Journal of a Voyage from Okkak, on the Coast of Labrador, to Ungava Bay, Westward of Cape Chudleigh Part 6

In descending, as well as ascending the river, we saw a great number of whitefish, and many seals. Reindeer are numerous on both sh.o.r.es, both in summer and winter. All the Esquimaux declared, that this was the best provision-place in the whole country, and they consequently flock to it from all parts every summer, frequently protracting their stay during the winter. The greater number of those we found here, purposed spending next winter in this neighbourhood. The Esquimaux are prevented from making this place their constant residence by their fear of the land-Indians, which cause them to quit it sooner than they otherwise would wish to do.

We spared no pains to collect all the information we possibly could obtain, on every subject relating to this situation, both as to itself, and in reference to the possibility of approaching it with a s.h.i.+p, as likewise respecting the inhabitants of the Ungava country in general. It appeared evident, that the place above described is the most eligible for forming a missionary-settlement.

We found it unnecessary to proceed to the Westward, by the account given us by our worthy conductor Uttakiyok, whose information hitherto we had always found correct, and confidently to be relied on.

He reported: 1. That farther West no wood is to be found on the coast.

2. That besides the two rivers Kangertlualuksoak and Koksoak, they knew of no place where a s.h.i.+p might with safety approach the land.

3. That at this time we should probably find no inhabitants, as they had all gone into the interior to hunt reindeer.

We therefore now considered the business committed to us to be accomplished, and determined to return to Okkak, thankful to G.o.d our Saviour for the many proofs of His favour, and protection, experienced in the execution of our commission.

CHAPTER XIII.

_Return to Okkak._

September 1st.--At ten A.M. we fell down the river with the ebb-tide, and about noon anch.o.r.ed near its mouth. The Esquimaux showed great attachment to us, and could hardly resolve to take a final leave. They called after us, "Come soon again, we shall always be wis.h.i.+ng for you."

Several of them, and among them our friend Uttakiyok, followed us in their kayaks to the mouth of the river.

We erected here, on the promontory Kernerauyak, a board with an inscription similar to that put up at George river, but with the day of our departure inserted, viz. Sept. 1st, instead of the day of our arrival, Aug. 7th. The same solemnities took place as on the former occasion. Our faithful pilot Uttakiyok, who had rendered us such important and essential services, now took leave of us, as he intends to spend the winter in this neighbourhood. He repeated his a.s.surance, that if we settled here, he would be the first to join us, and to turn with his whole heart to G.o.d. Not willing to be any longer inc.u.mbered with the skin-boat, we added it to other useful articles given to Uttakiyok, as a reward for his faithful attention to us. He was very highly gratified, and thankful for this species of remuneration.

2d. Left the Koksoak, called by us, _South river_, and steered to the N.

of _Kernerauyak_ and _Kikkertorsoak_. In the evening we cast anchor in an open road, among the _Nachorutsit_ islands, with fine weather.

3d. Set sail at sun-rise, wind and tide in our favour, and proceeded rapidly. About noon, however, a fog came on, which obliged us to come to an anchor at _Pitsiolak_. When it cleared up, we proceeded, steering between _Allukpalak_ and _Nipkotok_, and cast anchor in the open sea, near _Kernertut_, where, on our first arrival, we encountered such a tremendous storm. The night proved quite calm and fair.

4th. A gentle breeze brought us pleasantly as far as the island _Nauyet_, at the mouth of the _Kangertlualuksoak_, where we cast anchor, having performed the same voyage in three days, which took us twelve on our former pa.s.sage. The distance may be about 100 English miles.

5th. Landed, and erected a species of landmark, on the highest point of _Nauyet_, as a s.h.i.+p entering the river must keep near this island, the sh.o.r.e on the other side being very foul. Contrary winds now obliged us to enter the bay, and cast anchor in the same place where we had lain on the 9th of August.

6th. Storm and rain prevented our proceeding. The Esquimaux went on sh.o.r.e, and pitched their tent. Of late they generally spent the night on board the boat.

