies, from the smallness of their size are not made visible in the Spanish charts of the coast of _New Spain_ in present use[72]. Whilst the s.h.i.+ps watered at the _Keys_ or _Isles of Chametly_, a party was sent to forage on the main land, whence they carried off about 40 bushels of maize.

On the 22d, they left the _Keys of Chametly_, and returned to their cruising station off _Cape Corrientes_, where they were rejoined by the canoes which had been to the _Bay de Vanderas_. Thirty-seven men had landed there from the canoes, who went three miles into the country, where they encountered a body of Spaniards, consisting both of horse and foot.

The Buccaneers took benefit of a small wood for shelter against the attack of the horse, yet the Spaniards rode in among them; but the Spanish Captain and some of their foremost men being killed, the rest retreated.

Four of the Buccaneers were killed, and two desperately wounded. The Spanish infantry were more numerous than the horse, but they did not join in the attack, because they were armed only with lances and swords; 'nevertheless,' says Dampier, 'if they had come in, they would certainly have destroyed all our men.' The Buccaneers conveyed their two wounded men to the water side on horses, one of which, when they arrived at their canoes, they killed and drest; not daring to venture into the savannah for a bullock, though they saw many grazing.

[Sidenote: 1686. January. Bay de Vanderas.] Swan and Townley preserved their station off _Cape Corrientes_ only till the 1st of January, 1686, when their crews became impatient for fresh meat, and they stood into the _Bay de Vanderas_, to hunt for beef. The depth of water in this Bay is very great, and the s.h.i.+ps were obliged to anchor in 60 fathoms.

[Sidenote: Valley of Vanderas.] 'The _Valley of Vanderas_ is about three leagues wide, with a sandy bay against the sea, and smooth landing. In the midst of this bay (or beach) is a fine river, into which boats may enter; but it is brackish at the latter part of the dry season, which is in March, and part of April. The Valley is enriched with fruitful savannahs, mixed with groves of trees fit for any use; and fruit-trees grow wild in such plenty as if nature designed this place only for a garden. The savannahs are full of fat bulls and cows, and horses; but no house was in sight.'

Here they remained hunting beeves, till the 7th of the month. Two hundred and forty men landed every day, sixty of whom were stationed as a guard, whilst the rest pursued the cattle; the Spaniards all the time appearing in large companies on the nearest hills. The Buccaneers killed and salted meat sufficient to serve them two months, which expended all their salt.

Whilst they were thus occupied in the pleasant valley of _Vanderas_, the galeon from _Manila_ sailed past _Cape Corrientes_, and pursued her course in safety to _Acapulco_. This they learnt afterwards from prisoners; but it was by no means unexpected: on the contrary, they were in general so fully persuaded it would be the consequence of their going into the _Bay de Vanderas_, that they gave up all intention of cruising for her afterwards.

[Sidenote: Swan and Townley part company.] The main object for which Townley had gone thus far Northward being disposed of, he and his crew resolved to return Southward. Some Darien Indians had remained to this time with Swan: they were now committed to the care of Townley, and the two s.h.i.+ps broke off consorts.h.i.+p, and parted company.

CHAP. XIX.

_The =Cygnet= and her Crew on the Coast of =Nueva Galicia=, and at the =Tres Marias Islands=._

[Sidenote: 1686. January. Coast of Nuevo Galicia.] Swan and his crew determined before they quitted the American coast, to visit some Spanish towns farther North, in the neighbourhood of rich mines, where they hoped to find good plunder, and to increase their stock of provisions for the pa.s.sage across the _Pacific_ to _India_.

[Sidenote: Point Ponteque.] January the 7th, the Cygnet and her tender sailed from the _Valley of Vanderas_, and before night, pa.s.sed _Point Ponteque_, the Northern point of the _Vanderas Bay_. _Point Ponteque_ is high, round, rocky, and barren: at a distance it makes like an Island.

Dampier reckoned it 10 leagues distant, in a direction N 20 W, from _Cape Corrientes_; the variation of the compa.s.s observed near the _Cape_ being 4 28' Easterly[73].

A league West from _Point Ponteque_ are two small barren Islands, round which lie scattered several high, sharp, white rocks. The Cygnet pa.s.sed on the East side of the two Islands, the channel between them and _Point Ponteque_ appearing clear of danger. 'The sea-coast beyond _Point Ponteque_ runs in NE, all ragged land, and afterwards out again NNW, making many ragged points, with small sandy bays between. The land by the sea is low and woody; but the inland country is full of high, sharp, rugged, and barren hills.'

Along this coast they had light sea and land breezes, and fair weather.

They anch.o.r.ed every evening, and got under sail in the morning with the land-wind. [Sidenote: January 14th. White Rock, 21 51' N.] On the 14th, they had sight of a small white rock, which had resemblance to a s.h.i.+p under sail. Dampier gives its lat.i.tude 21 51' N, and its distance from _Cape Corrientes_ 34 leagues. It is three leagues from the main, with depth in the channel, near the Island, twelve or fourteen fathoms.

[Sidenote: 15th. 16th.] The 15th, at noon, the lat.i.tude was 22 11' N. The coast here lay in a NNW direction. The 16th, they steered 'NNW as the land runs.' At noon the lat.i.tude was 22 41' N. The coast was sandy and shelving, with soundings at six fathoms depth a league distant. The sea set heavy on the sh.o.r.e. They caught here many cat-fish.

[Sidenote: 20th. Chametlan Isles, 23 11' N.] On the 20th, they anch.o.r.ed a league to the East of a small groupe of Isles, named the _Chametlan Isles_, after the name of the District or Captains.h.i.+p (_Alcaldia mayor_) in the province of _Culiacan_, opposite to which they are situated.