The Dumpling_ A Seasonal Guide Part 8

Boiled Fish with Okra and Dumplings (Caribbean) SERVES 4 ( 4 (MAKES 12 12 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

The flavors of Caribbean cooking are apparent in this simply prepared seafood dish. The dumplings, purposely dense and chewy, are smothered in a spicy tomato sauce with chunks of okra and green pepper and a generous helping of fish. Cod, snapper, and grouper are commonly used, but alarmingly, all of these fish have been depleted to dangerously low levels. You can use any firm white-fleshed fish that is more abundant, whole or cut into fillets.

For the Dumplings2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour, plus some extra for dusting teaspoon saltFor the Fish3 tablespoons grapeseed or other neutral oil1 small yellow onion, chopped coa.r.s.e3 garlic cloves, sliced thin1 large green bell pepper, cored and chopped coa.r.s.e1 small Scotch bonnet chile,* cored and quartered (or left whole if you want a less spicy sauce) cored and quartered (or left whole if you want a less spicy sauce)5 okra pods, trimmed of their tops and cut into -inch rounds (about 1 cup)1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves teaspoon salt1 tablespoons tomato paste4 firm white-fleshed fish fillets such as tilapia (about 1 pound)1 scallion, trimmed and sliced into thin rings1 lime, cut in halfEquipmentLarge, wide pot or skillet with a coverLarge, wide bowl to hold the cooked dumplings 1. MAKE THE DOUGH MAKE THE DOUGH: Place 1 cups of the flour in a large bowl and keep the remaining cup handy. Add the teaspoon salt and 1 cup water and mix with a fork until all the liquid has been absorbed. Work the dough with your hands until you have one manageable ball. If the dough is wet and sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time, until it no longer sticks to your fingers. Place 1 cups of the flour in a large bowl and keep the remaining cup handy. Add the teaspoon salt and 1 cup water and mix with a fork until all the liquid has been absorbed. Work the dough with your hands until you have one manageable ball. If the dough is wet and sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time, until it no longer sticks to your fingers.

2. Place the dough on a floured surface and knead for 3 to 4 minutes. Sprinkle with flour if it gets a little sticky. The dough will be soft and stretchy. Return the dough to the bowl, cover, and let it rest for 30 minutes. Place the dough on a floured surface and knead for 3 to 4 minutes. Sprinkle with flour if it gets a little sticky. The dough will be soft and stretchy. Return the dough to the bowl, cover, and let it rest for 30 minutes.

3. MAKE AND COOK THE DUMPLINGS MAKE AND COOK THE DUMPLINGS: Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour.

4. Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface and divide into 12 equal pieces. Roll 1 piece into a 5-inch rope, flatten it with your fingers into a bar about inch thick, and place on the prepared tray. Repeat with the remaining pieces of dough. Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface and divide into 12 equal pieces. Roll 1 piece into a 5-inch rope, flatten it with your fingers into a bar about inch thick, and place on the prepared tray. Repeat with the remaining pieces of dough.

5. Fill a medium pot halfway with water and bring to a boil over high heat. Carefully drop the dough bars, a few at a time, into the water and stir. Cook until all of them are floating, about 2 minutes, then cook for 5 minutes longer. Remove with a slotted spoon, place in the bowl with a ladle of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking, and keep warm. Fill a medium pot halfway with water and bring to a boil over high heat. Carefully drop the dough bars, a few at a time, into the water and stir. Cook until all of them are floating, about 2 minutes, then cook for 5 minutes longer. Remove with a slotted spoon, place in the bowl with a ladle of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking, and keep warm.

6. COOK THE FISH COOK THE FISH: Heat the oil in the large pot over high heat. Add the onion and garlic and stir until the onion just begins to soften, about 2 minutes. Mix in the bell pepper and chile and cook until the onion and peppers are lightly browned, about 3 minutes. Add the okra, thyme, teaspoon salt, the tomato paste, and 1 cup water, stir, and bring to a boil. Heat the oil in the large pot over high heat. Add the onion and garlic and stir until the onion just begins to soften, about 2 minutes. Mix in the bell pepper and chile and cook until the onion and peppers are lightly browned, about 3 minutes. Add the okra, thyme, teaspoon salt, the tomato paste, and 1 cup water, stir, and bring to a boil.

7. Clear some s.p.a.ce in the pot by moving the vegetables to the side. Arrange the fish in the center of the pan and spoon some of the sauce and vegetables on top. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 2 minutes. Gently turn the fish pieces over and simmer uncovered until they are cooked through, about 1 minute. Drain the dumplings, add them to the fish, shake the pan to coat the dumplings, cook for 1 minute longer, and serve. Clear some s.p.a.ce in the pot by moving the vegetables to the side. Arrange the fish in the center of the pan and spoon some of the sauce and vegetables on top. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 2 minutes. Gently turn the fish pieces over and simmer uncovered until they are cooked through, about 1 minute. Drain the dumplings, add them to the fish, shake the pan to coat the dumplings, cook for 1 minute longer, and serve.

Slippery Rice b.a.l.l.s in Cabbage-Radish Soup Tang Yuan (China) (China) SERVES 4 ( 4 (MAKES ABOUT 20 20 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

Tang yuan, or "soup b.a.l.l.s," are very basic rice flour dumplings. They have a clean, light flavor, a chewy and almost bouncy texture, and a silky, slippery feel. Variations of these small dumplings are found throughout Asia, both savory and sweet, and a couple of others are featured in this book ( or "soup b.a.l.l.s," are very basic rice flour dumplings. They have a clean, light flavor, a chewy and almost bouncy texture, and a silky, slippery feel. Variations of these small dumplings are found throughout Asia, both savory and sweet, and a couple of others are featured in this book (Guinataan at Bilo-Bilo in December and in December and Onde-Onde Onde-Onde in March). The broth used in this recipe is delicious on its own and can also be used with other Chinese soup dumplings, such as in March). The broth used in this recipe is delicious on its own and can also be used with other Chinese soup dumplings, such as Hung You Chao Shou Hung You Chao Shou (August). (August).

For the Soup4 small dried s.h.i.+take or black mushrooms, soaked in 1 cup hot water for 30 minutes pound lean boneless pork b.u.t.t, cut into 8 equal pieces6 to 8 small or medium dried shrimp4 large napa cabbage leaves, sliced into 1-inch ribbons1 small daikon radish, peeled and coa.r.s.ely grated, or 1 medium carrot, sliced into thin rounds1 link Chinese pork sausage (la chang) (la chang), cut diagonally into thin slices1 teaspoon saltFor the Dumplings1 cups sweet (glutinous) rice flour, preferably from China or Thailand, plus some extra for dusting cup warm water 1. MAKE THE SOUP MAKE THE SOUP: Fish out the soaked mushrooms with your fingers, squeezing excess liquid back into the bowl. Remove and discard the stems and set the mushroom caps aside. Strain the soaking liquid. Fish out the soaked mushrooms with your fingers, squeezing excess liquid back into the bowl. Remove and discard the stems and set the mushroom caps aside. Strain the soaking liquid.

