Food Matters Part 15

Unless the fruit you're using is very watery, you'll need some extra liquid to get a nice puree. The recipe here gives you some options and starting proportions. If you go the fresh fruit route, add some ice cubes for frostiness. If you want to skip the dairy ingredients altogether, omit the yogurt, use the whole frozen banana, and increase the fruit juice as needed for the right consistency. To vary the flavors, try coconut milk, pineapple juice, or exotic nectars.

3 cups unsweetened frozen or fresh fruit, any combination (strawberries, blueberries, mango, peaches, melon, etc.) frozen banana1 cup plain yogurt, nondairy milk, or juice cup apple juice or other liquid; more if neededMaple syrup or honey to taste (optional)

Put all ingredients in a blender and whiz until smooth. If the machine is not pureeing, add a little more apple juice or other liquid as needed. Serve immediately.

Porridge, Updated

Makes: 4 to 6 servings .

Time: 15 minutes Time: 15 minutes

Porridge is an ancient and international breakfast staple, for good reason: It's cheap, easy, and nutritious. Oatmeal and cornmeal mush are the American cla.s.sics, but you need not stop there: Use any ground, cut, or rolled grain. Steer clear, though, of fast-cooking or instant oats, which are tasteless. For extra flavor or texture, stir in fresh or dried fruit, nuts and seeds, vanilla, or ground spices, like cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, or cardamom; add sweetness with a little honey or syrup or richness with a small pat of b.u.t.ter, or a spoonful of milk or cream.

To go savory, try topping the porridge with a spoonful of chunky salsa, grated cheese, chopped hard-boiled egg (or, for a special treat, poached or fried egg), a drizzle of soy sauce and a few sliced scallions, or simply coa.r.s.e salt and freshly ground pepper. Or fold in leftover chopped vegetables (mushrooms are nice) or raw tender greens (like spinach) and let them wilt a bit.

Cooking times will vary depending on the grain you use, but even if you're cooking for yourself you may as well make a full batch, since this keeps for days in the fridge and reheats perfectly in the microwave. (This means you can make porridge at night or any other time that's convenient for you.)

Pinch of salt2 cups grain, like rolled oats (or other rolled grain), cornmeal (or grits), cracked wheat, quinoa, millet, or short-grain brown riceb.u.t.ter, to taste (optional)Salt, sweetener (like maple syrup, sugar, or honey), and/or milk or cream, as desired

1 Combine 4 to 4 cups water (more water will produce creamier porridge), the salt, and the grain or grains in a medium saucepan and turn the heat to high. When the water boils, turn the heat to low and cook, stirring frequently, until the water is just absorbed: about 5 minutes for rolled oats, 15 minutes for cornmeal or cracked wheat, 30 minutes for quinoa or millet, or up to 45 minutes or more for brown rice. Add water as needed to keep the porridge from sticking. Combine 4 to 4 cups water (more water will produce creamier porridge), the salt, and the grain or grains in a medium saucepan and turn the heat to high. When the water boils, turn the heat to low and cook, stirring frequently, until the water is just absorbed: about 5 minutes for rolled oats, 15 minutes for cornmeal or cracked wheat, 30 minutes for quinoa or millet, or up to 45 minutes or more for brown rice. Add water as needed to keep the porridge from sticking.

2 When the grains are very soft and the mixture is thickened, serve or cover the pan and turn off the heat; you can let sit for up to 15 minutes. Uncover, stir, add other ingredients as desired, and serve. When the grains are very soft and the mixture is thickened, serve or cover the pan and turn off the heat; you can let sit for up to 15 minutes. Uncover, stir, add other ingredients as desired, and serve.

Breakfast Couscous

Makes: 4 servings .

Time: 20 minutes Time: 20 minutes

Two of my favorite breakfast grains are couscous and bulgur (which is still sold as the commercial breakfast cereal Wheatena; see the variation). Neither requires cooking (they both steep, like tea), so they're perfect for even the busiest mornings-and really tough to screw up.

