Dress design Part 14

Shoes were rather round at the toes till near the end of the reign, when they took a square shape; a tiny rosette or bow was placed at the front of instep, and they were held by narrow ribbons, crossed and tied round the ankle. Boots lacing at the inside, with seam down the front, often had a toe-cap as in Fig. 5, Plate XXI (see p. 202); no heels were worn.

Light gauze scarves were usually carried, and very small fans besides the larger feather ones. Bags or sachets of the forms ill.u.s.trated were painted or embroidered in ribbonwork, chenille, tulle, and coloured silks.

A few specimens of parasols are also given, and gloves and mittens were of the same character as in the latter part of the last reign.

The patterns given of some of the dresses shown in the plates will be useful as to the measurements of the increase in skirt-width and sleeves; one may also note the very pointed set-out of the breast, sometimes made with two gores, which only occurs in this reign. m.u.f.fs were usually of a large size, and a bow with long ends was often worn on the front.

NINETEENTH CENTURY. GEORGE IV. 1820-30. MALE.

The mode in beaver hats was most varied; high straight crowns with small brims, others tapering at the top with larger curled brims, or crowns enlarging at the top with almost straight small brims; a top-hat of straw is shown on page 309. A short-crowned hat was also worn. The hair was combed towards the front at either side, and the face shaven, with the exception of short side-whiskers.

A very high stock of black satin or linen surrounded the throat, with or without the points of collar showing, and a frilled s.h.i.+rt, often stiffly goffered.

Coats were very tight-fitting and mostly double-breasted, with long swallow-tailed skirts, or long full skirts; the waist was rather short, and the effect of coat-front round-breasted with a high turned-over collar finished in large lapels, which were often treated with velvets.

The favourite colours for overcoats were greys, buffs, greens, and blues, and the edges were neatly finished with fine cord. The sleeves, rather full in the shoulder, became tight on the lower arm, coming to a curved shape well over the hand, and b.u.t.toned up the side. The pockets were frequently set at an angle, as in ill.u.s.tration, and a short round cape, or two, was seen on many overcoats. A short type of coat is seen about 1827, with a single roll collar.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 112.--Period 1820-1840.]

Waistcoats mostly had a round-shaped lapel, and were often double-breasted and very shaped at the waist, which was set fairly high; a long opening allowed the frilled s.h.i.+rt-front full display. There were also waistcoats having no lapels, no pockets, or no cover-flap; the points of front were very small, being b.u.t.toned to the end, or, with the double-breasted shape, they were straight across.

Breeches were not so much worn as trousers of cloth, nankeen, drill, and fine white corduroy; these were usually fastened under the boots with a strap, others were looser and often worn short, well above the ankle. A very full type in the upper part peg-tops, was in fas.h.i.+on about 1820-25 amongst the dandies, and for evening dress, very close-fitting breeches to the knee, or just above the ankle, the latter being opened and b.u.t.toned up to the calf. Pince-nez were favoured, with a heavy black ribbon, generally worn tucked in the lapels of the waistcoat; and a fob of gold seals, &c., hung from the braces, below waistcoat pocket.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 113.--1830-1840.]

Shoes and short Wellington boots were chiefly worn, the former being low in the heel and very short in the tongue, which was almost covered by small latchets, either buckled or tied, the shape of the toe being rather round. The Hessian boots with curved front and ta.s.sel at the top were still worn.

NINETEENTH CENTURY. WILLIAM IV. FEMALE.

The hair still retained the high loops on top and the bunch of curls at the sides, poised by a back comb and set with flowers or feathers; there was also a great variety of fancy capes with pointed frills, some with long tie ends, and these are seen with most dresses, and were worn in conjunction with the hats. The favourite hat was a big, flat, circular form, generally tilted at one side, and decorated with bows, flowers, and feathers; a flat tam-o'-shanter shape was often worn with the riding-dress, sometimes with a large peak-shape in front, and straps under the chin. The large poke-bonnet also kept the front as flat and round as possible, with a high crown tilted upward in order to set over the hair loops.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Plate XXVIII.--

(_a_) Silk Pelisse. 1820-30.

(_b_) Cotton Dress. 1830-40. (_Pattern, see p._ 343).

(_c_) Silk Spencer and Cape. 1818-27 (_Pattern, see p._ 324).]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 114.--1828-1836.]

The bodice began with a very pointed front and very low neck off the shoulders, tuck-ins of fine embroidery, and capes or _fichus_ of the same, covered the shoulders, often three deep. The pointed bodice only lasted for a few years, when the waistband again became the favourite.

The sleeves were very large at the shoulders, diminis.h.i.+ng at the wrist, but soon took a big round form, sometimes tightly pleated into quarters before 1835. We then get the huge sleeve gathered at the wrist, and often falling below it; this again tightened on the forearm, and we note a tendency to tighter sleeves coming in before 1837, neatly gathered well down the shoulder. The evening-dress sleeve was a large puff, set out by stiffening to a flat wide effect. Very wide epaulet collars were seen on most dresses, meeting in a =V= shape at the waist, with a filling of lace in the front, and many bodices were elaborately gathered, and some of the sleeves were also gathered into puffs all down the arm.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 115.--1830-1840.]

