Food Matters Part 24

Other Seafood to Use for This Dish and How Long to Cook ItShrimp (large ones will take about 2 minutes per side to cook; medium will take 3 minutes total) (large ones will take about 2 minutes per side to cook; medium will take 3 minutes total)Sea scallops (cook 3 to 4 minutes per side) (cook 3 to 4 minutes per side)Salmon or halibut fillets or steaks (5 to 10 minutes total cooking time, depending on the thickness) (5 to 10 minutes total cooking time, depending on the thickness)Tuna steaks (3 to 10 minutes total cooking time, depending on thickness and desired doneness) (3 to 10 minutes total cooking time, depending on thickness and desired doneness)Squid (cook and stir for just a couple of minutes) (cook and stir for just a couple of minutes)Trout (cook 2 small whole fish or one large one; 5 minutes a side should do the trick) (cook 2 small whole fish or one large one; 5 minutes a side should do the trick)

Pan-Cooked Grated Vegetables and Sesame Fish: Instead of the cornmeal mixture, use sesame seeds to dredge the fish, pressing to make them stick to the sides. Proceed with the recipe, garnis.h.i.+ng with cilantro and lime wedges. Instead of the cornmeal mixture, use sesame seeds to dredge the fish, pressing to make them stick to the sides. Proceed with the recipe, garnis.h.i.+ng with cilantro and lime wedges.

Steamed Grated Vegetables with Fish: Don't bother to dredge the fish as described in Step 2, but sprinkle it with salt and pepper and have it handy when you begin the recipe; use a skillet with a tight-fitting lid. Follow the directions through Step 1, but after adding the garlic and spices, cook for just 3 minutes, then pour 1 cup of dry white wine, vegetable or fish stock, or water over all and immediately top with the fish pieces. Cover and steam for 5 minutes before checking the fish for the first time. If not quite ready, cover and cook another minute or two. Serve straight from the skillet, garnished with the remaining onion or scallion and the herbs. Don't bother to dredge the fish as described in Step 2, but sprinkle it with salt and pepper and have it handy when you begin the recipe; use a skillet with a tight-fitting lid. Follow the directions through Step 1, but after adding the garlic and spices, cook for just 3 minutes, then pour 1 cup of dry white wine, vegetable or fish stock, or water over all and immediately top with the fish pieces. Cover and steam for 5 minutes before checking the fish for the first time. If not quite ready, cover and cook another minute or two. Serve straight from the skillet, garnished with the remaining onion or scallion and the herbs.

Orchiette with Broccoli Rabe, My Style

Makes: About 4 servings .

Time: About 40 minutes Time: About 40 minutes

I've turned the way I cook pasta upside down: Instead of making 1 pound of pasta with 1 or 2 cups of sauce, I double the sauce and cut the noodles in half. The benefit? More vegetables, maybe a little meat or seafood for flavor, and fewer refined carbohydrates. This may go against everything you've learned about cooking pasta, but it tastes wonderful, and it works with just about any recipe, except those with heavy cheese or meat sauces.

Orchiette with Broccoli Rabe is one of my favorite combinations: the slight bitterness in the broccoli rabe is balanced by the sweetness of the fennel and sausage along with a little dose of heat. Cauliflower or broccoli are also good, though they take a little longer to become tender in Step 1. For a pure vegetarian version, skip the sausage and add about 2 cups of chickpeas to the garlic along with the red pepper flakes. Or if you'd like to add a bright flavor and a bit more moisture, replace the wine with a couple of fresh chopped tomatoes.

SaltAbout 1 pound broccoli rabe, trimmed and cut into pieces cup olive oil, or more as needed1 tablespoon chopped garlic, or more to taste teaspoon red pepper flakes, or to taste1 teaspoon fennel seeds (optional)Freshly ground black pepper to pound sweet or spicy Italian sausage (if using link sausage, squeeze it from the casing or cut it up a bit) cup white wine or water pound dried orchiette, penne, ziti, or other cut pasta, preferably whole wheat cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese (optional)

1 Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it. Boil the broccoli rabe until it's crisp-tender, 3 to 5 minutes, depending on the size of your pieces. Scoop the broccoli rabe out of the water with a slotted spoon or small strainer and set it aside. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it. Boil the broccoli rabe until it's crisp-tender, 3 to 5 minutes, depending on the size of your pieces. Scoop the broccoli rabe out of the water with a slotted spoon or small strainer and set it aside.