2. Place the pork, dried shrimp, mushrooms, and their soaking liquid in a medium pot. Pour in 5 cups water and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 30 minutes. Skim the froth off the surface with a spoon. Place the pork, dried shrimp, mushrooms, and their soaking liquid in a medium pot. Pour in 5 cups water and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 30 minutes. Skim the froth off the surface with a spoon.

3. MAKE THE DOUGH MAKE THE DOUGH: While the soup is simmering, place 1 cup of the rice flour in a medium bowl and keep the remaining cup handy. Pour in the warm water and mix until all the liquid has been absorbed. Knead the dough in the bowl for a minute. This dough needs to be firm enough to hold its shape when rolled into b.a.l.l.s. If it is too soft or sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time. While the soup is simmering, place 1 cup of the rice flour in a medium bowl and keep the remaining cup handy. Pour in the warm water and mix until all the liquid has been absorbed. Knead the dough in the bowl for a minute. This dough needs to be firm enough to hold its shape when rolled into b.a.l.l.s. If it is too soft or sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time.

4. Once the soup has simmered for 30 minutes, mix in the cabbage, daikon, sausage, and salt, cover, and simmer for 10 minutes longer. Reduce the heat to very, very low to keep the soup hot until it's time to add the dumplings. Once the soup has simmered for 30 minutes, mix in the cabbage, daikon, sausage, and salt, cover, and simmer for 10 minutes longer. Reduce the heat to very, very low to keep the soup hot until it's time to add the dumplings.

5. MAKE AND COOK THE DUMPLINGS MAKE AND COOK THE DUMPLINGS: Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little rice flour. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little rice flour.

6. Fill a medium pot halfway with salted water and bring it to a boil over high heat. Fill a medium pot halfway with salted water and bring it to a boil over high heat.

7. As the water comes to a boil, pinch off a small piece of dough and roll it into a ball about 1 inch around. Dust with a little rice flour and place on the prepared tray. Repeat with the remaining dough. As the water comes to a boil, pinch off a small piece of dough and roll it into a ball about 1 inch around. Dust with a little rice flour and place on the prepared tray. Repeat with the remaining dough.

8. Lower the heat under the boiling water for a gentle simmer. Carefully drop the dumplings, a few at a time, into the water. Cook until all of them are floating, about 2 minutes, then cook for 2 minutes longer. Lower the heat under the boiling water for a gentle simmer. Carefully drop the dumplings, a few at a time, into the water. Cook until all of them are floating, about 2 minutes, then cook for 2 minutes longer.

9. Remove the Remove the tang yuan tang yuan with a slotted spoon, place them in the hot soup, cover, steep for 3 minutes, and serve. with a slotted spoon, place them in the hot soup, cover, steep for 3 minutes, and serve.

Pounded Ca.s.sava Dumpling Fufu (West Africa) (West Africa) SERVES 4 ( 4 (MAKES 1 1 LARGE OR LARGE OR 4 4 SMALL DUMPLINGS SMALL DUMPLINGS).

Fufu is a family of pounded dumplings that are a staple throughout the central and western regions of Africa. Making is a family of pounded dumplings that are a staple throughout the central and western regions of Africa. Making fufu fufu the traditional way, communally and in big batches, requires hours of work akin to chopping wood. A starch (like yam, ca.s.sava, plantain, or a combination) is boiled and then pounded in a large mortar with a big flat-bottomed pestle until smooth and stretchy. the traditional way, communally and in big batches, requires hours of work akin to chopping wood. A starch (like yam, ca.s.sava, plantain, or a combination) is boiled and then pounded in a large mortar with a big flat-bottomed pestle until smooth and stretchy. Fufu Fufu is meant to be pinched off and then dipped into a hearty sauce, stew, or soup. is meant to be pinched off and then dipped into a hearty sauce, stew, or soup. Fufu Fufu made out of ca.s.sava has a very clean taste and can be quite soothing when paired with a bowl of spicy Groundnut Soup. made out of ca.s.sava has a very clean taste and can be quite soothing when paired with a bowl of spicy Groundnut Soup.

We've adapted the traditional method of pounding fufu fufu into a 15-minute effort. By grating the ca.s.sava before steaming, you eliminate a great portion of the pounding time. For a more tender, mildly fruity into a 15-minute effort. By grating the ca.s.sava before steaming, you eliminate a great portion of the pounding time. For a more tender, mildly fruity fufu, fufu, try the ca.s.sava and plantain version. try the ca.s.sava and plantain version.

For the Dumplings2 pounds ca.s.sava, prepared (see Glossary of Ingredients) and grated coa.r.s.eFor the Soup1 recipe Groundnut Soup (recipe follows)Equipment8- to 10-quart steamer pot24-inch square of muslinLarge, st.u.r.dy wooden bowl and large pestle or meat pounder for pounding the fufu fufu 1. Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Soak the muslin under running water, wring it out, then drape it inside the basket, creating a lining. Scoop the ca.s.sava into the lined basket and spread it out evenly. Place the basket in the pot, cover, reduce the heat to medium, and steam for 45 minutes. Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Soak the muslin under running water, wring it out, then drape it inside the basket, creating a lining. Scoop the ca.s.sava into the lined basket and spread it out evenly. Place the basket in the pot, cover, reduce the heat to medium, and steam for 45 minutes.

2. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket and place it on a folded kitchen towel. Using the muslin liner, lift the ca.s.sava out of the basket and turn it into the bowl. The bowl must be roomy enough for you to pound the ca.s.sava freely without spilling. Using the large pestle, begin to pound the ca.s.sava steadily. Continue pounding until the ca.s.sava is smooth (or mostly smooth), stretchy, and very sticky, about 10 minutes. If the Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket and place it on a folded kitchen towel. Using the muslin liner, lift the ca.s.sava out of the basket and turn it into the bowl. The bowl must be roomy enough for you to pound the ca.s.sava freely without spilling. Using the large pestle, begin to pound the ca.s.sava steadily. Continue pounding until the ca.s.sava is smooth (or mostly smooth), stretchy, and very sticky, about 10 minutes. If the fufu fufu is dry and too firm to pound effectively, add some warm water and resume pounding. is dry and too firm to pound effectively, add some warm water and resume pounding.

3. Wet your hands and shape the Wet your hands and shape the fufu fufu into a big ball or divide and shape it into 4 equal b.a.l.l.s and serve slightly warm or at room temperature with the Groundnut Soup. If making the into a big ball or divide and shape it into 4 equal b.a.l.l.s and serve slightly warm or at room temperature with the Groundnut Soup. If making the fufu fufu in advance, wrap the b.a.l.l.s in wax paper to prevent them from forming a skin and keep at room temperature for no more than 4 hours. in advance, wrap the b.a.l.l.s in wax paper to prevent them from forming a skin and keep at room temperature for no more than 4 hours.

Ca.s.sAVA AND PLANTAIN FUFU.

Add 1 coa.r.s.ely chopped green plantain to the ca.s.sava (for a fluffier and plain fufu fufu) or ripe plantain (for a gooier and fruitier fufu fufu) during the last 10 minutes of cooking. Continue with steps 2 and 3 and serve.

GROUNDNUT SOUP.

MAKES 3 QUARTS.

