The Bread Lover's Bread Machine Cookbook Part 17

[image]Place the baking sheet on another baking sheet of the same size (called double panning), to prevent burning the bottoms. Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, or until the loaves are brown, crisp, and sound hollow when tapped with your finger. Remove from the oven and remove the loaves from the baking sheet to cool on a rack. Let cool completely before slicing.

PAIN AU LEVAINMakes 2 round loaves This is good plain bread, country style. You will run the Dough cycle several times; to make the chef, or French-style starter, which sits overnight to ferment, and then to make the levain levain sponge, which sits for a few hours before mixing the final dough. My chef starter is nontraditional, but the b.u.t.termilk makes for a quick, aromatic starter, flecked with golden specks of b.u.t.ter, that would normally take a week to develop. This loaf utilizes a sponge, which sits for a few hours before mixing the final dough. My chef starter is nontraditional, but the b.u.t.termilk makes for a quick, aromatic starter, flecked with golden specks of b.u.t.ter, that would normally take a week to develop. This loaf utilizes a levain-levure, levain-levure, a starter that is made with some commercial yeast (different than a a starter that is made with some commercial yeast (different than a levain naturel, levain naturel, a true sourdough without any manufactured yeasts and all fermentation by wild airborne yeasts). You can remove a walnut-sized piece of the dough, called a a true sourdough without any manufactured yeasts and all fermentation by wild airborne yeasts). You can remove a walnut-sized piece of the dough, called a levain levain or old dough, and place it in a jar in the refrigerator. This little ball of dough can be used in place of the chef starter when you make your next batch of bread; it needs to be used within a week. If you keep cutting off a little ball of dough whenever you make the bread, the flavor of your loaves will evolve just like in the old Parisan cellar bakeries. This bread is baked in the oven to get that good crust and round shape and has a fine, chewy texture. or old dough, and place it in a jar in the refrigerator. This little ball of dough can be used in place of the chef starter when you make your next batch of bread; it needs to be used within a week. If you keep cutting off a little ball of dough whenever you make the bread, the flavor of your loaves will evolve just like in the old Parisan cellar bakeries. This bread is baked in the oven to get that good crust and round shape and has a fine, chewy texture.

11/2- OR 2-POUND-LOAF MACHINESFor the chef starter:1 cup b.u.t.termilk2 tablespoons water11/4 cups bread flour cups bread flour3 tablespoons dark rye flour1/2 teaspoon SAF or bread machine yeast teaspoon SAF or bread machine yeastFor the levain:All of the chef starter1/2 cup water cup water1 cup bread flour1/4 cup dark rye flour cup dark rye flour1/4 teaspoon SAF or bread machine yeast teaspoon SAF or bread machine yeastFor the dough:1/3 cup water cup water11/3 cups bread flour cups bread flour2 tablespoons light brown sugar2 teaspoons salt1/4 teaspoon SAF yeast or teaspoon SAF yeast or 3 3/4 teaspoon bread machine yeast teaspoon bread machine yeast

[image]To make the chef starter, place all the starter ingredients in the bread pan. Program for the Dough cycle, and set a kitchen timer for 10 minutes. When the timer rings, press Stop and unplug the machine. Let the starter sit in the bread machine for 8 to 12 hours. The thick batter will smell pleasantly sour.

[image]To make the levain levain, place the water, flours, and yeast in the bread pan with the bubbly chef starter. Program for the Dough cycle, and set a timer for 7 minutes. When the timer rings, press Stop and unplug the machine. You will have a beautiful, s.h.i.+ny dough ball that is very sticky and flecked with bits of rye. Let the sponge sit in the bread machine for 3 hours. Check halfway through in case it fills the entire pan and you need to stir it down. It will lighten as it rises, filling the pan.

[image]To make the dough, place all the dough ingredients in the bread pan with the levain levain. Program for the Dough cycle; press Start. The dough will be s.h.i.+ny and very moist. Don't be tempted to add more flour. There will be a definite fresh fermented smell.

[image]Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. When the machine beeps at the end of the cycle, press Stop and unplug the machine. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface. Knead the very soft dough for 2 to 3 minutes by hand, adding another 1 or 2 tablespoons of flour just to have the dough hold its shape; it will still be soft. Divide in half to make 2 equal portions and shape into 2 tight rounds. Place the loaves on the baking sheet. (Or shape to fit a long or round cloth-lined basket lightly dusted with flour for rising before turning out onto a prepared baking sheet or onto the hot baking stone.) Cover the dough loosely with a clean tea towel and let rise for about 1 hour in the refrigerator.

[image]Twenty minutes before baking, place a baking stone on the lowest rack of the oven, if desired, and preheat to 425F. (Optional: To form a crisp crust, 15 minutes before baking, pour hot water into a broiler pan and place the pan on the bottom rack to steam the oven for the initial baking period.) [image]Slash the loaf decoratively with an X using a sharp knife. Dust the tops with flour and rub in.

