Food Matters Part 19

2 Add the stock, tomato, and remaining vegetables; bring to a boil, then lower the heat so the mixture bubbles enthusiastically. Cook, stirring every now and then, until all the vegetables are very tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning, add the remaining tablespoon of olive oil, and serve. Add the stock, tomato, and remaining vegetables; bring to a boil, then lower the heat so the mixture bubbles enthusiastically. Cook, stirring every now and then, until all the vegetables are very tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning, add the remaining tablespoon of olive oil, and serve.

How to Vary Fast Mixed Vegetable Soup:Up the quant.i.ty of beans, and mash some or all before adding if you like.Spoon pesto or tapanade on top.Sprinkle with croutons or bread crumbs.Pa.s.s grated Parmesan at the table.Add cooked pasta or grains at the last minute; simmer just long enough to heat through.Add fresh or frozen peas, limas, or edamame at the last minute before serving.Add some reconst.i.tuted porcini mushrooms (with their liquid) along with the vegetables; or use sauteed (or raw, sliced) fresh mushrooms.Change the herbs: try mint, basil, chives, or cilantro instead of the parsley; or use tablespoon of fresh chopped sage or thyme.Add some spices: like Hot Curry Powder, Fragrant Curry Powder, Chili Powder or single spices like ground c.u.min or coriander seeds to the onion mixture just before adding the stock.Before adding the vegetables, put some chopped root vegetables (like turnips, potato, sweet potato, or celery root) into the pot. Let them cook for about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, before proceeding.Puree half or all of the soup just before serving (an immersion blender is ideal for this).When you saute the vegetables in Step 1, add cup chopped prosciutto or other ham.

Creamy Carrot Soup

Makes: 4 servings .

Time: 45 minutes Time: 45 minutes

This soup is as good cold as it is hot, and its creaminess comes from vegetables, not dairy items, though you can certainly enrich this soup by stirring in a pat of b.u.t.ter or a splash of cream or coconut milk after pureeing.

In place of the carrots you might try fennel or celery; root vegetables like parsnips, celery root, or turnips; spinach, sorrel, or watercress; sweet potatoes or winter squash; any potatoes; peas (alone or with some romaine lettuce). If you want to add spices-either curry powder on Chapter 10 or ground c.u.min seeds are good with carrots-stir them in just before adding the stock in Step 1.

3 tablespoons olive oil1 small onion or a 2-inch piece of ginger, choppedAbout 1 pounds carrots, roughly chopped1 large starchy potato, peeled and roughly choppedSalt and freshly ground black pepper6 cups vegetable stock or water cup chopped parsley leaves for garnish

1 Put the oil in a large, deep saucepan or Dutch oven over medium heat. When the oil is hot, add the vegetables. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 15 minutes, until the carrots soften a bit. Add the stock and cook until the vegetables are very tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Put the oil in a large, deep saucepan or Dutch oven over medium heat. When the oil is hot, add the vegetables. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 15 minutes, until the carrots soften a bit. Add the stock and cook until the vegetables are very tender, 15 to 20 minutes.

2 Use an immersion blender to puree the soup in the pan. Or cool the mixture slightly (hot soup is dangerous), and pa.s.s it through a food mill or pour it into a blender. Puree until smooth, working in batches if necessary. (You can make the soup ahead to this point. Cover, refrigerate for up to 2 days, and reheat before proceeding.) Use an immersion blender to puree the soup in the pan. Or cool the mixture slightly (hot soup is dangerous), and pa.s.s it through a food mill or pour it into a blender. Puree until smooth, working in batches if necessary. (You can make the soup ahead to this point. Cover, refrigerate for up to 2 days, and reheat before proceeding.)

3 If you're serving the soup hot, gently reheat it, stirring frequently. If you're serving it cold, refrigerate, covered, for at least 2 hours. Either way, taste and adjust the seasoning and garnish just before serving. If you're serving the soup hot, gently reheat it, stirring frequently. If you're serving it cold, refrigerate, covered, for at least 2 hours. Either way, taste and adjust the seasoning and garnish just before serving.

