The Ports, Harbours, Watering-places and Picturesque Scenery of Great Britain Volume I Part 4

(_THE BRIDGE FROM THE WESTWARD._)]

SUNDERLAND.

THE BRIDGE FROM THE WESTWARD.

Under the general name of Sunderland, the three towns.h.i.+ps of Monk-Wearmouth, Bishop-Wearmouth, and Sunderland are usually comprised.

Monk-Wearmouth is situated on the north side of the river Wear, at a short distance from its mouth. Sunderland and Bishop-Wearmouth, which form one continuous town, lie on the south side of the river; Sunderland, properly so called, extending from the line of junction of the two parishes, eastward to the sea; and Bishop-Wearmouth extending towards the west. Sunderland--which has given its name to the port and to the borough--is 269 miles distant from London; fourteen from Durham; and thirteen from Newcastle-on-Tyne.

The great boast of Sunderland is the beautiful iron bridge, of a single arch, which connects it with Monk-Wearmouth. This n.o.ble structure, which is at once highly ornamental and useful, was projected by Rowland Burdon, Esq., of Castle Eden, who in 1792, he being then M.P. for the county of Durham, obtained an act of parliament empowering him to raise money for its erection; the sums advanced to be secured on the tolls, with five per cent. interest, and all further acc.u.mulation to go in discharge of the capital. The abutments, from which the arch springs, are nearly solid ma.s.ses of masonry, twenty-four feet thick, forty-two feet broad at bottom, and thirty-seven feet broad at top. That on the south side is founded on a solid rock, which rises above the level of the Wear; the foundation of that on the north side, owing to the unfavourable nature of the ground, was obliged to be laid ten feet below the level of the river. The arch, which is a segment of a large circle, is of 236 feet span, and its centre is ninety-four feet above the level of the river at low water. From the height of the arch and its comparative flatness--its versed sine, or perpendicular height from its centre to a line joining its extremities, being only thirty-four feet--s.h.i.+ps of 300 tons burden can pa.s.s underneath not only directly below the centre, but also to the extent of fifty feet on each side. The navigation of the river thus remains un.o.bstructed--for many vessels proceed to the staiths above the bridge for the purpose of taking in their coals--while the inhabitants on each side enjoy all the advantages of facilitated intercourse. The breadth of the bridge at the top is thirty-two feet including the footpaths on each side; and the carriage-way is formed of lime, marl, and gravel, above a flooring of timber, which is laid across the iron ribs of the arch. The iron ribs and blocks were cast and prepared at the foundry of Messrs. Walker, at Rotherham, near Sheffield. The whole weight of the iron is 260 tons; of which 46 tons are malleable, and 214 cast. The foundation-stone[4] was laid on the 24th September, 1793, and the bridge opened to the public on the 9th August, 1796, having been completed under the superintendence of Mr. Thomas Wilson, of Bishop-Wearmouth, in less than three years. The total expense was 26,000, of which sum 22,000 was subscribed by Mr.

Burdon.[5]

Although many s.h.i.+ps are loaded direct from such staiths as are at a short distance above the bridge, yet the greater part of the coals are brought down in keels from staiths situated higher up the river. The keels of the Wear, though of the same tonnage as those of the Tyne, are somewhat differently built, being flatter in the bottom, and of a lighter draught of water. The Sunderland keels are managed by only one man, who usually has a boy to a.s.sist him. In the Wear the coals when in bulk are cast from the keel into the s.h.i.+p by men called coal-casters; while on the Tyne, where the crew of each keel consists of three men and a boy, the coals are always cast by the keelmen. Within the last few years, a considerable quant.i.ty of coals, in order to prevent the breakage occasioned by discharging them into the keels from the spout, and then casting them into the s.h.i.+p, have been put on board the keels in _tubs_, which are afterwards raised by machinery to the vessel's deck, and then discharged into the hold. These tubs are exactly like coal waggons without their wheels, and contain the same quant.i.ty--one Newcastle chalder, or fifty-three cwt.[6] Each keel carries eight of these tubs. The number of keels employed on the Wear is above 500.