[image]Place the baking sheet on another baking sheet of the same size (called double panning), to prevent burning the bottoms of the loaves. Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, or until the loaves are brown, crisp, and sound hollow when tapped with your finger. Remove from the oven and place on a rack to cool completely before slicing.

PANE TOSCANA.

Pane Toscana, or Tuscan bread, is a staple in Northern Italy and usually homemade. It has been made for centuries, always without salt, meant to provide contrast to the saltier foods it is eaten with. Fifteen years ago, my Aunt Marge sent me a clipping, now yellowed with age, from the New Brunswick, New Jersey, Daily News. Daily News. It was a recipe for Tuscan peasant bread. It was the first time I had seen this recipe with a bit of whole wheat flour added, and it fast became a standard loaf in my repertoire. It also called for a pinch of salt, more to the American palate. Years later I realized this recipe came from Egi Maccioni, the wife of Sirio Maccioni, the owner of Le Cirque 2000 restaurant in New York City. This is the bread called for in Italian-style bread salads, canapes with sliced smoked salmon, and in It was a recipe for Tuscan peasant bread. It was the first time I had seen this recipe with a bit of whole wheat flour added, and it fast became a standard loaf in my repertoire. It also called for a pinch of salt, more to the American palate. Years later I realized this recipe came from Egi Maccioni, the wife of Sirio Maccioni, the owner of Le Cirque 2000 restaurant in New York City. This is the bread called for in Italian-style bread salads, canapes with sliced smoked salmon, and in ribolita, ribolita, the Tuscan minestrone made with bread instead of pasta. "But it is not good for toast," said Egi. "I don't know why, it just isn't." Use the coa.r.s.est grind of whole wheat flour you can find for this bread. the Tuscan minestrone made with bread instead of pasta. "But it is not good for toast," said Egi. "I don't know why, it just isn't." Use the coa.r.s.est grind of whole wheat flour you can find for this bread.

11/2-POUND LOAF11/3 cups water cups water22/3 cups bread flour cups bread flour1/3 cup whole wheat flour cup whole wheat flour1 tablespoon gluten13/4 teaspoons SAF yeast or 2 teaspoons SAF yeast or 21/4 teaspoons bread machine yeast teaspoons bread machine yeastPinch of sugar Pinch of salt (see Note)2-POUND LOAF13/4 cups water cups water31/2 cups bread flour cups bread flour1/2 cup whole wheat flour cup whole wheat flour1 tablespoon plus1 teaspoon gluten21/4 teaspoons SAF yeast or 2 teaspoons SAF yeast or 23/4 teaspoons bread machine yeast teaspoons bread machine yeastPinch of sugar Pinch of salt (see Note)

[image]To make the sponge, place the water, 1 cup of the bread flour, the whole wheat flour, the gluten, and the yeast in the pan according to the order in the manufacturer's instructions. Program for the Dough cycle, and set a kitchen timer for 10 minutes. When the timer rings, press Stop and unplug the machine. Let the sponge rest in the machine for 1 hour.

[image]To make the dough, add the remaining 12/3 cups bread flour (for the 1 cups bread flour (for the 11/2-pound loaf) or 21/2 cups (for the 2-pound loaf), the sugar, and salt to the sponge in the bread pan. Set the crust on dark and program for the French Bread cycle; press Start. The dough ball will be moist and a bit slack. cups (for the 2-pound loaf), the sugar, and salt to the sponge in the bread pan. Set the crust on dark and program for the French Bread cycle; press Start. The dough ball will be moist and a bit slack.

[image]When the baking cycle ends, immediately remove the bread from the pan and place it on a rack. Let cool to room temperature before slicing. This bread keeps for 3 days at room temperature.

NOTE:.

With a medium-sized hand, a two-finger pinch is about 11/6 teaspoon and a three-finger pinch will be about double that amount. Use the amount that suits your palate. teaspoon and a three-finger pinch will be about double that amount. Use the amount that suits your palate.

VARIATION.

Pane Toscana with Green and Black Olives For the 11/2-pound loaf:2/3 cup pitted green and black olives, any combination cup pitted green and black olives, any combinationFor the 2-pound loaf:3/4 cup pitted green and black olives, any combination cup pitted green and black olives, any combination Follow the recipe as directed, programming the machine as specified in Step 2. When the machine beeps, or between Knead 1 and Knead 2, add the olives. Continue as directed.

OLIVE OIL BREAD.

This olive oil bread, pane all'olio, pane all'olio, uses a uses a biga, biga, an Italian starter. It is one of the easiest breads to make of those that require starters. White flour, water, and yeast are mixed together, then left to sit in the machine for many hours before the dough is mixed. The bread is baked fully in the machine, and ends up with a delicate crumb and very, very good flavor. Use a fruity extra-virgin olive oil in this dough and serve some more for dipping when you eat the fresh loaf. This bread is good made into bruschetta. an Italian starter. It is one of the easiest breads to make of those that require starters. White flour, water, and yeast are mixed together, then left to sit in the machine for many hours before the dough is mixed. The bread is baked fully in the machine, and ends up with a delicate crumb and very, very good flavor. Use a fruity extra-virgin olive oil in this dough and serve some more for dipping when you eat the fresh loaf. This bread is good made into bruschetta.

