The Highlands of Ethiopia Part 51

The rehearsal of the praises and martial achievements of the reigning sovereign occupied another half hour, during which the dancing was even more energetic, and the music more boisterous than ever. Taking their seats before the throne, the priests of Saint George, fairly worn out by their exertions, at length made way for those of "our Lady," who, after the enaction of similar absurdities, were followed in succession by those of Medha.n.a.lem, Aferbeine, and Saint Michael, the latter distinguished by the ma.s.sive embossed silver umbrella. As the united body rent the air with renewed encomiums on the royal prowess in arms, dictated to them line by line by one of the Alakas, His Majesty enquired of me whether similar ceremonies were performed before the sovereigns of Egypt during the holy inst.i.tution of Lent?--whether the Coptic priesthood there were not less elegantly habited than the Abyssinian dignitaries present?--and whether the Ethiopic fasts were observed in Saint Thomas's town, as India is invariably styled by the Abyssinians, or in any other part of the Christian world?

The edifying conversation was, however, suddenly interrupted by the cessation of the priestly voices. Rising and standing on the throne, the monarch now received in succession, at the hands of the dwarf father confessor, the carved croziers of bra.s.s or silver, belonging to the numerous functionaries of the five churches, many hundreds in number; and with exemplary devoutness, he raised all in turn to his lips. With each sacred symbol of the season, was handed a rod of green rushes, and every person present followed the royal example, by wreathing a fillet about his brows, to be worn during the residue of the day. Largesses, with new silver crosses, were then presented to the several Alakas, who were invested with striped cotton robes, and charged with alms for distribution to the poor.

During this tedious process, whereof the king seemed no less heartily weary than ourselves, Tekla Mariam, the state scrivener, had been carefully extracting, from an endless succession of envelopes and dirty cotton bags and wrappers, something which he appeared equally desirous to conceal and to disclose. Drawing me mysteriously into a dark corner, he partially revealed a rudely carved block of wood, presenting nothing very remarkable in its appearance, but evidently much-prized by the possessor. "You will have perceived," whispered the learned man, in a scarcely audible voice--"you will doubtless have perceived that this is a fac-simile of the table of the law delivered to Moses on the Mount.

It requires nothing but the Ten Commandments; and of these I have no question that you will be able to furnish me with a copy in the unknown tongue."

Oxen, a.s.sembled for consumption in the city on the termination of the great fast, completely choked the road down from the palace. Of five hundred head brought together with this munificent design, there was not one that appeared to possess another hour of natural existence, all being diseased, and so horribly emaciated as to recall vividly to mind the aged pensioners of a Hindoo cattle asylum in the East. Many had actually died since their arrival within the enclosure, and it appeared wonderful whence so many sickening objects had been collected. Yet the liberality of the monarch was vaunted and extolled by all who were to share it; and it was unanimously declared that the fault rested solely with the public officers who had been entrusted with the royal commands.

His Majesty, who, during Pa.s.sion Week, had been very regular in his vigils and attendance at divine service, pa.s.sed the greater part of the night in Saint Michael's church, and on the first crowing of the c.o.c.k on Easter morning, broke his long fast. The feasting now became general.

The five hundred oxen having been slaughtered, were devoured raw in the various quarters of the city; and whether in eating or in drinking, every inhabitant appeared exerting himself to the utmost to make up as expeditiously as possible for the weary restraint that had been imposed on his appet.i.te. Numbers were soon to be seen ranging the streets in brutal intoxication; whilst the court buffoon, at the head of a party of drunken fiddlers, made his way to the dwelling of every person of note, and recited his praises in a series of extemporaneous couplets.

According to immemorial custom, two state-prisoners were liberated from Goncho, on the occasion of these festivities; the royal clemency not however extending to any of the hapless and unoffending members of the blood-royal, who have shared the dungeon from infancy. During one week a public table is kept by the viceroy, to which the town's people of every grade resorting, drunken brawls and broken heads are diurnal occurrences. Oxen, bread, and beer, were liberally supplied, by the royal command, to the long train of worthless menials at the Residency; and in such high good humour were the priesthood, that, forgetting all their former maledictions and denunciations, they were pleased to ascribe a recent heavy fall of rain, which had proved highly beneficial to the husbandman, solely to the agency of "the king's strong strangers."

Volume 3, Chapter x.x.xIII.

FESTIVITIES OF EASTER.