One 3- to 4-pound chicken, cut into serving pieces2 cups all-natural unsweetened peanut b.u.t.ter cup peanut oil or a neutral oil, such as grapeseed1 small yellow onion, chopped fine3 plum tomatoes, peeled (see Glossary of Ingredients) and chopped fine2 tablespoons tomato paste1 small Scotch bonnet chile,* cored, seeded, and chopped fine cored, seeded, and chopped fine1 small eggplant, peeled and chopped fine1 to 2 ounces fried or preserved (dried, smoked, or salted) white fish, shreddedSalt to taste 1. Place the chicken pieces in a large pot, pour in 9 cups water, and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 30 minutes. Skim the froth off the surface with a spoon. Place the chicken pieces in a large pot, pour in 9 cups water, and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 30 minutes. Skim the froth off the surface with a spoon.

2. Remove the chicken with a slotted spoon or tongs and place in a bowl to cool. Using your hands, pull off bite-sized pieces until all the chicken meat has been removed. Place back in the bowl and set aside. Discard the bones. Remove the chicken with a slotted spoon or tongs and place in a bowl to cool. Using your hands, pull off bite-sized pieces until all the chicken meat has been removed. Place back in the bowl and set aside. Discard the bones.

3. Thin out the peanut b.u.t.ter by mixing it with 1 cup of the simmering broth, then stir it into the broth. Thin out the peanut b.u.t.ter by mixing it with 1 cup of the simmering broth, then stir it into the broth.

4. Heat the oil in a medium pot over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft, about 4 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes, tomato paste, chile, and eggplant and cook until the tomatoes have broken apart, about 5 minutes. Add the tomato and eggplant mixture to the broth and simmer for 10 minutes. Stir in the chicken and the fish and cook for 10 minutes longer. Sprinkle with salt and serve with ca.s.sava Heat the oil in a medium pot over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft, about 4 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes, tomato paste, chile, and eggplant and cook until the tomatoes have broken apart, about 5 minutes. Add the tomato and eggplant mixture to the broth and simmer for 10 minutes. Stir in the chicken and the fish and cook for 10 minutes longer. Sprinkle with salt and serve with ca.s.sava fufu. fufu. Groundnut soup can be made in advance and kept in a tightly sealed container for up to 3 days. Groundnut soup can be made in advance and kept in a tightly sealed container for up to 3 days.

Mushroom-Asparagus Bread Dumplings in a Mushroom Sauce Schwammerl Knodel mit Spargel (Austria) (Austria) SERVES 6 6 TO TO 12 ( 12 (MAKES 2 2 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

These long, tender bread dumplings are chock-full of sauteed mushrooms and asparagus. This dumpling is fun to cut into when the stalks of asparagus are left whole and nestled into the dough, but you can just as easily chop the asparagus and mix it directly into the dough along with the mushrooms. This recipe can be fas.h.i.+oned into one very long dumpling or two more manageable dumplings, as we do here. Serve as a side to any meal that goes well with mushrooms or asparagus.

These dumplings are made using the Jelly-Roll Shape and then wrapped using the Candy-Wrapper Shape Using a Cloth.

For the Dough cup grapeseed or other neutral oil1 large yellow onion, chopped fine10 ounces whole white b.u.t.ton mushrooms, cut in half3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh oregano leaves6 cups -inch crustless white bread cubes (see Glossary of Ingredients) cup milk1 large egg, plus 2 large egg yolks1 teaspoons salt1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour, plus some extra for dustingFor the Filling16 thin asparagus spears, trimmed and blanched in boiling water for 3 minutes, then cooled under cold running waterFor the Sauce1 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter1 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour1 cups Beef Broth teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepperFor CookingUnsalted b.u.t.ter to coat the muslinEquipmentTwo 24-inch squares of muslin or white cotton napkins8- to 10-quart steamer pot 1. MAKE THE DOUGH MAKE THE DOUGH: Cook the mushrooms in 2 batches as follows. Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large skillet over high heat. Add half of the onion and stir until it just begins to soften, about 2 minutes. Add half of the mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mixture is golden brown, about 6 minutes. Scoop into a bowl and set aside. Wipe the skillet clean and heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil. Repeat the cooking steps with the remaining onion and mushrooms. Once the second batch of mushrooms is golden brown, return the first batch to the pan, add the oregano, and mix well. Scoop a third of the mushroom mixture back into the bowl and set aside. Keep the remaining two-thirds in the pan. Cook the mushrooms in 2 batches as follows. Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large skillet over high heat. Add half of the onion and stir until it just begins to soften, about 2 minutes. Add half of the mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mixture is golden brown, about 6 minutes. Scoop into a bowl and set aside. Wipe the skillet clean and heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil. Repeat the cooking steps with the remaining onion and mushrooms. Once the second batch of mushrooms is golden brown, return the first batch to the pan, add the oregano, and mix well. Scoop a third of the mushroom mixture back into the bowl and set aside. Keep the remaining two-thirds in the pan.

2. Place the bread cubes in a medium bowl and pour in the milk. Work the mixture together by squis.h.i.+ng it through your fingers until all the bread has been broken down into a pulp. Beat together the egg and the egg yolks. Add the egg and the 1 teaspoons salt to the bread mixture and stir vigorously until well mixed. Add the mushroom mixture from the pan and the 1 cup flour and work the paste into a soft dough. Cover and refrigerate for 20 minutes. Place the bread cubes in a medium bowl and pour in the milk. Work the mixture together by squis.h.i.+ng it through your fingers until all the bread has been broken down into a pulp. Beat together the egg and the egg yolks. Add the egg and the 1 teaspoons salt to the bread mixture and stir vigorously until well mixed. Add the mushroom mixture from the pan and the 1 cup flour and work the paste into a soft dough. Cover and refrigerate for 20 minutes.

3. a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS: Before a.s.sembling the Before a.s.sembling the schwammerl knodel mit spargel, schwammerl knodel mit spargel, review the Jelly-Roll Shape and the Candy-Wrapper Shape Using a Cloth. The Jelly-Roll Shape begins with a sheet of dough covered with a sweet or savory filling. Starting at one end, the dough and filling are rolled up into a solid log, which gives a characteristic swirl of filling throughout the body of the dumpling. The Candy-Wrapper Shape is a quick and easy way to wrap up a portion of dough or batter in a cloth or a leaf, creating or supporting the shape of a log. review the Jelly-Roll Shape and the Candy-Wrapper Shape Using a Cloth. The Jelly-Roll Shape begins with a sheet of dough covered with a sweet or savory filling. Starting at one end, the dough and filling are rolled up into a solid log, which gives a characteristic swirl of filling throughout the body of the dumpling. The Candy-Wrapper Shape is a quick and easy way to wrap up a portion of dough or batter in a cloth or a leaf, creating or supporting the shape of a log.

4. Soak both pieces of muslin under running water, wring them out, and set aside. Have ready the chilled dough, the asparagus, and a large plate. Soak both pieces of muslin under running water, wring them out, and set aside. Have ready the chilled dough, the asparagus, and a large plate.

