A Journey to America in 1834 Part 6

SAt.u.r.dAY, JULY 19TH.

Pa.s.sed a good night and rose a little before seven. Breakfast at 8 on tea and toast with some good veal cutlets. Read a Canada paper containing rather more Bristol news than the American papers, also a conceited account of the Falls. A very pleasant breeze. An intelligent gentleman from New York explained the reason for such excessive labour in this country, that a man was better rewarded, and after getting a few dollars he was stimulated to further exertion, and again he was able to make more of these savings by further investments or speculations. He thought there was much less learning among the young men in America; they became impatient to go into business; all at 21 years feel independent and able to get on, and consequently little under the control of the parents unless wealthy.

Left Toronto this morning at seven, arrived at Port Hope half past four; got to Cobourg half past six, went on sh.o.r.e and bathed again in the Lake Ontario, found the water cooler. A group of young women with fresher complexions than I had seen before in America. A head wind and the water considerably agitated. Walked the deck till after nine with two young men that are purposing going to Quebec.

SUNDAY, JULY 20TH.

During the night the boat pitched and rolled more than I expected. Got up at half past five, found some difficulty in shaving and a little qualmish. Pa.s.sed two islands covered with wood. Made a poor breakfast, the milk had turned sour and I did not like the egg subst.i.tute. Went on sh.o.r.e at Kingston; entered a Sunday School but heard only some noisy instruction; then entered the English Church but service not commenced; then a Catholic Church, had some drops sprinkled upon me by the priest.

Looked through a new steamer which was being built, a double wheel and the paddles alternately. A great quant.i.ty of wheat swept off the deck in our steamer. A great deal of money squandered here in barracks, forts, etc.; two s.h.i.+ps rotting upon the stocks. The Rideau Ca.n.a.l[18] comes to this place, only good as furnis.h.i.+ng employment, but what becomes of old England? Pa.s.sed the 1000 islands, rocky and covered with wood. An old Canadian with an elegant bag for tobacco studded with beads. Very sleepy and dull most of this afternoon. At seven came to Brockville a pretty little town situated on rising ground. Arrived at Prescott soon after nine. Cholera reported to be very bad at Quebec, ninety a day dying; still I shall go on, hoping for the best.

MONDAY, JULY 21ST.

Rose at four, got some new milk as a good foundation; paid 1/- English for bed, walked over the new steamboat with air-tubes on each side and two small helms attached to each, a 1-1/2 yd. long and 1/3 deep turning nearly upon the centre, 180 feet long and about 27 wide; two engines.

Left at six, breakfasted outside; had a beautiful view of the bank and island. Paid 1/9 and 7 dollars for pa.s.sage to Montreal. The sail most delightful; in some places the surface became suddenly disturbed, one side a whirlpool, the other boiling up. The Durham boats[19], as they are called, are drawn up the river by means of six oxen. Cornwall[20]

1/4 past 11. One of the Durham boats drawn by two horses belly deep in the river because the banks are gra.s.sy and soft. Hazel trees different to ours; a good deal of nuts. Pa.s.sed a very splendid Rapid, called at St. Regis, an Indian village; three young Indians nearly naked, one of them caught a halfpenny thrown a considerable distance, then jumped into the river; sailed with us in our boat then plunged into the water towards the sh.o.r.e; they had very black hair and were very brown. An old female Indian came to beg; also a canoe with two females and a little one. Prevailed on one of the females to sing: thought it a Catholic chant in the Indian language. Saw two canoes all of one piece of wood.

Another delightful drive along the banks of the St. Lawrence; more Rapids; also a beautiful garden, almost the first I have seen since my visit to America. Arrived at Montreal at nine. The two last days have been spent delightfully.

TUESDAY, JULY 22ND.

Did not rise till seven, having dreamed a good deal about my late dear father. Read some newspapers; then joined Mr. Bradner in a gig up the mountain (Mount Royal); went the wrong way, so that we missed a good deal of the view of the city and river but ascended again; not so pleasant on account of the dust. Walked to the Hotel Dieu to see some ruins, but it proved only a hospital for sick people. Walked into the Cathedral, Notre Dame, a very large building, two galleries on each side and the seats below raised up from the altar. Got back and then walked to the Exchange News Room, read a good many English newspapers but found nothing particularly interesting; thence again to the Cathedral. Just before dinner, four o'clock, I was informed that the steamer was not going to Quebec; could not believe till I went down; they told me the agents had sent orders not to go in consequence of so few pa.s.sengers, but that they certainly should go to-morrow, when they expected more pa.s.sengers as there were races at Three Rivers. I and Ready from Bermuda sauntered about till dusk. This is one of the miseries of travelling, to be delayed in some little uninteresting place, or after you have seen all that is worth notice, of which there is very little in Montreal; fortunately the hotel is good enough, everything remarkably clean.

