The Bread Lover's Bread Machine Cookbook Part 18

[image]Place the water and yeast in the bread pan. Add the flour. Program your machine for the Dough cycle and press Start. Immediately set a timer for 10 minutes. When the timer rings, press Stop and unplug the machine. You will have a stiff dough ball that will loosen and become moist as it sits. Let the starter sit in the machine for about 6 hours. The dough will rise and fill the pan, becoming moist, and smelling yeasty.

[image]Prepare a lidded plastic container (I use a short 1-quart container) to store the biga biga by spraying the inside bottom and sides of it with vegetable oil cooking spray. The plastic container should be large enough to hold at least three times the amount of by spraying the inside bottom and sides of it with vegetable oil cooking spray. The plastic container should be large enough to hold at least three times the amount of biga biga you have. (This will accommodate the you have. (This will accommodate the biga biga as it rises inside the refrigerator.) Sc.r.a.pe the as it rises inside the refrigerator.) Sc.r.a.pe the biga biga out of the bread pan and into the container using a spatula or dough card; the dough will be very sticky. I find it helpful to label the out of the bread pan and into the container using a spatula or dough card; the dough will be very sticky. I find it helpful to label the biga biga with the date and time it was made before refrigerating it. Store the with the date and time it was made before refrigerating it. Store the biga biga in the refrigerator, where it will continue fermenting. It will be ready to use in 18 to 24 hours. You will need to deflate the in the refrigerator, where it will continue fermenting. It will be ready to use in 18 to 24 hours. You will need to deflate the biga biga by stirring it with your finger or the tip of a knife after about 12 hours, 24 hours, and 48 hours (since it is a live culture, it slowly rises while chilled). Store in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks. by stirring it with your finger or the tip of a knife after about 12 hours, 24 hours, and 48 hours (since it is a live culture, it slowly rises while chilled). Store in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.

You can also freeze the biga biga. Since it would be difficult to measure portions from a frozen batch of starter, portion the starter before freezing. For details on measuring, see step 3. Store each half cup of biga biga in a separate freezer-quality self-sealing plastic bag. The in a separate freezer-quality self-sealing plastic bag. The biga biga may be frozen for up to 1 month. Then defrost it in the fridge overnight before using. may be frozen for up to 1 month. Then defrost it in the fridge overnight before using.

[image]To use the biga biga, rinse out a measuring cup with cold water. Leave the measuring cup wet. Use a small knife or large spoon to cut away a section of the refrigerated biga biga and pack it into the measuring cup until it is full. Bring the and pack it into the measuring cup until it is full. Bring the biga biga to room temperature before making the bread dough, or warm it in the microwave for 10 seconds. I measure it out, then just leave it on the counter covered with some plastic wrap for an hour or so until I am ready to load the machine. It is okay that the to room temperature before making the bread dough, or warm it in the microwave for 10 seconds. I measure it out, then just leave it on the counter covered with some plastic wrap for an hour or so until I am ready to load the machine. It is okay that the biga biga rises as it warms; just dump it into the pan, whatever its volume, along with the water. rises as it warms; just dump it into the pan, whatever its volume, along with the water.

Mastering the Biga BigaI had traveled many times to the first Il Fornaio store on Union Street in San Francisco-a California-based franchise bakery chain modeled on one of the same name in Italy. The first bread I made styled after one of theirs was a chocolate bread. In 1982, I was offered a position at the fledgling Il Fornaio company for which I would have trained at their baking academy, but I took another job, opting to work in Alaska sourdough country instead. I started working with bigas bigas in the late 1980s. Although I had been baking for years, the manipulation and use of the in the late 1980s. Although I had been baking for years, the manipulation and use of the biga biga were new to me, and my first attempts were less than enthusiastic. On the advice of Carol Field, the food writer who first brought the were new to me, and my first attempts were less than enthusiastic. On the advice of Carol Field, the food writer who first brought the biga biga to American sh.o.r.es, I kept at it and let the unfamiliar technique evolve into my repertoire. to American sh.o.r.es, I kept at it and let the unfamiliar technique evolve into my repertoire.I met chef and baker Franco Galli, formerly of Il Fornaio America, at a book party celebrating the publication of The Il Fornaio Baking Book The Il Fornaio Baking Book (Chronicle Books, 1993), which he auth.o.r.ed. Up to that time, the crusty, rustic Italian breads made by the Il Fornaio Bakery were a bit out of reach of the home baker. Of course the secret to their wonderful breads was the starter and they detailed it and much more in this informative book. (Chronicle Books, 1993), which he auth.o.r.ed. Up to that time, the crusty, rustic Italian breads made by the Il Fornaio Bakery were a bit out of reach of the home baker. Of course the secret to their wonderful breads was the starter and they detailed it and much more in this informative book.The recipes in this section are styled after and inspired by ones created by master baker Franco Galli. I guarantee that you, too, will be a great baker when you master them.

PAGNOTTA Makes 1 large loaf Pagnotta translates simply to "round loaf." It is a floury country bread I adore. It has a very crisp k.n.o.bby crust and moist, dense interior that reminds me (even though this is not a sourdough bread) of my favorite bread made by Boudin-at this writing the last big commercial sourdough bakery in San Francisco's North Beach-which bakes in the Italian tradition. The rustic shape turns out a bit different with every baking. The aroma of this bread is very grain-rich, so the flour you use is of utmost importance. You can also use this dough to make a dozen translates simply to "round loaf." It is a floury country bread I adore. It has a very crisp k.n.o.bby crust and moist, dense interior that reminds me (even though this is not a sourdough bread) of my favorite bread made by Boudin-at this writing the last big commercial sourdough bakery in San Francisco's North Beach-which bakes in the Italian tradition. The rustic shape turns out a bit different with every baking. The aroma of this bread is very grain-rich, so the flour you use is of utmost importance. You can also use this dough to make a dozen pagnottine, pagnottine, square rolls, for guests. See square rolls, for guests. See Technique: How to Shape and Bake Italian Dinner Rolls Technique: How to Shape and Bake Italian Dinner Rolls.

11/2- OR 2-POUND-LOAF MACHINES12/3 cups warm water cups warm water1/2 cup cup Two-Week Biga Two-Week Biga3/4 teaspoon SAF yeast or 1 teaspoon SAF yeast or 11/4 teasoons bread machine yeast teasoons bread machine yeast33/4 cups bread flour cups bread flour11/2 teaspoons salt teaspoons salt

[image]Place all the ingredients in the pan, according to the order in the manufacturer's instructions, adding the starter and yeast with the water. Program for the Dough cycle; press Start. The dough will be s.h.i.+ny, very moist to the point of being slightly sticky, and soft. Don't be tempted to add more flour. When the machine beeps at the end of the cycle, press Stop and unplug the machine. Gently deflate the dough with your finger. Set a kitchen timer and let the dough rest for another hour in the warm environment of the machine.