Chunky and Creamy Carrot Soup: Use ginger. In Step 2, puree only half of the soup and return it to the pot along with some chopped shrimp or ham, or tofu cubes. Add a dried chile to the pot if you like and cook until the shrimp is cooked or the ham or tofu is heated through. Garnish with chopped cilantro, scallions, and peanuts. Use ginger. In Step 2, puree only half of the soup and return it to the pot along with some chopped shrimp or ham, or tofu cubes. Add a dried chile to the pot if you like and cook until the shrimp is cooked or the ham or tofu is heated through. Garnish with chopped cilantro, scallions, and peanuts.

Curried Lentil Soup with Potatoes

Makes: 4 servings .

Time: About 45 minutes, mostly unattended Time: About 45 minutes, mostly unattended

You can use any small beans you like in this soup, which has a variety of flavors and textures. Red lentils will cook even faster; others (whole peas, mung beans, or small navy beans) might take up to 15 minutes more.

I've offered a couple of different vegetable options, but feel free to add on. You can also use turnips, carrots, parsnips, or other root vegetables in place of some or all of the potatoes. Shredded cabbage and sliced okra are good choices. A bit of chicken is also nice: if you have some already cooked, chop or shred it and add it to the pot at the last minute. (To cook chicken along with the lentils, see the variation.)

2 tablespoons peanut or grape seed oil1 medium onion, roughly chopped1 tablespoon minced garlic1 tablespoon minced peeled fresh gingerSalt and freshly ground black pepper3 tablespoons curry powder (to make your own, see Hot Curry Powder and Fragrant Curry Powder,2 medium tomatoes, peeled and seeded if you like, and chopped (or use 4 canned tomatoes)1 cup dried lentils, washed and picked over1 quart vegetable stock or water, plus more as needed1 can coconut milk, or another 1 cups of stock or water2 medium russet or sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks1 small zucchini, roughly chopped; or 1 cup chopped green beans or carrots cup chopped fresh cilantro or mint leaves

1 Put the oil in a deep skillet or medium saucepan over medium-high heat. When hot, add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic and ginger and cook for another minute. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and stir in the curry powder. Cook, stirring frequently, until darkened and fragrant, another minute or two. Put the oil in a deep skillet or medium saucepan over medium-high heat. When hot, add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic and ginger and cook for another minute. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and stir in the curry powder. Cook, stirring frequently, until darkened and fragrant, another minute or two.

2 Stir in the tomato and lentils, then add the stock and coconut milk or water. Bring to a boil; partially cover, and turn the heat down to medium-low so that the soup bubbles gently. Stir in the tomato and lentils, then add the stock and coconut milk or water. Bring to a boil; partially cover, and turn the heat down to medium-low so that the soup bubbles gently.

3 Cook, stirring occasionally, until the lentils are just becoming tender; stir in the potatoes and more stock or water if needed. Cover again and cook for about 10 minutes, then stir in the remaining vegetables, adding a little more water if needed to keep everything brothy. Cover one more time and cook until the potatoes and vegetables are all tender, another 5 to 10 minutes more. Stir in the cilantro or mint, taste and adjust the seasoning, and serve. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the lentils are just becoming tender; stir in the potatoes and more stock or water if needed. Cover again and cook for about 10 minutes, then stir in the remaining vegetables, adding a little more water if needed to keep everything brothy. Cover one more time and cook until the potatoes and vegetables are all tender, another 5 to 10 minutes more. Stir in the cilantro or mint, taste and adjust the seasoning, and serve.

