The Boy Mechanic Part 51

** HOW TO MAKE COPPER TRAYS [180]

Copper trays such as are shown in the accompanying ill.u.s.tration are very useful as well as ornamental about the house. They can be used to keep pins and needles, pens and pencils, or cigar ashes, etc. They are easily made, require no equipment in the way of tools except what are usually found about the house, unless it would be the metal shears, and when the decorations are well designed and the metal nicely colored, they make attractive little pieces to have about.

The first thing to do in preparation for making them is to prepare the design. Simple designs work out better than fussy ones and are more likely to be within the ability of the amateur. Having determined the size of the tray, draw on paper an oblong to represent it. Inside this oblong, draw another one to represent the lines along which the metal is to be bent up to form the sides. Inside this there should be drawn still another oblong to represent the margin up to which the background is to be worked.

The trays shown are 5-3/4 by 6-3/4 in., the small ash tray 4 by 4 in., the long pen and pencil tray 4-3/4 by 9-1/2 in. The second oblong was 3/4 in. inside the first on all, and the third one 1/4 in. inside the second on all.

If the decoration is to have two parts alike--symmetrical--divide the s.p.a.ce with a line down the middle. Draw one-half the design free hand, then fold along this line and trace the second half from this one. If the lines have been drawn with soft pencil, rubbing the back of the paper with a knife handle will force enough of the lead to the second side so that the outline can be determined. Four-part symmetry will require two lines and two foldings, etc.

For the metal working there will be needed a pair of tin shears, two spikes, file, flat and round-nosed pliers, screw-driver and sheet copper of No. 23 gauge. Proceed as follows: 1. Cut off a piece of copper so that it shall have 1/2 in. extra metal on each of the four sides. 2. With a piece of carbon paper trace upon the copper lines that

[Ill.u.s.tration: Articles Made from Copper]

shall represent the margin of the tray proper and the lines along which the upturned sides of the tray are to be bent; also trace the decorative design. 3. With a nail make a series of holes in the extra margin, about 3/4-in. apart and large enough to take in a 3/4-in. slim screw. 4. Fasten the metal to a thick board by inserting screws in these holes. 5. With a 20-penny wire nail that has the sharpness of its point filed off, stamp the background promiscuously. By holding the nail about 1/4 in. above the work and striking it with the hammer, at the same time striving to keep it at 1/4 in. above the metal, very rapid progress can be made.

This stamping lowers the background and at the same time raises the design. 6. Chase or stamp along the border of the design and background, using a nail filed to chisel edge. This is to make a clean, sharp division between background and design. 7. When the stamping is completed, remove the screws and the metal from the board and cut off the extra margin with the metal shears. File the edges until they are smooth to the touch. 8. With the flat pliers "raise" one side of the tray, then the other side. 9. Raise the ends, adjusting the corners as shown in the ill.u.s.tration. Use the round-nosed pliers for this purpose.

Copper is frequently treated chemically to give it color. Very pretty effects may be obtained by covering the tray with turpentine, then moving it about over a flame such as a bunsen burner until the turpentine burns off. The copper will "take on"

almost all the colors of a rainbow, and the effect will be most pleasing.

** Photograph of a Clown Face [181]

At first glance the accompanying photograph will appear as if the person photographed is wearing a false face or has his face painted like a clown. On close observation you will notice that the face is made on the bald head of the person sitting behind the table. The eyes, nose and mouth are cut from black paper and pasted on the bald spot. The subject's face is horizontal and resting upon his hands.

[Ill.u.s.tration: A Bald Head Photographed]

** Finger Mathematics [181]

By Charles C. Bradley

All machinists use mathematics. Ask a machinist what would be the product of 9 times 8 and his ready reply would be 72, but change the figures a little and say 49 times 48 and the chances are that instead of replying at once he will have to figure it out with a pencil. By using the following method it is just as easy to tell at a glance what 99 times 99 are as 9 times 9. You will be able to multiply far beyond your most sanguine expectations.

In the first numbering, begin by holding your hands with the palms toward the body and make imaginary numbers on the thumbs and fingers as follows: Thumbs, 6; first fingers, 7; second fingers, 8; third fingers, 9, and fourth fingers, 10. Suppose you desire to multiply 8 by 9, put the eighth finger on one hand against the ninth finger of the other hand as shown.

[Ill.u.s.tration: "8 Times 9"]

The two joined fingers and all the fingers above them (calling the thumbs fingers) are called the upper fingers and each has a value of ten, which tens are added. All the fingers below the joined fingers are termed the lower fingers, and each of the lower fingers represents a unit value of one. The sum of the units on one hand should be multiplied by the sum of the units on the other hand. The total tens added to this last named sum will give the product desired. Thus: Referring to above picture or to your hands we find three tens on the left hand and four tens on the right, which would be 70. We also find two units on the left hand and one on the right. Two times one are two, and 70 plus 2 equals 72, or the product of 8 times 9.

Supposing 6 times 6 were the figures. Put your thumbs together; there are no fingers above, so the two thumbs represent two tens or 20; below the thumbs are four units on each hand, which would be 16, and 20 plus 16 equals 36, or the product of 6 times 6.

[Ill.u.s.tration: "6 Times 6" "10 Times 7"]

Supposing 10 times 7 is desired. Put the little finger of the left hand against the first finger of the right hand. At a glance you see seven tens or 70. On the right hand you have three units and on the left nothing. Three times nothing gives you nothing and 70 plus nothing is 70.