Both take perfectly to fresh or dried fruit, nuts, and a drizzle of maple syrup or honey; milk is optional. You can also take this in a savory direction, adding leftover sauteed mushrooms along with bits of sausage, chopped ham, or bacon. See Leftover Grains for Breakfast, on Chapter 11, for specific ideas.

1 cup whole wheat or white couscousSalt1 cup fresh fruit (sliced bananas, berries, diced apples, peaches) cup chopped nuts (optional) cup dried fruit like raisins, dates, or coconut (optional)Drizzle of honey or maple syrup

Put the couscous in a medium pot with a tight-fitting lid and add 1 cups of water and a pinch of salt. Bring the water to a boil, then cover and remove from the heat. Let steep for at least 10 minutes (5 minutes if using white couscous), or up to 20. Add the fruit, nuts, and honey if using. Fluff with a fork and serve.

Breakfast Bulgur: Use 1 cup of any grind of bulgur, with 2 cups boiling water. Stir once and let sit. Fine bulgur will be tender in 10 to 15 minutes, medium in 15 to 20 minutes, and coa.r.s.e in 20 to 25. If any water remains when the bulgur is done, put it in a fine strainer and press down on it, or squeeze the bulgur in a cloth. Fluff with a fork and add fruit, nuts, and honey, if using. Use 1 cup of any grind of bulgur, with 2 cups boiling water. Stir once and let sit. Fine bulgur will be tender in 10 to 15 minutes, medium in 15 to 20 minutes, and coa.r.s.e in 20 to 25. If any water remains when the bulgur is done, put it in a fine strainer and press down on it, or squeeze the bulgur in a cloth. Fluff with a fork and add fruit, nuts, and honey, if using.

Alternatives to MilkReducing consumption of animal protein sometimes means looking beyond ordinary milk, and there are good alternatives, made from nuts, grains, and legumes. Just be sure to read the labels. Most are sweetened; look for packages that specifically say "unsweetened." Many are flavored with vanilla or even chocolate (which you might like as long as you're not expecting plain). And some, especially nut milks, include gums or other ingredients.

Soy milk: Almost as high in protein as cow's milk, soy milk makes a fine daily alternative for coffee, tea, and cereal. It's also handy because it separates less during heating than other milk alternatives; this sometimes makes it a good subst.i.tute for baking and cooking. Almost as high in protein as cow's milk, soy milk makes a fine daily alternative for coffee, tea, and cereal. It's also handy because it separates less during heating than other milk alternatives; this sometimes makes it a good subst.i.tute for baking and cooking.

Nut milk: A great choice for desserts, grain dishes, and thick soups, since it actually adds a welcome flavor to any dish that takes to the taste of nuts. Also really nice as a replacement for cream or half-and-half in coffee. A great choice for desserts, grain dishes, and thick soups, since it actually adds a welcome flavor to any dish that takes to the taste of nuts. Also really nice as a replacement for cream or half-and-half in coffee.

Oat milk: With a consistency similar to low-fat or skim milk, oat milk is good for drinking but a little thin for cooking. It has a neutral taste and a pretty golden color. With a consistency similar to low-fat or skim milk, oat milk is good for drinking but a little thin for cooking. It has a neutral taste and a pretty golden color.

Rice milk: Slightly sweeter than oat milk or soy milk, this has a neutral flavor and a thin, almost watery consistency. Slightly sweeter than oat milk or soy milk, this has a neutral flavor and a thin, almost watery consistency.

Coconut milk: With a lovely flavor and a thick consistency, coconut milk is ideal for desserts and Asian soups, stews, and sauces; it heats up beautifully. Though it's quite high in fat, light or reduced-fat coconut milk is usually a fine subst.i.tute. With a lovely flavor and a thick consistency, coconut milk is ideal for desserts and Asian soups, stews, and sauces; it heats up beautifully. Though it's quite high in fat, light or reduced-fat coconut milk is usually a fine subst.i.tute.

Anything Goes Granola

Makes: About 9 cups .