[image]Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface. Using your dough card, fold the edges over into the center. You can add another tablespoon or two of flour as you work, just to have the dough hold its shape, but it will still be soft. Working around the loaf in a circular motion, each fold will lay on top of each other, making a tight round with an uneven surface that would normally be on the bottom of the loaf. The smooth side will be touching the work surface. Spread a thick layer of flour on the work surface and turn the loaf over so that the smooth side will face up. Cover with a clean tea towel and let rise at room temperature for about 45 minutes.

[image]Twenty minutes before baking, place a baking stone on the lowest rack of the oven, if desired. Place a clean baking sheet in the oven to heat it up, and preheat the oven to 425F.

[image]Carefully remove the hot baking sheet from the oven and place on a rack or on top of the stove. Sprinkle with flour. Using a flat surface such as the underside of a saute pan lid and your dough card, gently slide the loaf off the work surface and turn it over onto the lid so that the bottom is now on top. This is easier than it sounds. Slide the loaf onto the hot baking sheet; it will appear to deflate slightly. This is okay. The rough side of the loaf will be facing up. Immediately place in the oven.

[image]Bake for 10 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 400F and bake for an additional 30 to 35 minutes, or until the crust is deep brown, very crisp, and the loaf sounds hollow when tapped with your finger. I insert an instant-read thermometer into a soft crease on the side; it should read about 200F. Remove the bread from the oven and place on a rack. Let cool completely before slicing.

[image]Technique: How to Shape and Bake Italian Dinner RollsMakes 1 dozen little rolls

I love the way these rolls are shaped, into little squares.1 recipe Pagnotta Pagnotta dough dough[image] Brush a small 5- to 7-inch square or rectangular dish with olive oil. Turn the dough out into the dish. Press the dough into an even layer with your fingertips. Cover with a clean tea towel and let rest at room temperature for 1 Brush a small 5- to 7-inch square or rectangular dish with olive oil. Turn the dough out into the dish. Press the dough into an even layer with your fingertips. Cover with a clean tea towel and let rest at room temperature for 11/2 hours. hours.[image] Invert the dish to turn the dough out onto a heavily floured work surface. With a knife, pastry wheel, or metal bench knife, divide the dough into 2 equal pieces. With your fingers, deflate until flat, and begin rolling up a rectangle of dough by folding it over in Invert the dish to turn the dough out onto a heavily floured work surface. With a knife, pastry wheel, or metal bench knife, divide the dough into 2 equal pieces. With your fingers, deflate until flat, and begin rolling up a rectangle of dough by folding it over in 1 1/2-inch increments, which will create surface tension. The dough roll will be about 13/4 inches in diameter. Press down to flatten slightly into a square log and be sure the seam side is down. The roll will be completely covered with flour. Repeat with the second piece. Cover with the clean tea towel and let rest on the work surface until doubled in bulk, about 45 minutes to 1 hour. inches in diameter. Press down to flatten slightly into a square log and be sure the seam side is down. The roll will be completely covered with flour. Repeat with the second piece. Cover with the clean tea towel and let rest on the work surface until doubled in bulk, about 45 minutes to 1 hour.[image] Twenty minutes before baking, place a baking stone on the lowest rack, if desired, and preheat the oven to 425F. Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper. Twenty minutes before baking, place a baking stone on the lowest rack, if desired, and preheat the oven to 425F. Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper.[image] With your metal bench knife or a sharp knife, cut each log into 6 equal pieces. Dust with more flour, if necessary. These look nice when made really floury. You will have a little square with an expanding open area, called "the wound," at the cut edge. This is desirable. Transfer the rolls to the baking sheet placing them about 1 inch apart. With your metal bench knife or a sharp knife, cut each log into 6 equal pieces. Dust with more flour, if necessary. These look nice when made really floury. You will have a little square with an expanding open area, called "the wound," at the cut edge. This is desirable. Transfer the rolls to the baking sheet placing them about 1 inch apart.[image] Bake until golden brown and crusty, 22 to 28 minutes. The rolls will expand and puff up considerably. Cool on the sheet for 10 minutes and serve immediately, or cool completely and reheat before serving. Bake until golden brown and crusty, 22 to 28 minutes. The rolls will expand and puff up considerably. Cool on the sheet for 10 minutes and serve immediately, or cool completely and reheat before serving.

PANE BIGIOMakes 2 round loaves Bigio translates to "gray," and this loaf with a small percentage of whole wheat flour and bran does have a grayish-brown cast when baked. translates to "gray," and this loaf with a small percentage of whole wheat flour and bran does have a grayish-brown cast when baked. Pane bigio, Pane bigio, the Italian counterpart to the French the Italian counterpart to the French pain de campagne, pain de campagne, is a nice, simple country bread, best eaten fresh, within a few hours of baking. is a nice, simple country bread, best eaten fresh, within a few hours of baking.

11/2- OR 2-POUND-LOAF MACHINES11/4 cups warm water cups warm water1/2 cup cup Two-Week Biga Two-Week Biga1 teaspoon SAF yeast or 11/2 teaspoons bread machine yeast teaspoons bread machine yeast21/8 cups bread flour cups bread flour3/4 cup whole wheat or graham flour cup whole wheat or graham flour2 tablespoons bran or wheat germ1 teaspoon gluten with vitamin C added11/2 teaspoons salt teaspoons salt1/4 cup yellow cornmeal, for sprinkling cup yellow cornmeal, for sprinkling

[image]Place all the dough ingredients in the pan according to the order in the manufacturer's instructions, adding the starter and yeast with the water. Program for the Dough cycle; press Start. The dough will be smooth, slightly moist and sticky, and a bit soft. Don't add more flour. When the machine beeps at the end of the cycle, press Stop and unplug the machine. Gently deflate the dough with your finger. Set a timer for an hour and let the dough rest another hour in the machine.

[image]Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and sprinkle with cornmeal. When the timer rings, turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface. Divide the dough into 2 equal pieces, and using your dough card, gently knead each into a ball. Place the b.a.l.l.s on the baking sheet a few inches apart. Cover with a tea towel and let rise until doubled in bulk, about 45 minutes.

[image]Twenty minutes before baking, place a baking stone on the lowest rack of the oven, if desired, and preheat to 425F.