Easter day, instead of being celebrated on the Sunday following the first full moon after the vernal equinox, is in Abyssinia kept one lunation later. On its recurrence, we received a special invitation to the annual public banquet held in the palace; and, whilst ascending the hill in full uniform, were preceded by the capering leader of the royal band. "Let me sing--I will sing," he exclaimed, as the attendants would have restrained his antics--"why should not the father of song dance before the fathers of gold?" Tents had been erected in the courtyard, and a separate repast provided for the members of the British Emba.s.sy.

Countless crowds, decked out in their gayest apparel, filled every avenue and enclosure; and long files of slaves, with jars, baskets, and trenchers, hurrying to and fro from the kitchens and magazines, proclaimed the extensive nature of the preparations making for the regal entertainment.

In the morning at eight o'clock, the doors of the great hall were thrown open, and a burst of wild music from the royal band ushered in the company to a s.p.a.cious barn-like apartment, the dingy aspect of which formed a strong contrast to the galaxy of light that illumines regal hospitality in Europe. Holding high festival to the entire adult population of the metropolis, who for six weeks past had subsisted on cow-kail and stinging-nettles, the king reclined in state within a raised alcove, furnished with the wonted velvet cus.h.i.+ons and tapestries, and loaded with silver ornaments--the abridgement of ancient Ethiopic magnificence. Priests, n.o.bles, warriors, baalomaals, and pages, stood around the throne, which was flanked by a long line of attendants, bearing straight silver falchions of antique Roman model, belonging to the different churches. Bull-hides carpeted the floor; and the lofty walls of the chamber, although dest.i.tute of architectural decoration, were hung throughout with a profusion of richly-emblazoned s.h.i.+elds, from each of which depended a velvet scarf or cloak of every colour in the rainbow.

A low horse-shoe table of wicker-work, supported upon basket pedestals, extended the entire length of the hall. Thin unleavened cakes of sour teff heaped one upon the other served as platters. Mountains of wheaten bread piled in close contiguity, and crowned with fragments of stewed fowls, covered the groaning board. Bowls containing a decoction of red pepper, onions, and grease, were flanked by long-necked decanters of old mead; and at short intervals stood groups of slaves carrying baskets crammed with reeking collops of raw flesh just severed from the newly-slain carca.s.s.

Taking their seats in treble rows upon the ground, the crowded guests were each provided with his own knife, fas.h.i.+oned like a reaping-hook, and serving him equally in the battlefield and at the banquet. Four hundred voracious appet.i.tes, whetted by forty days of irksome abstinence, were constantly ministered to by fresh arrivals of quivering flesh from the courtyard, where oxen in quick succession were being thrown down and slaughtered in the name of the Father, the Son, and the Holy Ghost. Barilles and capacious horns filled with hydromel of intoxicating age were rapidly drained and replenished under the eye of the monarch; and strings of eunuchs with the females pertaining to the royal kitchen, clad in gala dresses and striped cotton robes, pa.s.sed and repa.s.sed continually with interminable supplies of bread to rebuild the demolished fabric on the uprising of each satiated group.

Again the great doors were thrown open, and another famished set entered, amid the increasing din. Harpers and fiddlers played, danced, and sang with untiring perseverance; and ever and anon one of the king's female choristers lifted up her shrill voice with the most extravagant panegyric on the hospitality and munificence of her royal master, or burst forth into unqualified eulogy on the liberality of his British guests.

"In stature like the lance he bears, His G.o.dlike mien the prince declares; And fam'd for virtue through the land, All bow to Saloo's just command.

"The sabre feels the royal grasp.

And Pagans writhe in death's cold clasp; The Galla taste the captive fare.

And dread the vengeance which they dare."

"Our warriors tremble at the sight of the mighty elephant, but he sinks prostrate beneath the guns of the white men--Weiho, weiho,

"They are a brave nation.

"We have been loaded with strange gifts, for the white men hold in their hands the keys of health and wealth--Weiho,

"They are a great nation.

"Then hail to the friends who came o'er the wide water, Strangers and guests from a far distant land; And welcome to Shoa, the fortune which brought her The lords of the daring and generous hand."

The royal band, which occupied the vacant s.p.a.ce between the tables, is composed of many wind instruments of various lengths and sizes--the _embilta_ having a perforation to which the lips are applied as in the flute, whilst the _malakat_ is fas.h.i.+oned after the form of a trombone.