Time: 30 minutes Time: 30 minutes

Granola is a versatile snack and breakfast food. Unfortunately, most packaged stuff is usually too sweet, more like candy than cereal. Though some of the smaller production brands are nice, it remains worth making and customizing your own.

Usually, granola has a high proportion of rolled oats, but you can add different rolled grains like wheat, rye, or kamut. Play with the flavor by tossing different nuts and seeds into the mix, adding a teaspoon of vanilla or ground spices like cinnamon, ginger, cardamom, or nutmeg (alone or in combination), or using any chopped dried fruit-dates, cranberries, cherries, blueberries, apricots, pineapple, crystallized ginger, or banana chips.

5 cups rolled oats (not quick-cooking or instant) or other rolled grains quick-cooking or instant) or other rolled grains3 cups mixed nuts and seeds, like sunflower seeds, chopped walnuts, pecans, almonds, cashews, and sesame seeds1 cup shredded, unsweetened coconut1 teaspoon ground cinnamon, or other spices to taste to 1 cup honey or maple syrup, or to tasteSalt1 teaspoon vanilla (optional)1 to 1 cups raisins or chopped dried fruit

1 Heat the oven to 350F. In a large bowl, combine the oats, nuts and seeds, coconut, cinnamon, sweetener, and vanilla if using; sprinkle with a little salt. Toss well to thoroughly distribute ingredients. Spread the mixture on a rimmed baking sheet and bake for 30 minutes or a little longer, stirring occasionally. The granola should brown evenly; the darker it gets without burning, the crunchier it will be. Heat the oven to 350F. In a large bowl, combine the oats, nuts and seeds, coconut, cinnamon, sweetener, and vanilla if using; sprinkle with a little salt. Toss well to thoroughly distribute ingredients. Spread the mixture on a rimmed baking sheet and bake for 30 minutes or a little longer, stirring occasionally. The granola should brown evenly; the darker it gets without burning, the crunchier it will be.

2 Remove pan from oven and add raisins. Cool on a rack, stirring now and then until the granola reaches room temperature. Put in a sealed container and store in refrigerator; it will keep indefinitely. Remove pan from oven and add raisins. Cool on a rack, stirring now and then until the granola reaches room temperature. Put in a sealed container and store in refrigerator; it will keep indefinitely.

Swiss-Style Muesli: Basically uncooked granola, so it's even easier: Omit the vanilla and honey or syrup. Combine the oats, nuts, seeds, coconut, cinnamon, and raisins in a large bowl, and sprinkle with salt. Toss the mixture with cup brown sugar. Serve with yogurt, fresh fruit, honey, or milk. Store as you would granola. Basically uncooked granola, so it's even easier: Omit the vanilla and honey or syrup. Combine the oats, nuts, seeds, coconut, cinnamon, and raisins in a large bowl, and sprinkle with salt. Toss the mixture with cup brown sugar. Serve with yogurt, fresh fruit, honey, or milk. Store as you would granola.

Leftover Grains for BreakfastFreshly made oatmeal, couscous, and bulgur are all lovely ways to start the day. But since you're integrating whole grains into your daily diet (easy enough, now that you're cooking Whole Grains without Measuring on Chapter 9), there are probably leftovers in the fridge.A reheated bowl of any grain-brown rice, quinoa, barley, millet, cracked wheat, farro, or wheat berries-quickly becomes breakfast, with the addition of some fresh or dried fruit, nuts, or ground spices. (The microwave is ideal for heating leftover grains, or put them in a small pot with a few drops of water and set on the stove over low heat.) Add a splash of milk, maple syrup, or honey if you like. Or go the savory route and toss the grains with a spoonful of leftover sauteed veggies, chunky salsa, or a drizzle of soy sauce and handful of sprouts.

More-Vegetable-Than-Egg Frittata

Makes: 2 or 4 servings .