Curried Lentils with Potatoes (Dal): Thicker, less soupy, and excellent over rice or to serve with Easy Whole Grain Flatbread: Omit the tomatoes and zucchini, green beans, or carrots. Reduce the stock to 2 cups. Proceed with the recipe, garnis.h.i.+ng with chopped unsweetened coconut if you like. Thicker, less soupy, and excellent over rice or to serve with Easy Whole Grain Flatbread: Omit the tomatoes and zucchini, green beans, or carrots. Reduce the stock to 2 cups. Proceed with the recipe, garnis.h.i.+ng with chopped unsweetened coconut if you like.

Curried Lentil Stew with Chicken and Potatoes: Reduce the stock to 2 cups. Sprinkle 4 chicken thighs with salt and pepper. In Step 1, after you heat the oil, add the chicken to the pan and cook, turning once, until both sides are nicely browned. Remove the chicken from the pan and proceed with the recipe through cooking the lentils in Step 3. When you add the potatoes, return the chicken to the pot and finish the stew as directed. Reduce the stock to 2 cups. Sprinkle 4 chicken thighs with salt and pepper. In Step 1, after you heat the oil, add the chicken to the pan and cook, turning once, until both sides are nicely browned. Remove the chicken from the pan and proceed with the recipe through cooking the lentils in Step 3. When you add the potatoes, return the chicken to the pot and finish the stew as directed.

Not Your Usual Ratatouille

Makes: 4 to 6 Servings .

Time: 30 minutes Time: 30 minutes

I've got nothing against zucchini (obviously: it appears in several recipes in this book), but cauliflower makes a much more interesting contribution to ratatouille, because its crunchy chew complements the creaminess of the eggplant beautifully. If you prefer, replace the cauliflower with 2 or 3 small zucchinis or 1 large zucchini or summer squash. To add more substance here, stir in some white beans, cut pasta, roasted potatoes, or bits of chicken or feta cheese as the cooking nears its end.

1 medium or 2 small eggplants (about 8 ounces)Salt cup olive oilFreshly ground black pepper1 small head cauliflower, trimmed and cut into florets1 small onion, chopped1 tablespoon minced garlic1 red bell pepper, cored and chopped2 medium tomatoes, cored and chopped1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme cup chopped basil leaves, for garnishGood vinegar or freshly squeezed lemon juice, optional

1 Trim the eggplant and cut it into large cubes. If the eggplant is big, soft, or especially seedy, sprinkle the cubes with salt, put them in a colander, and let them sit for at least 30 minutes, preferably 60. (This will help improve their flavor, but isn't necessary if you don't have time.) Then rinse, drain, and pat dry. Trim the eggplant and cut it into large cubes. If the eggplant is big, soft, or especially seedy, sprinkle the cubes with salt, put them in a colander, and let them sit for at least 30 minutes, preferably 60. (This will help improve their flavor, but isn't necessary if you don't have time.) Then rinse, drain, and pat dry.

2 Put 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. When hot, add the eggplant, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and golden, about 10 minutes. Remove from the pan and drain on paper towels. Put 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. When hot, add the eggplant, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and golden, about 10 minutes. Remove from the pan and drain on paper towels.

3 Put the remaining 2 tablespoons oil in the pan and add the cauliflower. Cook, stirring occasionally, until it loses its crunch, about 4 minutes. Add the onion, garlic, and red pepper and cook and stir for another minute or two, until they're soft. Add the tomato and thyme and cook for another minute, until the tomato just starts to release its juice. Return the eggplant to the pan, along with basil leaves. Give a good stir, taste and adjust the seasoning, and serve hot or at room temperature, with vinegar or lemon. The ratatouille will keep for a couple of days, covered and refrigerated. Put the remaining 2 tablespoons oil in the pan and add the cauliflower. Cook, stirring occasionally, until it loses its crunch, about 4 minutes. Add the onion, garlic, and red pepper and cook and stir for another minute or two, until they're soft. Add the tomato and thyme and cook for another minute, until the tomato just starts to release its juice. Return the eggplant to the pan, along with basil leaves. Give a good stir, taste and adjust the seasoning, and serve hot or at room temperature, with vinegar or lemon. The ratatouille will keep for a couple of days, covered and refrigerated.