[image]Sprinkle the top of each loaf with flour and rub in. Slash a crosshatch or triangle into the tops, no more than 14 inch deep. Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, or until the crusts are deep brown, very crisp, and sound hollow when tapped with your finger. I insert an instant-read thermometer into a soft crease on the side; it should read about 200F. Remove from the oven and place the loaves on a rack. Let cool completely before slicing.

Pain de Campagne from a Vermont KitchenBrinna Sands of King Arthur Flour is an avid bread machine baker and student of traditional baking techniques, so I asked her to contribute a recipe for this book. She sent me a three-page recipe for a European-style country bread in prose form. It was so evocative of the stream of consciousness of a philosophical baker, that I decided to include it for you just as she sent it. Brinna measures her ingredients in a very different manner than the rest of the recipes in this book, so I have included regular measurements should you find hers daunting.Brinna Sands's Pain de Campagne I'm hoping that if I commit this recipe to print, as it stands now, that I will stop obsessing about it and be able to move on. What I'm really afraid of is that, even then, I may not want to move on because this bread has become, for better or worse, our current daily bread. The struggle I'm having is that it flies in the face of all the whole grains, levains levains, and starters I've been committed to over the years. It is, after all, a primarily white, yeast-leavened, bread-machine kneaded loaf that is the ant.i.thesis of all things I used to hold important. But I love it. Everyone loves it. It's terrific right out of the oven, a half an hour out of the oven, the next day, the day after that, and finally as toast, bread pudding, strata strata, croutons, crumbs. ... What makes it so compelling? Try it and see. I'm not sure I have the answer.The Day Before BakingThe Biga BigaPerhaps the fact that this is made with a biga biga somewhat mitigates my guilt about making it. A somewhat mitigates my guilt about making it. A biga biga is an Italian name for a kind of pre-fermented dough. I'm calling it a is an Italian name for a kind of pre-fermented dough. I'm calling it a biga biga because a because a biga biga can be almost any form of pre-ferment, from a sponge (two parts water to one part flour by weight) to a dough (1 part water to 1 can be almost any form of pre-ferment, from a sponge (two parts water to one part flour by weight) to a dough (1 part water to 11/4 to 112 parts flour by weight). The French have more precise names for these things, names that are harder to remember and say than to 112 parts flour by weight). The French have more precise names for these things, names that are harder to remember and say than biga biga. And "biga" seems to be a good name for a creature that has taken up habitation in your kitchen or refrigerator and keeps reappearing. Besides, this loaf is more Italian than French in heritage.A pre-ferment is what a baker uses to speed up the time between mixing a dough and pulling finished loaves out of the oven, without sacrificing texture and flavor. By making up a sponge or dough with a touch of yeast, and letting it work for anywhere from 2 to 48 hours, you can add it to a newly made dough that will inherit the flavors it has had time to develop.So in making a bread with a biga biga, you add one more step. But it's only remembering to make the biga biga that can be called "work" because it's a cinch to make. Place your bread machine bucket on a scale and measure into it: that can be called "work" because it's a cinch to make. Place your bread machine bucket on a scale and measure into it:6 ounces (3/4 cup) water cup) water1 ounce (3 tablespoons) pumpernickel or whole rye meal7 to 8 ounces (approximately 11/2 cups) unbleached all-purpose or bread flour cups) unbleached all-purpose or bread flour1/4 teaspoon instant yeast (SAF yeast or teaspoon instant yeast (SAF yeast or 1 1/2 teaspoon bread machine yeast, not rapid-rise) teaspoon bread machine yeast, not rapid-rise)Put the bread pan in the machine, start the Dough cycle, and allow to mix just long enough to thoroughly blend all the ingredients, 5 to 6 minutes. Then hit Reset and go away. You can leave this biga biga right in the machine until you're ready for the next step, or you can take the bucket out of the machine, cover it with plastic wrap, and let it sit. If you aren't going to get to it after 12 hours or so, put it, covered, into the fridge. It will keep very nicely there for a couple more days. right in the machine until you're ready for the next step, or you can take the bucket out of the machine, cover it with plastic wrap, and let it sit. If you aren't going to get to it after 12 hours or so, put it, covered, into the fridge. It will keep very nicely there for a couple more days.The Day of BakingThe DoughThe dough for this bread is quite wet, one that a bread machine does really well developing. The final bread will be light, with good-sized holes in it, and chewy with an a.s.sertive crust.Take your bread machine pan, uncover it if it's covered, and put it back on your scale. Add:12 ounces (11/2 cups) water cups) water11/5 ounces ( ounces (1/4 cup) pumpernickel or whole rye meal cup) pumpernickel or whole rye meal15 to 16 ounces (approximately 31/4 to 3 to 31/2 cups) unbleached all-purpose or bread flour cups) unbleached all-purpose or bread flourScant tablespoon salt11/2 teaspoons instant yeast (SAF yeast or 2 teaspoons bread machine yeast, not rapid-rise) teaspoons instant yeast (SAF yeast or 2 teaspoons bread machine yeast, not rapid-rise)Put the pan back into the machine and set it on the Dough cycle. After it's had a chance to mix, get in there with a rubber spatula and sc.r.a.pe any residue off the sides of the machine and incorporate it into the dough. After the machine has finished its cycle, let the dough continue to rise until it has just crowned over the top of the pan.Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured board, and, with the help of a bench knife or bowl sc.r.a.per, fold the edges of the dough into the center, gently pressing out the acc.u.mulated gases. Turn it over and shape it into a round loaf, tucking the edges into the middle of the bottom until it's neat and tidy and well shaped.Rising and BakingIf you have a baking stone in your oven, you can bake your loaf right on the stone. To do this, place the shaped loaf on a piece of flour-dusted parchment, cover and let rise until it's well developed, an hour or more. Twenty minutes to a half hour before you want to bake your bread, preheat your oven to 450F. Just before the bread goes into the oven, slash the top in whatever artful way you wish. This allows the loaf to continue to expand in the oven without shredding and gives it your signature appearance. If you don't have a stone, place your shaped loaf on a baking sheet or a dark pizza pan that's at least 1 1/2 inches in diameter. inches in diameter.You'll develop a much better crust if you can add steam to the oven for the first few minutes the bread is baking. This can be done either by spraying the loaf fairly copiously with water before it goes in, or by placing a metal pan under the baking stone or rack you want to bake the bread on, allowing it to preheat with the oven. Pour a half to 1 cup of very hot water in the pan just before you slide in your loaf. Be very careful. Steam can burn. Good oven mitts are very useful here.Bake the bread for about 45 minutes. Keep an eye on your loaf. If it seems to be browning too much, turn the heat down and continue baking at 400F. Remove from the oven and place on a cooling rack. In a minute or so the loaf will begin to speak. Cool pretty thoroughly before you cut into it so the interior structure has a chance to set.EatingThe easiest way to get at this loaf is to cut it in half, stand a half on edge and cut slices starting at one end. Store the other half on edge to prevent it from drying out. Eat it with whatever excuse you need (because it's there; to eat with b.u.t.ter, jam, soup, or tea; or best of all, the presence of a friend with whom the bread just needs to be broken).AfterthoughtsPerhaps it's because the gestation of this loaf is so long, or because the loaf is so fulsome and round, or because it speaks when it is done. Maybe it's because the bread machine makes it so easy to create. Or maybe it's just because it's the perfect vehicle for so many of the things that make life a good place to be. Whatever the reason, it's at this point that I go back to the beginning and start another biga biga.