In the second numbering, or numbers above 10, renumber your fingers; thumbs, 11; first fingers, 12, etc. Let us multiply 12 by 12.

Put together the tips of the fingers labeled 12. At a glance you see four tens or 40. At this point we leave the method explained in Case 1 and ignore the units (lower fingers) altogether. We go back to the upper fingers again

[Ill.u.s.tration: "12 Times 12"]

and multiply the number of upper fingers used on the one hand by the number of upper fingers used on the other hand, viz., 2 times 2 equals 4. Adding 4 to 40 gives us 44. We now add 100 (because anything over 10 times 10 would make over 100) and we have 144, the product of 12 times 12.

The addition of 100 is arbitrary, but being simple it saves time and trouble. Still, if we wish, we might regard the four upper fingers in the above example as four twenties, or 80, and the six lower fingers as six tens, or 60; then returning to the upper fingers and multiplying the two on the right hand by the two on the left we would have 4; hence 80 plus 60 plus 4 equals 144; therefore the rule of adding the lump sum is much the quicker and easier method.

Above 10 times 10 the lump sum to add is 100; above 15 times 15 it is 200; above 20 times 20, 400; 25 times 25, 600, etc., etc., as high as you want to go.

In the third numbering to multiply above 15 renumber your fingers, beginning the thumbs with 16, first finger 17, and so on. Oppose the proper finger tips as before, the upper fingers representing a value of 20. Proceed as in the first numbering and add 200. Take For example 18 times 18.

At a glance we see six twenties plus 2 units on left hand times 2 units on right hand plus 200 equals 324.

In the fourth numbering the fingers are marked, thumbs, 21, first fingers 22, etc., the value of the upper fingers being 20. Proceed as in the second lumbering, adding 400 instead of 100.

[Ill.u.s.tration: "18 Times 18"]

Above 25 times 25 the upper fingers represent a value of 30 each and after proceeding as in the third numbering you add 600 instead of 200.

This system can be carried as high as you want to go, but you must remember that for figures ending in 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 proceed as in the second numbering. For figures ending in 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10 the third numbering applies.

Determine the value of the upper fingers whether they represent tens, twenties, thirties, forties, or what. For example, any two figures between 45 and 55, the value of the upper fingers would be 50, which is the half-way point between the two fives. In 82 times 84 the value of the upper fingers would be 80 (the half-way point between the two fives, 75 and 85, being 80). And the lump sum to add.

Just three things to remember:

Which numbering is to follow, whether the one described in second or third numbering; the value which the upper fingers have; and, lastly, the lump sum to add, and you will be able to multiply faster and more accurately than you ever dreamed of before.

** Optical Illusions [183]

If a person observes fixedly for some time two b.a.l.l.s hanging on the end of cords which are in rapid revolution, not rotation, about a vertical axis, the direction of revolution will seem to reverse. In some experiments two incandescent "pills" of platinum sponge, such as an used for lighting gas-burners, were hung in tiny aluminum bells from a mica vane wheel which was turned constantly and rapidly in one direction by hot air from a gas flame to keep the platinum in a glow. The inversion and reversion did not take place, as one might suppose, at the will of the observer, but was compulsory and followed regular rules. If the observer watches the rotating objects from the side, or from above or from below, the inversion takes place against his will; the condition being that the image on the retina shall be eccentric.

It takes place also, however, with a change in the convergence of the optical axes, whether they are parallel to each other or more convergent. Also when the image on the retina is made less distinct by the use of a convex or concave lens, the revolution seems to reverse; further, in the case of a nearsighted person, when he removes his spectacles,

[Ill.u.s.tration: Illusions Shown by Revolving Platinum Sponge "Pills" and Hat Pins]

inversion results every time that the image on the retina is not sharp. But even a change in the degree of indistinctness causes inversion.

The cause of this optical illusion is the same where the wings of windmills are observed in the twilight as a silhouette. It is then not a question of which is the front or the back of the wheel, but whether one of the wings or the other comes towards the observer.

The experiment is made more simple by taking a hat pin with a conspicuous head, holding it firmly in a horizontal position, and putting a cork on the point. Looking at it in semi-darkness, one seems to see sometimes the head of the pin, sometimes the point towards him, when he knows which direction is right. The inversion will be continued as soon as one observes fixedly a point at the side. Here it is a question of the perception of depth or distance; and this is the same in the case of the rotating b.a.l.l.s; the direction of seeming revolution depends on which one of them one considers to be the front one and which the rear one.

From the foregoing the following conclusion may be reached: When, in the case of a perception remitting two appearances, one fixedly observes one of these and then permits or causes change in the sharpness of the image on the retina, the other appearance a.s.serts itself.

** Steam Engine Made from Gas Pipe and Fittings [184]

Almost all the material used in the construction' of the parts for the small steam engine ill.u.s.trated herewith was made from gas pipe and fittings. The cylinder consists of a 3-in. tee, the third opening being threaded and filled with a cast-iron plug turned to such a depth that when the interior was bored out on a lathe the bottom of the plug bored to the same radius as the other part of the tee. The outside end of the plug extended about 1/4-in. and the surface was made smooth for the valve seat. A flat slide valve was used.