Ocean to Ocean on Horseback Part 19

The most distinguished citizen of South Bend at the time of my visit, and the most prominent man in Indiana, was Hon. Schuyler Colfax, whose career as a statesman was a singularly brilliant one. For over a quarter of a century he had been eminent in state and national politics.

Beginning life as an editor he founded in 1845 the _St. Joseph Valley Register_, an organ of considerable popularity and which at the time had a strong influence in local Whig circles. His subsequent duties as Speaker of the House of Representatives and the friend and adviser of Lincoln, kept him out of editorial work, and later he was entirely engrossed with affairs of state. In 1868 he was elected to the office of Vice-President under General Grant as chief executive.

One Hundred and Third Day.

_Sweet's Hotel,_ GRAND RAPIDS, MICHIGAN, _August Twenty-second._

My birthday. Went by rail from South Bend to Kalamazoo in the morning; had dinner at the latter place, and then caught an early train for Grand Rapids, where, finding that George had made unusually good arrangements, I spoke in Luce's Hall to one of the largest audiences which greeted me in Michigan, General W. P. Innes, well known in Grand Army circles and a mason of high rank, introducing me. A large and strongly executed painting of the Battle of Lookout Mountain, stretching across the rear of the platform, made a striking effect and gave zest to my reference to the War for the Union.

My reception at this place was so hearty that I should have enjoyed a longer visit; but plans already laid prevented. I knew the town itself well, for I had previously been there. It is full of interest both on account of its past history and its present activity. The city lies on both sides of the Grand River and seems to be hedged in by the great bluffs that reach along at the water edge of the valley two miles apart.

Below is a stratum of limestone rock, forming the bed of the river, for about a mile and a half with a descent of eighteen feet causing the rapids and supplying the water-power. Gypsum is quarried here in large quant.i.ties, and this industry supplemented by manufactures and fruit culture gives it its commercial importance. Perhaps its most striking peculiarity is to be found in the large proportion of Hollanders who swell the population. Their churches, their newspapers and their general thrift give them a high standing in the community, and what they have ever been accorded--a reputation for being loyal and enterprising citizens.

In 1760 there was a very different state of things here. The Ottawa Indians had a large village below the rapids, and there Pontiac's voice was heard, calling upon the chiefs to aid him in his projected siege of Detroit. Here the fur traders had their grand depot, and the missionaries labored in the cause of Christianity; and when in 1834 the Indian settlement began its metamorphosis, some bold prophet declared that it would soon be "the brightest star in the constellation of western villages." This prophecy has been more than fulfilled, for Grand Rapids is the acknowledged metropolis of Western Michigan. In the mail that awaited me was a copy of the South Bend _Herald_, containing a pleasant notice which chronicled in true newspaper diction the fact that

"Captain Glazier delivered his lecture 'Echoes from the Revolution'

at the Academy of Music last evening. Promptly at eight o'clock the lecturer, with Mr. J. F. Creed, appeared on the platform. Mr. Creed in introducing the lecturer stated the object of the lecture to be in aid of the Custer Monument a.s.sociation of Monroe, Michigan. He also read several letters introducing Captain Glazier to the public, from well-known citizens of Michigan, and acknowledging receipts of the proceeds of the lectures delivered in Detroit and Kalamazoo. The theme of the lecturer afforded a fine field for the display of his talents as a speaker. Possessing a fine imagination, good descriptive powers and the real qualities of an orator, he could not fail to please the really intelligent audience which greeted him last evening. Probably one hour and a half were consumed in its delivery; but the interest and attention did not flag nor tire, and when the speaker took leave of his audience he was greeted with several rounds of applause."

One Hundred and Fourth Day.

_Duncombe House_, DECATUR, MICHIGAN, _August Twenty-third_.