ITALIAN SEMOLINA BREADMakes 1 round loaf This is such a wonderful bread, but the only way you will know that is to bake it immediately. The crust is crisp and crackly; the interior is moist and close textured. It is perfect. The aroma drives me wild; it smells like a field of fresh grain. This is what country bread was meant to be-a plain bread with gigantic character. So eat it with dinner, with meat and cheese, or just dip it in olive oil and enjoy.

11/2- OR 2-POUND-LOAF MACHINES1 cup warm water1/4 cup cup Two-Week Biga Two-Week Biga1 teaspoon SAF yeast or 11/2 teaspoons bread machine yeast teaspoons bread machine yeast2 tablespoons olive oil11/2 cups bread flour cups bread flour1 cup semolina flour1 teaspoon gluten with vitamin C added11/4 teaspoons salt teaspoons salt1/4 cup farina, for sprinkling cup farina, for sprinkling

[image]Place all the dough ingredients in the pan according to the order in the manufacturer's instructions, adding the starter and yeast with the water. Program for the Dough cycle; press Start. The dough will be smooth, slightly moist and sticky, and a bit soft. Don't be tempted to add more flour. When the machine beeps at the end of the cycle, press Stop and unplug the machine. Gently deflate the dough with your finger. Set a kitchen timer and let the dough rest another hour in the warm environment of the machine.

[image]Turn the dough out onto a floured work surface. Using your dough card, gently knead into a ball. Cover with a clean tea towel and let rise at room temperature until doubled in bulk, about 45 minutes.

[image]Knead the risen dough ball once more into a tight round, pressing the air out of it. Sprinkle the work surface with flour and place the loaf on it, seam side down. Cover with the towel and let rise again, for 40 minutes.

[image]Twenty minutes before baking, place a baking stone on the lowest rack of the oven, if desired, and preheat to 425F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and sprinkle with the farina.

[image]Slide the loaf off the work surface with your dough card and transfer to the baking sheet. With a small sharp knife, make 5 slashes in a radiating pattern, like the rising sun or the fingers of your outstretched hand, into the top, no more than 14 inch deep. The pattern will cover the entire top surface.

[image]Bake for 35 to 40 minutes, or until the crust is dark brown, very crisp, and sounds hollow when tapped with your finger. The loaf will look done earlier, as the crust browns quickly, but needs the full time to bake the interior. Remove from the oven and place the loaf on a rack. Let cool completely before slicing.

PANE DI CEREALEMakes 1 round loaf The health craze has. .h.i.t all developed countries, as this bread containing lots of healthy cracked grains shows. Use any hearty cracked grain cereal. They come in six-grain, seven-grain, nine-grain, and twelve-grain varieties. There's also hot apple granola that contains cracked wheat, rye, barley, and oats. You can use whatever type you wish, but take note that these raw cracked-grain cereals are different than regular boxed cereals or instant hot breakfast cereals, so you may have to seek them out. This makes a soft whole-grain bread, very different from its crusty cousins in the rest of this chapter, but very tasty.

11/2- OR 2-POUND-LOAF MACHINES1/2 cup raw cracked grain cereal cup raw cracked grain cereal11/2 cups water cups water1/4 cup cup Two-Week Biga Two-Week Biga3/4 teaspoon SAF yeast or 1 teaspoon SAF yeast or 11/4 teaspoons bread machine yeast teaspoons bread machine yeast2 tablespoons olive oil1 tablespoon honey11/2 cups whole wheat or graham flour cups whole wheat or graham flour11/2 cups bread flour cups bread flour1 teaspoon gluten with vitamin C11/2 teaspoons salt teaspoons salt2 tablespoons yellow cornmeal, for sprinkling

[image]Place the cereal and 1 cup of the water in a bowl. Let stand at room temperature for 1 hour.

[image]Place all the dough ingredients in the pan, adding the starter and yeast with the remaining 1 1/2 cup water and the soaked grains. Program for the Dough cycle; press Start. The dough will initially look very wet. The grains will absorb the extra moisture during the kneading. When the machine beeps at the end of the cycle, press Stop and unplug the machine. Gently deflate the dough with your finger. Set a timer and let the dough rest for another hour in the warm environment of the machine. cup water and the soaked grains. Program for the Dough cycle; press Start. The dough will initially look very wet. The grains will absorb the extra moisture during the kneading. When the machine beeps at the end of the cycle, press Stop and unplug the machine. Gently deflate the dough with your finger. Set a timer and let the dough rest for another hour in the warm environment of the machine.

[image]Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface. Using your dough card, fold the edges over into the center. Knead into a tight round. Spread a thick layer of flour on the work surface and turn the loaf over so that the bottom side will face down and the bottom face up. Cover with a clean tea towel and let rise at room temperature, about 45 minutes.

[image]Twenty minutes before baking, place a baking stone on the lowest rack of the oven, if desired, and preheat to 400F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and sprinkle with cornmeal.

[image]Using your dough card, gently slide the loaf off the work surface and turn it over onto the baking sheet; it will appear to deflate slightly. Immediately place in the oven.

[image]Bake for 35 to 40 minutes, or until the crust is deep brown and the bread sounds hollow when tapped with your finger. Remove from the oven and place on a rack. Let cool completely before slicing.

PANE ALL' UVAMakes 2 loaves My dear friend Qui Grenier loves Italian raisin bread. A visit with her usually includes tea and toast, usually raisin toast with b.u.t.ter. Let me just say that when you are hungry, and the bread and conversation are this good, it's easy enough for two people to toast their way through an entire loaf. Be prepared: Italian raisin bread has no sugar, and you may be surprised at how different this bread tastes from American raisin bread. The loaves are low and sort of flat, but they slice nicely. Slice and freeze any bread leftover after one day, as the loaf begins to dry out when day-old.

