The Boy Mechanic Part 26

[Ill.u.s.tration: Alarm Rings When Caller Approaches]

wire outside the house, and the alarm is complete.

When a person approaching the house steps on the trap, the bell will ring and those in the house can see who it is before the door bell rings.

--Contributed by R. S. Jackson, Minneapolis, Minn.

** Easy Method of Electroplating [88]

Before proceeding to electroplate with copper, silver or other metal, clean the articles thoroughly, as the least spot of grease or dirt will prevent

[Ill.u.s.tration: Electroplating Apparatus]

the deposit from adhering. Then polish the articles and rub them over with a cloth and fine pumice powder, to roughen the surface slightly. Finally, to remove all traces of grease, dip the articles to be plated in a boiling potash solution made by dissolving 4 oz. American ash in 1-1/2 pt. of water. Do not touch the work with the hands again. To avoid touching it, hang the articles on the wires, by which they are to be suspended in the plating bath, before dipping them in the potash solution; then hold them by the wires under running water for ten minutes to completely remove every trace of the potash.

For plating with copper prepare the following solution: 4 oz.

copper sulphate dissolved in 12 oz. water; add strong ammonia solution until no more green crystals are precipitated. Then add more ammonia and stir until the green crystals are re-dissolved giving an intense blue solution. Add slowly a strong solution of pota.s.sium cyanide until the blue color disappears, leaving a clear solution; add pota.s.sium cyanide again, about one-fourth as much in bulk as used in the decolorizing process. Then make the solution up to 2 qt. with water. With an electric pressure of 3.5 to 4 volts, this will give an even deposit of copper on the article being plated.

A solution for silver plating may be prepared as follows: Dissolve 3/4 oz. of commercial silver nitrate in 8 oz. of water, and slowly add a strong solution of pota.s.sium cyanide until no more white precipitate is thrown down. Then pour the liquid off and wash the precipitate carefully. This is best done by filling the bottle with water, shaking, allowing precipitate to settle and then pouring off the water. Repeat six times. Having finished was.h.i.+ng the precipitate, slowly add to it a solution of pota.s.sium cyanide until all the precipitate is dissolved. Then add an excess of pota.s.sium cyanide--about as much as was used in dissolving the precipitate--and make the solution up to 1 qt. with water. This solution, with an electric pressure of 2 to 4 volts, will give a good white coat of silver in twenty minutes to half-an-hour; use 2 volts for large articles, and 4 volts for very small ones. If more solution is required, it is only necessary to double all given quant.i.ties.

Before silver plating, such metals as iron, lead, pewter, zinc, must be coated with copper in the alkaline copper bath described, and then treated as copper. On bra.s.s, copper, German silver, nickel and such metals, silver can be plated direct. The deposit of silver will be dull and must be polished. The best method is to use a revolving scratch brush; if one does not possess a buffing machine, a hand scratch brush is good. Take quick, light strokes.

Polish the articles finally with ordinary plate powder.

The sketch shows how to suspend the articles in the plating-bath.

If acc.u.mulators are used, which is advised, be sure to connect the positive (or red) terminal to the piece of silver hanging in the bath, and the negative (or black) terminal to the article to be plated. Where Bunsen cells are used, the carbon terminal takes the place of the positive terminal of the acc.u.mulator. --Model Engineer.

** An Ingenious Electric Lock for a Sliding Door [89]

The apparatus shown in Fig. 1 not only unlocks, but opens the door, also, by simply pressing the key in the keyhole.

In rigging it to a sliding door, the materials required are: Three flat pulleys, an old electric bell or buzzer, about 25 ft. of clothesline rope and some No. 18 wire. The wooden catch, A (Fig.

1), must be about 1 in. thick

[Ill.u.s.tration: Electric Lock for Sliding Door]

and 8 in. long; B should be of the same wood, 10 in. long, with the pivot 2 in. from the lower end. The wooden block C, which is held by catch B, Can be made of a 2-in. piece of broomstick. Drill a hole through the center of this block for the rope to pa.s.s through, and fasten it to the rope with a little tire tape.

When all this is set up, as shown in Fig. 1, make a key and keyhole. A 1/4 in. bolt or a large nail sharpened to a point, as at F, Fig. 3, will serve for the key. To provide the keyhole, saw a piece of wood, I, 1 in. thick by 3 in. square, and bore a hole to fit the key in the center. Make a somewhat larger block (E, Fig. 3) of thin wood with a 1/8-in. hole in its center. On one side of this block tack a piece of tin (K, Fig. 3) directly over the hole. Screw the two blocks together, being careful to bring the holes opposite each other. Then, when the point of the key touches the tin, and the larger part (F, Fig. 3) strikes the bent wire L, a circuit is completed; the buzzer knocks catch A (Fig.

1), which rises at the opposite end and allows catch B to fly forward and release the piece of broom-stick C. The weight D then falls and jerks up the hook-lock M, which unlocks the door, and the heavier weight N immediately opens it.

Thus, with a switch as in Fig. 3, the door can only be opened by the person who has the key, for the circuit cannot be closed with an ordinary nail or wire. B, Fig. 2, shows catch B, Fig. 1, enlarged; 0, Fig. 2, is the cut through which the rope runs; H, Fig. 1, is an elastic that snaps the catch back into place, and at G the wires run outside to the keyhole.

This arrangement is very convenient when one is carrying something in one hand and can only use the other. Closing the door winds up the apparatus again.

--Contributed by E. H. Klipstein, 116 Prospect St., East Orange, New Jersey.

** Parlor Magic for Winter Evenings [90]

By C. H. CLAUDY

You are seated in a parlor at night, with the lights turned low.