The skirts were set out very full over stiff flounced petticoats, and were worn rather short; as a rule they were trimmed with one or two flounces, which were handsomely decorated, and a short polonaise is occasionally seen. There were many interesting tr.i.m.m.i.n.gs of gauze, flowers, and bows; while silk-flowered gauze over dresses made some charming effects.

Heavy mantles and capes or pelisses began to be braided, and rather strong colours were in general taste.

The hand-bags were of a curved form and generally bore heavy ta.s.sels.

Very small fans and round fans were attractive, and bouquet-holders of gilt, with pearl handles, became the thing to carry.

Shoes were of the low sandal type, fastened by crossed elastic, with very square toes, and a tiny rosette or bow on the front; boots to the ankle were now in fas.h.i.+on, mostly lacing at the inside, and having a long toe-cap, sometimes with a small rosette at the top of this or a ta.s.sel at front of the top of the boot.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Plate XXIX.--

(_a_) Embroidered Silk Gauze Dress. 1820-30.

(_b_) Gauze Dress with Appliqued Design. 1825-35.

(_c_) Printed Linen Outdoor Dress. 1827-47 (_Pattern, see p. 342_).]

NINETEENTH CENTURY. WILLIAM IV. MALE.

The hair was worn rather full in curls at the sides or on top, parted at the left side, besides being occasionally parted at the centre. Side whiskers, curved forward, still continued, and a short trimmed beard was now worn round under the chin by many, moustaches also made their first appearance at the end of this reign. Top-hats were high and straight, but many still adhered to the tapered crown and larger brim.

The same plain stocks of black satin continued, with or without a front bow, and a soft pleated or frilled s.h.i.+rt-front.

The coats were similar to the last reign: the chief differences being an increase in the length of the waist, wider tails, and large lapels of a similar cut: velvet collars and cuffs were much worn, and the waist was still made tight. A coat with a square skirt as in Fig. 116 is seen for the first time, and the swallow-tailed coat was worn not quite so long.

A lower opening to the waistcoat was generally seen in evening attire, which sometimes had but four small b.u.t.tons, while more of the single-breasted type were in use, with and without lapels.

Very tight trousers to the ankle b.u.t.toned up to the calf continued, or plain trousers were held by straps under the boot; twill, corduroy, or nankeen were both strapped or free at the ankle and rather short.

Knee-breeches were still worn by many for evening dress, and long Italian capes with overcapes and high turn-over collars were fas.h.i.+onable, besides the very full-skirted greatcoat.

Boots and shoes were square at the toes and rather long and narrow, the shoes having a bow or buckle. Short Wellington boots continued much in use, also spats.

Fobs of gold seals, &c., were worn, and eye-gla.s.ses attached to a black ribbon is a noticeable feature.

NINETEENTH CENTURY. VICTORIA. FEMALE.

The hair was parted in the centre and tightened in a top setting of plaits, with side curls over the ears. This mode was retained by many till the fifties, but the top plaits began to be set lower at the back, and the same flat parted hair was brought in a curved shape to the front of the ears, often in a small plait, allowing the ear to show, or in a plaited knot at either side; about 1850 it was waved, parted, and simply curved from the forehead over the ears in a fuller manner, sometimes being turned under to increase the side fullness, while the back hair was arranged lower down the neck. In the sixties the hair was waved and caught behind in ringlets or was bunched into the hideous chignons, which are seen till about 1880.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 116.--1840-1860.]

The variety of caps and hats is too alarming to deal with, and baffles comprehensible description, so it is best for the student to dip into the hundreds of ill.u.s.trations through this period in the _Ladies'

Magazine_, _Punch_, the _Ill.u.s.trated London News_, or the _Ladies'

Treasury_ for the later styles.

The straw bonnet with a straighter poke front was favoured till 1850, when the front became considerably reduced in size and fitted closely round the face. The larger brimmed bonnets had a little frill by the ears, and the tight-brimmed bonnet often had the frill all round with a flower also tucked in effectively to the wearer's taste, and we see this favoured till the seventies. In the fifties a large flat Leghorn hat with a small crown was in evidence, the brim dipping back and front, decorated with feathers or bows, and a three-cornered French hat with feathers set in the brim came in with revival of the 18th-century style about 1860. A small bowler hat and a very small "pork-pie" hat appears in the late sixties, and a tiny-shaped bonnet of a curved form during the seventies.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Plate x.x.x.--

(_a_) Printed Silk Bodice. 1840-50.

(_Pattern, see p. 320._) (_b_) Gathered Linen Bodice. 1837-47.

(_c_) Silk Bodice and Bertha. 1845-55.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 117.--1845-1855.]

At the beginning of this long reign we find the pointed bodice with a normal length of waist has really come to stay, though many dresses retain the waistband till the fifties, and there is such a confusion of styles at that time, it is difficult to arrange a sequence. From the 18th century fas.h.i.+ons became more complicated in the greater variety of design, each overlapping the other, and several distinct forms of character come and go during this long reign. I do not envy the person who undertakes the chronology of our present period.