11/2- OR 2-POUND-LOAF MACHINES2 cups (10 ounces) dark or golden raisins11/2 cups warm water cups warm water1/4 cup cup Two-Week Biga Two-Week Biga2 teaspoons SAF yeast or 21/2 teaspoons bread machine yeast teaspoons bread machine yeast2 tablespoons olive oil4 cups bread flour11/4 teaspoons salt teaspoons saltCornmeal, for sprinkling

[image]Place the raisins in a bowl and cover with hot water. Let them stand for 11/2 hours, or while your bread machine completes the Dough cycle as instructed in Step 2. hours, or while your bread machine completes the Dough cycle as instructed in Step 2.

[image]Place all the dough ingredients, except the raisins, in the bread pan, ac cording to the order in the manufacturer's instructions, adding the starter and yeast with the water. Program for the Dough cycle; press Start. The dough will be smooth and firm. When the machine beeps at the end of the cycle, press Stop/Reset and program again for the Dough cycle. Press Start. Drain the raisins and pat as dry as possible, as any moisture will be incorporated into the dough. Gradually sprinkle in the raisins while the machine is kneading. If the dough looks too sticky after the raisins are incorporated, sprinkle another 1 to 2 tablespoons flour around the paddle while the machine is running.

[image]Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and sprinkle with cornmeal. When the machine beeps at the end of the cycle, press Stop and unplug the machine. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface. Using your dough card, gently knead into a ball and divide into 2 equal pieces. Pat each piece into an 8-inch-long rectangle and fold the long edges into the center. Form into a round, then work out into a 4-by-8-inch rectangle. Taper the ends by rolling and pressing onto the work surface. You will have a flattish, fat torpedo shape. Place the loaves on the baking sheet crosswise with a few inches between them. Cover with a clean tea towel and let rise at room temperature until doubled in bulk, about 45 minutes.

[image]Twenty minutes before baking, place a baking stone on the lowest rack of the oven, if desired, and preheat the oven to 425F.

[image]Brush the tops of the loaves with some olive oil. I just dribble some over the center and some onto the brush and quickly brush. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes, or until deep brown and firm to the touch. The crust will be soft. Transfer from the pan to a rack and immediately brush the tops once more with olive oil; it will soak right in. Let cool completely before slicing.

SAFFRON AND OLIVE OIL CHALLAHMakes 1 braided loaf The addition of olive oil to the more traditional challah ingredients makes for a beautiful egg bread, suitable for Friday evening Sabbath meals. I was surprised at how little yeast this dough requires. It does rise slowly, but don't despair. It seems to pick up speed during its last rise and in the oven, making an exceptional loaf. One slice of this ultra-tender bread will remind you that there is a good reason why challah is called the "cake of bread." The low yeast and sugar contents let the sweetness of the grain s.h.i.+ne, accented by the biga. biga. The crust is thin, dark, and rich; it shatters delectably when sliced. You can omit the saffron if you want, which was added in days of old by Jewish bakers, especially in winter, to make the pale yellow color more p.r.o.nounced. Challah keeps fresh for days. It is good for dinner on day one, sandwiches and toast thereafter. The crust is thin, dark, and rich; it shatters delectably when sliced. You can omit the saffron if you want, which was added in days of old by Jewish bakers, especially in winter, to make the pale yellow color more p.r.o.nounced. Challah keeps fresh for days. It is good for dinner on day one, sandwiches and toast thereafter.

11/2- OR 2-POUND-LOAF MACHINES2/3 cup water cup waterSmall pinch saffron threads1/3 cup cup Two-Week Biga Two-Week Biga1/2 teaspoon SAF yeast or 1 teaspoon bread machine yeast teaspoon SAF yeast or 1 teaspoon bread machine yeast2 large eggs1/4 cup olive oil cup olive oil21/2 cups bread flour cups bread flour2 tablespoons sugar11/4 teaspoons salt teaspoons salt1 egg beaten with 1 tablespoon of water, for glaze1 tablespoon poppy or sesame seeds, for sprinkling, optional

[image]Bring the water to a boil in a saucepan or microwave. Add the saffron and let it steep at room temperature for 20 to 30 minutes, until just warm.

[image]Place the saffron water and other dough ingredients in the pan according to the order in the manufacturer's instructions, adding the starter and yeast with the liquids. Program for the Dough cycle. The dough ball will be firm, yet smooth and soft. When the machine beeps at the end of the cycle, press Stop and unplug the machine. Set a kitchen timer and let the dough rest for another 30 minutes in the warm environment of the machine (no need to deflate).

[image]Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or grease a 9-by-5-inch loaf pan. When the timer rings, immediately remove the dough and place on a lightly floured work surface; divide into 3 equal portions. Using your palms, roll each portion into a fat cylinder, 1 1/2 inches in length and tapered at each end. Be sure the ropes are of equal size and shape. Place the 3 ropes parallel to each other. Begin braiding like you are braiding hair. Adjust or press the braid to make it look even. If the loaf is to be free-form, taper the ends for a long loaf, or press together to make the braid a compact square. If you are baking it in the loaf pan, tuck the ends under to make a rectangle that will fit into the pan. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let rise at room temperature until the dough is doubled in bulk, about 1 hour. inches in length and tapered at each end. Be sure the ropes are of equal size and shape. Place the 3 ropes parallel to each other. Begin braiding like you are braiding hair. Adjust or press the braid to make it look even. If the loaf is to be free-form, taper the ends for a long loaf, or press together to make the braid a compact square. If you are baking it in the loaf pan, tuck the ends under to make a rectangle that will fit into the pan. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let rise at room temperature until the dough is doubled in bulk, about 1 hour.

[image]Twenty minutes before baking, preheat the oven to 350F.

[image]Beat the egg and water glaze with a fork until foamy. Using a pastry brush, brush the top of the loaf with some of the glaze and sprinkle with the seeds, or leave plain. Bake for 40 to 45 minutes, or until the loaf is deep golden brown and the bread sounds hollow when tapped on the top and bottom with your finger. Immediately remove the loaf from the pan or sheet and transfer to a cooling rack. Let cool to room temperature before slicing.