2 Meanwhile, put the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. When the oil is hot, crumble the sausage into the pan, and cook, stirring occasionally to break the meat into relatively small bits and brown it, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic, red pepper flakes, and fennel seeds if you're using them, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Continue cooking and stirring for another minute or so. Add broccoli rabe and the liquid and cook, mas.h.i.+ng and stirring until the broccoli rabe is quite soft, 2 or 3 minutes more. Turn the heat to low to keep the sauce warm. Meanwhile, put the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. When the oil is hot, crumble the sausage into the pan, and cook, stirring occasionally to break the meat into relatively small bits and brown it, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic, red pepper flakes, and fennel seeds if you're using them, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Continue cooking and stirring for another minute or so. Add broccoli rabe and the liquid and cook, mas.h.i.+ng and stirring until the broccoli rabe is quite soft, 2 or 3 minutes more. Turn the heat to low to keep the sauce warm.

3 Cook the pasta in the boiling water for about 5 minutes before checking the first time. When the pasta is just tender, but not quite done, drain it, reserving about a cup of the cooking water. Toss the pasta with the sauce, along with some of the pasta water to keep the mixture from drying out. Taste and adjust the seasoning and serve immediately, with the Parmesan if you like. Cook the pasta in the boiling water for about 5 minutes before checking the first time. When the pasta is just tender, but not quite done, drain it, reserving about a cup of the cooking water. Toss the pasta with the sauce, along with some of the pasta water to keep the mixture from drying out. Taste and adjust the seasoning and serve immediately, with the Parmesan if you like.

Baked Ziti, My Style: Use cauliflower instead of the broccoli rabe and use ziti; grease a 2-quart baking dish with some olive oil and heat the oven to 400F. In Step 2, before you add the cauliflower to the sausage, stir in 2 cups of chopped, peeled, and seeded tomatoes (canned are fine). Cook and stir until the water is absorbed and the mixture is saucy, then add the cauliflower and proceed. In Step 3, cook the pasta for only about 5 minutes, so that it's still quite chalky inside. When you toss the pasta with the sauce, add enough cooking water to make the mixture quite moist, but not soupy. Transfer it to the baking dish, top with the Parmesan if you like, and bake until bubbly and thickened a bit, about 20 minutes. Use cauliflower instead of the broccoli rabe and use ziti; grease a 2-quart baking dish with some olive oil and heat the oven to 400F. In Step 2, before you add the cauliflower to the sausage, stir in 2 cups of chopped, peeled, and seeded tomatoes (canned are fine). Cook and stir until the water is absorbed and the mixture is saucy, then add the cauliflower and proceed. In Step 3, cook the pasta for only about 5 minutes, so that it's still quite chalky inside. When you toss the pasta with the sauce, add enough cooking water to make the mixture quite moist, but not soupy. Transfer it to the baking dish, top with the Parmesan if you like, and bake until bubbly and thickened a bit, about 20 minutes.

Super-Simple Mixed Rice, a Zillion Ways

Makes: 4 Servings .

Time: 30 minutes Time: 30 minutes

Call it risotto, pilaf, j.a.panese rice, or soupy rice; the technique remains the same. Build a dish with rice as a base, adding ingredients from there. As you stir and cook, the rice releases starch and becomes creamy; brown rice adds a pleasant nuttiness and chew. For some ideas about varying the flavor profiles and ingredients, see the list of ideas that follows.

cup dried porcini mushrooms2 tablespoons olive oil cup short-grain brown rice1 onion, chopped as small as you can manageSalt and freshly ground black pepperOne 12-ounce can chopped tomatoes, with their liquid2 cups cooked cannellini beans, or use canned cup chopped fresh basil or parsley leaves, plus more for garnish cup grated Parmesan cheese (optional)

1 Soak the porcini in hot water to cover. Put the olive oil in a large pot over medium heat. When the oil is hot, add the rice and cook, stirring constantly, until it's s.h.i.+ny and a little translucent, just a minute or so. Add the onions, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about a minute. Add enough water to cover by about half an inch. Soak the porcini in hot water to cover. Put the olive oil in a large pot over medium heat. When the oil is hot, add the rice and cook, stirring constantly, until it's s.h.i.+ny and a little translucent, just a minute or so. Add the onions, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about a minute. Add enough water to cover by about half an inch.