No performer possesses above one pipe, nor, like the Russian, is he master of more than one note. Tune there is none--each playing according to the dictates of his own taste, unguided by any musical scale. After the hoa.r.s.e and terrible blast of the trumps, the symphony falls soft upon the ear; and it was on this occasion curiously contrasted with the deep thunder of the _kubbero_, which pealed without intermission from the secret apartments of the queen.

The harp, styled _bugana_, is a truly strange fabrication of wood, leather, and sheep's entrails. It presents the appearance of an old portmanteau which has been built upon by children with the rudest materials, in imitation of the lyre of the days of Jubal. Possessing five strings, and used only as an accompaniment to the voice, the monotonous notes produced are in strict unison with the appearance of the instrument; and even in the halls of Menilek, where the chords are struck by a master finger, they shed "no soul of music," and might be mute with advantage.

What then is to be said of the Abyssinian fiddle, whose squeaking voice presided at this festive board? Alas! the inharmonious sounds elicited by the grating contact of the bow might lead to the conclusion that the unhappy spirit of music was confined in the interior, and uttered harsh screams and moans as fresh tortures were inflicted upon her agonised sinews! A gourd, or a hollow square of wood, is covered with a skin of parchment as a sounding-board, and furnished with a rude neck and a single string. Years of practice have imparted to Daghie, the court buffoon, an extraordinary degree of excellence; but even he is not Paganini; and every amateur performer in the realm considering himself at perfect liberty to sc.r.a.pe throughout the day with soul-harrowing perseverance, unlucky, indeed, must be p.r.o.nounced the site of that residence which is adjacent to the proprietor of a _masanko_.

As Easter day drew on to its close, the riotous mirth of uncontrolled festivity waxed louder and louder within the palace walls, whilst quarrels and drunken brawls prevailed throughout the city. The carousal continued until dark, by which time the bones of three hundred and fifty steers had been picked--countless measures of wheat had been consumed-- and so many hogsheads of potent old hydromel had been drained to the dregs, that, saving the royal and munificent host, scarcely one sober individual, whether n.o.ble or plebeian, was any where to be seen.

Volume 3, Chapter x.x.xIV.

SAINT GEORGE'S DAY.

At Kondie, in the church dedicated to the patron saint of England, lie interred the remains of Woosen Suggud, and thither, according to wont, the despot proceeded on Saint George's day. The sepulchre of the departed monarch is screened from gaze amid a sombre grove of evergreen juniper, a.s.suming the shapes, some of the cedar, others of the cypress and the yew:--

"Dark trees still sad when others' grief is fled, The only constant mourners o'er the dead."

Kings alone are honoured with a coffin. Manufactured of sweet wood, and perforated with many apertures, it is placed on stone trestles amid clouds of frankincense, and after a season removed into the mausoleum; the walls of which are usually bedaubed with clumsy designs, intended to commemorate the exploits in the hunting field, the military actions, and the heroic achievements of the royal occupant. His Majesty's orisons at the shrine of his father being concluded, he turned his steps to the palace, now fast falling to decay, which formed the scene of the a.s.sa.s.sination of the despotic tyrant. Surrounded by the former capital of Shoa, it occupies the bleak summit of one of the loftiest mountains in the range, and commands a magnificent prospect over the greater portion of Efat. Mamrat, now diminished from thirteen to one thousand feet, no longer loomed a giant. Through the clouds which flitted across its stern bosom lay revealed the only path by which the royal treasures are accessible; and the white peak of Woti, rising from dense ma.s.ses of timber, and terminating in a basaltic column, now formed the most conspicuous feature in the rugged landscape.

"You observe those woods," inquired His Majesty, pointing after a long silence to the gloomy forests which stretched away towards the long white storehouses of Aramba: "they conceal a cavern into which no creature can enter and five. The man who should venture one step beyond the entrance would be seen no more. If a dog goes in, or a bird, or even a serpent, it will surely die. There is no bottom to that cave, and none can say whither it leads. Formerly people went to cut wood in the neighbourhood. A man lost his way, and was unheard of for months.

His friends believed him dead. They mourned for him, and scratched their temples, and he was forgotten. Suddenly he re-appeared, reduced to a skeleton, and looking like a ghost. They brought him to me to know what should be done with him. He had lived like the _gureza_ upon wild berries, and when I asked him what he had seen, he replied that he had seen the devil. Woti is a bad place, and the forests take fire, and all my subjects fear to go thither."