Impromptu Fried Rice

Makes: 4 servings .

Time: 20 minutes, with cooked rice Time: 20 minutes, with cooked rice

Fried rice is an ideal way to use leftovers. In fact, it doesn't work well with freshly made rice; the kernels have to be dry from spending some time in the fridge. This recipe specifies fresh vegetables, but use whatever you have and simply cook them long enough to just reheat. If you want some meat in there, as little as an eighth of a pound will make a difference-use ham, bacon, chicken, or whatever else you like, browned separately. Generally, the trick is to stir-fry the ingredients in stages, very quickly, so everything fries instead of steaming.

3 tablespoons peanut or vegetable oil1 bunch scallions, cut into 1-inch pieces1 red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and roughly chopped pound green beans or asparagus, cut into 1-inch pieces1 cup fresh or thawed frozen peas (optional)1 cup soy or mung bean sprouts (optional)1 tablespoon minced garlic, or to taste1 tablespoon peeled and minced fresh ginger, or to taste3 to 4 cups cooked brown rice2 eggs, lightly beaten (optional) cup sherry, white wine, stock, or water2 tablespoons soy sauce1 tablespoon dark sesame oilSalt and freshly ground black pepper to taste cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves for garnish (optional)

1 Put 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large skillet over high heat. A minute later, add the scallions and bell pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until they soften and begin to brown, about 3 minutes. Lower the heat if the mixture starts to brown too quickly. Transfer the vegetables to a bowl. Put 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large skillet over high heat. A minute later, add the scallions and bell pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until they soften and begin to brown, about 3 minutes. Lower the heat if the mixture starts to brown too quickly. Transfer the vegetables to a bowl.

2 Add the green beans or asparagus and cook, again over high heat, stirring occasionally, until nicely browned and just tender, about 5 minutes. Add them to the bowl with the vegetables. If you're using the peas, drain them if necessary and add them, along with the bean sprouts (if you're using them), to the skillet; cook, shaking the skillet, for about a minute, or until steaming. Add them to the bowl, too. Add the green beans or asparagus and cook, again over high heat, stirring occasionally, until nicely browned and just tender, about 5 minutes. Add them to the bowl with the vegetables. If you're using the peas, drain them if necessary and add them, along with the bean sprouts (if you're using them), to the skillet; cook, shaking the skillet, for about a minute, or until steaming. Add them to the bowl, too.

3 Put the remaining oil in the skillet, followed by the garlic and ginger. Just a few seconds later, begin to add the rice, a little at a time, using a spatula to break up the clumps, and toss it with the oil. When all the rice is added, make a well in its center and break the eggs into it if you're using them; scramble them a bit with the spatula, then stir to incorporate them into the rice. Put the remaining oil in the skillet, followed by the garlic and ginger. Just a few seconds later, begin to add the rice, a little at a time, using a spatula to break up the clumps, and toss it with the oil. When all the rice is added, make a well in its center and break the eggs into it if you're using them; scramble them a bit with the spatula, then stir to incorporate them into the rice.

4 Return the vegetables to the pan and use the spatula to fold everything until combined. Add the wine and cook, still folding, for about a minute. Add the soy sauce and sesame oil, then taste and add salt and pepper if necessary. Turn off the heat, stir in the cilantro, and serve. Return the vegetables to the pan and use the spatula to fold everything until combined. Add the wine and cook, still folding, for about a minute. Add the soy sauce and sesame oil, then taste and add salt and pepper if necessary. Turn off the heat, stir in the cilantro, and serve.

Quick Vegetable Fried Grains: Instead of the rice, use quinoa, cracked wheat, oat groats, or large-kernel grains like wheat berries or barley. Just make sure they're relatively dry before starting. Instead of the rice, use quinoa, cracked wheat, oat groats, or large-kernel grains like wheat berries or barley. Just make sure they're relatively dry before starting.