[image]Leftover Bread Cookery: Baked Egg Dishes for Any MealVegetable FrittataMakes one 10-inch frittata, serves 8

This egg ca.s.serole is baked in a deep springformpan, unusual for a fritatta, and served in wedges like a cake. Although it takes a bit of time to a.s.semble, it can be baked a day ahead and reheated. Serve hot, room temperature, or cold, for brunch or supper. This is great party food.1/4 cup olive oil cup olive oil1 large yellow onion, chopped1/2 pound fresh mushrooms, sliced pound fresh mushrooms, sliced3 medium zucchini, sliced1/4 inch thick inch thick3 summer squash, sliced1/4 inch thick inch thick1 red bell pepper, seeded and cut into 1 1/4-inch-thick strips1 yellow bell pepper, seeded and cut into 1 1/4-inch-thick strips6 large eggs1/4 cup cream or evaporated milk cup cream or evaporated milk3 tablespoons chopped fresh basil leavesSalt and black pepper to taste1 to 2 slices day-old country bread, cut into 1 1/2-inch cubes1/2 pound cream cheese, cut into chunks pound cream cheese, cut into chunks2 cups shredded Jarlsberg or Swiss cheese[image] Preheat the oven to 350F. Grease the bottom and sides of a 10-inch springform pan. If it might leak, cover the outside bottom and up the sides with a sheet of aluminum foil or plan to place it on a baking sheet to catch the leaks. Preheat the oven to 350F. Grease the bottom and sides of a 10-inch springform pan. If it might leak, cover the outside bottom and up the sides with a sheet of aluminum foil or plan to place it on a baking sheet to catch the leaks.[image] Heat the olive oil in a large skillet. Sautethe onion, mushrooms, squash, and peppers stirring occasionally, until crisp-tender, about 15 minutes. While the vegetables are cooking, whisk together the eggs, cream, basil, and seasonings in a large bowl. Add the bread cubes and cheeses. Heat the olive oil in a large skillet. Sautethe onion, mushrooms, squash, and peppers stirring occasionally, until crisp-tender, about 15 minutes. While the vegetables are cooking, whisk together the eggs, cream, basil, and seasonings in a large bowl. Add the bread cubes and cheeses.[image] Add the sauteed vegetables to the bread mixture and stir with a large rubber spatula to incorporate. Sc.r.a.pe into the prepared pan and pack the mixture tightly. Place on the baking sheet if you are using one. Add the sauteed vegetables to the bread mixture and stir with a large rubber spatula to incorporate. Sc.r.a.pe into the prepared pan and pack the mixture tightly. Place on the baking sheet if you are using one.[image] Bake for about 1 hour, until firm to the touch, puffed, and golden brown. Serve or cool to room temperature and refrigerate. Reheat in a 350F oven until warmed through, about 15 minutes. Bake for about 1 hour, until firm to the touch, puffed, and golden brown. Serve or cool to room temperature and refrigerate. Reheat in a 350F oven until warmed through, about 15 minutes.Wine, Bread, and Cheese SouffleServes 4

This rustic ca.s.serole is a cross between a traditional souffle and a quiche. It has a crust of garlic-scented bread slices and a filling that is made with a dry white wine, like a sauvignon blanc. The type of wine you use will affect the character of the dish. This is a wonderful meal if you're in a hurry.1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter or margarine, at room temperature cup (1 stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter or margarine, at room temperature2 to 3 cloves garlic, pressed8 slices day-old homemade country bread, (no more than 3 3/4 inch thick) cut in half on the diagonal inch thick) cut in half on the diagonal1/2 cup dry white wine cup dry white wine1/2 cup milk cup milk3 large eggs1/4 teaspoon salt teaspoon salt1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper teaspoon ground black pepper1/4 teaspoon paprika teaspoon paprika1 teaspoon Dijon mustardSplash of white Worcesters.h.i.+re sauce2 cups shredded Swiss cheese, such as Jarlsbergor Emmenthaler[image] Preheat the oven to 325F. Preheat the oven to 325F.[image] Cream together the b.u.t.ter and garlic in a small bowl. Spread the bread slices on one side with the garlic b.u.t.ter. Arrange, b.u.t.ter side down, to line the sides and bottom of a 1 Cream together the b.u.t.ter and garlic in a small bowl. Spread the bread slices on one side with the garlic b.u.t.ter. Arrange, b.u.t.ter side down, to line the sides and bottom of a 11/2-quart ca.s.serole or 71/2-inch souffle dish. It does not matter if there are some uneven s.p.a.ces between the slices, but place slices as close together as possible.[image] Whisk together the wine, milk, eggs, salt, pepper, paprika, mustard, and Worcesters.h.i.+re sauce in a medium bowl until smooth, about 1 minute. Add the cheese and stir to combine. Pour into the lined ca.s.serole. Whisk together the wine, milk, eggs, salt, pepper, paprika, mustard, and Worcesters.h.i.+re sauce in a medium bowl until smooth, about 1 minute. Add the cheese and stir to combine. Pour into the lined ca.s.serole.[image] Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, or until golden brown and the filling is puffed and set. Serve immediately. This dish can be made up to 8 hours ahead, covered with plastic wrap, and refrigerated. Reheat before serving in a 325F oven for 10 minutes or until heated through. Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, or until golden brown and the filling is puffed and set. Serve immediately. This dish can be made up to 8 hours ahead, covered with plastic wrap, and refrigerated. Reheat before serving in a 325F oven for 10 minutes or until heated through.

SOURDOUGH BREADS.

Another branch of country bread-making is sourdough baking, the oldest method commonly used to A create hearty, rustic breads. If you have been making the starter breads in the earlier section of this chapter, you are already working with the principles that apply to sourdough baking. A piece of "soured" dough saved from a previous batch of baking or batter is added to the new batch to add flavor and leavening to the baked loaf. In the world of natural starters, it is interesting to note that many people will eat only breads made from natural leavenings, as they consider breads made with commercial yeasts lacking in the proper taste, texture, and nutrition. The sourdough method of raising bread, known as prefermentation prefermentation in France, is almost as old as bread itself. It is quite a fragile process, as natural leaveners are constantly responding to ever-changing conditions in their environment. in France, is almost as old as bread itself. It is quite a fragile process, as natural leaveners are constantly responding to ever-changing conditions in their environment.

Although sourdough breads are made all over the world, the recipes I include here are in the American sourdough tradition. They hark back to the days when gold prospectors traveled across America with their starters in hand, since there was no refrigeration to store fresh compressed yeast. Sourdough starters were the reliable answer to leavening daily bread in the early West. American sourdoughs differ from their European siblings in that they are usually pan loaves with some fat and sugar added. Breads like San Francisco sourdough are made in the European tradition.

Sourdough starter baking existed long before the commercial cultivation of yeast, which is a relatively new development. Despite the mult.i.tude of technological advances in the last few thousand years, the leavening process of harnessing "wild" (noncommercial strains of) airborne yeasts has remained essentially the same as when the Egyptians discovered thousands of years before Christ that the barm scooped off the top of their beer vats had the ability to raise their wheat flour doughs. To make a starter, equal parts of flour and water are mixed and then left to stand at room temperature. The mixture provides a pleasant medium for invisible spores to propagate and begin to ferment or sour. Some of the starter is mixed in when making a bread dough, providing leavening and a varying degree of acidic flavor to the finished bread. A starter that has become heavily acidic needs to be "fed" to dilute the acidity, as strong acidity can inhibit rising power.