WEDNESDAY, JULY 23RD.

Rose at seven, no inducement to get up sooner. Called at the stage office to enquire about the Post Office and if they knew any Mr.

Webster; was told he had left last night, tired of the place, no wonder!

Employed all day reading the newspapers; an Indian came down by the wharf in a canoe to sell, asked ten dollars for it; found Major Penn, London; Messrs. White and Livingstone came up. The heat at 4 o'clock 96 degrees, but have pa.s.sed the day very quietly in a shaded news-room. In addition to the _St. George_ there is the Canadian steamer the _Eagle_ so that I shall surely get away. Was informed that the weather has been unusually hot since the beginning of July, without rain. Whilst in the news-room the chief conversation was the cholera; one of the gentlemen at table said the fear of it had driven away 30 or 40 people from this house; surprised to find myself so comfortable under all these circ.u.mstances. Went on board the _St. George_ steamer at eight, a n.o.ble vessel beautifully fitted up. On setting off a woman was taken on sh.o.r.e, a young man looked very dismal, and said she was taken with the cholera; she proved to have got into a wrong boat which I took care to inform the young man.

THURSDAY, JULY 24TH.

Rose at five having rested very well, though I suspected the bed-clothes not being dry. Went on sh.o.r.e at Three Rivers and into the market; Indians selling coloured baskets; a good supply of eggs and vegetables, also square lumps of sugar made from the maple. Bought a few red currants, notwithstanding the cholera; a number of canoes with different kinds of fish; the eels thicker than ours; just in time for the steamer, will not cut it so fine again. This morning almost chilly; yesterday at 4, 95 degrees and at six, 81. The sh.o.r.es on each side are lined with neat cottages. Good coffee and bread. Soon after nine the eccentric collar of one of the engines broke, so that we shall be some hours late; the other engine is also out of order, so that we may not arrive before 8 or 9. Luckily both were set to rights, and the tide is in our favour so that we now hope to get in at 3. Arrived at Quebec at two and hurried to the Post Office. Startled at sister's letter having a black wafer, but was greatly delighted to find all well both in it and in C. D.'s.

The weather intensely hot. On enquiring for T. Marsden at the P.O. found his son lived next door to the Albion Hotel, and kept a small druggist's shop; I was shown upstairs; William and young wife with her mother, who had come from New York on a visit with another daughter were there.

William looking better but very thin, which they said had been the case during the last three weeks in consequence of so much sickness; the cholera very bad, 29 deaths yesterday. Thomas lives about 1-1/2 miles off. Dined at the Hotel (Albion), walked with William to the hospital and then to his sister's; the little girl sang for us.

FRIDAY, JULY 25TH.

Rose at six. A good night's rest having supped chiefly upon milk. A thunderstorm at four reconciled us to it, in hopes of its driving away the cholera, which after all I cannot but think is exaggerated. Took a calash with young Fred Andrews, a most intelligent child of 8 years.

Went over some romantic country, and in two hours came to an open s.p.a.ce on the side of a mountain covered with trees. Fred pointed to his grandmother; she did not know me but was greatly affected. Found Thomas engaged in a small room teaching 26 boys and girls, some coming three miles. He did not know me; but was not so much altered as I expected.

His wife soon told me of T.'s irregularities which caused him to leave the school at Quebec, and they had come to this wild place to break his connections; their neighbours gone except two or three the most villainous low Irish. If she left home some of the dram sellers would fetch away hay to pay T.'s shots. After dinner T. and I set off to Beauport Lake; sailed across, caught a nice trout but no other fish, and were only allowed to use the line. A great quant.i.ty of raspberries, and there had been many strawberries. His income at one time had been 25 dollars per week. He had received 100 dollars for tuning the organ at the Cathedral.

SAt.u.r.dAY, JULY 26TH.

Made arrangements for setting off to the Falls (Montmorency Falls) at six, but the rain prevented us, almost the first disappointment in all my journey. It cleared up and we set off, a party of five to the Falls; a pleasant drive with several pleasing views of the city; disappointed with the Cascade; the gra.s.s wet, and not able to get to the foot; a strong current going to a saw mill. Returned soon after twelve; walked with T. Marsden's wife to the Potters' field to see Ainsworth's grave stone, but did not find it. Then to the Citadel[21] whence I had a magnificent view though not quite clear; and descended by the tremendous staircase, 365 steps with an inclined plane to wind up stone. Crossed over the river in a four horse ferry to see the Indians settled there, but did not find them. On my return the boat had sailed and I was rowed in a canoe by three children; got to the inn a little after four. Found two pairs of stockings missing; got 2/- allowed. Paid 1-1/4 dollars for going to Montmorency. Rain as we set off to the steamboat: sailed at seven on my way home. Between 30 and 40 sat down to tea and coffee, the latter very good. Had some conversation with Mr. Livingstone; found he was a large store-keeper dealing in silks, woollens and cottons.