5. Divide the dough in half and place one piece on a well-floured surface. Wet your hands and gently press it into a rectangle about 9 inches long (or about the length of the asparagus) and 7 inches wide. Arrange half of the asparagus in parallel lines on top of the dough, making sure they are s.p.a.ced evenly apart. Gently press down on each stalk until it has been pushed about halfway into the dough. Starting with one of the longer sides, roll up the dough, pinching the ends to seal as you go. Sprinkle with flour if it gets sticky. Pinch and press the far edge of the dough along the length of the loaf to seal. Divide the dough in half and place one piece on a well-floured surface. Wet your hands and gently press it into a rectangle about 9 inches long (or about the length of the asparagus) and 7 inches wide. Arrange half of the asparagus in parallel lines on top of the dough, making sure they are s.p.a.ced evenly apart. Gently press down on each stalk until it has been pushed about halfway into the dough. Starting with one of the longer sides, roll up the dough, pinching the ends to seal as you go. Sprinkle with flour if it gets sticky. Pinch and press the far edge of the dough along the length of the loaf to seal.

6. Spread one piece of muslin out on a flat surface and rub it generously with b.u.t.ter, leaving a narrow border on all sides. Place the loaf along one edge of the prepared muslin, seam side down. Roll up the loaf in the muslin. The muslin should be slightly baggy so that the loaf can swell while it cooks. Tie the two open ends, then tie some string around the body of the wrapped loaf to secure the seam. Repeat with the remaining dough, asparagus, and cloth. When both loaves have been wrapped and tied, place them on the plate, and refrigerate for at least 15 minutes. (You can also a.s.semble the dumplings in advance and keep them tightly wrapped in the refrigerator for up to 8 hours.) Spread one piece of muslin out on a flat surface and rub it generously with b.u.t.ter, leaving a narrow border on all sides. Place the loaf along one edge of the prepared muslin, seam side down. Roll up the loaf in the muslin. The muslin should be slightly baggy so that the loaf can swell while it cooks. Tie the two open ends, then tie some string around the body of the wrapped loaf to secure the seam. Repeat with the remaining dough, asparagus, and cloth. When both loaves have been wrapped and tied, place them on the plate, and refrigerate for at least 15 minutes. (You can also a.s.semble the dumplings in advance and keep them tightly wrapped in the refrigerator for up to 8 hours.) 7. STEAM THE DUMPLINGS STEAM THE DUMPLINGS: Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Arrange the loaves in the basket, then place the basket in the pot. Cover, reduce the heat to medium, and steam for 1 hour. Check the water level halfway through cooking and replenish with boiling water as needed. Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Arrange the loaves in the basket, then place the basket in the pot. Cover, reduce the heat to medium, and steam for 1 hour. Check the water level halfway through cooking and replenish with boiling water as needed.

8. MAKE THE SAUCE MAKE THE SAUCE: Shortly before the dumplings have finished cooking, melt the b.u.t.ter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the 1 tablespoons flour and stir until the mixture is well browned, about 3 minutes. Pour in the broth, stirring constantly, until combined. Once the sauce begins to simmer, 2 to 3 minutes, add the teaspoon salt, the pepper, and the remaining cooked mushrooms to the sauce and simmer for 3 minutes longer. Shortly before the dumplings have finished cooking, melt the b.u.t.ter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the 1 tablespoons flour and stir until the mixture is well browned, about 3 minutes. Pour in the broth, stirring constantly, until combined. Once the sauce begins to simmer, 2 to 3 minutes, add the teaspoon salt, the pepper, and the remaining cooked mushrooms to the sauce and simmer for 3 minutes longer.

9. Remove the steamer pot from the heat. Carefully lift the Remove the steamer pot from the heat. Carefully lift the schwammerl knodel mit spargel schwammerl knodel mit spargel out of the basket, place them on a folded kitchen towel, and allow them to cool slightly. Remove the strings, unwrap, slice, and serve with the mushroom sauce poured over the top. out of the basket, place them on a folded kitchen towel, and allow them to cool slightly. Remove the strings, unwrap, slice, and serve with the mushroom sauce poured over the top. Schwammerl knodel mit spargel Schwammerl knodel mit spargel can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. Reheat using the Steamer Plate Setup (Tips) or by frying the slices in a little b.u.t.ter or oil. can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. Reheat using the Steamer Plate Setup (Tips) or by frying the slices in a little b.u.t.ter or oil.

Coconut and Rice Columns with Chickpea Curry Puttu Kadala (India) (India) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 8 ( 8 (MAKES 2 2 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

To make this breakfast dumpling in its traditional pillar shape, you need a puttu puttu steamer, available at most Indian markets. This metal steamer, available at most Indian markets. This metal puttu puttu maker resembles a small saucepan with a chimneylike top. You a.s.semble this dumpling by packing layers of moist ground rice and freshly grated coconut loosely inside the mold. As the steam builds up, it makes its way through the rice and coconut layers, cooking everything flawlessly. This dumpling is delicate and tender and is typically served smothered in a spicy chickpea stew. maker resembles a small saucepan with a chimneylike top. You a.s.semble this dumpling by packing layers of moist ground rice and freshly grated coconut loosely inside the mold. As the steam builds up, it makes its way through the rice and coconut layers, cooking everything flawlessly. This dumpling is delicate and tender and is typically served smothered in a spicy chickpea stew.

For the Stew1 cups dried chickpeas, preferably black chickpeas (kala chana), soaked in plenty of water for 6 to 8 hours or 3 cups canned chickpeas, drained and rinsed2 teaspoons ground turmeric2 tablespoons ghee (Glossary of Ingredients) or a neutral oil, such as grapeseed1 teaspoon black or brown mustard seeds5 fresh curry leaves1 medium yellow onion, cut in half and sliced thin2 garlic cloves, chopped very fine1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger or teaspoon ground1 to 2 small fresh green or red chiles, such as lal mirch, lal mirch, seeded and chopped fine seeded and chopped fine cup Coconut Curry Masala (recipe follows) or 2 tablespoons garam masala mixed with 2 tablespoons unsweetened dried grated coconut teaspoon sugar2 teaspoons salt1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepperFor the Dumplings1 cups white basmati or other long-grain rice, ground fine in a clean spice or coffee grinder, or 1 cups preground rice (rice sooji sooji, rice rava rava, or idli rava idli rava)1 teaspoon salt cup fresh coconut milk (see Glossary of Ingredients) or 1 1/3 cup canned coconut milk mixed with 3 tablespoons water cup canned coconut milk mixed with 3 tablespoons water1 cup freshly grated coconut (see Glossary of Ingredients) or 1 cup frozen grated coconut, thawedEquipmentPuttu steamer with cylinder mold (a standard steamer will hold about 1 cups) steamer with cylinder mold (a standard steamer will hold about 1 cups) 1. MAKE THE SAUCE MAKE THE SAUCE: (If using canned chickpeas, place them in a bowl and set aside. Stir the turmeric into 5 cups of water and set aside.) Drain the chickpeas and place in a small pot. Add the turmeric and 5 cups water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer until the chickpeas are just tender, 1 to 1 hours. Remove from the heat. Reserve the cooking liquid by draining the chickpeas over a bowl, then set both the chickpeas and the cooking liquid aside. (If using canned chickpeas, place them in a bowl and set aside. Stir the turmeric into 5 cups of water and set aside.) Drain the chickpeas and place in a small pot. Add the turmeric and 5 cups water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer until the chickpeas are just tender, 1 to 1 hours. Remove from the heat. Reserve the cooking liquid by draining the chickpeas over a bowl, then set both the chickpeas and the cooking liquid aside.