11/2-POUND LOAFFor the biga starter:3/4 cup water cup water11/2 cups bread flour cups bread flour1/2 teaspoon SAF yeast or bread machine yeast teaspoon SAF yeast or bread machine yeastFor the dough:1/4 cup water cup water3 tablespoons olive oil11/2 cups bread flour cups bread flour2 teaspoons sugar1 teaspoon gluten11/2 teaspoons salt teaspoons salt11/4 teaspoons SAF yeast or 1 teaspoons SAF yeast or 13/4 teaspoons bread machine yeast teaspoons bread machine yeast2-POUND LOAFFor the biga starter:1 cup water2 cups bread flour1/2 teaspoon SAF yeast or bread machine yeast teaspoon SAF yeast or bread machine yeastFor the dough:1/2 cup water cup water1/4 cup olive oil cup olive oil2 cups bread flour1 tablespoon sugar2 teaspoons gluten2 teaspoons salt11/2 teaspoons SAF yeast or 2 teaspoons bread machine yeast teaspoons SAF yeast or 2 teaspoons bread machine yeast

[image]To make the biga biga starter, place starter ingredients in the bread pan. Program for the Dough cycle and set a timer for 10 minutes. When the timer rings, press Stop and unplug the machine. Let the starter sit in the machine for 12 to 18 hours. starter, place starter ingredients in the bread pan. Program for the Dough cycle and set a timer for 10 minutes. When the timer rings, press Stop and unplug the machine. Let the starter sit in the machine for 12 to 18 hours.

[image]To make the dough, with a rubber spatula, break up the starter into 6 or 8 pieces and leave in the machine. Place all the dough ingredients in the bread pan. Set crust on dark and program for the French Bread cycle; press Start. The dough will be moist and smooth, but flaccid.

[image]When the baking cycle ends, immediately remove the bread from the pan and place it on a rack. Let cool to room temperature before slicing.

[image]The Right Ingredient: Olive Oil You will notice that a good many of my breads use olive oil as the fat in the recipe. This is especially true of the country breads, which traditionally use olive oil instead of b.u.t.ter or other oils. I use a variety of olive oils when baking, to match the right kind of olive oil to the character of the bread; an extra-virgin will provide a more a.s.sertive flavor than a pure oil like Sa.s.so. I usually have a sweet, mild or light olive oil for all-purpose baking, such as Napa Valley Naturals or a lite Bertolli. Some bakers go so far as to seek out an olive oil from the region in which the bread was traditionally made, for example, using olive oil from the Liguria region of Italy in certain Italian country breads.

Olive oil has long been the companion of the baker in the kitchen. It has a wonderful taste and is good for all types of baking, everything from quick breads to flat breads and yeast breads, and for frying. Olive oil has the added bonus of being low in cholesterol and saturated fat. Along with canola, walnut, macadamia and almond oils, it is among the healthiest oils to consume. It complements the taste of flour and other ingredients, both sweet and savory, in bread.

There are many grades and price ranges to choose from when buying olive oil. Perhaps you favor a domestic olive oil, an imported brand, or an organic olive oil. Each oil has its own unique flavor. This is why many bakers don't have just one olive oil of choice-they keep a few varieties on the shelf to impart different flavors to different breads. I remember the first Spanish olive oil I bought, Lerida, which was a striking gold color and came in a pretty square bottle. I always have a bottle of Stutz extra-virgin on hand. In most recipes, I do not specify anything about the type of olive oil, but simply call for "olive oil." You can use any type at all, but I encourage you to explore the many choices available. Domestic brands I use include Sciabica's, Stutz, Consorzio, B.R. Cohn Sonoma Estate, and McEvoy Ranch. There are imported brands, such as Olio Extra Vergine Buonsapore (used at Chez Panisse restaurant). Bulk oils, readily available in supermarkets, include Sa.s.so, Colavita, and Bertolli.

Store olive oil in a cool, dark place. Do not refrigerate, as it makes the oil cloudy, and do not store the oil next to the stove, where it can be damaged in the presence of heat.

Grades of Olive Oil The grade of olive oil, usually placed under the brand name, is easily identified on the label. Some artisan oils have the extraction date stamped on the back. Olive oils that are bright to olive green in color are pressed from green, unripe, olives. Yellow and golden oils are pressed from ripe black olives picked at the end of the season.