A catastrophe of this nature had recently taken place; and a quant.i.ty of fuel stored for the royal kitchen having been destroyed, it was the king's present object to ascertain the extent of damage sustained. Ayto Wolda Hana exerted his cracked voice in loud complaints of others, and so that himself escaped the much-dreaded censure, the old man evidently cared not much who suffered. Herein he was so far successful, that the sub-governor of the district was fined in the amount of one hundred dollars, about ten times the value of property destroyed, and every male inhabitant of the neighbourhood received sentence of imprisonment.

The cold summit of Kondie is clothed with heather and with the _jibera_, a lofty species of _lobelia_, which attains the height of fifteen or twenty feet. As it is believed to exert a prejudicial effect upon the pa.s.ser by, and often to cause death, the royal cortege waged active war against every plant by the way-side--His Majesty in person sustaining a part in hostilities designed to counteract the evil influence. Bands of warriors charging on horseback, delivered their spears simultaneously, and the doomed tree, if not cut over, was at least transfixed by a score of shafts. Excelling in skill, the monarch betted heavily upon every throw, and rarely did he lose. At forty yards the lance left his hand with unerring precision, and perforating the soft pulpy stem immediately below the bushy head, often pa.s.sed quite through, to fall on the other side.

"Where did the commander learn to throw a spear?" he suddenly exclaimed in merry mood, elevating his voice, and looking round towards the spot on which I was taking share in the proceedings. "Now, _Gaita_," he continued, as I approached, "I will give you a mule if you hit that tree, and if you do not, by the death of Woosen Suggud you shall forfeit your best rifle." Frequent practice having rendered me tolerably expert, my first lance fortunately pa.s.sed through the stem, and the second threw its crown upon the ground. His Majesty was obviously satisfied; but whilst the mule completely escaped his treacherous recollection, my "best rifle," alas! had been already doomed to change hands. It remained but a brief period in those of the lawful proprietor, and Ayto Habti, the master armourer, was to be seen the very next morning engraving on the barrel with punch and hammer certain ominous Amharic characters, signifying, "Sahela Sela.s.sie, who is the Negoos of Shoa, Efat, and the Galla."

Hunting down the partridge with dogs occupied the residue of the day.

Parties stationed themselves at intervals along the heather-grown slopes of the hills, where the bird abounds, and by dint of unceasing persecution kept the victim selected so perpetually on the wing, that after three or four long flights it was unable to rise again. Many were thus killed with sticks, or taken alive; but wherever His Majesty was forthcoming, he rested a long double-barrelled fowling piece over the shoulder of an attendant to insure steady aim--and the wearied quarry, believing itself safe in a bush, was suddenly blown to atoms.

Northern Abyssinia was now in a more disturbed state than ever; and numerous youths who had attempted to proceed to Gondar for the purpose of being ordained, had been compelled to abandon the journey, and return to Ankober. They brought tidings of an engagement between Ras Ali and Dedjasmach Oubie [see Note 1], which had been fought at Salem Okko, in the vicinity of Debra Tabor. The Ras being personally opposed to his rebel va.s.sal, was believed to have fallen early in the day. His rumoured death proving the signal for disorder and retreat, the camp was left in possession of the enemy, who consigned it to the flames, under the conviction that victory was theirs. But the leader had merely fled; and as the evening closed, his partisans, recovering from their panic, rallied, and fell with irresistible fury on the victors, who were little prepared for further hostilities, and the execrated tyrant Oubie, who carries with him the curses of his oppressed subjects, was, with his two sons, made prisoner.

Abba Salama, the Abuna, who is equally respected by all parties, was in the camp of the vanquished, but the holy man found an honourable asylum.

The spiritual despotism exercised by the primate from the first moment of his arrival in Abyssinia calls vividly to mind the period when the mandates of the pope were as implicitly obeyed, and his ghostly influence similarly dreaded, by the potentates of Europe; and independently of his spiritual power, which exalts him greatly above the most potent of the rulers of the land, his holiness is far from being contemptible as a temporal prince. The hundred and eighth successor to Saint Mark the Evangelist, reclining in his humble divan within the Coptic quarters at Grand-Cairo, surrounded by the dignity of coffee and pipes, would ill recognise his juvenile delegate at Gondar, where both these luxuries are held in abomination, could he behold him in the enjoyment of revenues many times in excess of his own--ordaining a thousand priests in a single day--and receiving the homage of all the proud actors engaged in the troubled drama of Abyssinian politics.

