The Boy Mechanic Part 62

The legs are shaped at the ends to fit into a 5/8-in. hole bored in the top pieces as shown in Fig. 2, the distance between the centers of the holes being 7-5/8 in. in one piece and 9-5/8 in. in the other. The lower rails are fitted in the same way, using a 1/2-in. hole bored into each leg 2-1/2 in. up from the lower end.

Each pair of legs has a joint for folding and this joint is made by boring a hole in the middle of each leg, inserting a bolt and riveting it over washers with a washer placed between the legs as shown in Fig. 3. The entire length of each part is rounded off for the sake of neatness as well as lightness.

About 1/2 yd. of 11-in. wide material will be required for the seat and each end of this is nailed securely on the under side of the top pieces. The woodwork may be stained and varnished or plain varnished and the cloth may be made to have a pleasing effect by stencilling in some neat pattern.

** A Small Home-Made Electric Motor [222]

The accompanying photographs show the construction of a very unique electric motor, the parts consisting of the frame from an old bicycle pedal wrapped with insulated wire to make the armature and three permanent magnets taken from an old telephone magneto.

The pedal, being ball bearing, rotated with very little friction and at a surprisingly high rate of speed.

[Ill.u.s.tration: The Motor Complete]

The dust cap on the end of the pedal was removed and a battery connection, having quite a length of threads, was soldered to it as shown in the photograph. The f.l.a.n.g.es were removed from an ordinary spool and two strips of bra.s.s fastened on its circ.u.mference for the commutator. The spool was held in position by a small binding

[Ill.u.s.tration: Commutator Parts]

post nut. The shape of this nut made a good pulley for a cord belt.

--Contributed by John Shahan, Attalla, Ala.

** Rocker Blocks on Coaster Sleds [223]

The accompanying sketch shows a coasting sled with rocker blocks attached on both front and rear runners. The runners and the other parts of the sled are made in the usual way, but instead of fastening the rear runners solid to the top board and the front runners to turn on a solid plane fifth wheel, they are pivoted so each pair of runners will rock when going over b.u.mps.

The ill.u.s.tration will explain this construction without going into detail and giving dimensions for a certain size, as these rocker blocks can be attached to any coaster or toboggan sled. It will be noticed that the top board may bend as much as it will under the load without causing the front ends of the rear runners and the

[Ill.u.s.tration: Coaster Sled with Rocker Runners]

rear ends of the front runners gouging into the snow or ice.

--Contributed by W. F. Quackenbush, New York City.

** How to Make a Watch Fob [223]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Watch Fob]

This novelty watch fob is made from felt, using cla.s.s, college or lodge colors combined in the making with emblems or initials colored on the texture. Two pieces of felt, each 1-1/4 in. wide and 4-1/4 in. long, are cut V-shaped on one end of each piece about 1 in. in depth, and 3/8 in. in from the other end of one piece cut a slit 1/2 in. long; the end of the other piece is folded over, making a lap of about 1 in., and a slit is cut through the double thickness to match the one cut in the first piece. The desired emblem, initial, or pennant is stenciled on the outside of the folded piece with cla.s.s, college or lodge colors.

The strap is made from a strip of felt 3/16 in. wide and 8-1/4 in.

long; st.i.tched on both edges for appearance. Make a hole with a punch 1-1/4 in. from one end, and two holes in the other, one about 1 in. and the other 2-3/4 in. from the end. Purchase a 1/2-in. buckle from a harness maker and you will have all the parts necessary for the fob. a.s.semble as shown in the sketch. The end of the strap having the two holes is put through the slots cut in the wide pieces and the tongue of the buckle is run through both holes. The other end is pa.s.sed through the ring of the watch and fastened in the buckle as in an ordinary belt. --Contributed by C. D. Luther. Ironwood. Mich.

** Drill Lubricant [223]

A good lubricant for drilling is made by dissolving 3/4 to 1 lb.

of sal-soda in one pailful of water.

** New Way to Remove a Bottle Stopper [224]

Take a bottle of liquid, something that is carbonated, and with the aid of a napkin form a pad which is applied

[Ill.u.s.tration: Removing the Stopper]

to the lower end of the bottle. Strike hard with repeated blows against the solid surface of a wall, as shown in the sketch, and the cork will be driven out, sometimes with so much force that a part of the liquid comes with it and deluges the spectators, if desired by the operator.

** Imitation Fancy Wings on Hinges [224]

The accompanying sketch shows how I overcame the hardware troubles when I was not able to find ready-made hinges in antique design for a mission sideboard and buffet. This method allows a wide range of designs, which

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fancy Hinge Wings]

can be made at home with ordinary tools. The wings are made of copper or bra.s.s and finished in repousse, or can be tarnished and the high places burnished with 000 sandpaper or steel wool, then lacquered with white sh.e.l.lac or banana bronzing liquid.

--Contributed by John H. Schatz, Indianapolis, Ind.

** How to Make a Child's Rolling Toy [224]

Secure a tin can, or a pasteboard box, about 2 in. in diameter and 2 in. or more in height. Punch two holes A, Fig. 1, in the cover and the bottom, 1/4 in. from the center and opposite each other.

Then cut a curved line from one hole to the other, as shown at B.

A piece of lead, which can be procured from a plumber, is cut in the shape shown in Fig. 2, the size being 1 by 1-1/8 by 1-1/4 in.

An ordinary rubber band is secured around the neck of the piece of

[Ill.u.s.tration: Rolling Can Toy]

lead, as shown in Fig. 3, allowing the two ends to be free. The pieces of tin between the holes A, Fig. 1, on both top and bottom, are turned up as in Fig. 4, and the ends of the bands looped over them. The flaps are then turned down on the band and the can parts put together as in Fig. 5. The can may be decorated with brilliant colored stripes, made of paper strips pasted on the tin. When the can is rolled away from you, it winds up the rubber band, thus storing the propelling power which makes it return. --Contributed by Mack Wilson, Columbus, O.

** How to Make a Portfolio [225]

Secure a piece of Russian modeling calf leather of a size equal to 12 by 16 in. Make a paper pattern of the size indicated in the accompanying drawing, putting in the design.

The necessary tools consist of a stick with a straight edge and a tool with an end shaped like that of a nutpick. A nutpick with a V-shaped point will do if the sharpness is smoothed off by means of a piece of emery paper, so that it will indent without cutting the leather. These tools can be bought for this special purpose, but are not essential for this piece if the nutpick is at hand.

There

[Ill.u.s.tration: Portfolio Design]

will also be needed a level, non-absorbent surface upon which to lay the leather while working it. A piece of thick gla.s.s, metal, or marble will serve.