Extra-virgin olive oil is cold-pressed (that is, no heat or chemicals are used to extract the oil), and has a distinctive fruity taste and an acidity of less than 1 percent. Circular stone presses and hydralicpresses are used to extract the oil. It is considered a premium quality oil. Within this category are virgin and fine virgin. is cold-pressed (that is, no heat or chemicals are used to extract the oil), and has a distinctive fruity taste and an acidity of less than 1 percent. Circular stone presses and hydralicpresses are used to extract the oil. It is considered a premium quality oil. Within this category are virgin and fine virgin.

Pure olive oil is the most available type of olive oil. It has a more subdued flavor than extra-virgin. It also costs less than extra-virgin, and is often a blend of oils from different types of olives. It comes from pressings that occur after the extra-virgin oil has been extracted; some heat and chemical solvents are used. is the most available type of olive oil. It has a more subdued flavor than extra-virgin. It also costs less than extra-virgin, and is often a blend of oils from different types of olives. It comes from pressings that occur after the extra-virgin oil has been extracted; some heat and chemical solvents are used.

Lite olive oil is not lower in calories or fat, but is so named because it is very light in color and has a milder flavor than other olive oils. It has a tad of extra-virgin oil blended in. is not lower in calories or fat, but is so named because it is very light in color and has a milder flavor than other olive oils. It has a tad of extra-virgin oil blended in.

ITALIAN WHOLE WHEAT BREADMakes 1 round loaf The texture of this light whole wheat bread, known as pane integrale, pane integrale, made with a starter that sits for a few hours, is quite moist and soft, just like the dough. It has a delicate, evocative texture and aroma. This is a nice dinner and sandwich bread. You can bake the entire loaf in the machine, but be sure to use the dark crust setting, as this loaf is quite pale even when the center is baked. I like to bake this loaf in the oven to get more of the great crust and a bit less inner crumb. This is a superb homemade-style country bread; I like to serve it spread with cheese. made with a starter that sits for a few hours, is quite moist and soft, just like the dough. It has a delicate, evocative texture and aroma. This is a nice dinner and sandwich bread. You can bake the entire loaf in the machine, but be sure to use the dark crust setting, as this loaf is quite pale even when the center is baked. I like to bake this loaf in the oven to get more of the great crust and a bit less inner crumb. This is a superb homemade-style country bread; I like to serve it spread with cheese.

11/2-POUND LOAFFor the sponge starter:11/3 cups water cups water11/8 cups bread flour cups bread flour3/4 cup whole wheat flour cup whole wheat flour1/4 teaspoon SAF yeast or bread machine yeast teaspoon SAF yeast or bread machine yeastFor the dough:1 cup bread flour1 tablespoon sugar1 tablespoon gluten11/2 teaspoons salt teaspoons salt13/4 teaspoons SAF yeast or 2 teaspoons SAF yeast or 21/4 teaspoons bread machine yeast teaspoons bread machine yeastYellow cornmeal, for sprinkling2-POUND LOAFFor the sponge starter:12/3 cups water cups water11/2 cups bread flour cups bread flour1 cup whole wheat flour1/4 teaspoon SAF yeast or bread machine yeast teaspoon SAF yeast or bread machine yeastFor the dough:11/4 cups bread flour cups bread flour11/4 tablespoons sugar tablespoons sugar1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon gluten2 teaspoons salt2 teaspoons SAF yeast or 21/2 teaspoons bread machine yeast teaspoons bread machine yeastYellow cornmeal, for sprinkling

[image]To make the sponge starter, place the starter ingredients in the bread pan. Program for the Dough cycle, and set a timer for 10 minutes. When the timer rings, press Stop and unplug the machine. Let the sponge sit in the machine for 4 hours, or as long as over night. The environment will be nice and warm.

[image]To make the dough, place all the dough ingredients in the bread pan with the sponge. Program for the Dough cycle; press Start. The dough ball will be very moist, tacky, and smooth.

[image]Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and sprinkle with cornmeal. When the machine beeps at the end of the cycle, press Stop and unplug the machine. Turn the dough out onto a clean work surface; shape into a tight round. Place on the baking sheet, cover loosely with plastic wrap, and let rise at room temperature until almost tripled in bulk, 1 to 11/2 hours. hours.

[image]Twenty minutes before baking, place a baking stone on a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat to 450F.

[image]Slash the surface of the loaf once down the center, no deeper than 1 1/2 inch, using a sharp knife. Place the baking sheet directly on the hot stone in the oven. Reduce the oven temperature to 425F. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes, until golden brown and the top sounds hollow when tapped. The loaf will not be very dark brown due to the wheat flour and small amount of sugar. Cool the loaf directly on a rack for at least 20 minutes before slicing and serving. inch, using a sharp knife. Place the baking sheet directly on the hot stone in the oven. Reduce the oven temperature to 425F. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes, until golden brown and the top sounds hollow when tapped. The loaf will not be very dark brown due to the wheat flour and small amount of sugar. Cool the loaf directly on a rack for at least 20 minutes before slicing and serving.