[4] The inscription on the foundation-stone contains a bad pun: "Quo tempore civium Gallicorum ardor vesa.n.u.s prava jubentium gentes turbavit Europeas _ferreo_ bello, Rolandus Burdon armiger, meliora colens, Vedrae ripas, scopulis praeruptis, ponte conjungere _ferreo_ statuit."

[5] Surtees's Hist. of Durham, vol. 1, p. 226.

[6] Evidence of Sir Cuthbert Sharp before the Lords' Committee on the Coal Trade, 1829, p. 23.

[Ill.u.s.tration: ENTRANCE TO s.h.i.+ELDS HARBOUR.]

s.h.i.+ELDS.

ENTRANCE TO THE HARBOUR.

The view of the entrance to s.h.i.+elds Harbour is taken from the bank a little below the Spanish Battery, on the north side of the Tyne, and about a quarter of a mile to the south-westward of Tynemouth lighthouse.

To the left, a part of South s.h.i.+elds is seen, with a vessel "dropping up" the Narrows, just before entering the harbour. Towards the middle of the Engraving are the two lighthouses at North s.h.i.+elds--distinguished by their flag-staffs--which, when taken in a line, are a guide for vessels in pa.s.sing the bar. To the right of the low lighthouse is Clifford's Fort, enclosed by the line of embrasures, and commanding the entrance to the harbour. To the right are the banks, of clay, which extend from the Spanish Battery to the Low Lights, and upon which the sea is every year gradually making encroachments. The present Engraving, independent of its beauty as a work of art, possesses the merit of containing the only correct view of the entrance to s.h.i.+elds Harbour which has. .h.i.therto appeared.

That portion of the river Tyne which may be considered as s.h.i.+elds Harbour is about a mile and a half in length, supposing it to commence at the Low Lights, on the north side, and to terminate at the lower end of Jarrow Slake, at the head of South s.h.i.+elds; its direction is from east by north to west by south; and the towns of North and South s.h.i.+elds are built on the banks and by the sh.o.r.e on each side of it. As the Low Lights are about a mile within the bar, the swell of the sea is not felt within the harbour.

The river is of unequal width, being in some places not more than 400 yards broad, while in others, when the sands are covered with the tide, its width is upwards of 600. From the shoals and varying width of the river, the velocity of the current differs with the breadth of the harbour. Opposite to the New Quay at North s.h.i.+elds, the average velocity in the middle of the tide-way is, at half flood, about three miles an hour; and, at half ebb, about three miles and three quarters an hour. As the easterly wind blows directly into the harbour, vessels formerly were often hindered from getting out to sea, even in fine weather, when the wind was in that quarter, more especially if they were of considerable draught of water; for frequently before such a vessel could drop down with the ebbing tide as far as the bar, there was not sufficient depth of water on it to allow her to proceed to sea. The general introduction, however, of steam-boats for the purpose of towing vessels, when the wind is shy or contrary, has, in a great measure, remedied this inconvenience, and vessels now proceed to sea at any time, in favourable weather, when there is a sufficient depth of water on the bar.

The town of South s.h.i.+elds is very irregularly built; and the princ.i.p.al street for business extends from the market-place to the lower end of the town. The market-place, in the centre of which stands the town hall, is s.p.a.cious, but the market is very indifferently supplied with every thing except fish. Westoe, anciently Wivestoe, is a pleasant village about a mile southward of South s.h.i.+elds, where several s.h.i.+p-owners and persons of property reside. Jarrow, so famous in days of yore for its monastery, is about a mile and a half to the westward of Westoe; and in the vestry an old chair is still preserved, which is said to have been the seat of the venerable Bede.

The town of North s.h.i.+elds lies on the north side of the river Tyne, and is in the county of Northumberland. The princ.i.p.al street for business, and which may be considered as forming the greater part of the old town, is the Low-street, running nearly parallel with, and at a short distance from, the river, and extending from the New Quay to the Low Lights. The greater part of the town, which is built on the bank top, extending in regular streets towards the north, has been erected within the last fifty years.