7th. Wind at W. but a heavy swell from the sea prevented our sailing.

Our men went out to hunt, and Paul returned in the evening with a deer.

8th. Snow had fallen during the night, and the whole country had the appearance of the middle of winter. We dropped down with the ebb-tide, but were obliged to anchor again near the entrance of the bay. When the tide turned we proceeded, and, leaving _Kikkertorsoak_ to the right, made for cape _Kattaktok_, where we spent the night at anchor among some low islands. The night was clear, and a comet appeared N. by W.

9th. Wind favourable and strong. We set sail at sun-rise, and steered for _Uibvaksoak_, and so rapidly did our boat make way through the waves, that we arrived there already at four in the afternoon, pa.s.sing swiftly by the Dragon's dwelling, (_Torngets_). A thunder-storm was approaching. The wind, which felt quite warm, was in our rear, and violent gusts a.s.sailed us now and then, which made us shorten sail; yet the boat seemed to fly from island to island. We were unable to find a safe anchorage till 8 P.M. when it was already dark. We had sailed, in fourteen hours, about 100 English miles, and were all completely wet with the spray of the sea and frequent showers. Our Esquimaux were obliged, in this condition, to lie down either on deck or on sh.o.r.e.

10th. Reached _Omanek_, about 40 or 50 miles sail.

11th. Wind contrary, with much rain. We were confined to our narrow cabin, and shut in all day, with a lamp burning.

12th. Clear weather: set sail at noon. In the afternoon we were saluted by some shots from _Killinek_ Esquimaux, who were halting not far from the Ikkerasak, or straits, at the entrance of which we cast anchor about 7 P.M.

13th. Though we wished to have some conversation with the _Killinek_ people, as they cannot often come to Okkak, yet we thought it adviseable to lose no time, and, with the ebb-tide, pa.s.sed through the _Ikkerasak_ in perfect safety. When, about 1 P.M. the tide turned, we ran into a cove on the south side, and at 5 P.M. anch.o.r.ed in the lagoon above described, (See page 43), the entrance to which will only admit a boat.

14th. Reached _Oppernavik_, where we first met Uttakiyok.

15th. Set sail with a gentle breeze, which permitted us to have our Sunday's service on deck. The wind, however, soon turning against us, we were compelled to return to our former anchorage.

16th and 17th. We were unpleasantly detained by wind and rain, and on the latter day much snow fell.

18th. Reached _Kikkertarsoak_ about 1 P.M. Our men went out in their kayaks, and returned in the evening with three seals. The night was fair, with beautiful appearances of the Aurora Borealis.

19th. The morning was calm: some indications of approaching storm made us anxious to proceed. We set out early; but a fog coming on, we came again to an anchor off a barren island. After staying here two hours, hoping for a favourable change, Jonathan proposed to proceed, and steered S.W. not knowing rightly where we were. On this occasion, we could not help admiring the composure of the Esquimaux. But having last night made a hearty meal of the provisions they had acquired, they seemed to take things easy, and thought it would all be right in the end. So it turned out; for by and by we saw the continent, and kept along sh.o.r.e, till we got to the promontory _Kakkeviak_, where, on our pa.s.sage, we had nearly suffered s.h.i.+pwreck. (See page 38). Here we cast anchor in a wide shallow bay, and spent a quiet night.

20th. The fog had dispersed, and the wind was favourable, though s.h.i.+fting from W. to N.W.N. and N.E. At 7 P.M. we reached _k.u.maktorvik_ and found good anchorage close to the Esquimaux winter-houses; but we were disappointed by finding them empty, the people being probably out on the reindeer-hunt. There were four houses standing, apparently not old, and the traces of eight others, situated on a low point of land, well covered with gra.s.s, and surrounded by high mountains.