PANE FRANCESEMakes 1 oblong loaf Iadapted this recipe from one in The Village Baker The Village Baker by Joe Ortiz (Ten Speed Press, 1996). This was originally developed for the food processor, but I make it in the bread machine instead. What a great recipe-the smell! The texture! It uses a by Joe Ortiz (Ten Speed Press, 1996). This was originally developed for the food processor, but I make it in the bread machine instead. What a great recipe-the smell! The texture! It uses a lievito naturale lievito naturale for leavening power, a yeasted for leavening power, a yeasted biga biga sponge that is very soft and looks like a perfect soft vanilla ice cream swirl after mixing. sponge that is very soft and looks like a perfect soft vanilla ice cream swirl after mixing. Pane francese Pane francese means French bread in Italian, but this loaf is a bit flatter than true French bread, and is reminiscent of the earthy breads made by early Roman bakers. This bread develops a st.u.r.dy, crackly-crisp crust and moist interior filled with uneven holes that will make you feel like one of the most accomplished bakers in the world. It is baked in the oven-if baked in the machine you would miss out on that fabulous crust. means French bread in Italian, but this loaf is a bit flatter than true French bread, and is reminiscent of the earthy breads made by early Roman bakers. This bread develops a st.u.r.dy, crackly-crisp crust and moist interior filled with uneven holes that will make you feel like one of the most accomplished bakers in the world. It is baked in the oven-if baked in the machine you would miss out on that fabulous crust.

11/2- OR 2-POUND-LOAF MACHINESFor the biga sponge:11/8 cups water cups water1 teaspoon SAF yeast or bread machine yeast2 cups bread flour (organic, if possible)For the dough:1/4 cup water cup water11/4 cups bread flour (organic, if possible) cups bread flour (organic, if possible)2 teaspoons gluten with vitamin C11/2 teaspoons salt teaspoons salt

[image]To make the starter, place the biga biga ingredients in the bread pan. Program for the Dough cycle and set a kitchen timer for 5 minutes. When the timer rings, press Stop and unplug the machine. Let the starter sit in the machine for 8 to 10 hours. ingredients in the bread pan. Program for the Dough cycle and set a kitchen timer for 5 minutes. When the timer rings, press Stop and unplug the machine. Let the starter sit in the machine for 8 to 10 hours.

[image]To make the dough, place all the dough ingredients in the bread pan with the biga biga. Program for the Dough cycle; press Start. The dough will be moist and smooth, but flaccid. Take a deep breath while it is mixing; this is what bread dough is supposed to smell like-fresh and yeasty.

[image]When the machine beeps at the end of the cycle, press Stop and unplug the machine. Set a timer for 1 hour and leave the dough in the machine to continue to rise in the warm atmosphere.

[image]When the timer rings, using a dough card, sc.r.a.pe the dough out of the bread pan onto a floured work surface. Knead a few times and pat into a 12-inch oval. Roll up from a long edge into an oblong-rectangular loaf. Dust the work surface lightly with a bit of flour to prevent sticking and set the loaf on the floured surface. Cover the loaf with a clean tea towel and let rest for 30 minutes.

[image]Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Carefully pick up the loaf and place it on the baking sheet. As you pick it up from both ends and carry it, it will naturally stretch and extend slightly, which will create a flattish loaf about 14 inches long and 5 inches wide. Dust the top with flour. Cover again and let rest for 20 minutes.

[image]Place a baking stone or tiles on the center rack of the oven if desired, and preheat to 450F.

[image]Do not slash or glaze the loaf. Place the pan directly on the oven rack, or on the stone if using, and immediately reduce the oven temperature to 425F. Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, or until the surface of the loaf is a deep golden brown and sounds hollow when tapped with your finger. Immediately remove the loaf from the pan and place it on a cooling rack. Serve warm or at room temperature.

LITTLE ITALIAN BREAD ROLLSMakes 3 small breads This recipe for pane all'olio Bolognese pane all'olio Bolognese is based on one found in the March 1980 issue of one of my all-time favorite food magazines, the now defunct is based on one found in the March 1980 issue of one of my all-time favorite food magazines, the now defunct Cuisine. Cuisine. It is a good, simple recipe with a nice three-hour It is a good, simple recipe with a nice three-hour biga biga starter and a three-hour rise for flavor, but it is the shaping that makes these rolls special. I give instructions for three special shapes. Two decades ago, very few people aside from native Italians knew about the intricate shapes into which these oversized rolls could be made. With the vast increase of interest in foods from all areas of Italy, authentically shaped bread and rolls are now more commonplace in the United States. These white rolls are crusty and beautiful. Please search out leaf lard; it is most flavorful in the rolls and gives them an authentic taste. starter and a three-hour rise for flavor, but it is the shaping that makes these rolls special. I give instructions for three special shapes. Two decades ago, very few people aside from native Italians knew about the intricate shapes into which these oversized rolls could be made. With the vast increase of interest in foods from all areas of Italy, authentically shaped bread and rolls are now more commonplace in the United States. These white rolls are crusty and beautiful. Please search out leaf lard; it is most flavorful in the rolls and gives them an authentic taste.