2 Bring to a boil, lower the heat to a bubble, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the rice starts to become tender, about 10 minutes. By now the porcini should be soft; chop them roughly and pour their water into the rice, being careful to leave some water behind to trap the sediment. Add the tomatoes and mushrooms to the rice and continue to cook and stir occasionally, until the tomatoes break down, about another 10 minutes; add more water if needed to keep the mixture a little soupy. Bring to a boil, lower the heat to a bubble, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the rice starts to become tender, about 10 minutes. By now the porcini should be soft; chop them roughly and pour their water into the rice, being careful to leave some water behind to trap the sediment. Add the tomatoes and mushrooms to the rice and continue to cook and stir occasionally, until the tomatoes break down, about another 10 minutes; add more water if needed to keep the mixture a little soupy.

3 When the rice is tender but retains some bite on the inside, add the beans. Continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until the mixture is no longer soupy but not yet dry. Stir in the basil, and the cheese if you're using it; taste and adjust seasoning and serve, garnished with a little more fresh herb. When the rice is tender but retains some bite on the inside, add the beans. Continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until the mixture is no longer soupy but not yet dry. Stir in the basil, and the cheese if you're using it; taste and adjust seasoning and serve, garnished with a little more fresh herb.

Some Easy Variations for Mixed Rice: Rice and Peas (Risi e bisi): Omit the mushrooms (or not). If you do omit them, add another cup of water in Step 2. Likewise with the tomatoes: keep them or not. Instead of adding the beans in Step 3, add 2 cups of peas (frozen are fine). Omit the mushrooms (or not). If you do omit them, add another cup of water in Step 2. Likewise with the tomatoes: keep them or not. Instead of adding the beans in Step 3, add 2 cups of peas (frozen are fine).

Chile Mixed Rice: Toss a seeded chipotle or pasilla chile into the rice mixture with the onion, along with a clove or two of chopped garlic. Use black beans instead of the cannellini and cilantro instead of the basil. Omit the cheese and stir in a cup or so of cooked chicken or pork if you like. Toss a seeded chipotle or pasilla chile into the rice mixture with the onion, along with a clove or two of chopped garlic. Use black beans instead of the cannellini and cilantro instead of the basil. Omit the cheese and stir in a cup or so of cooked chicken or pork if you like.

j.a.panese Mixed Rice: Subst.i.tute dried s.h.i.+takes for the porcini. Instead of the olive oil, use a mixture of half peanut oil and half sesame oil. Omit the tomatoes and beans and stir in other vegetables like bean sprouts, asparagus, or chopped bok choy. At the same time add a few shrimp or cubes of tofu if you like. Keep the mixture moist with water, and at the very end add a big splash of soy sauce instead of the cheese. Garnish with chopped scallions or chives instead of the basil. Subst.i.tute dried s.h.i.+takes for the porcini. Instead of the olive oil, use a mixture of half peanut oil and half sesame oil. Omit the tomatoes and beans and stir in other vegetables like bean sprouts, asparagus, or chopped bok choy. At the same time add a few shrimp or cubes of tofu if you like. Keep the mixture moist with water, and at the very end add a big splash of soy sauce instead of the cheese. Garnish with chopped scallions or chives instead of the basil.

Coconut Mixed Rice: Omit the porcini and use peanut or grape seed oil instead of olive oil. When you're cooking the onion with the rice, add some chopped eggplant, one tablespoon of minced ginger, and another of Hot or Fragrant Curry Powder. When you add the tomatoes, add a cup of coconut milk. Use chickpeas instead of the cannellini and garnish with cilantro instead of the basil. Omit the cheese and sprinkle with chopped pistachios if you like. Omit the porcini and use peanut or grape seed oil instead of olive oil. When you're cooking the onion with the rice, add some chopped eggplant, one tablespoon of minced ginger, and another of Hot or Fragrant Curry Powder. When you add the tomatoes, add a cup of coconut milk. Use chickpeas instead of the cannellini and garnish with cilantro instead of the basil. Omit the cheese and sprinkle with chopped pistachios if you like.

Subst.i.tuting Brown Rice for White Rice in Any RecipeThis is the simplest trick ever, and it works even for risotto. Bring a pot of water to a boil (as you would for pasta) and salt it. Add the amount of brown rice specified in whatever recipe you have that calls for white rice. (If the recipe calls for long-grain rice, use long-grain brown rice, and so on.) Boil the rice, stirring occasionally, for about 12 minutes. Drain and use within an hour or so, or put in the fridge for up to a day. Whenever you're ready, begin the recipe as usual, using the parboiled brown rice instead of white rice.