Came down from Grand Rapids in the morning intending to stop on the way at Lawton, but was carried by through the carelessness of a brakeman who neglected to announce the stations. The town is quite an important point on the road for its size owing to the extensive fruit orchards of the surrounding farms. This common industry which has sprung up in all parts of the State, but especially in the southern portion, and which attracts more attention than anything else, is a contradiction to the statements of those who examined the country while it was yet a wilderness.

In 1815 the surveyor-general of Ohio made a journey through the State and soberly reported that not more than one acre in a thousand in Southern Michigan would in any case admit of cultivation, yet notwithstanding that worthy's opinion, six hundred thousand peach trees flourished in Southwestern Michigan in 1872! Surely that is a fact to be proud of. On my arrival at Decatur I found the _Eagle_ of Grand Rapids, containing mention of my lecture at that place as follows:

"A very large audience gathered at Luce's Hall last night to hear Captain Willard Glazier. The speaker was earnest and impa.s.sioned, his lecture was delivered with a force and eloquence that pleased his hearers, and all who were in the hall went away glad that they had been there, and ready to add to the praises that have been bestowed on Captain Glazier as soldier, author and orator."

Such notices were gratifying--not for the leaven of flattery which they contained, but because they helped along the cause which was to raise a shaft to the deserving dead. For this reason I appreciated the comments of the press and owed much to its co-operation. It is a pleasure to me to acknowledge my indebtedness to this most powerful agent of modern times.

One Hundred and Fifth Day.

_Dyckman House_, PAW PAW, MICHIGAN, _August Twenty-fourth_.

Took the Michigan Central to Lawton, and changing cars there continued my journey to this place by the Paw Paw Road. Thinking that it might facilitate matters, I had my saddle padded here, and had a talk with the saddler besides, as the delay was becoming serious. At this crisis, if man and horse could have set up a partners.h.i.+p, like the fabled Centaurs, how we could have flown before the wind--or even outstripped the Michigan Central--as we galloped across country towards the setting sun!

That old myth was an inspiration. Was it invented by some fanciful traveller-horseman hindered on his way to Rome or Athens, by a saddler or a veterinary surgeon?

During my forced visit, the people of Paw Paw were very kind, making the time pa.s.s agreeably and giving me a pleasant recollection to take away.

These small social influences carried great weight with them, and helped to bear out the universally acknowledged fact that a.s.sociations are all powerful.

It is not strange that people, rather than their abode or works, strongly impress themselves, nor that, realizing this, they should be cordial in their hospitality. If, then, I praise the beauty or enterprise of these American towns, I bear witness at the same time, to the kindness and courtesy of their inhabitants. Whether East or West, these qualities were everywhere apparent, proving the universality of generous feeling.

One Hundred and Sixth Day.

_Private House_, NILES, MICHIGAN, _August Twenty-fifth_.

Leaving Paw Paw after breakfast I went down to Lawton by rail, where I changed cars, taking the Michigan Central to Niles, this for the purpose of making use of the extra time that now hung heavily upon my hands. A good proportion of the six thousand inhabitants came to Kellogg Hall in the evening to manifest their interest in the Custer Monument and the old Revolutionary heroes, Mr. J. T. Head giving the introduction.

Reaching Niles before noon I had ample time to look about, and to hear from old residents something of Berrien County and their home here on the St. Joseph.

[Ill.u.s.tration: NO ROOMS TO LET.]

For those who delight in searching out events from the doubtful past, there is suggestion enough here to keep them occupied for at least a week. Even this small town possesses records that date back to 1669, when Pere Allouez came along down the river on a voyage of discovery and who may have encamped on the very site of Niles, for all that the people who live there now know. But putting this aside, it is certain that in 1700 the Jesuits had a mission a short distance south of the present city, and that there were forts built here and there in the vicinity as a protection against the Indians. Later, when matters were settled and the English and French had long since withdrawn, the Reverend Isaac McCoy came out into the wilderness with his family and established Cary Mission, probably in sight of where the old Jesuit Mission stood.