11/2- OR 2-POUND-LOAF MACHINESFor the biga starter:1 cup water11/4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour cups unbleached all-purpose flour1/4 teaspoon SAF or bread machine yeast teaspoon SAF or bread machine yeastFor the dough:1 tablespoon olive oil1 tablespoon lard, cut into pieces1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour1/2 cup white pastry flour (not cake flour) cup white pastry flour (not cake flour)2 teaspoons salt11/2 teaspoons SAF yeast or 2 teaspoons bread machine yeast teaspoons SAF yeast or 2 teaspoons bread machine yeast1/4 cup white cornmeal, for sprinkling cup white cornmeal, for sprinkling

[image]To make the biga biga starter, place the starter ingredients in the pan according to the order in the manufacturer's instructions. Program for the Dough cycle and set a kitchen timer for 10 minutes. When the timer rings, press Stop and unplug the machine. Let the starter rest in the machine for 3 hours. starter, place the starter ingredients in the pan according to the order in the manufacturer's instructions. Program for the Dough cycle and set a kitchen timer for 10 minutes. When the timer rings, press Stop and unplug the machine. Let the starter rest in the machine for 3 hours.

[image]To make the dough, add all the dough ingredients to the starter in the pan. Program for the Dough cycle; press Start. After Knead 2, press Reset, and program for the Dough cycle again, allowing the dough to be kneaded a second time. When the machine beeps at the end of the cycle, press Stop and unplug the machine. Let the finished dough sit in the machine for 2 hours.

[image]Turn the dough out onto a clean work surface; divide it into 3 equal portions. Flatten each portion into a 7-inch round with your palms. Roll up each round into a tight log. Cover with oiled plastic wrap, and let rest for 10 minutes. With a rolling pin, roll each log into a 10-by-3-inch rectangle. Cover again with the plastic wrap and let them rest for 5 minutes.

[image]Preheat the oven to 450F. Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper and sprinkle with cornmeal.

[image]To make carciofo carciofo, rolls that resemble artichokes, cut 2-inch slits that go about three-quarters of the way across, s.p.a.ced 1 1/2 inch apart, down one long side of the dough. Starting at a short end, roll up the dough. Place, with the fringed edge standing up, on the baking sheet. inch apart, down one long side of the dough. Starting at a short end, roll up the dough. Place, with the fringed edge standing up, on the baking sheet.

With your fingers, pull down the strips of dough to make a petal effect. Repeat with the other 2 rectangles.

[image]To make montasu montasu, or scrolls, roll up the 2 short ends of the rectangle toward the center with your thumbs pressing and pus.h.i.+ng, until the two rolls almost meet in the middle, with a 1-inch s.p.a.ce between the two. Twist one roll 90 and lay it on top of the other roll. Press firmly in the center to adhere the two rolls together and hold the shape. Place on the baking sheet. Repeat with the other 2 rectangles.

[image]To make the crocetta crocetta, little cross rolls, roll up the 2 short ends of the rectangle towards the center, until they almost meet, but leave a 1-inch s.p.a.ce in between. Twist one roll 2 complete turns to form a double twist in the center section. Pull one roll up and over the second roll, centering the double twist on the second roll. Twist and turn the top roll under the bottom, forming a cross. Place on the baking sheet. Repeat with the other 2 rectangles.

[image]Let stand, uncovered, for 10 minutes. Brush gently with water and bake for 10 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 400F and bake for an additional 10 to 15 minutes, until crusty and golden brown. Place the baking sheet on a rack to cool. Serve the rolls within a few hours.

CIABATTAMakes 2 large loaves Ciabatta is one of the hottest Italian-style country breads made in artisan bakeries in this country today. Carol Field paved the way by including the recipe in her landmark book is one of the hottest Italian-style country breads made in artisan bakeries in this country today. Carol Field paved the way by including the recipe in her landmark book The Italian Baker The Italian Baker (Harper & Row, 1985), and every serious baker I know aspires to master it. This is one of the best country breads you can make. It has a superb crust and flavor. The word (Harper & Row, 1985), and every serious baker I know aspires to master it. This is one of the best country breads you can make. It has a superb crust and flavor. The word ciabatta ciabatta describes the look of the loaf, like a flat slipper or old shoe, hence the regional nickname "slipper bread" around Lake Como. This dough is a perfect candidate for the bread machine because it is so wet that it couldn't be mixed by hand, except by a very experienced baker. (So don't be tempted to add more flour when you see how wet the dough is!) In addition, the mechanical kneading time of about twenty-three minutes is just right for this dough. This bread uses a describes the look of the loaf, like a flat slipper or old shoe, hence the regional nickname "slipper bread" around Lake Como. This dough is a perfect candidate for the bread machine because it is so wet that it couldn't be mixed by hand, except by a very experienced baker. (So don't be tempted to add more flour when you see how wet the dough is!) In addition, the mechanical kneading time of about twenty-three minutes is just right for this dough. This bread uses a lievito naturale, lievito naturale, or or biga, biga, a starter that is firm like a bread dough and rests overnight, so be sure to plan for a two- to three-day process leading up to the shaping of the bread and the baking of it in the oven. You will need a six-quart plastic bucket for refrigerating the dough. The combination of techniques produces a chewy bread with big, uneven holes, known as a starter that is firm like a bread dough and rests overnight, so be sure to plan for a two- to three-day process leading up to the shaping of the bread and the baking of it in the oven. You will need a six-quart plastic bucket for refrigerating the dough. The combination of techniques produces a chewy bread with big, uneven holes, known as occhi occhi or "eyes," throughout the crumb. Half of this recipe could also make a dozen long grissini (see or "eyes," throughout the crumb. Half of this recipe could also make a dozen long grissini (see Grissini Grissini), or divide the recipe into 8 portions and make ciabattini, or sandwich rolls. This formula is my adaptation of one given to me by P. J. Hamel of the King Arthur Flour test kitchen. When this loaf comes out of the oven, I always think it is magic!