Time: 30 minutes Time: 30 minutes

Frittata is great anytime, hot or at room temperature, and can be made with almost anything. In the Food Matters kitchen, the ratio of vegetable to egg changes dramatically, with terrific results: I use four to six cups of vegetables and just two or three eggs for two hungry people, or for four or more servings as part of a larger meal or a larger appetizer. The vegetables remain dominant and delicious.

You can start with either cooked or raw vegetables: Try ribbons of spinach or chard, chopped fresh or dried tomatoes, potato slices, asparagus, broccoli rabe, sauteed mushrooms, zucchini, or eggplant cubes. Fresh basil is lovely with nearly everything, but other herbs like tarragon or mint are also super. And of course you can toss in some cooked crumbled sausage, bacon, or chopped ham, or even shrimp just before adding the eggs.

2 tablespoons olive oil onion, peeled and slicedSalt and freshly ground black pepper4 to 6 cups of any chopped or sliced raw or cooked vegetables, drained of excess moisture if necessary cup fresh basil leaves, or 1 teaspoon chopped fresh tarragon or mint leaves (optional)2 or 3 eggs cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese, optional

1 Put a tablespoon of the olive oil in a skillet and turn the heat to medium. When the oil is hot, add the onion and cook, sprinkling with salt and pepper, until it's soft, about 3 minutes. Add the vegetables, raise the heat, and cook, stirring occasionally, until they soften, anywhere from a couple of minutes for greens to 15 minutes for sliced potatoes. Adjust the heat so the vegetables brown a little without scorching. (If you're starting with precooked vegetables, add them to the onions and give a couple of good stirs before proceeding.) Put a tablespoon of the olive oil in a skillet and turn the heat to medium. When the oil is hot, add the onion and cook, sprinkling with salt and pepper, until it's soft, about 3 minutes. Add the vegetables, raise the heat, and cook, stirring occasionally, until they soften, anywhere from a couple of minutes for greens to 15 minutes for sliced potatoes. Adjust the heat so the vegetables brown a little without scorching. (If you're starting with precooked vegetables, add them to the onions and give a couple of good stirs before proceeding.)

2 When the vegetables are nearly done, turn the heat to low and add the basil. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the pan is almost dry, up to another 5 minutes for wetter ingredients like tomatoes or mushrooms. When the vegetables are nearly done, turn the heat to low and add the basil. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the pan is almost dry, up to another 5 minutes for wetter ingredients like tomatoes or mushrooms.

3 Meanwhile, beat the eggs with some salt and pepper, along with the cheese if you're using it. Pour over the vegetables, using a spoon if necessary to distribute them evenly. Cook, undisturbed, until the eggs are barely set, 10 minutes or so. (You can set them further by putting the pan in a 350F oven for a few minutes, or running it under the broiler for a minute or two.) Cut into wedges and serve hot, warm, or at room temperature. Meanwhile, beat the eggs with some salt and pepper, along with the cheese if you're using it. Pour over the vegetables, using a spoon if necessary to distribute them evenly. Cook, undisturbed, until the eggs are barely set, 10 minutes or so. (You can set them further by putting the pan in a 350F oven for a few minutes, or running it under the broiler for a minute or two.) Cut into wedges and serve hot, warm, or at room temperature.

Better Poached Eggs: Soupy in a good way. In Step 2, instead of cooking the vegetables until dry, when they're still soupy and on the raw side, add 2 cups (or more) vegetable stock or water. Bring to a gentle boil and carefully crack the eggs into the bubbling mixture. Cook, uncovered, until the eggs are set and done as you like them, anywhere from 3 to 7 minutes. Scoop the eggs, the vegetables, and some of the cooking liquid into bowls and serve. Soupy in a good way. In Step 2, instead of cooking the vegetables until dry, when they're still soupy and on the raw side, add 2 cups (or more) vegetable stock or water. Bring to a gentle boil and carefully crack the eggs into the bubbling mixture. Cook, uncovered, until the eggs are set and done as you like them, anywhere from 3 to 7 minutes. Scoop the eggs, the vegetables, and some of the cooking liquid into bowls and serve.

Whole Grain Pancakes