2. Melt the ghee in a medium pot over medium heat. Stir in the mustard seeds and curry leaves and cook for 1 minute. Add the onion, garlic, ginger, and chile and stir frequently until the onion is soft, about 4 minutes. Mix in the Coconut Curry Masala and stir frequently until the onion is golden brown, about 2 minutes longer. Stir in the cooked chickpeas, the sugar, the 2 teaspoons salt, and the pepper. Immediately pour in just enough of the reserved cooking liquid (or turmeric water) to cover the chickpeas. If there is not enough cooking liquid, use water. Cover and simmer until the chickpeas are tender, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside. (You can make the sauce in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed container for up to 3 days.) Melt the ghee in a medium pot over medium heat. Stir in the mustard seeds and curry leaves and cook for 1 minute. Add the onion, garlic, ginger, and chile and stir frequently until the onion is soft, about 4 minutes. Mix in the Coconut Curry Masala and stir frequently until the onion is golden brown, about 2 minutes longer. Stir in the cooked chickpeas, the sugar, the 2 teaspoons salt, and the pepper. Immediately pour in just enough of the reserved cooking liquid (or turmeric water) to cover the chickpeas. If there is not enough cooking liquid, use water. Cover and simmer until the chickpeas are tender, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside. (You can make the sauce in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed container for up to 3 days.) 3. MAKE AND STEAM THE DUMPLINGS MAKE AND STEAM THE DUMPLINGS: Combine the ground rice and the 1 teaspoon salt in a medium mixing bowl. Stir in just enough coconut milk to make the ground rice moist enough to form a loose clump when you squeeze it. This is not a dough but more of a gritty, loose mixture. Combine the ground rice and the 1 teaspoon salt in a medium mixing bowl. Stir in just enough coconut milk to make the ground rice moist enough to form a loose clump when you squeeze it. This is not a dough but more of a gritty, loose mixture.

4. Remove the cylinder mold from the Remove the cylinder mold from the puttu puttu steamer, fill the steamer, fill the puttu puttu pot halfway with water, and bring to a boil over high heat. pot halfway with water, and bring to a boil over high heat.

5. Make sure the bottom end of the mold has its steaming plate in place. Fill the mold with 1 heaping tablespoon of coconut, followed by 3 heaping tablespoons of the rice mixture. Tap the mold gently to settle the layers. Continue with another layer of coconut, then the rice mixture, then a final layer of coconut. You will have used half of the coconut and half of the rice mixture. Place the cover on the top of the mold and insert the mold into the pot. Reduce the heat to medium and steam for 10 to 12 minutes. Steam will start vigorously streaming out the top of the mold when the dumpling has cooked through. Make sure the bottom end of the mold has its steaming plate in place. Fill the mold with 1 heaping tablespoon of coconut, followed by 3 heaping tablespoons of the rice mixture. Tap the mold gently to settle the layers. Continue with another layer of coconut, then the rice mixture, then a final layer of coconut. You will have used half of the coconut and half of the rice mixture. Place the cover on the top of the mold and insert the mold into the pot. Reduce the heat to medium and steam for 10 to 12 minutes. Steam will start vigorously streaming out the top of the mold when the dumpling has cooked through.

6. Remove the pot from the heat. Using pot holders, remove the mold from the pot, lay it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the Remove the pot from the heat. Using pot holders, remove the mold from the pot, lay it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the puttu puttu to cool slightly. Lift the cover off the mold and use the end of a wooden spoon to push the steaming plate, and the to cool slightly. Lift the cover off the mold and use the end of a wooden spoon to push the steaming plate, and the puttu puttu along with it, up through the mold and onto a serving plate. Cover and keep warm. a.s.semble and steam the second along with it, up through the mold and onto a serving plate. Cover and keep warm. a.s.semble and steam the second puttu. puttu.

7. While the second While the second puttu puttu is steaming, reheat the sauce. Once the second is steaming, reheat the sauce. Once the second puttu puttu has been cooked and placed on the plate, spoon the sauce over both and serve. has been cooked and placed on the plate, spoon the sauce over both and serve.

COCONUT CURRY MASALA.

MAKES ABOUT CUP CUP.

2/3 cup freshly grated and dried coconut (see Glossary of Ingredients) or unsweetened dried grated coconut cup freshly grated and dried coconut (see Glossary of Ingredients) or unsweetened dried grated coconut2 tablespoons coriander seeds2 tablespoons peeled black gram (urad dal)1 teaspoon c.u.min seeds1 teaspoon fennel seeds1 teaspoon fenugreek seeds1 teaspoon black peppercorns1 to 2 small dried red chiles10 fresh curry leavesOne 1-inch cinnamon stick4 whole clovesEquipmentClean spice or coffee grinder 1. Heat a large skillet over medium heat and add all the ingredients. Stir continuously until the mixture is golden brown, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat, place in a bowl, and set aside to cool. Heat a large skillet over medium heat and add all the ingredients. Stir continuously until the mixture is golden brown, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat, place in a bowl, and set aside to cool.

2. Pulse the mixture in batches in the spice grinder until it is a coa.r.s.e powder. Measure out what you need for your recipe and keep the rest in a tightly sealed gla.s.s container in the refrigerator for up to 3 months. Pulse the mixture in batches in the spice grinder until it is a coa.r.s.e powder. Measure out what you need for your recipe and keep the rest in a tightly sealed gla.s.s container in the refrigerator for up to 3 months.

Small Pork Buns Zhu Rou Baozi (China) (China) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 8 ( 8 (MAKES ABOUT 24 24 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

Zhu rou baozi may be the best-known Chinese dumpling. Made out of the same yeast dough as may be the best-known Chinese dumpling. Made out of the same yeast dough as Mantou Mantou (January), (January), Xiang Gu Baozi Xiang Gu Baozi (recipe follows), and (recipe follows), and Nuo Mi Juan Nuo Mi Juan (February), these steamed dumplings are a type of supremely soft and perfectly seasoned pork sandwich. These smaller versions are the most popular: one is a snack, while two or three make a light meal. (February), these steamed dumplings are a type of supremely soft and perfectly seasoned pork sandwich. These smaller versions are the most popular: one is a snack, while two or three make a light meal.

These dumplings are made using the Pinched-Top Fold.

For the Filling pound boneless pork loin, chopped fine, or freshly ground pork1 large carrot, finely grated2 scallions, sliced into very thin rings2 teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger or teaspoon ground1 teaspoon cornstarch teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground white pepper teaspoon sugar2 tablespoons grapeseed or other neutral oil1 tablespoons soy sauceFor the Dough1 recipe Mantou Mantou (Steamed Bread Rolls) dough, preferably made no more than 2 hours in advance (Steamed Bread Rolls) dough, preferably made no more than 2 hours in advanceUnbleached all-purpose flour for dustingFor CookingSoft lettuce leaves, such as Boston, to line the steamer basketEquipment2-inch round cookie cutter8- to 10-quart steamer pot 1. MAKE THE FILLING MAKE THE FILLING: Combine all the filling ingredients in a medium bowl. Cover and refrigerate for at least 20 minutes. (You can make the filling in advance and keep it tightly covered in the refrigerator for up to 1 day.) Combine all the filling ingredients in a medium bowl. Cover and refrigerate for at least 20 minutes. (You can make the filling in advance and keep it tightly covered in the refrigerator for up to 1 day.) 2. a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS: Before a.s.sembling the Before a.s.sembling the zhu rou baozi, zhu rou baozi, review the Pinched-Top Fold, which produces natural pleats when you simply gather up the sides and pinch off the top. review the Pinched-Top Fold, which produces natural pleats when you simply gather up the sides and pinch off the top.

3. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour. Also have ready the dough and the filling. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour. Also have ready the dough and the filling.

4. Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it in half, and set one piece aside under a kitchen towel. Shape the remaining piece into a ball, then roll it out until it's about Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it in half, and set one piece aside under a kitchen towel. Shape the remaining piece into a ball, then roll it out until it's about 1 1/8 inch thick. Sprinkle with flour if it gets sticky. inch thick. Sprinkle with flour if it gets sticky.

5. Using the cookie cutter, cut out as many rounds as you can, usually 10 to 12. Collect the sc.r.a.ps from around the rounds and put them aside under a damp kitchen towel for later use. Using the cookie cutter, cut out as many rounds as you can, usually 10 to 12. Collect the sc.r.a.ps from around the rounds and put them aside under a damp kitchen towel for later use.

6. Lay flat 1 to 5 dough rounds. Brush each round with a very thin coating of water to make it sticky enough to seal. Place a rounded teaspoon of filling in the center of each round. Gather up the sides of the round, joining the edges to form a casually pleated top. Pinch and squeeze the gathered dough at the top of the dumpling to seal. Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal. There is usually a little nub of the dough at the top of the dumplings a.s.sembled using the Pinched-Top Fold that you can twist off for a neater look. Place the a.s.sembled dumplings in a single layer on the prepared tray and keep them covered with a kitchen towel while you work. Once you have a.s.sembled the first batch of dumplings, continue with the remaining dough and filling. Combine all the dough sc.r.a.ps, knead them into a ball, roll it out, cut out as many rounds as you can, and fill and fold those too. Allow the dumplings to rise at room temperature on the tray for 30 to 45 minutes before steaming. Lay flat 1 to 5 dough rounds. Brush each round with a very thin coating of water to make it sticky enough to seal. Place a rounded teaspoon of filling in the center of each round. Gather up the sides of the round, joining the edges to form a casually pleated top. Pinch and squeeze the gathered dough at the top of the dumpling to seal. Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal. There is usually a little nub of the dough at the top of the dumplings a.s.sembled using the Pinched-Top Fold that you can twist off for a neater look. Place the a.s.sembled dumplings in a single layer on the prepared tray and keep them covered with a kitchen towel while you work. Once you have a.s.sembled the first batch of dumplings, continue with the remaining dough and filling. Combine all the dough sc.r.a.ps, knead them into a ball, roll it out, cut out as many rounds as you can, and fill and fold those too. Allow the dumplings to rise at room temperature on the tray for 30 to 45 minutes before steaming.

7. STEAM THE DUMPLINGS STEAM THE DUMPLINGS: Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Line the basket with the lettuce leaves. Gently arrange as many dumplings as you can, s.p.a.cing them about inch apart, on top of the leaves. Place the basket in the pot, cover, and steam on high heat for 20 minutes. Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Line the basket with the lettuce leaves. Gently arrange as many dumplings as you can, s.p.a.cing them about inch apart, on top of the leaves. Place the basket in the pot, cover, and steam on high heat for 20 minutes.

8. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket, place it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket, place it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the zhu rou baozi zhu rou baozi to cool slightly. Using a spoon or a small spatula, move them to a plate and serve. Cook any remaining to cool slightly. Using a spoon or a small spatula, move them to a plate and serve. Cook any remaining zhu rou baozi. zhu rou baozi. These are best eaten hot but are also good at room temperature. These are best eaten hot but are also good at room temperature. Zhu rou baozi Zhu rou baozi can be refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 6 months (see Tips). Reheat them in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (Tips). If reheating frozen can be refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 6 months (see Tips). Reheat them in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (Tips). If reheating frozen zhu rou baozi zhu rou baozi, allow them to thaw before steaming.

Small Mushroom Buns Xiang Gu Baozi (China) (China) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 8 ( 8 (MAKES ABOUT 24 24 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

The intensely flavored filling for these steamed buns can be made from several different types of dried mushrooms. The thin, dense wood ear mushrooms are excellent, but they must be chopped very fine. You can use dried maitake mushrooms if you can't find wood ear mushrooms, or you can just add more dried s.h.i.+take. You can also make the lighter, fresh mushroom variation that follows. Xiang gu baozi Xiang gu baozi are a terrific snack, light breakfast, lunch, dinner, or appetizer. are a terrific snack, light breakfast, lunch, dinner, or appetizer.

These dumplings are made using the Pinched-Top Fold.

For the Filling8 large dried s.h.i.+take or black mushrooms2 ounces dried wood ear mushrooms or dried maitake, soaked with the s.h.i.+take mushrooms in 2 cups hot water for 30 minutes1 tablespoon soy sauce 1 teaspoon cornstarch teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground white pepper teaspoon sugar2 tablespoons grapeseed or other neutral oil2 teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger or teaspoon ground1 small carrot, finely grated cup finely chopped fresh garlic chives or cilantro1 scallion, sliced into thin ringsFor the Dough1 recipe Mantou Mantou (Steamed Bread Rolls) dough, preferably made no more than 2 hours in advance (Steamed Bread Rolls) dough, preferably made no more than 2 hours in advanceUnbleached all-purpose flour for dustingFor CookingSoft lettuce leaves, such as Boston, to line the steamer basketEquipment2-inch round cookie cutter8- to 10-quart steamer pot 1. MAKE THE FILLING MAKE THE FILLING: Fish out the soaked mushrooms with your fingers, squeezing the excess liquid back into the bowl. Set the liquid aside. Remove and discard the stems and finely chop the mushroom caps. Strain and pour 1 cup of the soaking liquid into a bowl. Stir the soy sauce, cornstarch, salt, pepper, and sugar into the reserved soaking liquid and set aside. Fish out the soaked mushrooms with your fingers, squeezing the excess liquid back into the bowl. Set the liquid aside. Remove and discard the stems and finely chop the mushroom caps. Strain and pour 1 cup of the soaking liquid into a bowl. Stir the soy sauce, cornstarch, salt, pepper, and sugar into the reserved soaking liquid and set aside.