This was in 1820. Six years afterwards a handful of cabins made their appearance, and out of this nucleus the town of Niles was evolved. This is a mere outline without the adornment of those pleasant little fictions that cling about the sober history of every inhabited place on earth, and which delight the ear of most travellers, for there may be those who follow me who echo the sentiment of the Michigan pioneer, "From legend and romance, good Lord, deliver us!"

One Hundred and Seventh Day.

_Private House_, LA PORTE, INDIANA, _August Twenty-sixth_.

Was compelled to avail myself of livery accommodations in order to meet my evening engagement at La Porte. Rode in a hack to South Bend, and finally reached my destination by way of the Michigan Central and Southern Indiana roads. My advance agent, Babc.o.c.k, met me at the station, and I accompanied him to the home of a Mr. Munday, who I discovered was the father of an old fellow-prisoner at "Libby."

I was delighted with the situation and appearance of the town. It rises on the border of a beautiful and fruitful prairie, its northern end bounded by a chain of seven lakes which make an ideal resort in summer, and is at a sufficient distance from the great body of water which dips down into that corner of the State, to enjoy a comparatively mild climate. Its population is about 8,000, of which a good share is employed in the foundries, machine shops and mills that make up its business activity. The younger element is provided for in good schools, and that luxury of modern communities--the public library--is zealously supported. On a line with it, as a free and instructive inst.i.tution, the Natural History a.s.sociation, founded in 1863, holds an honored place, and unlike most societies of a similar character has succeeded in making its researches of interest. In fact for its size the city has made great progress in literary and educational directions.

One Hundred and Eighth Day.

_Jewell House_, MICHIGAN CITY, INDIANA, _August Twenty-seventh_.

After my lecture of the previous evening at La Porte, I took the first train to this city--emphatically the City of Sand. Time and winds have raised great hills of sand on every side, and from their crests one can look off for miles over the lake, getting perhaps a deeper impression of its vastness than from a less monotonous lookout.

These sand dunes are supposed by some to be caused by a peculiar meteorological phenomena of currents and counter-currents acting vertically instead of horizontally. Whatever the cause, they have made Indiana's only port of entry a place of such striking peculiarity, that, once seen, I doubt if it would ever be forgotten.

In the forenoon I went out on the lake in a small yacht; but finding the little craft unequal to the heavy waves which were rus.h.i.+ng in from the north, I soon turned back, having gained by the venture a better idea of the dunes and of their extent as they stretch along the western sh.o.r.e.

The fact that they are "building upon the sand" gives the people of Michigan City very little concern, probably because they know there is _terra firma_ somewhere beneath their foundations.

Ames College occupies a site here, and the Car Shops are important and extensive.

One hundred and Ninth Day.

_Duncombe House_, DECATUR, MICHIGAN, _August Twenty-eighth_.

Taking an early train, I returned to this place in the morning, where I had decided to remain for a few days in order to allow more time for the treatment of my horse, and to give my brother and Babc.o.c.k an opportunity to insure a full house at Farwell Hall, Chicago, where I was announced to lecture on the eleventh of September.

I had begun to fear that the irritation on _Paul's_ back would develop into that most disgusting and painful disease of horses known as fistula; and although he never showed any impatience, I had not the heart to ride him while in this condition.

My quarters were quite comfortable at the only hotel in town, and I thanked my stars that I was not stranded in some little backwoods place with the choice of "the softest boards on the floor for a bed," and other accommodations to match--a state of affairs which a waylaid journeyman once had to face, who, with the soul of a Stoic, left on his window-pane the comforting couplet:

"Learn hence, young man, and teach it to your sons: The easiest way's to take it as it comes."

In fact I was doubly fortunate. No sooner had I reached Decatur than I lost the consciousness of being "a stranger within the gates," having been so cordially made to feel that I was among friends, and that the cause which I had taken up in Michigan met with their hearty sympathy.

[Ill.u.s.tration: RURAL SCENE IN MICHIGAN.]