Before cultivated yeast was available, bakers used various starter methods, such as salt rising (a milk, cornmeal, sugar, and salt mixture was heated and then left to stand at room temperature), raw or mashed potato starters, starters activated with dry hops, or yeast-rich frothy barm skimmed off of beer and ale and then propagated in carbohydrate-rich potato water.

Wild yeast sourdough is a fermentation notorious for its temperamental results. Some geographic locations are better than others for getting a stronger starter. Pollution is one thing that seems to decrease wild yeast potency, so if your starter batter does not activate with bubbles within a few days, a pinch of cultivated yeast will need to be added to attract the wild yeasts. Depending on your "catch," your starter can be delicious or terrible. Many baking aficionados simply get some starter from a friend who is cultivating some, as it is so much easier and more predictable than catching your own from scratch. Sourdough culture requires a lot of observation and flexibility from its devotees.

The secret to sourdough baking and to controlling a starter is time, and plenty of it. A starter, also known as a "mother" or a "chef," is left to ripen at room temperature for many days to develop the desired degree of sourness, which differs for every baker and for every type of bread. In between feedings-the periodic additions of flour and liquid to a starter-the sugars in the flour break down, producing pungent acids that give the bread its distinct flavor. The starter bubbles and expands with enzyme action and smells like an earthy perfume, slightly sour and apple-like, from the malolactic fermentation. (A batch that smells bad must be thrown out because it has been contaminated by another strain of bacteria, and the process must be started over.) This is, incidentally, the same bacterial-acid conversion process that occurs in winemaking, a fact I discovered when a wine merchant was sniffing at the various starters I had bubbling away in the bakery one day, and noted the similarity in scents. Once you use some of this liquidy starter in baking, you can continue to keep and feed the remaining starter, or you can remove a piece from the dough and use a portion of that the next time. You can end up with a great loaf of bread and keep a wonderful starter going from a very small initial amount of starter. Starters are slowly built by adding fresh flour and water, usually over the course of a few days to a week, reactivating the starter and making it fresh and strong again. Ingredients such as ground ginger, c.u.min, caraway seeds, onion, apple, honey, sugar, or yogurt can be added as a boost, encouraging the activity of the bacteria. You may also choose to discard any remaining starter each time you bake, and make your starter fresh each time.

A thicker, doughlike piece of starter will always ferment more slowly than one that has more liquid. Remember that the same rules apply to sourdough starters as apply to commercial yeasts when it comes to heat and cold-excessive heat, over 100F, will kill the delicate yeasts. Starters of any type can be frozen, though, and fed and used when they are thawed, an important technique to keep seldom-used starters going. (I wish I had known it years ago when I was given some special starters and couldn't keep them going for lack of use.) So many bakers never work with sourdoughs because they just can't develop an acceptable starter. As I did not want this to be the case with you, my starters are fortified with some commercial yeast or use some of the freeze-dried starters that are commercially available.

Among the starter recipes included here is a selection of "fast" starters. These include Next-Day White Sourdough Starter, Next-Day Rye Sourdough Starter, Suzanne's Sourdough Starter, German Beer Starter, and French b.u.t.termilk Starter. Each can be made from scratch in 112 to 3 days with ease and predictability. These quick starters are also important for bakers who make sourdough breads only sporadically, as they can easily be made fresh each time you want to bake. The Grape-yeast Starter is more traditional, and does require more time to make.

Each starter has its own characteristic flavor and rising power. Most of the starters given here can be used interchangeably in any of the sourdough bread recipes in this book, and you can also vary the flours you use to make the starters. For certain recipes I have suggested certain starters, but feel free to experiment. A German Beer Starter may not be the best choice to use in Sourdough Banana Nut Bread. All you have to do is consider the ingredients you have put into the starter and how they will mesh with the ingredients of the bread, and you will have a delicious outcome. If, by chance, you already have a good starter sitting in your refrigerator, by all means take it out, feed it, and get to baking! If you make gluten-free breads, you can use white or brown rice flour in place of the wheat flour in your sourdough starter; it ferments nicely.

You can make anything from pizza dough to French bread to pancakes with a sourdough starter. Please note that this type of baking is different than any other in this book. It has a much more developed flavor with a bit of a punch. You will know when you are baking sourdough bread because even its aroma while baking will be tangy.

NEXT-DAY WHITE SOURDOUGH STARTERMakes 2 1 1/2 cups starter cups starter This is my version of a sourdough starter that is ready to use after thirty-two hours. If you start it early in the morning, it will be ready to use the afternoon of the following day. It is a sure thing for first-time sourdough bakers, eliminating an often variable product. I use a dry culture starter from Goldrush Sourdough, which is readily available on supermarket shelves and from The Baker's Catalogue. It makes a clean, tangy starter.

INGREDIENTSOne 1 1/2-ounce package commercial dry sourdough starter2 cups bread flour Pinch of active dry, bread machine, or SAF yeast2 cups warm water (85F)1/2 medium apple, peeled, cored, and cut into chunks medium apple, peeled, cored, and cut into chunksFor the first feeding:1/4 cup bread flour cup bread flour1/4 cup warm water cup warm water [image]Combine the packaged starter with the flour and yeast in a medium bowl. Whisk in the warm water until the mixture is smooth. Stir in the apple chunks. Transfer to a plastic container or crock. Cover with a few layers of cheesecloth and secure with a rubber band; then cover loosely with plastic wrap. Let stand at warm room temperature for 24 hours (80F is optimum), stirring the mixture 2 to 3 times. It will be bubbly and begin to ferment, giving off a tangy, sour aroma. It will be the consistency of a pancake batter.

[image]Remove the apple chunks. Add the first feeding flour and water and whisk to combine. Let stand for 8 hours longer. The starter will be ready to use. If you desire a more sour starter, or do not wish to use it right away, cover the starter loosely and store it in the refrigerator for 24 hours. For information about maintaining your starter, see Technique: Building and Maintaining a Sourdough Starter Technique: Building and Maintaining a Sourdough Starter.