At the New Quay there is a commodious wharf, with warehouses at each end, where trading vessels load and unload, and where steam-boats leave for Newcastle. A little above the New Quay is the landing for the steam ferry-boat, which plies between North and South s.h.i.+elds, and leaves each place four times an hour, from seven in the morning till dusk, carrying pa.s.sengers across the river at the charge of a penny each. This ferry, which was only established in 1829, is a great accommodation to both the towns. Previous to its establishment, the conveyance of sheep, cattle, and horses across the Tyne, in an awkward flat-bottomed boat, managed by a single man, was attended with great inconvenience. The barge steam ferry-boats now employed are surrounded with a strong railing; and sheep, cattle, and horses can be driven on board with little trouble, and conveyed across the river without risk.

[Ill.u.s.tration: NEWCASTLE-UPON-TYNE.]

NEWCASTLE UPON TYNE.

The view of Newcastle is taken from the Gateshead sh.o.r.e, on the south side of the river Tyne, about a quarter of a mile below the bridge. From the point chosen by the artist, a better and more _characteristic_ view of the town is obtained than from any other station. The line of vessels, extending from the right of the engraving to the bridge, indicates the quay--the longest in England, except that of Yarmouth--and which, on a Sat.u.r.day, when the country people come in to market, is one of the most crowded thoroughfares in the kingdom. The steeple that rises above the houses to the right is that of All Saints. Between All Saints and the Castle--which is distinguished by its modern turrets and battlements--is the famed steeple of St. Nicholas; this the Rev. Dr.

Carlyle, vicar of Newcastle, in 1804, declared to be, in his opinion, "the most beautiful fabric existing in the world: surpa.s.sing the Cathedral of St. Sophia, at Constantinople; the Mosque of Sultan Saladin, at Jerusalem; the Church of St. Peter, at Rome; and even the Temple of Minerva, at Athens." The modern building, with a Grecian portico, in front of the Castle, is the County Court, where the a.s.sizes for the county of Northumberland are held. The Exchange is hidden by the sails of the large vessel, towards the middle of the engraving; and the bridge excludes a view of the Mansion House, which stands in friendly neighbourhood with a gla.s.s-house and a soapery, in a narrow street, with a most expressive name--the "Close."

The town of Newcastle, though its present name is not older than the reign of William the Conqueror, claims to be a place of great antiquity.

The Roman Wall--which extended from Wallsend, about four miles eastward of Newcastle, to Bowness on the Sands, in c.u.mberland--crossed the site of the present town; and it is certain that there was a Roman station here, the southern wall of which probably ran along the high ground overlooking the river in front of the old castle. In the list of stations, with their garrisons, on the line of the wall, as given in the _Not.i.tia_, _Pons aelii_ occurs as the next station to _Segedunum_; and our best informed antiquaries appear to agree in a.s.signing the latter name to the station at Wallsend, and the former to the station at Newcastle. The name _Pons aelii_, however, occurs in no other ancient work as the name of a station on the line of the wall, and no inscription has been discovered which might confirm the opinion of its being the name of the station at Newcastle. Different writers also have interpreted the list of stations in the _Not.i.tia_ from different ends, and at the present time the situation of several places remains undecided.

The Tyne is navigable as high up as Newcastle, about ten miles from its mouth, for vessels of 250 tons burden, though in some places between Newcastle and s.h.i.+elds, even in the middle of the stream, its depth does not exceed four feet at low water. A little below Hebburn quay, about half-way between Newcastle and s.h.i.+elds, it is not unusual to see three or four small steam-boats, which do not draw more than three feet water, lying aground in the very mid-channel at the last quarter ebb, and waiting for the flood tide to set them afloat. A few years ago, the corporation of Newcastle, as conservators of the river Tyne, employed a steam-boat to _scratch_ away the sand in shallow places, by means of a kind of harrow, which she towed after her. Since the accession of the present corporation to office, a dredging machine has been employed, and if they proceed in their plans for the improvement of the river as they have begun, they will merit the thanks of every person interested in the trade of the town.

But, however praiseworthy may be their efforts for the deepening and cleansing the bed of the Tyne, the present year (1853) has exhibited melancholy testimony that the streets, lanes, and alleys of Newcastle call aloud for the expenditure of the munic.i.p.al funds--if the lives of the inhabitants are not of less value than the commerce of the port. The ill-drained and badly-ventilated dwellings of some of the more densely-peopled portions of the town have suffered more from the attacks of cholera than any other place in the kingdom.