Paella

Makes: 4 to 6 servings .

Time: About 45 minutes Time: About 45 minutes

Paella often looks like a big deal, but in its soul it is rice with good stuff in it, and that stuff can be anything. (The common restaurant paella is just one interpretation.) This version relies on good tomatoes, but you can use eggplant, root vegetables, or winter squash, or improvise in other ways: subst.i.tute a few scallops or mussels for the sausage, for example. For a vegetarian version, skip the sausage and shrimp; toss slices of eggplant, zucchini, mushroom caps, or carrots in some olive oil; and set them on top of the rice to roast.

To use white rice here, reduce the oven time by about half.

3 cups any stock, or water, plus more if neededPinch saffron threads (optional)1 pound ripe tomatoes, cored and cut into thick wedgesSalt and freshly ground black pepper3 tablespoons olive oil1 medium onion, chopped1 tablespoon tomato paste2 teaspoons Spanish pimenton pimenton (smoked paprika), or other paprika (smoked paprika), or other paprika3 ounces Spanish chorizo or other cooked or smoked sausage, cut into -inch pieces (optional)2 cups short-grain brown rice6 large peeled shrimp; or 2 boneless chicken thighs, cut into-inch chunks (optional)1 cup fresh or frozen peasChopped fresh parsley leaves for garnish

1 Heat the oven to 450F. Warm the stock, and the saffron if you're using it, in a small saucepan. Put tomatoes in a medium bowl, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and drizzle them with 1 tablespoon olive oil. Toss to coat. Heat the oven to 450F. Warm the stock, and the saffron if you're using it, in a small saucepan. Put tomatoes in a medium bowl, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and drizzle them with 1 tablespoon olive oil. Toss to coat.

2 Put the remaining oil in a 12-inch ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, add the onion, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until it softens, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in tomato paste, paprika, and chorizo if you're using it, and cook for a minute more. Put the remaining oil in a 12-inch ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, add the onion, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until it softens, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in tomato paste, paprika, and chorizo if you're using it, and cook for a minute more.

3 Add the rice and cook, stirring occasionally, until it's s.h.i.+ny, another minute or two. Carefully add the warm stock and stir until just combined, then stir in the shrimp and peas. Add the rice and cook, stirring occasionally, until it's s.h.i.+ny, another minute or two. Carefully add the warm stock and stir until just combined, then stir in the shrimp and peas.

4 Put the tomato wedges on top of the rice and drizzle with the juices that acc.u.mulated in the bottom of the bowl. Put the pan in the oven and bake, undisturbed, for 30 minutes. Check to see if the rice is nearly dry and just tender. If not, return the pan to the oven for 5 minutes, check again, and repeat if necessary. If the rice looks too dry at any point, but still isn't quite done, add a small amount of stock or water. When the rice is ready, turn off the oven and let it sit for at least 5 and up to 15 minutes. Put the tomato wedges on top of the rice and drizzle with the juices that acc.u.mulated in the bottom of the bowl. Put the pan in the oven and bake, undisturbed, for 30 minutes. Check to see if the rice is nearly dry and just tender. If not, return the pan to the oven for 5 minutes, check again, and repeat if necessary. If the rice looks too dry at any point, but still isn't quite done, add a small amount of stock or water. When the rice is ready, turn off the oven and let it sit for at least 5 and up to 15 minutes.

5 Remove the pan from the oven and sprinkle with parsley. If you like, put the pan over high heat for a few minutes to develop a bit of a bottom crust before serving. Remove the pan from the oven and sprinkle with parsley. If you like, put the pan over high heat for a few minutes to develop a bit of a bottom crust before serving.

Bulgur Pilaf with Vermicelli, and Meat or Cauliflower

Makes: 4 servings .

Time: 30 minutes Time: 30 minutes

The traditional version of this recipe makes a glorious side dish, but if you add protein and vegetables it becomes a meal in itself. Serve with a big salad or just before the resting time in Step 3, toss in any chopped tender green, like spinach or arugula, and let the leaves steam a bit right in the dish. If you don't have vermicelli on hand, this is a great opportunity to use up any pasta odds and ends like penne, ziti, or sh.e.l.ls; put whatever you have in a plastic bag and break them up with a skillet or rolling pin.