NEXT-DAY RYE SOURDOUGH STARTERMakes 2 1 1/2 cups starter cups starter Some sours utilize rye flour and add a bit of onion, a cla.s.sic old touch that contributes greatly to the flavor and encourages fermentation. This is a fast version of rye bread starter that uses a packaged dry culture to add flavor. It has a wonderful aroma evocative of all that sourdough baking epitomizes. This starter is ready to use after thirty-two hours. Begin it early in the morning, and you'll have Sourdough Rye Bread for dinner the following night.

INGREDIENTSOne 1 1/2-ounce package commercial dry sourdough starter11/2 cups dark rye flour cups dark rye flour1/2 cup bread flour Pinch of active dry, bread machine, or SAF yeast cup bread flour Pinch of active dry, bread machine, or SAF yeast2 cups warm water (85F)1 thin slice onion1/4 large clove garlic large clove garlic4 caraway seedsFor the first feeding:1/4 cup rye flour cup rye flour1/4 cup warm water cup warm water [image]Combine the starter package with the flours and yeast in a medium bowl. Whisk in the warm water until smooth. Stir in the onion, garlic, and caraway. Transfer to a plastic container or crock. Cover with a few layers of cheesecloth and secure with a rubber band; then cover loosely with plastic wrap. Let stand at warm room temperature for 24 hours (80F is optimum), stirring the mixture 2 to 3 times. It will be bubbly and begin to ferment, giving off a tangy, sour aroma. It will be the consistency of a pancake batter.

[image]Remove the onion and garlic pieces. Add the first feeding flour and water, and whisk to combine. Let stand for 8 hours longer. The starter will be ready to use. If you desire a more sour starter, or do not wish to use it right away, cover the starter loosely and store it in the refrigerator for 24 hours. For information about maintaining your starter, see Technique: Building and Maintaining a Sourdough Starter Technique: Building and Maintaining a Sourdough Starter.

[image]Technique: Building and Maintaining a Sourdough StarterTime and nourishment are two of the key elements in developing a starter with a good, strong flavor. This process is also called "building" a starter or mother. Usually a sourdough starter does not get used up when a dough is made from it. Although many of the starter recipes I include here are easy enough to make fresh each time you want sourdough bread, you may also wish to keep and replenish leftover starter for your next baking. In order to maintain a starter in good condition, replenish it each time you use some. Also feed a starter whenever you haven't used it for 2 weeks. The directions that follow may be applied to any of the starters in this book.The quant.i.ties I give here are for replenis.h.i.+ng a starter by a lot; if you are feeding a starter you have not used, you can feed it with less, as long as you add equal amounts of flour and water.Sourdough starter1 to 11/3 cups any flour cups any flour1 to 11/3 cups water cups water1 heaping tablespoon plain yogurt or a pinch of sugar, optional[image] Let the refrigerated starter come to room temperature. Stir the separated grayish-yellowish liquid back into the mixture. If you are only feeding the starter and have not just used some of it, you may wish to discard half of it if you don't want to acc.u.mulate too much. Pour the remaining starter into a medium bowl. Add 1 to 1 Let the refrigerated starter come to room temperature. Stir the separated grayish-yellowish liquid back into the mixture. If you are only feeding the starter and have not just used some of it, you may wish to discard half of it if you don't want to acc.u.mulate too much. Pour the remaining starter into a medium bowl. Add 1 to 11/3 cups of flour (unbleached all-purpose, medium to course-grind whole wheat, medium rye flour, or other, depending on the type of starter), and an equal amount of water. If I really want to increase the activity of the starter I also add a heaping tablespoon of plain yogurt or a pinch of sugar, as extra food for the yeast. If you have about 1 cup of starter to replenish, the proportions given here will mix into a thick, creamy ma.s.s. cups of flour (unbleached all-purpose, medium to course-grind whole wheat, medium rye flour, or other, depending on the type of starter), and an equal amount of water. If I really want to increase the activity of the starter I also add a heaping tablespoon of plain yogurt or a pinch of sugar, as extra food for the yeast. If you have about 1 cup of starter to replenish, the proportions given here will mix into a thick, creamy ma.s.s.[image] Wash out the container in which the starter had been stored using soap and hot water, or run it through the dishwasher, to get rid of any remaining bacteria. Then return the starter to its original container and cover it with several thicknesses of cheesecloth held in place with a rubber band. Let the starter stand at room temperature, stirring several times a day, until bubbly, overnight to 2 days, depending on how sour you want it. It will continue to bubble and expand. If the starter turns color, has an unpleasant aroma, or grows any type of mold, the starter is out of balance and must be completely discarded. Do not leave the starter at room temperature longer than 5 days without feeding it. Wash out the container in which the starter had been stored using soap and hot water, or run it through the dishwasher, to get rid of any remaining bacteria. Then return the starter to its original container and cover it with several thicknesses of cheesecloth held in place with a rubber band. Let the starter stand at room temperature, stirring several times a day, until bubbly, overnight to 2 days, depending on how sour you want it. It will continue to bubble and expand. If the starter turns color, has an unpleasant aroma, or grows any type of mold, the starter is out of balance and must be completely discarded. Do not leave the starter at room temperature longer than 5 days without feeding it.[image] After the starter has been allowed to stand at room temperature to ferment, cover it with a layer of plastic wrap held in place with a rubber band, or transfer it to a freezer-quality self-sealing bag, and refrigerate it. The best starters are those used and replenished daily to weekly. After the starter has been allowed to stand at room temperature to ferment, cover it with a layer of plastic wrap held in place with a rubber band, or transfer it to a freezer-quality self-sealing bag, and refrigerate it. The best starters are those used and replenished daily to weekly.

SUZANN E'S SOURDOUGH STARTERMakes 2 cups starter My friend Suzanne Rosenblum believes that it is best to make a new starter for each batch of bread. For this starter, use an unpasteurized apple cider vinegar that has the "mother" floating in it, if you can. This starter does not need to be fed (Suzanne believes that feeding changes the initial sour flavor); when it gets to the desired point of sourness, it is ready to use. The whole process takes as little as three days. I also like this starter made with all or part whole wheat or spelt flour. Divine!

INGREDIENTSOne 8-ounce container sour cream (not imitation, lowfat, or nonfat)1/2 cup warm water cup warm water3 tablespoons apple cider vinegar1/8 teaspoon active dry, bread machine, or SAF yeast teaspoon active dry, bread machine, or SAF yeast3/4 to 1 cup unbleached all-purpose or bread flour to 1 cup unbleached all-purpose or bread flour [image]Whisk the sour cream until smooth in a medium bowl. Add the water and vinegar, and sprinkle with the yeast. Add the flour. I prefer to use the full cup, but Suzanne likes her starter liquidy, so she adds only 34 cup. Add a bit more flour to adjust the consistency to that of a pancake batter.