2. Heat the oil in a large skillet over high heat. Add the mushrooms and ginger and stir for 1 minute. Bits of the mushroom and ginger will stick to the pan. This is fine for now. Mix in the carrot and garlic chives and cook for 1 minute longer, stirring continuously. Pour in the soaking liquid mixture and sc.r.a.pe loose any sticky bits from the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon. Simmer until most of the liquid has cooked off but the filling is still moist and sticking together. Remove from the heat and stir in the scallion. Scoop into a bowl, break it up a bit, and and allow it to cool to room temperature. (You can make the filling in advance and keep it tightly wrapped in the refrigerator for up to 1 day.) Heat the oil in a large skillet over high heat. Add the mushrooms and ginger and stir for 1 minute. Bits of the mushroom and ginger will stick to the pan. This is fine for now. Mix in the carrot and garlic chives and cook for 1 minute longer, stirring continuously. Pour in the soaking liquid mixture and sc.r.a.pe loose any sticky bits from the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon. Simmer until most of the liquid has cooked off but the filling is still moist and sticking together. Remove from the heat and stir in the scallion. Scoop into a bowl, break it up a bit, and and allow it to cool to room temperature. (You can make the filling in advance and keep it tightly wrapped in the refrigerator for up to 1 day.) 3. a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS: Before a.s.sembling the Before a.s.sembling the xiang gu baozi, xiang gu baozi, review the Pinched-Top Fold, which produces natural pleats when you simply gather up the sides and pinch off the top. review the Pinched-Top Fold, which produces natural pleats when you simply gather up the sides and pinch off the top.

4. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour. Also have ready the dough and the filling. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour. Also have ready the dough and the filling.

5. Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it in half, and set one piece aside under a kitchen towel. Shape the remaining piece into a ball, then roll it out until it's just under Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it in half, and set one piece aside under a kitchen towel. Shape the remaining piece into a ball, then roll it out until it's just under 1 1/8 inch thick. Sprinkle with flour if it gets sticky. inch thick. Sprinkle with flour if it gets sticky.

6. Using the cookie cutter, cut out as many rounds as you can, usually 10 to 12. Collect the sc.r.a.ps from around the rounds and put them aside under a damp kitchen towel for later use. Using the cookie cutter, cut out as many rounds as you can, usually 10 to 12. Collect the sc.r.a.ps from around the rounds and put them aside under a damp kitchen towel for later use.

7. Lay flat 1 to 5 dough rounds. Brush each round with a very thin coating of water to make them sticky enough to seal. Place a rounded teaspoon of filling in the center of each round. Gather up the sides of the round, joining the edges to form a casually pleated top. Pinch and squeeze the gathered dough at the top of the dumplings to seal the top. Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal. There is usually a little nub of dough at the top of the dumplings a.s.sembled using the Pinched-Top Fold that you can twist off for a neater look. Place the a.s.sembled dumplings in a single layer on the prepared tray and keep them covered with a kitchen towel while you work. Once you have a.s.sembled the first batch of dumplings, continue with the remaining dough and filling. Combine all the dough sc.r.a.ps, knead them into a ball, roll it out, cut out as many rounds as you can, and fill and fold those too. Allow the dumplings to rise on the tray at room temperature for 30 to 45 minutes before steaming. Lay flat 1 to 5 dough rounds. Brush each round with a very thin coating of water to make them sticky enough to seal. Place a rounded teaspoon of filling in the center of each round. Gather up the sides of the round, joining the edges to form a casually pleated top. Pinch and squeeze the gathered dough at the top of the dumplings to seal the top. Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal. There is usually a little nub of dough at the top of the dumplings a.s.sembled using the Pinched-Top Fold that you can twist off for a neater look. Place the a.s.sembled dumplings in a single layer on the prepared tray and keep them covered with a kitchen towel while you work. Once you have a.s.sembled the first batch of dumplings, continue with the remaining dough and filling. Combine all the dough sc.r.a.ps, knead them into a ball, roll it out, cut out as many rounds as you can, and fill and fold those too. Allow the dumplings to rise on the tray at room temperature for 30 to 45 minutes before steaming.

8. STEAM THE DUMPLINGS STEAM THE DUMPLINGS: Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Line the basket with the lettuce leaves. Gently arrange as many dumplings as you can, s.p.a.cing them about inch apart, on top of the leaves. Place the basket in the pot, cover, and steam on high heat for 15 minutes. Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Line the basket with the lettuce leaves. Gently arrange as many dumplings as you can, s.p.a.cing them about inch apart, on top of the leaves. Place the basket in the pot, cover, and steam on high heat for 15 minutes.

9. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket, place it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket, place it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the xiang gu baozi xiang gu baozi to cool slightly. Using a spoon or a small spatula, move them to a plate and serve. Cook any remaining to cool slightly. Using a spoon or a small spatula, move them to a plate and serve. Cook any remaining xiang gu baozi xiang gu baozi. These are best eaten hot, but they are also good at room temperature. Xiang gu baozi Xiang gu baozi can be refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 6 months (see Tips). Reheat them in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (Tips). If reheating frozen can be refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 6 months (see Tips). Reheat them in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (Tips). If reheating frozen xiang gu baozi xiang gu baozi, allow them to thaw before steaming.

FRESH MUSHROOM BUNS.

Replace the dried s.h.i.+take and wood ear mushrooms with 8 ounces fresh s.h.i.+take mushrooms, stemmed.

Pineapple-Pecan Tamales Tamales Dulces (Mexico) (Mexico) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 8 ( 8 (MAKES 16 16 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

The combination of corn and fresh pineapple creates a flavor that is well balanced and irresistible. The Mexican brown sugar panela panela (see Glossary of Equipment) rounds off the flavors of this sweet tamale. Most of the tang from the pineapple disappears, and the level, creamlike flavor of the corn becomes more p.r.o.nounced. Chopped pecans, raisins, and small chunks of pineapple add extra texture and a burst of flavor. (see Glossary of Equipment) rounds off the flavors of this sweet tamale. Most of the tang from the pineapple disappears, and the level, creamlike flavor of the corn becomes more p.r.o.nounced. Chopped pecans, raisins, and small chunks of pineapple add extra texture and a burst of flavor.

These dumplings are wrapped using the Single-Husk Tamale Fold.

For the Batter2/3 cup nonhydrogenated vegetable shortening, at room temperature cup nonhydrogenated vegetable shortening, at room temperature2 cups masa harina1 teaspoon baking powder1/8 teaspoon salt teaspoon salt1 ounce panela panela, chopped fine (about cup), or other unrefined sugar (see Glossary of Ingredients) cup warm water small pineapple, peeled, cored, and pureed (about 1 cups)For the Filling1 cups roasted or raw unsalted sh.e.l.led pecans small pineapple, peeled, cored, and cut into -inch pieces1 cup raisinsFor a.s.sembly20 to 25 prepared dried corn husks (see Glossary of Equipment)Sixteen 12-inch lengths of kitchen string for tying the tamalesEquipmentElectric hand mixer8- to 10-quart steamer pot 1. MAKE THE BATTER 30 MINUTES IN ADVANCE MAKE THE BATTER 30 MINUTES IN ADVANCE: Whip the shortening in a medium bowl with the hand mixer at medium speed until light and glossy, about 5 minutes. Whip the shortening in a medium bowl with the hand mixer at medium speed until light and glossy, about 5 minutes.

2. Combine the masa harina, baking powder, and salt in a large bowl. Combine the masa harina, baking powder, and salt in a large bowl.