The chief exports from Newcastle, besides coals, are pig and sheet lead; anchors, and chain cables, with other articles of wrought iron; bottles, plate and crown gla.s.s; brown and white paper; common leather gloves, manufactured at Hexham; leather; hams and b.u.t.ter; grindstones, obtained on Gateshead Fell; fire-bricks; alkalies; soap; and Epsom salts. This list comprises the princ.i.p.al articles which const.i.tute the cargo of a Newcastle trading vessel proceeding to London.

[Ill.u.s.tration: BLYTH.]

BLYTH.

The view of Blyth, or more properly of the entrance to the harbour, is taken from the north side of the river, and looking towards the south-east. The cottages seen in the foreground are in North Blyth, which consists only of a few houses, chiefly occupied by fishermen and pilots. On the opposite side of the river are seen the lighthouse of stone, and the "basket light" to the left of it, in which lights are exhibited at night when there is eight feet water on the bar.

Blyth, which is a small seaport town on the coast of Northumberland, and about thirteen miles north-east of Newcastle, derives its name from the river Blyth, on the south side of which it is built. The princ.i.p.al trade of Blyth is in coals, of which more than 120,000 tons are now annually exported. The earliest notice of Blyth as a harbour occurs in _Bishop Hatfield's Survey_ in 1346, from which it appears that the Bishop of Durham claimed fourpence for every s.h.i.+p which anch.o.r.ed there, and that the sum received for that year was 3_s._ 4_d._ At what time the coal-trade was first established there is uncertain, but so early as 1610 a complaint appears to have been made to Parliament on account of a late imposition of a s.h.i.+lling a chalder levied on coals s.h.i.+pped at Blyth and Sunderland, "not by virtue of any contract or grant, as in the coals of Newcastle, but under the mere pretext of his majesty's royal prerogative." In 1624, Blyth is again mentioned in a proclamation, as a place exporting sea-coals; and in 1643 an order of Parliament prohibits s.h.i.+ps from bringing coals or salt from Newcastle or Blyth, as those places were then in the hands of the Royalists.

Within the last forty years the trade of Blyth has much increased in consequence of the opening of new collieries in the neighbourhood. A commodious dry dock was formed in 1811; and there are several slips for the building and repairing of s.h.i.+ps. A considerable quant.i.ty of articles of cast and malleable iron, manufactured at Bedlington, about three miles up the river, are s.h.i.+pped at Blyth.

Blyth is a member of the port of Newcastle; and a number of vessels belonging to persons residing there are registered at the latter port.

Nearly the whole of Blyth is the property of Sir M. Ridley, Bart. At spring tides there is about fourteen feet water on the bar, and about twelve at neaps; but at low water the bar is nearly dry.

It may be interesting to contemplate a few facts and figures in connexion with that trade which forms the princ.i.p.al occupation of Blyth and its neighbouring ports. From the evidence of an experienced coal-engineer,[7] given a few years since before a Parliamentary Committee, we learn, "that the number of persons employed under-ground on the Tyne are--men, 4,937; boys, 3,554; together, 8,491: above-ground--men, 2,745; boys, 718; making 3,463: making the total employed in the mines above and below ground, 11,954, which in round numbers I call 12,000, because I am pretty sure there were some omissions in the returns. On the river Wear, I conceive there are 9,000 employed; making 21,000 employed in digging the coal, and delivering it to the s.h.i.+ps on the two rivers. From the best calculations I have been able to make, it would appear that, averaging the coasting-vessels that carry coals at the size of 220 London chaldrons each vessel, there would be 1,400 vessels employed, which would require 15,000 seamen and boys. I have made a summary. There are, seamen, 15,000; pitmen and above-ground people employed at the collieries, 21,000; keel-men, coal-boatmen, casters, and trimmers, 2,000: making the total number employed in what I call the Northern Coal Trade, 38,000. In London, whippers, lightermen, and so forth, 5,000; factors, agents, &c., on the Coal Exchange, 2,500;-7,500 in all, in London. Making the grand total in the North country and London departments of the trade, 45,500. This does not, of course, include the persons employed at the outports in discharging the s.h.i.+ps there."

[7] Mr. Buddle, of Wallsend, whose statistics of the coal-trade have been quoted by McCulloch and other writers on the subject.