War had not visited Shoa; but the peace of many a family was yet destined to be disturbed by an arbitrary proceeding on the part of the crown. As the period of the king's departure from the capital drew nigh, many of the royal slaves who had voluntarily sold their liberty during the great famine of Saint Luke, [each year is in Abyssinia dedicated to one of the four Evangelists, according to the order of the Gospels,] casting themselves at the footstool of the throne, implored the restoration of their freedom in consideration of many long years of servitude. Enraged at what he termed the ingrat.i.tude of those whom he had fed when they must otherwise have starved, His Majesty, labouring under a strange infatuation, bade them "begone," and, in utter defiance of all the existing laws of the realm, that day promulgated an edict through the royal herald, that from thenceforth the progeny of all his numerous slaves, whether the offspring of free fathers or of free mothers, should be accounted his sole property, and forthwith render themselves to be enrolled by his drivers, in order to have their daily task allotted.

The capital was in a state of wild confusion and consternation. Weeping and wailing resounded in every hut, and no Abyssinian possessed sufficient courage to oppose the dictates of the angry despot. The presence of the British Emba.s.sy now proved of that salutary and commanding influence which humanity and civilisation must ever exert over barbarity and savage ignorance. Deeming the opportunity imperative, and considering the chance of success to be well worth the risk of a misunderstanding with the court, I earnestly entreated His Majesty to reflect, "that the name of Sahela Sela.s.sie, hitherto so beloved of all, would lose a portion of its l.u.s.tre and brightness. That all men are mortal. That kings do not reign for ever; and that the groans of his unhappy subjects, the props of his power and kingdom, who had heretofore lived in the enjoyment of the liberty to which they were born, but were now pining heart-broken in the thraldom of slavery, would add little to the comfort of the close of his ill.u.s.trious life."

My pet.i.tion was accompanied by the enquiry, "how I should be able to represent his proceedings to the Government by which I had been sent?"

and it was attended with the most satisfactory results. The king, who had still the fear of G.o.d before his eyes, avowed, "that the act had proceeded in a hurried moment of wrath, and that his European children had made him thoroughly sensible of its injustice and cruelty." The offensive proclamation was on the instant annulled; and four thousand seven hundred unfortunate victims to its promulgation, released from the house of bondage, and from the degrading shackles of slavery, after they had renounced all hope of redemption, returned to their homes and to their families, blessing as they went the name of "the white men."

Note 1. Dedjasmach, often contracted to Dedjach, signifies "the warrior of the door," and is the t.i.tle of governors under the puppet emperor of Ethiopia. As in the Ottoman empire the Pacha is distinguished by the number of his tails, so is the Dedjasmach by the number of his kettle-drums. He is ent.i.tled to one for each province under his control, and loses no opportunity of finding his account in the troubled waters by a.s.serting independence.

Volume 3, Chapter x.x.xV.

SLAVERY AND THE SLAVE-TRADE IN SHOA.

The annals of slavery point clearly to war as the princ.i.p.al cause of the monstrous crime of selling our fellow-creatures like cattle in the market. One nation having taken from another a greater number of captives than could be exchanged on equal terms, it is easy to comprehend how the victors, finding the maintenance of their prisoners expensive and inconvenient, first compelled them to work for their daily bread. Emerged from the limited wants of savage life, man next saw productions of art, which he eagerly coveted; and lacking habits of industry by which to earn them for himself, he compelled all whom his superiority enabled him to bring under subjection to pa.s.s their lives in labouring for his advantage.

In Africa especially, where the human pa.s.sions are unbridled, and man emulates the ferocity of the beast of prey, war proves a never-drying spring of misery and bondage, and slavery is the inevitable lot of all who are not slain on the battlefield, or ma.s.sacred in the sacking of towns and villages. The weak and unsuccessful warrior, who sues for mercy beneath the uplifted spear of his opponent, purchases existence at the expense of liberty; and in time of famine the freeman often becomes a voluntary slave, in order to avoid the greater calamity of inevitable starvation. By the philosophic and reflecting mind death would doubtless be esteemed the lighter evil of the two, but the untutored savage, fainting with hunger, thinks with Esau of old, "Behold, I am at the point to die--what profit shall this birthright do to me?"