SUNDAY, JULY 27TH.

Very noisy people during the night, apparently great confusion and danger in pa.s.sing the Rapids. Rose 1/4 past six, hazy almost the first time. Introduced by W. M. to a Mr. Buchanan a surveyor. 160 emigrants on the _Canada_, 12 unable to pay their fare, and their boxes taken as security. A heavy shower of rain cooled the air. Arrived at Montreal at half past four; saw the steamer sailing off to La Prairie though the Captain told me it did not go on Sunday evenings till five. Several of us were very anxious to be getting on to La Prairie; engaged a boat for two dollars more; had a written agreement. Very much troubled not to find the lady and her son and daughter ready for the boat; set off to meet them, came back determined to go on with Mr. Ready as it was getting late. The boatman came to tell me they were all waiting of me; got my luggage on board; a very narrow boat; found a good deal of agitation in the Rapids and the water nearly coming over, but we were all pretty experienced in sailing. On landing was surprised to find the four pa.s.sengers with their luggage and four boatmen had crossed the St.

Lawrence in a canoe. Two calashes were brought up, also a stage with four horses which had been sent in consequence of the steamer not waiting as they expected a signal from the _Canada_. The Captain behaved very ill, first promising to be in at four, and then telling us it did not sail till five. However, we engaged to go on to St. John's for two dollars. Arrived after twelve.

MONDAY, JULY 28TH.

Rested very well and rose at seven; a misty morning. Saw some fish, perch, etc., just taken. Sailed at six in the _Franklin_, the very nicest boat I have ever seen. A delightful morning; leaving the sick cities, Quebec and Montreal, and hastening home in good health and spirits. The Lake Champlain, only about 80 yards wide, and the sh.o.r.es low, covered with brushwood. Paid for pa.s.sage to Ticonderoga 4-1/2 dollars. The dinner very good, five or six servants with turban caps.

The dessert consisted of nuts, almonds, walnuts and raisins; all the spoons, etc., of silver; altogether the very neatest boat I ever saw.

The Captain's room fitted with excellent portraits, in another part all sorts of advertis.e.m.e.nts, with a beautiful desk for the public use. Asked a dollar for a bottle of porter, then said half a dollar. Took a pint of port wine, charged one dollar; an impudent fellow with one of the waiters saw the bottle, he filled up his gla.s.s and drank it off without once looking at me. At Plattsburg on Lake Champlain an American officer came on board and allowed our portmanteaus to pa.s.s, on condition they contained only clothes. Very delightful scenery; beautiful islands with distant mountains on each side; a broad road up the mountain; an avalanche. Went on sh.o.r.e at Burlington and had a delightful bathe, the water pleasantly warm and a sandy slope. Quite a crowd at tea so had to attend the second course. Lay down in a berth till 12; then looked after luggage which I found to be all safely locked up; everything managed in the most admirable style; the sailors all in uniform and the boat let down with a rope, so that pa.s.sengers could be landed with scarcely stopping the boat. At Ticonderoga the greatest hurry for beds; an offer made to pay for double-bedded rooms, so resigned myself to chairs: afterwards had a comfortable bedroom.

TUESDAY, JULY 29TH.

A pleasant walk before breakfast, paid 1-1/4 dollar for lodging, breakfast, and fare to Adirondack. Visited the ruined fort[22] at Ticonderoga. Changed seats with a Mr. E. Tech--arrived at the foot of Lake George at 10. Walked towards Ticonderoga and returned by water; two saws at work cutting planks; went down below the falls; the river choked with bits of wood from the saw-mills. In descending on the other side two Indian boys were fis.h.i.+ng. The mountain is covered with pines and also with bold rocks. We were told the highest mountain took fire about two years ago, and continued in flames more than a week; the dead pines are still remaining. The latter part of the Lake more interesting; several islands.

Arrived at Caldwell a little after seven. Paid the Captain 1-1/2 dollars he not having been able to give me silver out of a 5 dollar note; he then recommended me to be cautious about notes. After much trouble about beds we had tea with old bread, b.u.t.ter, plenty of sweets, also whinberries, etc. At length I prevailed upon a party to leave early and breakfast at Glen Falls. Went to bed before nine.