11/2- OR 2-POUND-LOAF MACHINESFor the biga starter:1/2 cup water cup water11/2 cups plus 3 to 4 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour cups plus 3 to 4 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour1/4 teaspoon SAF or bread machine yeast teaspoon SAF or bread machine yeastFor the dough:7/8 cup warm water cup warm water2 tablespoons milk2 teaspoons olive oil or canola oil11/2 teaspoons SAF yeast or 2 teaspoons bread machine yeast teaspoons SAF yeast or 2 teaspoons bread machine yeast2 cups bread flour11/2 teaspoons salt teaspoons salt

[image]To make the biga biga starter, place the water, 1 starter, place the water, 11/4 cups of the flour, and the yeast in the bread pan. Program for the Dough cycle. After about 5 minutes, sc.r.a.pe down the sides and slowly add another cups of the flour, and the yeast in the bread pan. Program for the Dough cycle. After about 5 minutes, sc.r.a.pe down the sides and slowly add another 1 1/4 cup of flour. When Knead 2 ends, remove the small dough ball from the machine and place it on a work surface. Hand knead in about 3 tablespoons more flour. You will have a smooth dough ball firmer and a bit drier than one for bread, stiff yet resilient. Return the dough to the bread pan and close the lid (you could press Pause, but I just leave the lid open. This takes all of about 30 seconds). The machine will continue with the rise phases of the Dough cycle. cup of flour. When Knead 2 ends, remove the small dough ball from the machine and place it on a work surface. Hand knead in about 3 tablespoons more flour. You will have a smooth dough ball firmer and a bit drier than one for bread, stiff yet resilient. Return the dough to the bread pan and close the lid (you could press Pause, but I just leave the lid open. This takes all of about 30 seconds). The machine will continue with the rise phases of the Dough cycle.

When the cycle ends, press Stop and unplug the machine. Let the starter sit in the bread machine for 9 to 12 hours, or overnight. The dough will rise and fall back upon itself, become moist, and smell yeasty. (If you can't make the dough right away, store the biga biga in a self-sealing plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Bring to room temperature before making the dough, or warm it in the microwave for 10 seconds, before breaking up the in a self-sealing plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Bring to room temperature before making the dough, or warm it in the microwave for 10 seconds, before breaking up the biga biga into pieces and making the dough.) into pieces and making the dough.) [image]To make the dough, with your fingers, tear the slightly sticky starter into walnut-size pieces and put them back in the machine. Place the water, milk, oil, and yeast in the bread pan with the biga pieces. Add 11/2 cups of the bread flour and the salt. Program for the Dough cycle; press Start. At the start of Knead 2, add the remaining cups of the bread flour and the salt. Program for the Dough cycle; press Start. At the start of Knead 2, add the remaining 1 1/2 cup of flour. The dough will be very wet and sticky like a yeasted savarin batter. Don't add any more flour, just leave the dough alone except for sc.r.a.ping the sides into the center. The dough will end up elastic and s.h.i.+ny, but relaxed and slack, sticking to the sides of the pan. If you tried to mix it by hand, you couldn't knead it on a work surface. cup of flour. The dough will be very wet and sticky like a yeasted savarin batter. Don't add any more flour, just leave the dough alone except for sc.r.a.ping the sides into the center. The dough will end up elastic and s.h.i.+ny, but relaxed and slack, sticking to the sides of the pan. If you tried to mix it by hand, you couldn't knead it on a work surface.

[image]When the machine beeps at the end of the cycle, the dough will have almost filled the pan. The top will be smooth, but if you stick your finger in, it will be sticky. Spray a deep 6-quart plastic bucket with olive oil cooking spray or brush with oil. Sc.r.a.pe the risen dough into the container, give the top a light spray or brush with oil, cover, and refrigerate for 6 hours to overnight, but no longer than 24 hours. This long, cool rise is important for the slow fermentation and the flavor of the finished ciabatta ciabatta, so don't skimp on it.