In front of you, between the parlor and the room back of it, is an upright square of brightly burning lights, surrounding a perfectly black s.p.a.ce. The magician stands in front of this, in his s.h.i.+rt sleeves, and after a few words of introduction proceeds to show the wonders of his magic cave.

Showing you plainly that both hands are empty, he points with one finger to the box, where immediately appears a small white china bowl. Holding his empty hand over this bowl, some oranges and apples drop from his empty hand into the bowl. He removes the bowl from the black box, or cave, and hands its contents round to the audience. Receiving the bowl again, he tosses it into the cave, but it never reaches the floor--it disappears in midair.

The illusions he shows you are too many to retail at length.

Objects appear and disappear. Heavy metal objects, such as forks, spoons and jackknives, which have been shown to the audience and which can have no strings attached to them, fly about in the box at the will of the operator. One thing changes to another and back again, and black art reigns supreme.

Now all this "magic" is very simple and requires no more skill to prepare or execute than any clever boy or girl of fourteen may possess. It is based on the performance of the famous Hermann, and relies on a principle of optics for its success. To prepare such a magic cave, the requisites are a large soap box, a few simple tools, some black paint, some black cloth, and plenty of candles.

The box must be altered first. One end is removed, and a slit, one-third of the length from the remaining end, cut in one side.

This slit should be as long as the width of the box and about five inches wide. On either side of the box, half way from open end to closed end, should be cut a hole, just large enough to comfortably admit a hand and arm.

Next, the box should be painted black both inside and out, and finally lined inside with black cloth. This lining must be done neatly-no folds must show and no heads of tacks. The interior must be a dead black. The box is painted black first so that the cloth used need not be very heavy; but if the cloth be sufficiently thick, no painting inside is required. The whole inside is to be cloth-lined, floor, top, sides and end.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Candle stand]

Next, the illumination in front must be arranged. If you can have a plumber make you a square frame of gas-piping, with tiny holes all along it for the gas to escape and be lit, and connect this by means of a rubber tube to the gas in the house, so much the better; but a plentiful supply of short candles will do just as well, although a little more trouble. The candles must be close together and arranged on little brackets around the whole front of the "cave" (see small cut), and should have little pieces of bright tin behind them, to throw the light toward the audience.

The whole function of these candles is to dazzle the eyes of the spectators, heighten the illusion, and prevent them seeing very far into the black box.

Finally, you must have an a.s.sistant, who must be provided with either black gloves or black bags to go over his hands and arms, and several black drop curtains, attached to sticks greater in length than the width of the box, which are let down through the slit in the top.

The audience room should have only low lights; the room where the cave is should be dark, and if you can drape portieres between two rooms around the box (which, of course, is on a table) so much the better.

The whole secret of the trick lies in the fact that if light be turned away from anything black, into the eyes of him who looks, the much fainter light reflected from the black surface will not affect the observer's eye. Consequently, if, when the exhibitor puts his hand in the cave, his confederate behind inserts his hand, covered with a black glove and holding a small bag of black cloth, in which are oranges and apples, and pours them from the bag into a dish, the audience sees the oranges and apples appear, but does not see the black arm and bag against the black background.

The dish appears by having been placed in position behind a black curtain, which is s.n.a.t.c.hed swiftly away at the proper moment by the a.s.sistant. Any article thrown into the cave and caught by the black hand and concealed by a black cloth seems to disappear. Any object not too large can be made to "levitate" by the same means.

A picture of anyone present may be made to change into a grinning skeleton by suddenly screening it with a dropped curtain, while another curtain is swiftly removed from over a pasteboard skeleton, which can be made to dance either by strings, or by the black veiled hand holding on to it from behind, and the skeleton can change to a white cat.

But illusions suggest themselves. There is no end to the effects which can be had from this simple apparatus, and if the operators are sufficiently well drilled the result is truly remarkable to the uninitiated. The illusion, as presented by Hermann, was identical with this, only he, of course, had a big stage, and people clothed in black to creep about and do his bidding, while here the power behind the throne is but a black-veiled hand and arm. It can be made even more complicated by having two a.s.sistants, one on each side of the box, and this is the reason why it was advised that two holes be cut. This enables an absolutely instantaneous change as one uncovers the object at the moment the second a.s.sistant covers and removes the other.

[Ill.u.s.tration: The Magic Cave]

It is important that the a.s.sistants remain invisible throughout, and if portieres are impossible, a screen must be used. But any boy ingenious enough to follow these simple instructions will not need to be told that the whole success of the exhibition depends upon the absolute failure of the audience to understand that there is more than one concerned in bringing about the curious effects which are seen. The exhibitor should be a boy who can talk; a good "patter"--as the magicians call it--is often of more value than a whole host of mechanical effects and helpers. It is essential that the exhibitor and his confederate be well drilled, so that the latter can produce the proper effects at the proper cue from the former. Finally, never give an exhibition with the "cave" until you have watched the illusions from the front yourself; so that you can determine whether everything connected with the draping is right, or whether some stray bit of light reveals what you wish to conceal.

** Reversing-Switch for Electrical Experiments [92]

A homemade reversing-switch, suitable for use by students of electrical and engineering courses in performing experiments, is shown in the diagram.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG.2 Suitable for Students' Use]

Referring to Fig. 1, A represents a pine board 4 in. by 4 in. and a is a circular piece of wood about 1/4 in. square, with three bra.s.s strips, b1, b2, b3, held down on it by two terminals, or binding posts, c1, c2, and a common screw, d. Post c1 is connected to d by means of an insulated wire, making them carry the same kind of current (+ in the sketch).