WEDNESDAY, JULY 30TH.

Rose half past four. Took a seat with the conductor, found it very cool, a wonderful contrast since yesterday. The road very sandy; pa.s.sed a place where the stage had been upset last night. Got to Glen Falls on the Hudson a little after seven; walked down before breakfast to a little Niagara; it looked very well rus.h.i.+ng over the black rock, the river being very considerable. Hazel nuts most abundant. The ride very delightful. Reached Saratoga before 12, according to written agreement being 4-1/2 hours, though only 17 miles. Stopped at Congress Hall Hotel to see as much as possible of the fas.h.i.+onable world; dined at two; 150 to 170 pa.s.sengers, many with their servants, and some of the gentlemen had their wine cooling in ice-water; some very pretty ladies, and gentlemen rather better looking than ordinary. Purchased a copy of the "American Traveller" for 1-1/2 dollars. Some good singing by a gentleman, also some ladies played very well; afterwards went to a ball at the United States Hotel; saw some curious dancing, whirling one another round very fast. At a loss to find my room No. 156.

THURSDAY, JULY 31ST.

Could not sleep after five in consequence of the noise of visitors leaving. Took a walk to the well, drank some water and bought a ring.

Left by the railway half past nine; the seat I had was taken by a gentleman who moved, but was revenged by getting a lady to take the place, so I mounted aloft; the breeze was pleasant. Leaving b.a.l.l.ston the carriage ran off the rail, which caused a concussion and seemed like to have squeezed our legs hanging down before; also a disagreeable pa.s.sage over and under the bridges at Schenectady; on the river Mohawk the same on landing; an interesting but perilous journey, drawn by horses and engine; wound up one place by a stationary engine. Some deep ridges cut through and rather filled up. Arrived at Albany at one. Met with an interesting young Englishman. Paid to Boston 6 dollars. Walked to the river and bought a sweet apple and looked at a pig weighing 1400 lbs.

unable to get up without a.s.sistance. Visited a planing and grooving mill, the dust from it must make the business very unhealthy; then a grand Baptist Church with six n.o.ble columns all of wood; then the Capitol or State House, and the City Hall[23], whence I had a magnificent view of the city and river Hudson. After tea visited a plane manufactory. Many birds, yellow like the canary. Went to bed at 8-1/2.

FRIDAY, AUGUST 1ST.

Called up at half past twelve to join the stage, and dragged up and down the streets collecting pa.s.sengers at different inns. Forced to go by another route than had been intended. The stage quite full and two with the driver; one next me pushed me and said he did it more on account of a lady near him: I said nothing, but pushed again; breakfast pa.s.sed rather sullenly; on returning and finding one of the pa.s.sengers had left, I said I hoped he found room without pus.h.i.+ng; and told him in his regard for the lady, he had not forgotten himself. After this we had a good deal of pleasant conversation. A good deal of white marble cut into slabs for gravestones. At Stockbridge a saw-mill; seven saws going at once. Breakfasted at Seddon, paid 37-1/2 cents for some poor coffee and tough chicken. Dined at Beckett, good pie and pudding with milk 37-1/2 cents. One sixth of the way pa.s.sed in the dark, 1/6th hilly and sheep land, with now and then a garden and better farms, 2/6ths mountainous and forest, 2/6ths still nicer, farming, great neatness and still better fencing. Pa.s.sed a long bridge over the river Connecticut, and arrived at Springfield at half past seven P.M.; though only stopping till three in the morning I was shown into the best room I have been in in America.

Noticed a hawk flying with a snake in its beak. Went to bed at eight.

Paid only 62 cents for tea and a very good and s.p.a.cious room.

SAt.u.r.dAY, AUGUST 2ND.

Rose at seven and breakfasted on nothing good but eggs. Pa.s.sed manufactures of cotton and woollen. Arrived at Worcester at half past one; the neatest town I have ever seen; every house appeared to be newly painted white, and with very pretty gardens. The road afterwards hilly with uneven places where the water gets off the road; the last twenty miles more even; a good part of the way from Albany is stony, and hence there are more walls; in many places the stones are too large to remove and the smaller ones are piled upon them in heaps. I got up to sit with the driver after breakfast, but was forced in by the sun; it became cloudy, and I mounted again, and remained out till the last four miles when it became much colder and was nearly dark. The two last stages, and one yesterday were twenty miles. Both days have been highly favourable, not meeting dust and what there was carried away by the wind. Arrived at Boston half past eight; could not get tea at this great house--took milk and bread.

SUNDAY, AUGUST 3RD.