[image]Line a large, heavy baking sheet with parchment paper (some bakers use aluminum foil) and sprinkle heavily with flour. Turn the chilled dough out onto a lightly floured work surface, sprinkle lots of flour on top, and pat into a long rectangle about 5 inches wide. Divide into 2 equal rectangles across the middle and place each portion on the baking sheet. Cover with a clean tea towel and let rest at room temperature for 20 minutes to relax the dough.

[image]Dust the tops of the loaves with some flour. Using the flat section of your fingers below the fingertips and holding them in an open splayed position, press, push, and stretch the dough, making a rectangle about 10 by 5 inches (the width of your hand). Your fingers will not press in some areas, so you will have a dimpling, flattening effect, which will end up producing the characteristic uneven texture in the baked loaf. Cover again and let rest at room temperature until tripled in bulk, about 11/2 hours. The loaves will stay flattish looking. Don't worry, they will rise dramatically in the oven. hours. The loaves will stay flattish looking. Don't worry, they will rise dramatically in the oven.

[image]Twenty minutes before baking, place a baking stone on the lower third oven rack and preheat to 425F.

[image]Spray or sprinkle the loaves with some water and place the baking sheet on the hot stone. You can slip the parchment off the baking sheet and bake directly on the stone, if you like. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until golden brown. Prop open the oven door about 5 inches and let the ciabatta ciabatta cool in the oven at least 15 minutes. Remove from the oven and serve. Wrap in plastic to store. cool in the oven at least 15 minutes. Remove from the oven and serve. Wrap in plastic to store.

TWO-WEEK BIGA.

(Cla.s.sic Italian Starter)Makes about 4 cups biga While it is convenient enough to make a new biga biga each time you bake, if you bake a lot, you can make a large batch of each time you bake, if you bake a lot, you can make a large batch of biga biga using this recipe and use it in increments for up to two weeks in any of the six recipes that follow. If you like to bake country breads, like I do, this is a real boon in saving time, especially since using this recipe and use it in increments for up to two weeks in any of the six recipes that follow. If you like to bake country breads, like I do, this is a real boon in saving time, especially since bigas bigas require none of the feeding or waiting that traditional sourdough starters do. Obviously a two-day-old require none of the feeding or waiting that traditional sourdough starters do. Obviously a two-day-old biga biga will be a bit different than a fourteen-day-old will be a bit different than a fourteen-day-old biga. biga. The older The older biga biga will be more fermented and therefore impart a slightly different flavor, but this will be more fermented and therefore impart a slightly different flavor, but this biga biga is delicious every step of the way and will have the same rising power whether it was made two days ago or ten. The aroma of this is delicious every step of the way and will have the same rising power whether it was made two days ago or ten. The aroma of this biga biga is fresh and clean, and the breads made with it are delightful through all stages of mixing and baking. is fresh and clean, and the breads made with it are delightful through all stages of mixing and baking.

Bigas can be quite loose or they can be firm, like this one. This one is used like an "old dough," or a piece of dough saved from the last batch and added to a new batch for flavor and leavening. The full flavor produced by this method shows the grain at its best; you get a natural chewiness and delightful flavor. The lump of starter is added to the machine along with the wet ingedients, and it gets incorporated throughout the dough during the mixing and kneading. Please note that for the breads made with Two-Week Biga, I add the yeast along with the water and can be quite loose or they can be firm, like this one. This one is used like an "old dough," or a piece of dough saved from the last batch and added to a new batch for flavor and leavening. The full flavor produced by this method shows the grain at its best; you get a natural chewiness and delightful flavor. The lump of starter is added to the machine along with the wet ingedients, and it gets incorporated throughout the dough during the mixing and kneading. Please note that for the breads made with Two-Week Biga, I add the yeast along with the water and biga. biga.

Note that you can use either unbleached all-purpose flour or bread flour in this biga biga recipe with good results. Also, you can make half of this recipe with good results. Also, you can make half of this biga biga recipe, if you like, but surprisingly, once you've got a batch in the refrigerator and begin to taste how good the breads are that are made with it, you'll be using it all up. My guess is that once you get used to this type of starter, you won't ever be without it. recipe, if you like, but surprisingly, once you've got a batch in the refrigerator and begin to taste how good the breads are that are made with it, you'll be using it all up. My guess is that once you get used to this type of starter, you won't ever be without it.

11/2- OR 2-POUND-LOAF MACHINES12/3 cups warm water cups warm water1/3 teaspoon SAF yeast or teaspoon SAF yeast or 1 1/2 teaspoon bread machine yeast teaspoon bread machine yeast33/4 cups unbleached all-purpose or bread flour cups unbleached all-purpose or bread flour