3. Combine the Combine the panela panela and the warm water in a medium bowl, crus.h.i.+ng any hard-to-dissolve bits with the back of a wooden spoon. Once the sugar has dissolved, add it to the masa harina mixture along with the pineapple puree and mix with the hand mixer at low speed to combine. Raise the speed to high and mix in the shortening, one spoonful at a time. Continue to mix at high speed until the batter is very light and fluffy, about 10 minutes. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes before using. (You can also make the batter 1 day in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed container.) and the warm water in a medium bowl, crus.h.i.+ng any hard-to-dissolve bits with the back of a wooden spoon. Once the sugar has dissolved, add it to the masa harina mixture along with the pineapple puree and mix with the hand mixer at low speed to combine. Raise the speed to high and mix in the shortening, one spoonful at a time. Continue to mix at high speed until the batter is very light and fluffy, about 10 minutes. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes before using. (You can also make the batter 1 day in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed container.) 4. PREPARE THE PECANS PREPARE THE PECANS: If using roasted pecans, coa.r.s.ely chop them. If using raw pecans, roast them in a 375F oven until they just begin to brown, 6 to 8 minutes. Once the pecans have cooled completely, coa.r.s.ely chop and set them aside. If using roasted pecans, coa.r.s.ely chop them. If using raw pecans, roast them in a 375F oven until they just begin to brown, 6 to 8 minutes. Once the pecans have cooled completely, coa.r.s.ely chop and set them aside.

5. a.s.sEMBLE THE TAMALES a.s.sEMBLE THE TAMALES: Before a.s.sembling the tamales, review the Single-Husk Tamale Fold. Before a.s.sembling the tamales, review the Single-Husk Tamale Fold.

6. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and have ready the batter, the pineapple, pecans, the raisins, the husks, and the ties. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and have ready the batter, the pineapple, pecans, the raisins, the husks, and the ties.

7. Loosen up the chilled batter by whisking it for 2 to 3 minutes. The consistency should be something similar to a grainy and dense mousse. If the batter is too stiff to whisk easily, mix in some cold water, a little at a time, until it is softer and fluffier. Loosen up the chilled batter by whisking it for 2 to 3 minutes. The consistency should be something similar to a grainy and dense mousse. If the batter is too stiff to whisk easily, mix in some cold water, a little at a time, until it is softer and fluffier.

8. Pick out the best 16 husks. Lay flat 1 husk, smooth side up. Center 2 rounded tablespoons of the batter on top of the husk and spread it to the right until it forms a rectangle about 4 2 inches. Arrange 3 to 4 pieces of pineapple, a tablespoon of the pecans, and a tablespoon of the raisins on top of the left half of the rectangle only. Fold the right side of the husk over, sandwiching the filling between the batter. Fold the left side of the husk over the top. Fold the ends of the husk over as firmly as you can to create a neat rectangular package. Tie the package in a crisscross pattern to prevent the husk from unfolding and place on the lined tray. Repeat until you have 16 tamales. Pick out the best 16 husks. Lay flat 1 husk, smooth side up. Center 2 rounded tablespoons of the batter on top of the husk and spread it to the right until it forms a rectangle about 4 2 inches. Arrange 3 to 4 pieces of pineapple, a tablespoon of the pecans, and a tablespoon of the raisins on top of the left half of the rectangle only. Fold the right side of the husk over, sandwiching the filling between the batter. Fold the left side of the husk over the top. Fold the ends of the husk over as firmly as you can to create a neat rectangular package. Tie the package in a crisscross pattern to prevent the husk from unfolding and place on the lined tray. Repeat until you have 16 tamales.

9. Set aside the number of tamales that you would like to cook and keep the rest frozen for up to 6 months (see Tips). Set aside the number of tamales that you would like to cook and keep the rest frozen for up to 6 months (see Tips).

10. STEAM THE TAMALES STEAM THE TAMALES: Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Meanwhile, arrange the packages upright, leaning, or wedged loosely against each other in the basket. Ball up and stick in any extra husks or parchment paper to keep the tamales propped up if needed. Blanket them with any remaining husks. Place the basket in the pot, cover, reduce the heat to medium, and steam for 1 hours. Check the water level every 30 minutes and replenish with boiling water as needed. (If steaming frozen tamales, place them directly in the basket and cook them in the steamer pot for 2 hours. Do not allow the tamales to thaw before cooking.) Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Meanwhile, arrange the packages upright, leaning, or wedged loosely against each other in the basket. Ball up and stick in any extra husks or parchment paper to keep the tamales propped up if needed. Blanket them with any remaining husks. Place the basket in the pot, cover, reduce the heat to medium, and steam for 1 hours. Check the water level every 30 minutes and replenish with boiling water as needed. (If steaming frozen tamales, place them directly in the basket and cook them in the steamer pot for 2 hours. Do not allow the tamales to thaw before cooking.) 11. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket and place it on a folded kitchen towel. Let the tamales cool slightly, cut off the strings, and serve. It's best not to open the tamales too soon and to peel back the husks just before eating so that they stay moist and warm. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket and place it on a folded kitchen towel. Let the tamales cool slightly, cut off the strings, and serve. It's best not to open the tamales too soon and to peel back the husks just before eating so that they stay moist and warm.

Tamales Stuffed with Chicken and Tomatillo Sauce Tamales de Pollo (Mexico) (Mexico) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 8 ( 8 (MAKES 16 16 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

The tangy and refres.h.i.+ng qualities of tomatillo seem to work best with chicken, and they are often paired to form the base for a large variety of tamale fillings. Tomatillos instantly invigorate leftover chicken, even meat that's been cooked a long time to make a broth. If you already have some chicken broth on hand for the batter, you can also use leftover roasted chicken or, of course, fresh chicken, as long as you cook it before mixing it into the tomatillo sauce.

These dumplings are wrapped using the Single-Husk Tamale Fold.

For the Filling6 medium tomatillos, papery husks removed and fruit rinsed2 to 3 serrano chiles or 1 large jalapeno chile1 small white onion, chopped coa.r.s.e3 garlic cloves, crushed cup finely chopped fresh cilantro stems and leaves teaspoon salt2 tablespoons nonhydrogenated lard or a neutral oil, such as grapeseed1 cup bite-sized pieces of cooked chicken (if you are making fresh chicken broth for the tamale batter, this will provide you with more than enough chicken)For the Batter1 recipe Tamale Batter from Fresh Masa or Tamale Batter from Masa Harina (recipes follow) made with chicken brothFor a.s.sembly20 to 25 prepared dried corn husks (see Glossary of Equipment)Sixteen 12-inch lengths of kitchen string for tying the tamalesEquipment8- to 10-quart steamer pot 1. MAKE THE SAUCE AND THE FILLING MAKE THE SAUCE AND THE FILLING: Preheat the oven to 400F. Preheat the oven to 400F.

2. Place the tomatillos and chiles on a baking sheet and roast until they are soft and charred in spots, about 20 minutes. Once they are cool enough to handle, pick off or rub off the patches of charred skin as best you can. Trim the tomatillos and the peppers of their firmer stem ends. For less heat, core and seed the chiles. Place the tomatillos and chiles on a baking sheet and roast until they are soft and charred in spots, about 20 minutes. Once they are cool enough to handle, pick off or rub off the patches of charred skin as best you can. Trim the tomatillos and the peppers of their firmer stem ends. For less heat, core and seed the chiles.

3. Pulse the onion, garlic, and roasted tomatillos and chiles in a food processor until the mixture is light and pulpy. Add the cilantro and salt and pulse once or twice to combine. The