21st. Wind N.W. set sail by break of day; reached _Nennoktok_ about noon, and steered across _Sangmiyok_ bay, for the northern promontory in _Nachvak_ bay. Sangmiyok bay is full of breakers, and the sea running pretty high, they appeared very distinctly. The wind dying away in the afternoon, we got no farther than the steep rocks under which we had spent the night of July the 18th, where we came to an anchor. A heavy swell from the sea, and violent gusts of wind a.s.sailing us in all directions from the mountains gave us much uneasiness; but, by the protecting care of G.o.d, we suffered no harm.

22d. It blew hard from the N.W. and prevented our running into Nachvak bay. Our situation being highly dangerous, and the wind favouring our proceeding, we determined to pa.s.s by Nachvak. But having sailed across the bay, our captain found it impossible to proceed, and thought proper to come to an anchor. The truth was, that he had left some articles here in a cove, which he wished to secure. We therefore went on sh.o.r.e, and found many fragments of the bones of whales, whence we inferred that whales are sometimes cast on sh.o.r.e in this place.

23d. A heavy storm came on from the N.W. To-day we caught the first cod-fish, which proved a very acceptable change of diet for us and our people.

24th. The morning was calm. Wind E. left the cove and steered for Nachvak, and came, _accidentally_, to the very place where Jonathan's goods were deposited. Not perceiving any Esquimaux on sh.o.r.e, Jonathan and Thukkekina went up the bay in their kayaks in search of them.

Meanwhile _we_ landed, and on the declivity of a hill found a great quant.i.ty of green soapstone. In the evening Jonathan and Thukkekina returned with ten other Equimaux, who rejoiced to see us again.

25th. Brother Kohlmeister was engaged all day with the Esquimaux.

Brother Kmoch went up the mountain, and brought some fine specimens of steat.i.te.

26th. Wind strong at N.W. we set sail; but the wind failing, we could not reach _Saeglek_, as proposed, but spent the night in the open sea.

It pa.s.sed, however, without any unpleasant occurrences.

27th. The want of wind prevented our getting to-day as far as the Saeglek islands. Having pa.s.sed through a very narrow Ikkerasak, with hardly sufficient depth of water for so large a boat, we cast anchor near our former station at _Kikkertarsoak_.

28th. Wind cold and changeable, and towards evening stormy.

29th. Set sail about 6 A.M. with a strong wind at W. and in the evening had reached _Kangertluksoak_ islands.

30th. It blew hard, with snow, and we were obliged to spend the day shut up in our small cabin by lamp-light. The land was covered with snow. We were detained here very unpleasantly for three days, by the violence of the wind and weather.

_October_ 3d. We steered for the promontory of _Kaumayok_; but the wind dying away, and at length turning to the South, we could not gain any safe harbour, and were obliged to tack about all night in the open sea.

The weather, however, was mild, and we had the advantage of moon-light.

4th. At 7 A.M. we succeeded in pa.s.sing the Northern Ikkerasak near cape _Mugford_ with the tide, and the wind becoming fair, soon brought us among the Okkak islands. About noon we doubled cape _Uivak_, and perceived Esquimaux on sh.o.r.e, who ran up the hills, shouted for joy, and gave us by signs to understand, that the s.h.i.+p (the brig Jemima, sent annually with provisions to the settlements) was still at Okkak.

We cannot describe the inexpressible pleasure and grat.i.tude to G.o.d our Saviour which we felt, when we again beheld the neighbourhood of Okkak, after an absence of fifteen weeks. As soon as the captain descried our boat approaching, he hoisted his colours, and fired some guns to give notice of our arrival. As we were obliged to tack, to gain the entrance to the harbour, he came to meet us in the s.h.i.+p's boat, and about one o'clock we landed. The Missionaries and the Esquimaux met us with tears of joy and thankfulness, when we all joined in praise to G.o.d, who had so wonderfully kept His protecting hand over us during this perilous voyage, and granted us to return home in safety.

Our voyage lasted from the 24th of June to the 4th of October, and we calculated it to be a distance of from 1200 to 1300 miles.

BENJAMIN GOTTLIEB KOHLMEISTER.

GEORGE KMOCH.